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Other Plants Discussion of all other types of plants besides bananas. |
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![]() I began this thread on another forum as well and thought it may be helpful here also, so I am copying all of my information and tips. Hope you guys will find them useful...
Harvesting is really the easy part of gardening. : ) There are some special things to know for the crops that will still be growing at the end of the season... 1) If you still have some beets in the ground in late Autumn, you can try mulching them for later harvesting. While success isn't guaranteed, it might work, and pulling fresh beets from a snowy field can be kinda fun! 2) Cabbage will spoil if it freezes, so harvest it before frost threatens. The best way to select heads for storage is to pick the ones that feel heavy for their size. 3) Carrots can stay in the ground through winter if your ground doesn't freeze solid. They should be protected with a mulch. Once picked, carrots will dry out quickly if the tops are left on, so cut them off, leaving only an inch or two of green. 4) Make sure you have located and harvested all your potatoes before the ground freezes. They are ready to harvest when the tops die down. Leaving them in the ground for a couple of weeks longer toughens their skins, improving their storage quality. Any left will probably over-winter, and sprout in the Spring. There's nothing wrong with that, except potatoes should not be grown in the same area two years in a row, to lessen the possibility of disease. 5) Pumpkins can begin to rot if left in contact with the ground. As they are ripening, put something between the pumpkin and the ground - a short length of board, a shingle, or anything else that will stay dry where it touches the pumpkin. Pumpkins are ready to pick when the vines wither. Cut pumpkins away from the vine and leave a stem of 3 or 4". Treat the pumpkins tenderly, since a break in the skin can lead to rot. If you store them for awhile, don't wash them. Pumpkins can take light frost in the field, but need to be protected from a hard freeze. 6) Treat Winter squash the same way you do pumpkins above. Leaving a stem on is important, as squash and pumpkins will begin to rot without it! 7) If you have a turnip planting fest in July, You won't need to harvest too soon. These vegetables can be left in the ground until it begins to freeze, but don't leave them too long. For best quality, pull turnips before they get too large. About 3" in diameter is as big as you want them to grow. 8) If you grow brussel sprouts, remember that some light frost improves the flavor. If this is your 1st time growing them, you may have been surprised to see how they grow, held tight to the main stalk by a tiny stem. Pick from the bottom up, before the lower leaves turn yellow. 9) Although Collards are eaten mostly in the South, the plants are quite tolerant of frost. As with sprouts, the taste of collard greens is improved by a visit from Jack Frost. These are one of my favorites to grow. I love them. 10) Onions should be harvested when most of the tops begin to dry and fall over. Once the bulbs are mature, pull them. If left in the soil at that stage they will rot! Allow the freshly pulled onions to dry in dappled sun for a few days, and then bring them into a protected area to dry for an additional several weeks. If you cut off the stems, leave several inches on, or rot might set in. Allow them to dry with soil on them - once the onions are completely dry, the soil will brush off easily. If some of your onions have thick necks, use them in the kitchen first, since they will store poorly. : ) |
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#2 (permalink) |
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![]() As for corn, a great tip...
After the harvest, chop the stalks up and leave them on the ground as a mulch. They will break down over the winter, returning to the ground some of the nitrogen you gave them. |
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![]() Rhubarb is one of those plants that should be left to grow for a year or two before harvesting. To harvest, grasp the stalk near the base a twist off, pulling out. Don't cut with a knife or scissors or the nub will rot.
In the Deep south, grow rhubarb from seed and treat as an annual. Plant the seed in the Fall and harvest outer stalks in the Spring, the remainder in the Autumn. : ) |
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![]() More on potatoes...
You can begin to harvest potatoes when the tops begin to die down, but it's best to let the tops die back completely, and then wait a week or two. It's legitimate to sneak a few potatoes when the blossoming is in full swing, if you do it carefully. The small new potaotes are delicious, but don't get greedy, or you won't have a main crop! : O Dig potatoes when it's cool, but avoid digging them right after a rain. If the soil is fairly dry, the potatoes come out cleaner. It's best to store potatoes in a cool place - dig them in the morning when the potatoes are already somewhat cool. If they do get rained on, let them dry under cover, in a single layer rather than piled up. : ) |
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![]() Lettuce earwig tip...
I have never been able to completely deter earwigs from taking up residence in head lettuce. They don't eat much, but instead seem to use up the heading lettuce as a bunkhouse! If you have the same problem - here's what you can do... As soon as you cut a head, put it in a bucket of cold water. Most of the earwigs will float out. You may find others hidden in the outer leaves, and they can easily be shaken off. : ) |
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![]() Garlic...
Plant garlic in the Fall, and harvest them in June! For the last two weeks before you harvest, keep the garlic fairly dry to prevent the bulb from splitting. The tops will begin to droop and turn brown. At this point, bend them down to the ground. After the tops have dried out you can begin harvesting. The easiest method is to push a spading fork as deep as you can, straight down about 6" from the garlic. Lift gently, and the bulbs should rise enough to be retrieved. Don't pull the garlic up by the tops - that will pull the tops off and rot can enter the bulbs from the damaged area! Lay the harvested garlic on the ground to cure. If you are having cloudless days, keep the garlic in the shade. After a week or so, you can rub the dirt off and store. The tops can be cut off, leaving an inch or two of stem. Some people like to braid garlic tops for a more ornamental look, and in that case, of course, leave the tops on. : ) |
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![]() Additional information on Carrots...
Harvesting actually starts with thinning. Finger-long carrots thinned from the garden, taste wonderful. Try chopping them up, tops and all, to add to tossed salads for a fresh surprise. Keep thinning until the remaining carrots are about 2 inches apart; then wait until they reach your favorite eating size. Before harvesting the entire crop, pull up 1 or 2 roots to see how large they are. In very cold climates, harvest all your carrots before hard frosts occur; if they are left in the ground, they'll become hard and woody. Where winters are not severely cold, you can leave carrots in the ground for storage; after the first hard frost, cover carrots, tops and all, with 6 to 8 inches of shredded leaves. Where summers are hot, harvest Spring-planted carrots before the hottest weather arrives. When to harvest: For baby carrots, 30-40 days after sowing seeds; for mature carrots, 50-80 days after sowing the seeds. : ) |
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![]() Tomatoes....
Harvest tomatoes when they reach the size and color you prefer. Be sure to harvest the last of the crop before the first frost in Autumn. Tomatoes are generally ready 50-90 days after setting out plants - although I have some types that take 120 days as well (these ones get started way early, indoors). : ) |
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![]() Swiss Chard...
To harvest, cut off outer stalks near the base, allowing central stalks and leaves to grow. If you want to use the whole plant, slice it off a couple inches from the ground; new leaves will eventually sprout! : ) |
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![]() Summer Squash & Winter Squash...
All squash should have their stems cut 2" from fruits with a sharp knife. Summer Squash: Harvest the ordinary and golden zucchini fruits when they are 4-6 inches long (or even smaller). Harvest the round zucchini when it is 3-4" wide, the zucchini - scallop squash hybrid when it's 2-3" across. It's usually best to harvest straightneck squash when they are less than 5 or 6" long, crookneck and scallop squashes when they a 2-3" wide. If you allow summer squashes to grow larger than this, test them for tenderness with your thumbnail (it should pierce the skin easiy). If your summer squash become large and tough, hollow them out and cook them stuffed, or shred them for zucchini cake or bread. Winter Squash: Harvest winter squash in late Autumn after the vines have dried but before the first heavy frost. The skins of the fruit should be hard and unscratchable when tested with your thumbnail. Stems are thick; cut them with a sharp knife, leaving a 2 inch stub on the fruit. : ) |
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![]() Spinach...
Cut or pinch off leaves, or pull up entire plant. New Zealand and Malabar spinach: cut leaves and stem tips. When to Harvest: Spinach: 40-50 days after sowing seeds. New Zealand spinach: 60-80 days after sowing seeds. Malabar spinach: 60-70 days after sowing seeds. When spinach has put out 6-8 leaves (varieties come with either flat or crinkled leaves), it's ready for harvest. Either cut off the entire plant at it's base, or cut or pinch (don't pull) or just enough outer leaves for one meal. Wash thoroughly, because the leaves are usually sandy or gritty. When the leaves of New Zealand spinach reach 3-4" long, begin harvesting them by plucking off the last 3" of stem tips. To promote growth and prolong the harvest until frost, pick leaves at least once a week while the leaves are tender and fresh. Overmature leaves may be tough and bitter. After the vines of Malabar spinach reach a height of 2 feet, pinch out a few inches of stem tips (harvesting any young, tender leaves) to encourage the plant to branch and form more stems (vines reach a maximum height of of about 4 feet). : ) |
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![]() Peppers...
To harvest all kinds of peppers, cut them carefully from the plants with pruning shears. : ) |
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![]() Peas...
Begin harvesting peas for shelling when the pods have swelled to almost a round shape and before the pods lose their bright green color. Harvest edible pods when the pods are 2-3 inches long, before the seeds begin to swell. For the freshest taste, harvest peas every two days. This also keeps the plants producing. : ) |
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![]() Melons...
When to harvest: 70-120 days after sowing seeds. Cantaloupe: when fruit slips easily off the stem. Other melons: when they have a strong sweet aroma and slight softening at the blossom end or when the skin turns from shiny to dull. How to harvest: Lift cantaloupes until they separate. Cut other melons from the vine with a knife or shears. How to store: Keep cool and damp for 2-4 weeks. To preserve, freeze. : ) |
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![]() More on lettuce...
When to harvest: 40-90 days after sowing seeds. Harvest butterhead lettuce when loose head is formed: crisphead lettuce when heads are firm; Leaf and romaine lettuce any time after leaves are large enough to use; celtuce when stem is formed, before it flowers. How to harvest: Pull off outer leaves of leaf lettuce. Cut off heads of heading types just below bases of heads. How to store: Refrigerate unwashed; use as soon as possible. Do not preserve. : ) |
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![]() Turnips...
Grow the ones you want for leaves closer together than the ones you want for roots. As the greens grow, pick the outer leaves. Harvest the roots when they're 2-3 inches wide - they become tougher and more pungent as they grow fatter. When to Harvest: 30-60 days after planting. How to Harvest: Roots: dig with garden fork. Greens: cut tender outer leaves. How to store: Roots: keep cool and damp for 8-12 weeks . Greens: Refrigerate unwashed; use as soon as possible. Do not preserve. Some people prefer the roots from the Autumn harvest because they are the most flavorful and tender then. Turnips protected from frost by a straw mulch can stay in the ground in Autumn until you're ready o dig them up and use them, but harvest them before the ground freezes solid. : ) |
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![]() Watermelon...
A watermelon is probably ripe if it makes a dull 'thunk' when thumped, if its underside has turned from white to pale yellow, and if the tendril opposite the stem of the melon has withered. When to Harvest: 70-95 days after planting out. How to Harvest: Cut fruit from vine with pruning shears. How to Store: Refrigerate unwashed; use as soon as possible. To preserve, can. : ) |
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![]() Radishes...
When to Harvest: 20-70 days after sowing. How to Harvest: Pull up small radishes. Pull or dig up large radishes. How to Store: Refrigerate unwashed; use as soon as possible. Do not preseve. : ) |
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![]() Kale...
Start harvesting crops of sweet leaves as soon as they are large enough to use. When To Harvest: 55-75 days after sowing seeds. Harvest greens as you thin seedlings. Pick outer leaves as plants grow. How to Harvest: Cut off outer leaves at base, or pull up entire plant. How To Store: Refrigerate unwashed in plastic bag; use as soon as possible. Mmmmm...kale is one of my favorites to grow. So nutricious and healthy too. |
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![]() Eggplant...
On large varieties, thin the fruits to one per each main branch - 3-6 per plant. With small fruited kinds, thinning isn't necessary. Harvest when the fruits are glossy, fully colored, firm, and about two-thirds their maximum size; as the fruits mature , they lose their sheen, grow soft and bitter, and develop larger and courser seeds. Use clippers or a knife to pick eggplants individually as they ripen. When to Harvest: 60-90 days after setting out plants How to Harvest: Clip or cut from stems. How to Store: Refrigerate unwashed; use as soon as possible. To preserve, freeze or dry. : ) |
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