Just aquired my first banana tree--not doing so good!

[BongosMom]

Hi! I just got my first dwarf banana tree. Since I have had 'Bongo' the leaves are yellowing and it seems to be struggling. I live in SE Michigan and our weather has been what I thought a condusive growing environment.
Daytime temp: 80-95 f. Night: 65-75 f.
Bongo sits in sunshine on a lakeside patio from morning until late afternoon. So far in two weeks, I have watered twice both times using Miracle Gro in the water(minimal amounts).
Bongo's leaves are getting worse, splitting with brown edges and yellowing.
Can Bongo be saved???
911 help please!
Thanks for helping.... Bongosmom 🌴

[d-lilly]

im new here also,,and the only thing that comes to my mind is,,dont fertilize untill any plant is established, and growing..but im not a banana expert..im learning everything I do is usually wrong

[caliboy1994]

Welcome! I don't think you're watering enough. A rule of thumb is to give it another watering if the soil is dry an inch deep.

[Olafhenny]

One thing, which causes the symptoms you describe is sudden change in the environment.

Specifically:
- Transplanting, which involves disturbing the roots
- Sudden change in light conditions. If the plant was shipped for a few days in a container,
sudden exposure to light will cause it.
- Bananas, used to relative shade or grown indoors will also tend to wilt away, if moved outdoors.
I have moved several outside in the spring. Those, which got the most sun suffered the greatest
setback. one in almost total shade did not even blink.

Solution: (I take it, since it is on a patio, it is potted.) Move it into the shade, at least until the first
new leaf emerges. That should happen in one month or less.

The corm IS the plant. If it is at least the size of a prune and sound, your plant will survive. I'll
guarantee it.

Good luck,
Olaf

[Bob3]

Pictures, please!!!
In the meantime, into the shade with it as Olaf suggests.

Without eyeballing the plant to see the extent of the brown/yellow, it's near impossible to tell what the problem (if any) may be.
For instance, the symptoms you describe can also be caused by too much water.
Splitting of the leaves is normal, happens when the wind beats them around.

Banana leaves do turn yellow/brown (and split) on their own after a while, so there's a possibility your plant isn't doing anything out of the ordinary, especially after having been in a box for several days.

[Olafhenny]

As far as watering goes, it is practically impossible to over-water a banana, as long as there is positive
drainage out of the bottom of the pot. In that case the only damage you can do with too much water,
is flushing the nutrients out of the soil.

The rule of thumb like with most potted plants is: Add water until it starts draining out of the bottom
and then STOP! There is one caveat though: If the soil in the pot is too dry, two things can happen:
- The soil becomes hygrophobic and thus unable to "sponge up" the water.
- The soil shrinks back from the wall of the pot and the water drops right through without being
available to the soil and plant.

In both cases, which will probably occur in tandem, you will have to place the pot for a few hours into
a container filled with water

Best,
Olaf

[G.W.]

NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE TO OVERWATER

I'd like to speak to this.

I placed a Dwarf Cavendish around 2ft tall into a 4gal bucket this spring as an experiment. THERE IS ZERO DRAINAGE save over the lip.
NO HOLES
Here in Florida we receive copious amounts of rain all summer long. 2-5 instances of rain per week. Additionally this area is under irrigation, as container plants tend to dry more quickly. EDIT 300 other cantainers
This plant is doing so well (read not dying) that I'll be giving it away soon to avoid repotting. (my cavendish think they're rabbits)

SO
While I would not recommend a undrained container, Dwarf Cavendish seems capable of surviving at least six months in a frequently overflowing container. Conditions that would kill many plants dead dead dead.


As to the issue of hygrophobic media.

If you find the soil has shrunk back from the sides of the pot and water seems to run right by it, then submersion is a sure cure.
Put about 4 inches of water in a 5 gal bucket and set the plant in it.
You can gauge absorption by lifting the lip NOT THE PLANT STEM.
Remove BY THE LIP when it seems much heavier and the water level has visibly changed.

Now make a 2 inch "saucer" from a bucket bottom so it doesn't happen again. Refill when the saucer empties. Most plants prefer wet/dry cycle.

FINALLY
Your night temps are marginal.
I was in Mi last summer and was downright COLD at night.
A cold frame enclosure would boost heat and humidity AND extend your outside season.

Yes a greenhouse is a bit extreme. Detroit is a lot closer to da UP dan da equator EH?
Perhaps some sugarbeets instead?
Something medicinal?

[Olafhenny]

Originally Posted by G.W.

NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE TO OVERWATER

I'd like to speak to this.

I placed a Dwarf Cavendish around 2ft tall into a 4gal bucket this spring as an experiment. THERE IS ZERO DRAINAGE save over the lip.
NO HOLES
Here in Florida we receive copious amounts of rain all summer long. 2-5 instances of rain per week. Additionally this area is under irrigation, as container plants tend to dry more quickly. EDIT 300 other cantainers
This plant is doing so well (read not dying) that I'll be giving it away soon to avoid repotting. (my cavendish think they're rabbits)

SO
While I would not recommend a undrained container, Dwarf Cavendish seems capable of surviving at least six months in a frequently overflowing container. Conditions that would kill many plants dead dead dead.

This jibes very much with my own experience. I have observed banana plants, doing obviously well
at the edges of rice fields, where the soil levels were only inches above the water level of the fields.

My own experience with bananas is limited to some of those, which I can raise here in HZ 6 and and
to my annual 2 months visits to some tropical countries. Because language and communications there
are problematic, I usually have no idea which species of bananas I am looking at.

I am deferring to a strong cadre of subscribers in this forum, who appear to be IMOEO unduly concerned
about root rot and because my experience includes only a very small selection of bananas, I felt
obliged to include the caveat of drainage "through the bottom of the pot". If you have that root
rot becomes impossible.

Originally Posted by G.W.

As to the issue of hygrophobic media.

If you find the soil has shrunk back from the sides of the pot and water seems to run right by it, then submersion is a sure cure.
Put about 4 inches of water in a 5 gal bucket and set the plant in it.
You can gauge absorption by lifting the lip NOT THE PLANT STEM.
Remove BY THE LIP when it seems much heavier and the water level has visibly changed.

Now make a 2 inch "saucer" from a bucket bottom so it doesn't happen again. Refill when the saucer empties. Most plants prefer wet/dry cycle.

Agreed!

Originally Posted by G.W.

FINALLY
Your night temps are marginal.
I was in Mi last summer and was downright COLD at night.
A cold frame enclosure would boost heat and humidity AND extend your outside season.

Yes a greenhouse is a bit extreme. Detroit is a lot closer to da UP dan da equator EH?
Perhaps some sugarbeets instead?
Something medicinal?

Actually some bananas do quite well in northern regions. I do not anything to protect my basjoo until
some of the leaves freeze. That usually happens after temps of -3 to -5^C (23 to 27^F) have been
briefly reached in the mornings. Then I slice of the leaves and the PS to a manageable size and
mulch the whole thing thoroughly.

I have actually taken some small ones inside and grown them all winter by a bright window, but in spring,
after I planted them out again their "frozen" siblings, previously of similar size quickly caught up with
them again, because their roots had not been disturbed (other than having their heads chopped of in fall )

[G.W.]

Originally Posted by Olafhenny

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Actually some bananas do quite well in northern regions. I do not anything to protect my basjoo until
some of the leaves freeze. That usually happens after temps of -3 to -5^C (23 to 27^F) have been
briefly reached in the mornings. Then I slice of the leaves and the PS to a manageable size and
mulch the whole thing thoroughly.

I have actually taken some small ones inside and grown them all winter by a bright window, but in spring,
after I planted them out again their "frozen" siblings, previously of similar size quickly caught up with
them again, because their roots had not been disturbed (other than having their heads chopped of in fall )

I'm sure you are correct.
I made an assumption based on the OP's meager description of "dwarf" that we were discussing Dwarf Cavendish.
This is the cheapest AgriStarts tissue culture, and probably the most available dwarf. Namwah is likely second. Someone feel free to correct me.

OP would you please elaborate on the variety?
Origin? Pic?

[sunfish]

What Causes Root Rot?

[Olafhenny]

Thank you, Tony, this article makes a lot sense and clears up a lot of misconceptions
held in this forum including my own.

Olaf

[BongosMom]

Hi everyone! Thanks for your lovely, intelligent responses!
Firstly, I got Bongo at a greenhouse and he is in a pot about 3 1/2 feet tall.
Not in a box.
After 3 days of warm rain and wind, a few leaves are tattered and I lost two, but a new leaf is just starting to unwind.
(so very pretty.)
QUESTION:
Best soil to re-pot in?!
I am thinking a mixture of sand & perlite.
Banana lovers is this good????
Let me know your best results! I am trying to get a pic for you guys!
Love, Bongosmom!

[Abnshrek]

Hello, Welcome, and Happy Growing. I'd use course sand :^)

[G.W.]

Originally Posted by BongosMom

Best soil to re-pot in?!

there is probably a hydro store around so find some coco coir
pith or fine is the size

there you go... no worries about over watering either