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#81 (permalink) |
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![]() No I didn't trim them. Do you think it will affect how fast it starts growing?
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#82 (permalink) |
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#83 (permalink) |
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![]() I really don't know. I always cut.
It had to be a bitch to get those roots to fit in that pot, nearly impossible to spread them out.
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#84 (permalink) |
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![]() Lol it was.
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#85 (permalink) | |
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Here's an a'ea'e that I wanted to move the growing point so I let it dry first. Just to be clear I removed it from the cortex and central cylinder so I could use those parts for macropropagation. Basically I only dry if what I'm doing is going to take an excessive amount of time.
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#86 (permalink) |
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![]() This is a different a'ea'e with the same procedure done except I didn't want to move the growing point so it wasn't dried.
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#87 (permalink) |
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#88 (permalink) |
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![]() So moving the grow point helps for macropropagation but leaving the grow point would be to replant current plant?
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#89 (permalink) | |
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For people that don't realize that every a'ea'e rots this procedure would seem pointless. Move and remove are two different procedures and are done to accomplish two distinctly different objectives. Most people intentionally kill the main growing point aka main pseudostem when they macropropagate because they don't know any better. The macropropagation process is exactly the same whether it's killed or removed, with the only difference being removing it allows it to be planted somewhere else and later macropropagated again.
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#90 (permalink) | ||
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The rhizome of every a'ea'e will rot and most growers will consider a growth rate faster than a rot rate a success. When I was learning I read every post I could find about killing a'ea'e and this post always stayed in my mind. He's one of the most accomplished grower on the forum and unfortunately he failed. The a'ea'e is a sensitive plant and most members fail before figuring out an acceptable substrate. Most a'ea'e growers think their choice of substrate works well until it doesn't and that's why getting advice on this forum rarely works out well. By routinely examining the rhizomes I was able to compare rot rates in different substrates to determine which worked best for me. I'm posting his quotes because they were helpful to me and maybe they'll help other members. It might appear to happen overnight but the rhizome rots over the lifespan of the plant and the croaking happens when it finally spreads to the growing point. Quote:
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#91 (permalink) | |
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This thread came in very handy at just the right time. I had a few newer plants struggling and ended up getting some horticultural sand after cleaning them up. So far they have all recovered nicely. The sand was a bit pricey but helped give me an idea of approximately how large the grains I should look for in a possible cheaper alternative in the future. I just wanted to thank you for the great info. |
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#92 (permalink) | ||
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Many people won't use sand because they think it doesn't hold much moisture. A good way of understanding how much moisture it holds would be to weigh a pot of dry sand and then weigh it wet. Quote:
That's the main reason why I wouldn't recommend any of the concrete sands, they have a large grain size range. Screening concrete sand would work if it contains enough of the desired size.
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#93 (permalink) | |
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#95 (permalink) | |
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This is a new synthetic hybrid I planted today, Sept 1, 22.
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#96 (permalink) | |
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Wow that's a lot of different varieties lot's of work. That's a nice looking banana plant, what all is it mixed with? |
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#97 (permalink) | |
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Is your variegated Florida alive?
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#98 (permalink) | |
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Yes it's alive I thought I was going to lose it but had to cut it down some, starting to grow back now. |
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#99 (permalink) | |
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If I knew you were going to lose the entire above ground stem I would have sent you something smaller. Here's a Florida I potted on Aug 28 and it certainly won't take a month to produce leaves. It's for sale if anyone is interested.
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#100 (permalink) | |
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![]() How much?
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