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Main Banana Discussion This is where we discuss our banana collections; tips on growing bananas, tips on harvesting bananas, sharing our banana photos and stories. |
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#1 (permalink) |
Location: Central Vancouver Island, BC Canada
Zone: AgCan 7b, USDA 6b
Name: Mike
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![]() So I have used Hugelkultur style beds for young trees with good results, but I don't really know if it will be beneficial for bananas or just a bunch of extra work.
Does anyone else have any experience with this planting technique for bananas? Whatever the case may be I thought I would share the process I go through of building one if anyone is interested. This is where my basjoo will be going. First cut the turf away sift the rocks out The finished hole dug below grade Some of the stuff that will go into the hugel bed The first layer of logs, partially rotted maple and some alder Layer of partially composted alpaca dung tossed on Then native soil and watered in so the nooks and crannies fill in A layer of charcoal and wood ash Another layer of logs - this time very rotten fir and then some native soil on top and watered in A shot from above showing what came out of the hole - all the dirt in the pile with the pickax sitting on it and all the rocks in the little trailer Then the riser/grass barrier goes on. The water table in this part of the yard is at ground level in the winter so the entire plant needs to be sitting above it. Add some grass clippings and other green organics Then a layer of 4 mix (native soil mixed with municipal compost, aged fir, charcoal and wood ash) Watered in to fill the nooks and crannies Then a layer of smaller sticks, dry but not rotted and on top of that a layer of dried leaves collected last fall Another layer of 4 mix I decided to add another riser to the box so I can add an adequate amount of compost and mulch and still keep the plant sitting on top of the surrounding grade. That's it for today but to be continued...... ![]()
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#2 (permalink) |
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Zone: Zone 9a
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![]() I recommend skiping that last layer of sticks. I think it might make it very difficult to separate/remove pups, old corm, etc. in the future.
Removing those rocks and stone is an excellent idea...of course being from Florida I have only read about rocks in books and blogs...haha. I think I would retain a zone from surface to about 1' 1/2' depth free of sticks, wood, etc. so the roots can move around and grow without being impeded. There is a greater risk from excess moisture causing rot in colder zones especally during the winter and fall months when the plants are not growing so be mindful of that issue. My plants are in slightly elevated beds and they do great so your setup should work taking into account moisture issues and root rot. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
Location: Central Vancouver Island, BC Canada
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Who keeps calling me nuts?? Last edited by sirdoofus : 08-03-2020 at 09:50 AM. Reason: add explanatory paragraph |
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#4 (permalink) |
Location: Central Vancouver Island, BC Canada
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![]() And done - had to put the netting around it to prevent my ducks from rooting around in the bed and my geese from stripping the leaves off.
Go baby go ![]()
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#5 (permalink) | |
container grower Location: Southwest Ohio U.S.A.🇺🇸
Zone: HZ 6/5 Microclimate - Elevation 750 feet- 228.60 meters
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Well done. Once the grow system aligns itself .....your good to go for many seasons. ![]() |
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#6 (permalink) |
Location: Central Vancouver Island, BC Canada
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![]() Thank you, I certainly hope so. Looking forward to seeing what happens with it and if it will in fact decrease irrigation requirements.
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