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Main Banana Discussion This is where we discuss our banana collections; tips on growing bananas, tips on harvesting bananas, sharing our banana photos and stories. |
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#1 (permalink) |
Location: Newmarket, Ontario, Canada, Earth
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![]() Anyone recommend or against using self-watering planters
Plan was to pot up 2 banana plants that are in 14” pots to 18” pots When adding more soil, the plan is to use PRO-MIX Organic Vegetable & Herb Mix (what I have on hand) and then add 30% perlite to it. However, on the bottom of pot in the SIP area the plan was to add a 15% vermiculite to the mix for wicking and add about 1.5”-2” of soil at the bottom only. I haven't used a SIP yet and have 2 of them on hand... Thoughts?
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![]() Nope I would not, possibly it would be OK when its in the height of the growing season but any dip or cold spell would be an easy root rot onset.
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![]() NO, use a pot that drains well.
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Growing Musa Orinoco since 1993 - Added 2018-Basjoo, Zebrina' Rojo, Ensete Red Abyssinian - Added 2019-Goldfinger - Added 2020-Kokopo (Short Cycle), Double (Mahoi), Highgate, Super Dwarf Cavendish - Added 2021-Pisang Ceylon(Mysore), Musa Margarita, Ensete Ventricosum - Added 2023 - Siam Ruby |
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#4 (permalink) |
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![]() I would absolutely go ahead and try it! Just dont use your favorite or valuable Banana plants. buy a couple cheap TC Dwarf Cavendish or Dwarf Namwah and see how they do. Experimentation is an incredible learning tool. Just don't put all your eggs in one basket and consider any plants used for experments as expendable.
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![]() Root rot is caused by too much water that displaces air iin the soil, which creates an environment where aerobic amd desirable microorganisms can't thrive, and the harmful ones that cause root rot can thrive. As long as the soil is constantly moist, and healthy with good aerobic microorganisms and air in the soil you shouldn't get root rot. Banana roots, and most other plants, should NEVER dry out, and constant moisture even in winter is optimal, as long as there is sufficient air in the soil and it isn't water logged which turns it anaerobic. With a properly designed Wicking tub, with an air gap above the water and a breathable membrane the underside of the majority of the roots will air prune and secondary roots with more efficient nutrient uptake will be triggered to grow. As long as the mass and majority of the Banana plant roots are not flooded, a few that creep down into the lowest wicking point of the soil will just die, but the majority of the roots will be above in the ideally moist zone and be fine. From my research, a self watering wicking and air root pruning grow bag/tub in theory can definitely work well with Bananas if done right. I have a Dwarf Cavendish in one right now I'm experimenting with. We'll see how it does.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Not a fan of self watering containers for large plants but I know they are popular. A large plant will require more daily water than the resevoir will hold. It will work for small plants and veggies and herbs because the water draw is minimal. I do have and use Earth Box type self waterers for other grows and I find the plants will be underwatered much of the time. And again many folks love the self watering pots because it suites their needs. Instead I have found large saucers under the containers work the best for my situation. My larger containers that are in the 10-24 gal range sit in saucers. When the plant is actively growing in the summer they will use every drop of water in the saucer. Go ahead and give your self waterers a go for the season and see if you like them. Last edited by cincinnana : 04-29-2023 at 03:47 PM. |
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![]() I don't buy into the idea that Bananas, or most plants at that, need to "dry out". Most plants like constant moisture, about like a wrung out sponge. I think the dry out idea comes from when people overwater the soil so that there is no air and the roots are in standing water which drowns them. Too much water, i. e. waterlogged is definitely bad, but contanly sufficiently moist is ideal, IME,and no need to dry out if the roots aren't waterlogged or in standing water.
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#11 (permalink) | |
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#12 (permalink) |
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![]() The soil drying out is more important than you think. As Pr mentioned about soil aeration being important there is also mineral uptake to consider. The mineral calcium is not taken up when the soil is wet, and actually requires dry soil. Since calcium is a major mineral for chlorophyll production, you will notice leaves will become more yellow during periods of heavy rain that last for days. Too much water, even with soil that is well drained is bad. Bananas do well though with lots of water; this I won't deny.
Last edited by AaronTT : 05-02-2023 at 08:25 AM. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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I used to water almoat every day here in Florida. Since they were in direct sunlight, I figured it wouldn't hurt. However too much of a good thing caused some issues, such as yellowing of the leaves. Also, there is at least one variety I know of that is naturally prone to rotting, and thus its water intake must be really managed or else it will die. As far as water plants, well its amazing what some plants are capable of. Some can grow in pure sand, or take nutrients from the air, or from rocks. However, bananas differ and cannot handle the conditions water plants can, as they lack the mechanisms that allow water plants to do what the bananas cannot. As I said before though, most banana varieties love to be watered often. |
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![]() Water saturation is key.
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![]() Your picture looks nice, but I think the banana roots willl grow into the PVC pipe and clog it up. I agree with Cinci - a water saucer on the bottom is a good solution.
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#17 (permalink) |
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![]() I tried Earth Box eons ago and was not happy. That's my only experience with self watering containers.
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