Feeding bananas

PAbananas · 06-01-2011, 09:12 PM

Question on feeding Nanas. Got some Banana fuel but came without instructions on how much and how often. So if any have or are using this feed please let me no. Thanks

cherokee_greg · 06-01-2011, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PAbananas

Question on feeding Nanas. Got some Banana fuel but came without instructions on how much and how often. So if any have or are using this feed please let me no. Thanks

this link should help
Water Soluble Banana Fuel Dosages

Olafhenny · 06-02-2011, 09:29 PM

I have for many years now regarded the specialty fertilizer industry a giant rip-off.

Apart from replacing minerals, which are lacking in your specific area, plants need three different fertilizers: Nitrogen,
Phosphates and Potassium, which are always listed in that order.

You always need all three, but here is what they are basically for:

Nitrogen is required for development of plant mass; greenery and stems.

Phosphates promote blooming and fruiting and thereby seed production

Potassium will aid in the development of roots.

I buy my fertilizers in bulk from agricultural supply centres and mix them in accordance with the season and my
requirements.

In regions with distinct seasonal changes plants grow toward warmth. That means in spring, when the air is warmer
than the soil, the plants grow upward and require fertilizers rich on nitrogen and potassium for growth, blooming
and fruiting

In fall, when the ground is still warm and the air cools off, many plants retract. Deciduous trees pull whatever
nutrition is still stored in the leaves, which then turn into their innate colour without the chlorophyll, which has
dominated throughout spring and summer. The leaves thus stripped of their nutritional value then drop off.
Everything goes into the development of roots. That is, when potassium will promote that process, i.e. the last of
the three designating numbers of your fertilizer has to be the biggest one. But never forget to also add some
nitrogen and some potassium.

If you need more guidelines on how to fertilize, just look at the formulations of the “specialty fertilizers" in your
garden store and copy the proportion of the three numbers.

You will find that “rose fertilizers” and “tomato fertilizers” have pretty much the same formulation, because you want
them to grow and bloom/fruit aplenty, they are high on nitrogen and phosphates. The rip-off is, that the
industry wants you to buy a small package of each as well as all the other “specialties”, which are basically all the
same. So you have to use your head. You do not want a lot of “bloom and fruit” in your lawn, so be easy on your
phosphates, but do not cut them out completely. The most dangerous fertilizer is nitrogen, as it has the tendency
to ‘burn’ the plants, where it has been applied too liberally.

I fertilize roughly in 6 to 8 week intervals.

A couple of years ago in an effort to convince our strata corporation to switch to bulk fertilizing I priced it out
vs. the same effective fertilizing value in Walmart, which again was significantly cheaper than our local
garden store and found that Walmart cost more than six times the bulk prices.

‘Going bulk’ may set you back initially some $120.- or so, because you have to immediately buy a 20 to 25 kilo (44 to
55 lb) bag each of the three, but after that you just replace one bag at the time as required.

palmtree · 06-02-2011, 11:45 PM

I usually use miracle gro on my bananas. I know some people are against it, but it always helps my plants grow fast and I never see any ill effects either. However, I do like to help out in keeping the enviorment as clean as possible so I am using an organic fertilizer this year (6-4-4). I just started using it this week so I cant say if its sucessful or not, but it usually takes about a week for fertilizers to "kick in".
Good luck!

Olafhenny · 06-03-2011, 01:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palmtree

I usually use miracle gro on my bananas. I know some people are against it, but it always helps my plants grow fast and I never see any ill effects either. However, I do like to help out in keeping the enviorment as clean as possible so I am using an organic fertilizer this year (6-4-4). I just started using it this week so I cant say if its sucessful or not, but it usually takes about a week for fertilizers to "kick in".
Good luck!

Of course it will be successful. You have 6% nitrogen, 4% phosphates and 4% potassium in it. That is relatively
weak, so you have to use a bit more of a fertilizer, which is probably on the high side on the cost range. But help
it will. It is slightly skewed toward growth of greenery and (for this time of the year) away from 'bloom & fruit'

Good luck,
Olaf

Richard · 06-03-2011, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Olafhenny

[size="3"]... If you need more guidelines on how to fertilize, just look at the formulations of the “specialty fertilizers" in your
garden store and copy the proportion of the three numbers. ...

I disagree, because

Several brand name formulas are based on what they can buy cheaply, and not necessarily on the needs and/or capacities of plants. This is especially true of private brands such as Vigoro in big box stores.
Some plants, such as blueberries are very sensitive to the composition of Nitrogen they receive. You can get the ratios and pH correct but still harm the plant.

Olafhenny · 06-03-2011, 03:13 AM

Richard, you wrote:

"I disagree, because
1. Several brand name formulas are based on what they can buy cheaply, and not necessarily on the needs and/or
capacities of plants. This is especially true of private brands such as Vigoro in big box stores.”

I have not made this experience. When I look at the packages of fertilizer, the contents are usually consistent with
the requirements of the plants they are formulated for. I am not familiar with ‘Vigoro’.

"2. Some plants, such as blueberries are very sensitive to the composition of Nitrogen they receive. You can get the
ratios and pH correct but still harm the plant.”

You are dealing with two separate kettles of fish. We were talking about fertilizers. Mineralization of the soil such
as acidity (Ph) and trace elements is a separate issue. I submit, that if you use my proposed method of acquiring bulk
fertilizers and mix and match them as required for your specific purpose, you save more than enough money to have
samples of your soil analyzed by our local Dept. of Agriculture and receive recommendation for adjusting the mineral
content to suit the crop you want to raise.

As to nitrogen: Nitrogen = nitrogen = nitrogen. It is a chemical (N) straight out of the periodic tables and usually
represented in your fertilizer by those little white nodules, which are not straight N but already reduced to 45%
or less.
I have stated below in my first post, that nitrogen must be used with caution, because it has the tendency
to burn your plants, your lawn etc.

I have no experience with blueberries, but for some more sensitive plants it is advisable to cushion the effect of
nitrogen, by applying it in the much milder form encapsulated in composted cow or horse manure or composted
grass clippings. I do not have such sensitive plants in my yard, but when I plant new plants I usually add bone
meal or blood meal. Fish fertilizer will also do. That keeps them going until the next general fertilizing of the area
they are in.

Richard · 06-03-2011, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Olafhenny

... As to nitrogen: Nitrogen = nitrogen = nitrogen.

Actually, no. There are 4 compositions of Nitrogen used in fertilizers. One or more will be present in any particular source. They are: Ammonical, Nitrate, Organo-Protein, and Urea. You'll damage epiphytes such as orchids and plants grown hydroponically with the Urea form of nitrogen. Blueberries will suffer if the nitrogen source is predominately Nitrate.

I endorse the idea of smart-shopping for fertilizer. Most people pay way too much. The keys are to know the requirements of your plants and then judge the cost of the fertilizer by the net cost per pound of the nutrients. For more information, see:

The nutritional care of plants in home gardens

Computing the unit cost of fertilizers

Olafhenny · 06-03-2011, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard

Actually, no. There are 4 compositions of Nitrogen used in fertilizers. One or more will be present in any particular source. They are: Ammonical, Nitrate, Organo-Protein, and Urea. You'll damage epiphytes such as orchids and plants grown hydroponically with the Urea form of nitrogen. Blueberries will suffer if the nitrogen source is predominately Nitrate.

I endorse the idea of smart-shopping for fertilizer. Most people pay way too much. The keys are to know the requirements of your plants and then judge the cost of the fertilizer by the net cost per pound of the nutrients. For more information, see:

The nutritional care of plants in home gardens

Computing the unit cost of fertilizers

Hi Richard,

you have exposed and started to fill a gap in my knowledge about fertilizers.

Thank you for it

Olaf

Scot Nelson · 06-03-2011, 04:28 PM

In Hawaii the banana farmers use 13-3-38 (with minor elements inlcuded) at a rate of 1/3 to 1/2 pound per month per banana mat.

Richard · 06-04-2011, 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scot Nelson

In Hawaii the banana farmers use 13-3-38 (with minor elements inlcuded) at a rate of 1/3 to 1/2 pound per month per banana mat.

Yes, there is a lot of surplus Nitrogen in Hawaii and other near-tropical environments such as the Caribbean. Leaf and soil samples over the decades have resulted in the specialized 13-3-38 formula for the area. It is also a good choice for pineapples grown there.

But back here on the mainland U.S. the situation is subtropical with the exception of the southern half of Florida, and hence we need more nitrogen input from the fertilizer in relation to potash. In absence of other sources, the ratio of N to P is 1 to 1.5.

palmtree · 06-04-2011, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Olafhenny

Of course it will be successful. You have 6% nitrogen, 4% phosphates and 4% potassium in it. That is relatively
weak, so you have to use a bit more of a fertilizer, which is probably on the high side on the cost range. But help
it will. It is slightly skewed toward growth of greenery and (for this time of the year) away from 'bloom & fruit'

Good luck,
Olaf

Thanks! My bananas are nowhere near fruiting size yet so I guess I dont have a choice but to focus on vegetative growth. I am looking at the bananas I gave fertilizer to (one week after they were given the first application of the fertilizer) and I do actually think they are growing much faster now! The weather isnt ideal for banana growth today, but they are pushing up a new leaf anyway!

Olafhenny · 06-04-2011, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palmtree

Thanks! My bananas are nowhere near fruiting size yet so I guess I dont have a choice but to focus on vegetative growth. I am looking at the bananas I gave fertilizer to (one week after they were given the first application of the fertilizer) and I do actually think they are growing much faster now! The weather isnt ideal for banana growth today, but they are pushing up a new leaf anyway!

The trouble with commercial fertilizer packaging and recommendations is, that it is geared to when people are
most likely going to use it. I.e. rose fertilizer is always high on nitrogen and phosphates. That is the right stuff
to use in spring, when people most likely remember to feed their roses, but it is not, what i would use in fall.

Knowing little about bananas yet, I would assume, that the recommended fertilizers are high on nitrogen and
potassium, because the blooming and fruiting, which would require phosphates, covers only a relatively
brief period in the life cycle of the plant.

It could of course also be, that the plant inherently requires very little phosphates.

Scot Nelson · 06-04-2011, 05:53 PM

Recommended levels of elements in banana leaf tissue in Hawaii:

Element (Range)
Nitrogen (2.8 - 3.1%)
Phosphorous (0.18 - 0.2%)
Potassium (3.2 - 3.5%)
Calcium (0.6 - 1.0%)
Magnesium (0.3 - 0.6%)
Sulfur (0.22 - 0.24%)
Iron (50 - 100 ppm)
Manganese (30 - 100 ppm)
Copper (10 - 15 ppm)
Zinc (25 - 40 ppm)
Boron (15 - 25 ppm)

These values are used by farmers in crop logging program in Hawaii. Leaf samples are submitted for tissue analysis.

Read more here: http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/nelsons/...management.pdf

06-01-2011, 09:12 PM	#1 (permalink)
PAbananas Location: PA Zone: 6-7 Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 29 BananaBucks : 17,731 Feedback: 0 / 0% Said "Thanks" 7 Times Was Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts Said "Welcome to Bananas" 0 Times	Feeding bananas Question on feeding Nanas. Got some Banana fuel but came without instructions on how much and how often. So if any have or are using this feed please let me no. Thanks

06-02-2011, 09:29 PM	#3 (permalink)
Olafhenny Olafhenny's Photo Gallery Location: Penticton, BC, Okanagan Valley, Canada Find me on the map! Zone: Hardiness Zone 6 Name: Olaf Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 1,705 BananaBucks : 246,909 Feedback: 0 / 0% Said "Thanks" 2,050 Times Was Thanked 2,012 Times in 876 Posts Said "Welcome to Bananas" 77 Times	Re: Feeding bananas I have for many years now regarded the specialty fertilizer industry a giant rip-off. Apart from replacing minerals, which are lacking in your specific area, plants need three different fertilizers: Nitrogen, Phosphates and Potassium, which are always listed in that order. You always need all three, but here is what they are basically for: Nitrogen is required for development of plant mass; greenery and stems. Phosphates promote blooming and fruiting and thereby seed production Potassium will aid in the development of roots. I buy my fertilizers in bulk from agricultural supply centres and mix them in accordance with the season and my requirements. In regions with distinct seasonal changes plants grow toward warmth. That means in spring, when the air is warmer than the soil, the plants grow upward and require fertilizers rich on nitrogen and potassium for growth, blooming and fruiting In fall, when the ground is still warm and the air cools off, many plants retract. Deciduous trees pull whatever nutrition is still stored in the leaves, which then turn into their innate colour without the chlorophyll, which has dominated throughout spring and summer. The leaves thus stripped of their nutritional value then drop off. Everything goes into the development of roots. That is, when potassium will promote that process, i.e. the last of the three designating numbers of your fertilizer has to be the biggest one. But never forget to also add some nitrogen and some potassium. If you need more guidelines on how to fertilize, just look at the formulations of the “specialty fertilizers" in your garden store and copy the proportion of the three numbers. You will find that “rose fertilizers” and “tomato fertilizers” have pretty much the same formulation, because you want them to grow and bloom/fruit aplenty, they are high on nitrogen and phosphates. The rip-off is, that the industry wants you to buy a small package of each as well as all the other “specialties”, which are basically all the same. So you have to use your head. You do not want a lot of “bloom and fruit” in your lawn, so be easy on your phosphates, but do not cut them out completely. The most dangerous fertilizer is nitrogen, as it has the tendency to ‘burn’ the plants, where it has been applied too liberally. I fertilize roughly in 6 to 8 week intervals. A couple of years ago in an effort to convince our strata corporation to switch to bulk fertilizing I priced it out vs. the same effective fertilizing value in Walmart, which again was significantly cheaper than our local garden store and found that Walmart cost more than six times the bulk prices. ‘Going bulk’ may set you back initially some $120.- or so, because you have to immediately buy a 20 to 25 kilo (44 to 55 lb) bag each of the three, but after that you just replace one bag at the time as required. __________________ The reason I joined this forum was to share experiences, my own and those of others and to learn from them.

06-02-2011, 11:45 PM	#4 (permalink)
palmtree palmtree 's Photo Gallery Location: New York City Find me on the map! Zone: 7b Name: Alex C Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,016 BananaBucks : 104,090 Feedback: 0 / 0% Said "Thanks" 1,492 Times Was Thanked 1,428 Times in 644 Posts Said "Welcome to Bananas" 103 Times	Re: Feeding bananas I usually use miracle gro on my bananas. I know some people are against it, but it always helps my plants grow fast and I never see any ill effects either. However, I do like to help out in keeping the enviorment as clean as possible so I am using an organic fertilizer this year (6-4-4). I just started using it this week so I cant say if its sucessful or not, but it usually takes about a week for fertilizers to "kick in". Good luck! __________________ Location: New York City, zone 7b

06-03-2011, 03:13 AM	#7 (permalink)
Olafhenny Olafhenny's Photo Gallery Location: Penticton, BC, Okanagan Valley, Canada Find me on the map! Zone: Hardiness Zone 6 Name: Olaf Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 1,705 BananaBucks : 246,909 Feedback: 0 / 0% Said "Thanks" 2,050 Times Was Thanked 2,012 Times in 876 Posts Said "Welcome to Bananas" 77 Times	Re: Feeding bananas Richard, you wrote: "I disagree, because 1. Several brand name formulas are based on what they can buy cheaply, and not necessarily on the needs and/or capacities of plants. This is especially true of private brands such as Vigoro in big box stores.” I have not made this experience. When I look at the packages of fertilizer, the contents are usually consistent with the requirements of the plants they are formulated for. I am not familiar with ‘Vigoro’. "2. Some plants, such as blueberries are very sensitive to the composition of Nitrogen they receive. You can get the ratios and pH correct but still harm the plant.” You are dealing with two separate kettles of fish. We were talking about fertilizers. Mineralization of the soil such as acidity (Ph) and trace elements is a separate issue. I submit, that if you use my proposed method of acquiring bulk fertilizers and mix and match them as required for your specific purpose, you save more than enough money to have samples of your soil analyzed by our local Dept. of Agriculture and receive recommendation for adjusting the mineral content to suit the crop you want to raise. As to nitrogen: Nitrogen = nitrogen = nitrogen. It is a chemical (N) straight out of the periodic tables and usually represented in your fertilizer by those little white nodules, which are not straight N but already reduced to 45% or less. I have stated below in my first post, that nitrogen must be used with caution, because it has the tendency to burn your plants, your lawn etc. I have no experience with blueberries, but for some more sensitive plants it is advisable to cushion the effect of nitrogen, by applying it in the much milder form encapsulated in composted cow or horse manure or composted grass clippings. I do not have such sensitive plants in my yard, but when I plant new plants I usually add bone meal or blood meal. Fish fertilizer will also do. That keeps them going until the next general fertilizing of the area they are in. __________________ The reason I joined this forum was to share experiences, my own and those of others and to learn from them.

06-03-2011, 04:28 PM	#10 (permalink)
Scot Nelson Location: Honolulu, Hawaii Zone: 10-11 Name: Scot Nelson Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 90 BananaBucks : 49,362 Feedback: 0 / 0% Said "Thanks" 128 Times Was Thanked 257 Times in 56 Posts Said "Welcome to Bananas" 1 Times	Re: Feeding bananas In Hawaii the banana farmers use 13-3-38 (with minor elements inlcuded) at a rate of 1/3 to 1/2 pound per month per banana mat.

Members currently in the chatroom: 0
	The most chatters online in one day was 17, 09-06-2009. No one is currently using the chat.

06-04-2011, 05:53 PM	#14 (permalink)
Scot Nelson Location: Honolulu, Hawaii Zone: 10-11 Name: Scot Nelson Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 90 BananaBucks : 49,362 Feedback: 0 / 0% Said "Thanks" 128 Times Was Thanked 257 Times in 56 Posts Said "Welcome to Bananas" 1 Times	Re: Feeding bananas Recommended levels of elements in banana leaf tissue in Hawaii: Element (Range) Nitrogen (2.8 - 3.1%) Phosphorous (0.18 - 0.2%) Potassium (3.2 - 3.5%) Calcium (0.6 - 1.0%) Magnesium (0.3 - 0.6%) Sulfur (0.22 - 0.24%) Iron (50 - 100 ppm) Manganese (30 - 100 ppm) Copper (10 - 15 ppm) Zinc (25 - 40 ppm) Boron (15 - 25 ppm) These values are used by farmers in crop logging program in Hawaii. Leaf samples are submitted for tissue analysis. Read more here: http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/nelsons/...management.pdf

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Feeding either a Super Dwarf Cavendish or just a regular Dwarf Cavendish	BillynJennifer	Container Grown Banana Plants	1	04-30-2011 05:04 PM
Feeding the deer	novisyatria	Tiki Hut	3	10-06-2010 12:20 AM
Heavy Feeding, need help!	leasmom	Container Grown Banana Plants	15	03-31-2010 08:56 PM
The value of feeding	bepah	Main Banana Discussion	4	09-03-2008 01:07 PM