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Anyone else growing Meyer Lemons or Kumquats?
I am a relatively new gardener. I started about three months ago and am still learning tons. I have gotten the Citrus "itch", ok that didn't sound good. And I was wondering who else is growing Citrus and what kinds, and if you could share some basic info or pics of your garden.
I have: tangerine tree (9 inches tall) Meyer lemon tree (10 inches tall, but bush form, with buds) Nugami Kumquat tree (24 inches tall, has four fruit on them, waiting to ripen) Small Navel orange variety (14 inches tall, with small buds) Please share if you can and show the rest of us your varieties and how you're growing your plants. Anyone had fruits on their citrus plants already and tried eating them? I live in Massachusetts so anything that is somewhat hardy and can be grown indoors I am willing to try. I will share pictures when I get home. I have some on my blog: Sunroom Gardening Thanks! |
Re: Anyone else growing Meyer Lemons or Kumquats?
I am growing every type of citrus. Here is a guide I wrote for gardeners:
Guide to Common CitrusKeep in mind that citrus grow from seed do not produce fruit that is true-to-type. Seedlings on the other hand can make good root stock to graft a scion of the true variety onto. |
Re: Anyone else growing Meyer Lemons or Kumquats?
Tommy, I'm growing a dozen or so citrus, mainly focusing on mandarins, some navels, etc. and a Nordman kumquat. There is a very good citrus forum at Citrus Growers Forum :: Index with members from around the U.S. worth looking into.
Richard, I'm looking to start a debate but many citrus seedlings are true to type. Nucellar seedlings are what allow rootstock to be grown from seed but the same principle allows many edible varieties to be grown from seed, but it's often 7 years or more before they bear fruit. |
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thanks! but I like the bananas.org people lol
I'd like to hear the debate myself. |
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that's awesome, hope mine will continue to grow. my buds are growing.
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My wife says our Meyer Lemon tree produces the best lemonade in the history of the world. I am impressed at the size and juiciness of the fruit although I am allergic to it. It is pretty maintenance free for us in Z9b. Hope yours are a success.
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A number of people on the site disagree with your claims Richard....myself being one of them.
Tom, I know you will have success with your citrus trees and there is never only one way of growing anything. You don't have to get technical about adding exact potash amounts either, to ensure your success. ;) I've grown many citrus trees from seed...including kumquat, keylime, and lemon. I've even mailed some of my Kumquat seedlings to some garden pals in the US and they survived the trips. :goteam: Something important if you're growing in pots is some good quality well-draining soil and a pot with good drainage holes. Having your citrus trees in soggy wet soil will be the death of them. :eek: I found good sunlight and regular feedings were the key to success in growing citrus trees. Being an organic gardener I use DNF Fruiting & Blooming formula. You can use what you like though Tom, as gardeners have different preferences and that's ok. :) Especially new gardeners...you learn so much more from just experimenting and trying things your way. The best garden advice I ever received was "STOP listening to other gardeners"!!! :ha: Looking forward to seeing your pics, Tom. How exciting that you're growing a few different types. : ) |
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Of course this is always your typical response to scare and intimidate new gardeners into thinking that yours is the ONLY way of doing things. It is not, however.
I sure hope that new gardeners will continue to share their ideas and feel free to discuss how they might like to do things, even if it doesn't coincide with other people's ways...including my own. ;) Frankly I find citrus trees ridiculously easy to grow, like many other fruits trees. Just add water, food, and sunlight and your success is practically in the bag! :D : ) |
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Please chill out. There is no justification for adopting the persona of a Flame Warrior over the discussion here. |
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Sorry Richard but I never read your links because most of them are simply inaccurate.
I've witnessed you running many of Jarred's newcomers off the site, leaving them angry and frustrated. Too bad it goes on. :( Anyway, I believe this thread is about citrus trees...another thing you're notorious for, hijacking other people's threads. Sorry for the interrption, Tommy. Back to your topic... : ) |
Re: Anyone else growing Meyer Lemons or Kumquats?
I have found one space in the room that gets more sunlight.
If you had a choice , sherry, would the citrus or bananas benefit more from that spot? I ask also because my kumquat fruits are there and more sunlight might help them ripen Thanks Tom |
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Oh yes Tom...the more sunlight you can provide, the better. ;) Warmth is a good thing too.
Soon, you'll be putting them outside! :goteam: Don't be surprised if growth is slower in the colder months. Things will pick up in spring when everything goes into vegetative growth. : ) |
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By the way, I tried to grow three "Sumo" seeds last year but they seemed to be albino seedlings and died. Only one sprout from each of the two seeds emerged.
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I have a meyer lemon in my house. The humidity is around 10 and it dropped all its leaves. I'm pretty much ignoring it in my basement to get it out of the light while the humidity is so low. I heard that lots of peoples trees loose their leaves over the winter because of the cold and drop in humidity. I'll have to see if it comes back to life in the summer.
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I've heard of that too, Tom. Bet it does come back for you. ;)
: ) |
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All "citrus" are in the tribe Aurantieae, but many are not in the genus Citrus. Not all Aurantieae are capable of nucellar embryony. For a layperson to distinguish embryonic seed types in a store-bought fruit is problematic at best, and assumes a lot about the pollination of that individual fruit. For anyone to obtain seeds from a seedless variety is intractable. In cases where nucellar seeds are used for propagation, the growers always go back to the same mother plant to avoid phenotype drift. Personally, I think it is cheaper in terms of time and labor to purchase a known citrus cultivar from an online seller like Four Winds Growers than to try to raise a home fruit plant from seed. On the otherhand, if the goal is just to have fun, then go for it! |
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I know some folks do it for fun and other times because the don't have access to budwood. Seedless citrus sometimes have a few seeds such as the Sumo (Dekopan) fruit I got last year. I hope to get budwood of Dekopan in maybe a year if it becomes available as planned but trying the seeds was a fun attempt in the meantime.
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For those of us who grew up yearly tasting fruits from the mother plants in Rubidoux, Redlands, and Exeter -- there can be noticeable taste differences between "the" cultivar and seedlings, along with nth-generation grafts. My aunt in particular would give us all a serious scolding! Of course she was Howard Frost's niece.
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Fighters to your corners please.
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Hi tom. Wow thats low humidity. You should try some misting it has worked well for me.
But yes in a couple of months the weather will start improving. |
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Something really fun, is to sprout Kumquat seeds from fruits at the grocery store. Keylime too. :D Citrus seeds germinate better when they're sown fresh from the fruit and not allowed to dry out. Mine came up within 10 days. :goteam:
: ) |
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What were you doing, Richard, that your aunt scolded you over?
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I am giving it tomato food, as it is the only thing i have right now that is even close to appropriate, in addition to seaweed, big bloom, and mycorrhyzae. it is under grow lights and I most it occasionally with lukewarm water. Trying to take whatever help I can get and not "over baby" it at the same time.
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Citrus perform well with N, P, K in the ratios of 3:1:2. For example, 9-3-6 and 28-8-18 have those proportions. To complement your tomato food and get near those ratios, I recommend you use equal parts tomato food and fish emulsion -- that is, for each quantity of tomato food you currently use, also add the same quantity of fish emulsion. |
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so i've been getting some chewing on my leaves, mainly near the middle and not on the edges. I put some flat beer and some vegetable oil near it as I hear that might kill the insect thats chewing it. Does anyone else know how to ge rid of bugs on meyer lemon trees? Its not aphids, or mites, it could be a caterpillar, or earwig or something else. I believe it came in the soil that it was shipped in. Please help me get rid of it with some suggestions.
Thanks, T |
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If you think mites might be a problem later on, then instead get a product that contains these 3 ingredients: (a) pyrethrin -- a plant extract from african chrysanthemums, (b) piperonyl butoxide -- distilled from sassafras extract, and (c) a surfactant such as aloe or neem oil. There are several brands with these compounds; for example the "Green Light" brand produces Neem II and Fruit Tree Spray. |
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The other night I could of sworn I saw something crawling in there. If I have the nerve I'll check tonight and catch it somehow and throw it outside. I'm pretty sure it came with the plant.
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I have kumquats that I have grown from seed:
![]() And I have a good size bush of Meyers lemon in my garage for the winter. I have blood orange ![]() and red grapefruit I started from seed also: ![]() ~JaNan |
Re: Anyone else growing Meyer Lemons or Kumquats?
Well, the tomato food is an organic granular type (NPK- 7-5-3), so I felt a supplement of big bloom every other watering could help keep more constant levels of phosphate available to the plant since the tomato food will break down and become available much more slowly. Also, the actual NPK percentages are so low I was under the impression (also I have been told this by a fox farm rep) that the benefits are more in micronutrients than the NPK. It is interesting that you mention high levels will kill micorrhyzae. Is that because it affects the soil pH? Plus, all of the label instructions, regardless of company, recommend reinnoculation on a regular basis for their mycorrhyzae supplements. Is this just to sell more product?
The seaweed I apply for exactly the reasons you mention, but I have stayed away from fish emulsion because its NPK is a little high on the nitrogen side. Are there additional benefits aside from NPK? |
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By the way, in terms of tomato food 7-5-3 is a poor formulation because the ratio of potash to nitrogen is too low. A better choice is a formula with the potash level at about 1.5 times that of the nitrogen -- or use a potash supplement with the product you have. But anyway, back to the topic of feeding your citrus. :) Citrus benefit from N, P, K ratios of 3:1:2; i.e., 2/3 as much potash in comparison to nitrogen. Now your "tomato" fertilizer is surprisingly low in potash, so it was my error to recommend additional nitrogen via fish emulsion. However, more phosphate is definitely not needed. Quote:
In your case the issue is that the 7-5-3 is already "out of balance" for citrus in terms of phosphate. Adding more via a bloom formula is a poor choice for your citrus and puts the soil biotics at risk. Quote:
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Thank you for the additional information. Quite a bit of my info comes from the labels and the product reps themselves (you should see the fox farm application schedules and the fact that they recommend two different types of mycorrhyzal supplements to be used together, with the same species of mycorryhzae). I try to do ad much research on my own as possible (I own quite a library of organic plant care books) to prove or disprove what they tell me. I have asked the rep specifically why anyone would need one over the other, or even both, and all I get are vague answers about maintaining levels of the organisms in the soil (not just for annuals) because they die off and must be replaced. Again, this seems like they are trying to sell product.
The tomato fertilizer is from Doctor Earth. The balance did seem strange to me, again, but I keep getting the same answers about "added benefits for fruiting plants". The same is said for the fox farm Big Bloom, which has percentages of 0.01-0.3-0.7. I am starting to feel a little jaded on these products now. Anyway, because I am big on research, can you recommend any books that address growing citrus (especially in containers)? Thanks again for your help. My biggest fear with this meyer lemon is the lemons will get to a certain size and then just fall off, as I have had many people tell me happens with citrus in containers. |
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By the way, when I recommend to a person to get a fertilizer that is (for a general example) 1-3-1 as opposed to 10-30-10, it is usually to prevent the person from over fertilizing, as it seems many people lean towards in using the products. I just wish I had easy access to a citrus only, correctly balanced fertilizer. Even Dr. Earth's "fruit tree" formula (labelled for citrus) is out of balance based on your information at 7-4-2. I am not sure why all fertilizers these days are like this.
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Today i repotted my meyer lemon tree to a smaller pot. I think it will do better there and i also mixed in some fresh soil.
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Richard feel free to start your own thread on your topic. I would like to continue discussing kumquats and meyer lemons on this one.
Jananas your fruit plants are awesome. Im not skilled enough to grow from seed. Feel free to post more pics as they get bigger. Im hoping my meyer lemon tree buds continue to grow well and open soon. T |
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The two main challenges in growing citrus and other fruiting trees indoors are: (1) supplying enough energy via light in the correct spectrum to the plant -- think of the leaves as solar panels, and (2) getting supplying enough potash in relation to nitrogen so that the plant can "service" the fruit. For light you need between 55 watts/sq.ft. to 75 watts/sq.ft. in the 6500 Kelvin spectrum for a period greater than 7 hours per day. 9 hrs per day is sufficient. Hopefully you have some natural sunlight enveloping the plant and a very cheap light meter that measures watts (not lumens) can tell you what the contribution is. Then of course you need to make up the difference with supplemental lighting: the CF65K (compact fluorescent 6500 Kelvin) bulbs work well as do a bank of 4-foot 6500K fluorescent bulbs. For nutrients, you would like the nitrogen (N) to potash (K) ratio to be about 1 N to 2/3 K, and the phosphate (P) to be the lowest. There are many fertilizer products in all shapes, types, and sizes from many suppliers that do this. These formulas are all examples: 3-1-2, 6-2-4, 9-3-6. If you walk into a big box store you'll likely see (among other things) an organic Citrus food that is 8-6-8 and an organic Palm food that is 8-4-8. Well, the first one is a little high in P, but the second is a pretty good choice. It's a bit more K than the plant will use but at least it meets the plants need. In the water-solubles you will see 20-10-15 which again is not quite the 1 to 2/3 ratio, but pretty darn close. |
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I would like to also take responsibility for having taken us a bit off topic here and I apologize. In my citrus news- my Meyer lemons are still doing well and haven't dropped the fruit! Will post pics soon, and hope to see everyone else's pics as well!
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By the way, I've heard a few times that the best-tasting kumquat is Meiwa. I haven't tried it yet and want to give it a try. Centennial tastes pretty good and is a very attractive variegated form.
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I've got Nordman which is like Nagami, but seedless. Probably will be a year or two before it fruits.
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Meiwa is good. If you like the sour flesh of Nagami, you might not love it. It is sweeter, with very little juice/flesh at all. At least that's my limited experience.
Slightly off topic, I had a taste test with Oro Blanco and Melogold pummelo hybrids today. Both were very good. I liked Melogold's texture and thinner skin, but would probably give Oro Blanco the nod for flavor -- it had a bit less bitterness. Neither is very sour, due to their acidless pummelo parent. |
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