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| Other Plants Discussion of all other types of plants besides bananas. |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Banned
Location: San Diego
Zone: 9-11
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No need to spray
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#22 (permalink) |
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<div style="font-style: italic;"><div style="font-style: italic;"></div></div>
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Zone: USDA zone 10a; Sunset zone 18/19
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It's too hard to pull up on its own. The roots are like power cables. I just found a few roots invading the root system of my Raja Puri, one of them was an inch thick.
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"The ultimate goal of farming is not the growing of crops, but the cultivation and perfection of human beings." ~ Masanobu Fukuoka Find me on linktree here as Solarpunk Farmer: https://linktr.ee/solarpunkfarmer |
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#23 (permalink) | |
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Muck bananas
Location: Pahokee, FL
Zone: 10
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#24 (permalink) |
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<div style="font-style: italic;"><div style="font-style: italic;"></div></div>
Location: SFV, California
Zone: USDA zone 10a; Sunset zone 18/19
Name: Andreas
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So, my dad has been giving me a hard time about this whole creeping fig shenanigan, as usual. He thinks that the back wall that it's climbing on needs a cover, and the creeping fig admittedly has done the job really well. When planting a cover crop under my bananas today, I came across these roots from the plant. They were smack in the middle of my Raja Puri's root system, and were even hugging the corms. It's ridiculous. If this doesn't convince him, maybe the only thing that will would be visibly sick banana plants. And I'm not going to let that happen again.
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"The ultimate goal of farming is not the growing of crops, but the cultivation and perfection of human beings." ~ Masanobu Fukuoka Find me on linktree here as Solarpunk Farmer: https://linktr.ee/solarpunkfarmer |
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#25 (permalink) |
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<div style="font-style: italic;"><div style="font-style: italic;"></div></div>
Location: SFV, California
Zone: USDA zone 10a; Sunset zone 18/19
Name: Andreas
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UPDATE: I got the okay to remove it, and I used the paintbrush method. I used about 3/4 cup of 1 part 18% glyphosate Roundup and 1 part water on the entire plant. I cut back the three main stems that I found (the largest one was over two inches thick) and applied a liberal amount of Roundup solution on them with a paintbrush. I also cut and scarified some of the larger stems and applied the solution there with the paintbrush as well. I sprinkled the excess on the leaves when I was done, and also pulled a decent amount of the plant off of the wall and removed it.
I'm not leaving until Saturday, so hopefully I'll be able to see onset of this monster's downfall. I'll keep you guys updated!
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"The ultimate goal of farming is not the growing of crops, but the cultivation and perfection of human beings." ~ Masanobu Fukuoka Find me on linktree here as Solarpunk Farmer: https://linktr.ee/solarpunkfarmer |
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#26 (permalink) |
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Location: Penticton, BC, Okanagan Valley, Canada
Zone: Hardiness Zone 6
Name: Olaf
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I, for one, am looking forward to the updates. It'll be interesting.
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The reason I joined this forum was to share experiences, my own and those of others and to learn from them. |
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#27 (permalink) | |
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Location: Pompano Beach, Florida
Zone: 10b
Name: Ed
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The way you applied herbicide to the plant may not work the key is to apply the glyphosate to the phloem, cambium and xylem not the leaves. location, strength and the amount of herbicide you apply is critical. Application of the herbicide is generally done around the base of the plant where the product can be dispersed throughout the tree's vascular transport system. This can be achieved by ‘frill cut’ or ‘hack-and-squirt’ the cut is made in the shape of a trough, just deep enough to expose the xylem, cut all the way around using downward strokes to flare out the bark. You can also perform a glyphosate injection by drilling small holes close together at a 45° angle (downward facing) and filling them with undiluted herbicide. Just like any other product the way it used can affect performance. Since you already applied herbicide and the fact that some plants are more sensitive to glyphosate then others, you have a reasonable chance of success. If you need to reapply I would use the herbicide at full strength (18%). It can take 10 days or so before the plant starts to die. ![]()
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Last edited by ez : 01-15-2014 at 10:09 PM. |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Banned
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Zone: 9-11
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I know an easier way
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#29 (permalink) |
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<div style="font-style: italic;"><div style="font-style: italic;"></div></div>
Location: SFV, California
Zone: USDA zone 10a; Sunset zone 18/19
Name: Andreas
Join Date: Sep 2011
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Thanks, ez. I already left up for college, so I'll let my dad know about this. As of now, there hasn't been much activity. Parts of the plant are dying, and the rest of it seems to be beginning to dry up. I cut the foliage off from all of the main stems, so the foliage should not last very long. It's more the roots I'm worried about.
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"The ultimate goal of farming is not the growing of crops, but the cultivation and perfection of human beings." ~ Masanobu Fukuoka Find me on linktree here as Solarpunk Farmer: https://linktr.ee/solarpunkfarmer |
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#30 (permalink) | |
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Aspiring BUY LOCAL farmer
Location: between flag leaves 34772
Zone: 9b
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How do I spray a 60 ft tree ? Ok so I could make that happen but controlling drift is another story. Nice links.
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winter winners, jackfruit, carambola, hua moa, d namwah, hak ip lychee with pink leaves 2 days before a cold snap eeeek! Winter losers, kohala longan, misi luki, 80% jackfruit seedling loss first bloomers, HUA MOA, DC, D NAMWAH, FHIA 17, KANADARIAN, RAJA PURI, M D NAMWAH best bunch FHIA 17 , undisclosed WORST BUNCH hua moa, 2 fingers |
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#31 (permalink) |
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Location: Now nesting in Titusville, FL
Zone: 10A or 9B ish. Like it matters?
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Same here. Declare it a treasured and rare plant. Guaranteed it will croak. (I was very successful propagating figs by practicing fignorance and considering them weeds.)
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#32 (permalink) | |
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Location: Now nesting in Titusville, FL
Zone: 10A or 9B ish. Like it matters?
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,153
BananaBucks
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Feedback: 0 / 0%
Said "Thanks" 2,921 Times
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