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Greenhouse leveling question
In the next few weeks we are getting a 6ft*8ft GH from Habor Freight. We have sandy soil here so I was wondering if I would have to worry about the greenhouse sinking at all? I'm going to place it on 4*4's and bolt it down. Should I rough the area/grass up where its going and lay down gravel? I can't cement anything down as this is a rent to own house. So if for some reason we didn't stay here the landlord would not be thrilled it being cemented down in the yard.
My parents have a expensive one and larger sized one. My Dad put the 4 wooden posts in the ground and cemented them in. Then made a foundation with 4*4's on top of that then laid gravel. All the rain we have been getting this year the area we plan to put it has not sunk at all,but it has no weigh on it as well. Also no water sits in this area with all the rainy weather we have had. Thanks |
Re: Greenhouse leveling question
You can lay down some brick or pavers in each corner leave about 2" above grade and place 4x4's on top.Keeps the wood out of the dirt. Go get 4 concrete form stakes, the metal ones , drive them in the ground and screw into 4x4's .
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Re: Greenhouse leveling question
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It gets real embarrassing (not to mention messy) when somebody's greenhouse or shed winds up "switching yards". :bananas_b |
Re: Greenhouse leveling question
Yeah guys I will have to anchor it down one way or another :)
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Re: Greenhouse leveling question
How you do it, depends partly on how long that installation is supposed to last. If you are leaving
home within the next ten years, you might get away with just driving 4 or 6 2x4s in to the ground 18 inches deep and screw or nail your bottom frame to those posts. Of course all lumber you use for this purpose should be pressure treated. Placing your lumber on pavers is not a good idea, unless they are clay bricks. Most pavers today are concrete and concrete in direct contact is poisonous for wood, because it attracts moisture and maintains it even while everything around it is dry. If you have a car port or one of your neighbours has one, look at the bases of the posts. You will see, that they are not set directly into the concrete, but nailed/screwed into galvanized steel brackets, which are in turn set into the concrete. Here is how you build a ‘Cadillac’ base, which will cost you only between 20 and 30 bucks more than the ‘slip shot’ solution, which I have described above: - Dig a hole in each corner 1 foot deep. It need not be more than 8 inches in diameter, but should, if anything, flare out at the bottom. - Fill these holes up with concrete and insert a bracket into each concrete filled hole. This is, where the whole quality of the job is decided. The brackets should not only be square to the frame, touching with bottom of their base plates the concrete, but also all be exactly the same height. For that it is helpful to pound a hub (small stake) near each corner, after you have dug the holes marked for elevation, from which you can easily measure down to establish the top of the concrete. But before you pour the concrete, you should make sure, that there is no loose soil in the holes. – Well, a little bit is unavoidable, but basically the pour should be against undisturbed native soil. You can find illustrations of the brackets I am talking about here: Concrete Fence Post Metal Anchor Sales, Buy Concrete Fence Post Metal Anchor Products from alibaba.com Chose the one on the bottom left, if you plan to bolt the 6’ cross on top of the 8’ stringer or one of the two beside it, if you want your frame to be flush. In that case you may want to consider using two 2 x fours bolted together instead of one 4 x 4. That would allow you to fashion an overlap joint at the corners. You can be sure to find these brackets at your local building supply store for about a couple of bucks each. For concrete I would recommend bagged ready mix. One bag will probably not be quite enough and with two, you will have some left over. :) Good luck, I have tried to go into quite a bit of detail, but if I left something out, then feel free to ask. Olaf |
Re: Greenhouse leveling question
Wow thanks,okay I will let you guys know what I end up doing.
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Re: Greenhouse leveling question
Whichever way you go, you may want to look into "temporary" vs "permanent" definitions for your location; "permanent" installations can be taxable & become part of the property, not being able to be taken along if/when you should move.
"Temporary" installations may not be subject to property taxes & may be taken with you if you should move. Just something to think about. ;) :bananas_b |
Re: Greenhouse leveling question
Yeah,the Landlords daughter leaves next door! If we do leave I don't care the greenhouse and all my plants are coming with us,with or without the deposit. Nothing we did can't be changed around. The yard looks a million times better!
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Re: Greenhouse leveling question
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4x4's might twist and bend the thin aluminium frame. Sounds like a good project. Don't forget to use your coupon for 20% off.:08: Good luck |
Re: Greenhouse leveling question
I was thinking about the rebar myself. On youtube people said they used 4*4's. But no idea down the road how that worked,they were also in cold climates. I will use burlap or gravel for the floor. Wood chips will bring in cockroaches. Thanks,I'm looking forward to it,yes I have my coupon.
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Re: Greenhouse leveling question
IS there anyone with old / used, but in good shape RR timbers to use for the base?
If so put a wanted ad on craigslist wouldn't hurt.. :^) |
Re: Greenhouse leveling question
Yes that's a thought :)
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Re: Greenhouse leveling question
pour a "foot" on your posts
drive a couple galvy nails half way into the bottom 8 inches of your posts set post in 5gal bucket (plant containers work well too) pour 1 bag concrete mix into each if you grease the inside of the bucket and insert a trash bag then you can even reuse your form the same can be done with any size or shape "Foot" you want to pour when you want to move the concrete can be removed with a couple whacks from a hammer |
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Re: Greenhouse leveling question
I've removed 200ft of sidewalk with a 20lb sledge.
Removing concrete from a wood post is easy because the wood penetration causes a doughnut effect further weakening the concrete against shock. The corners of the square post are thinnest and that is where you should aim. |
Re: Greenhouse leveling question
I've also removed concrete from 4x4's with a sledge, it does tend to break off the post fairly easily
PT 4x4's will tend to twist/warp some, the 6x6's are much better |
Re: Greenhouse leveling question
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6x6's FTW !! :goteam: seriously though I don't think anything is sinking, but wind is very unpredictable. Anchor it somehow to prevent damage to property, and your greenhouse, and wallet. |
Re: Greenhouse leveling question
Years ago there was some junk on the market called something like 'post hole concrete' or 'fence post
concrete'. But that is no longer sold here, probably because some people used it where they shouldn't have and got into trouble. If concrete was as fragile/soft as you guys describe it, all the concrete structures on this planet would have collapsed, long before construction was even finished. If 'Blown' has railroad ties or 6 x6es readily available, by all means use them, but as base of a light weight aluminum structure it is overkill, if you have to buy them. |
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Concrete is not fragile, but a 10+ lb sledge hitting it on the side breaks it off without a problem
Its not a matter of being soft, it wasn't designed to stand up to being hit with a sledge hammer |
Re: Greenhouse leveling question
The brittle and low tensile strength properties of unreinforced concrete cannot be denied.
Doubtless many concrete structures did collapse during construction before the nature of the material was fully understood. They would continue today, and at a higher rate , were it not for the incorporation of steel and other polymers. |
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