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Shortest Edible Cultivars
I am going to attempt to grow fruit in my conservatory in the UK and I don't care how poor my chances are! :08:
I can get pots up to 160L which are only 51cm tall, that leaves me with 7' from the soil level to the ceiling. I have a SDC which is probably a very good choice but everybody seems to think they don't taste very good (I've never had anything else) so what I really want to know is... What's the finest fruit that I can try and grow? |
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Given you will be in a pot and indoors, whatever you grow will be stunted in plant size, fruit quantity, and fruit size. The wild card in this will be that if they are not getting enough light in watts then the height of the plant will tend to stretch and might end up normal height. The height issue is mostly with new leaves. Banana plants send up new leaves in the form of a cigar roll that even on Dwarf cultivars is 2-3 foot high out of the top. So if the fruiting height is 4 foot, then ceiling height should be at least 6'. |
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You could consider going over to Cambridge and asking someone from the physics department to put a very large quantum hole in your conservatory floor. :ha: |
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I think I really just want to grow something different. Dwarf Red caught my eye but that will probably lift the roof off. :ha:
I do have some daylight, the SDC along with the other nanas are still growing. The nights are drawing in however! I have some knowledge about lights, PAR, etc. There is usually plenty of direct light from the glazed roof above (it is about 11'x11') but the sun is getting rather low now. Depending on the species I can probably have it outside for 5-8 months of the year, if it gets too tall. So it might not have to spend too much time pressed up against the roof. :ha: Quote:
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Hmm ... if your timing is right you could grow Dwarf Namwa to fruiting size and then send it outside to fruit for 5-8 months.
Nice going on the conservatory, an 11' x 11' translucent roof is excellent. PAR by itself is a poor measure, because ultimately it is the spectral distribution that is important. For optimal performance from most budding and fruiting plants, what you want is 1200 Watts of net output directed at each 1 square meter of plant surfaces from a distance of 1 meter, AND with a color temperature of 6500 Kelvin (CIE D65): Commercially, the 6500K high output fluorescents are the closest to this. In contrast, check out the distribution of a standard HPS lamp: ![]() |
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I hear that Dwarf Namwah has very good fruit and is pretty short in the ground (6-7 feet), and I'm looking into it myself. I'm not sure how well it does in containers though, although it would be shorter in a container.
Musa Dwarf Namwah - Bananas Wiki |
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Thanks for the replies.. guys.. :ha:
Richard, have you ever seen a plasma light? The spectrum is pretty close to the sun, they're very very expensive though! I guess I'd have to be very lucky to time the fruiting that well but that is most certainly something I am willing to try! This is England after all and I'd have to do something pretty funky to grow bananas here. I probably could have had a banana outdoors for 9 months this year, I'm waiting for the first frost of this winter still. It was frozen this time last year. I don't know what it's like in the US but there's obviously not a lot of demand for edible bananas in Europe and so they seem to be pretty hard to come by and availability comes and goes. Most are out of stock everywhere. I need to build a short list and then keep an eye out for them. I passed up on Rajapuri because I thought it was ornamental! I know most plants in pots are generally smaller but wasn't too sure whether this applied to bananas since they don't even grow a stem, I wonder how much smaller they are? |
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truly tiny or little prince
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Cheers jeffrey.
From what I understand there's not much chance of fruiting Little Prince and I thought Truly Tiny was a bit like a brand name for one companies SDC TCs? My SDC came labelled as "Musa 'Tropicana'", it was from a German chain of cheaper supermarkets that got quite popular in the UK in recent years. A little bit of researched told me that it's just a synonym for SDC. This is my best bet for fruit I'm sure. But I'm not going to be content with that, I don't want to just be able to say "I grew nanas in the UK". Nobody in the UK seems to realise that a banana is anything other than a Cavendish fruit (in fact it seems to be popular belief that a plantain is something totally different). If I'm going to do it, I want to do it in style! Something that looks or tastes a bit different! Dwarf Lady Fingers seems like an option, but of course it's a case of availability. |
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Hmmm I think DC and SDC taste great. Also when you purchase bananas from a retail store they are picked with the intention of being packed and shipped then ripen in the store ! They taste good! They look good ! We all seem to eat them :) BUT when we grow them and are allowed to ripen a bit on the plant they sure seem to taste a lot better .. That's just my personal experience and opinion
I see also that Richard mentions the potash ratio.. That’s a terrific chuck of information |
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Indeed trebor! I grow my own tomatoes because the gas ripened supermarket ones we get here usually have absolutely no taste and very little flesh. I know what a difference growing your own can make and it's good to know that the SDC will taste better! I dare even say that our supermarket bananas might be worse than your supermarket bananas because we're so much further away from the source. But they're probably the same...
Richard has supplied me with some fantastic advice in this thread and I am very grateful to all who have replied. I guess it may seem to you guys that I haven't really done my research because it's such a crazy idea, but I have! I've come a very long way in the last 6 months from someone just getting his first banana plant, I have a thirst for knowledge in everything and I've spent a lot of time reading and learning about bananas in general. I think that I'm ready to start my attempt now. I'm also ready for a massive failure so I won't be too disappointed, lol. What I lack most of all is experience! I intend to try and emulate the crawl space overwintering method in my roof next winter so I might be able to get fruit from taller varieties that way but I think it's quite unlikely. I don't get summers like bigdog gets! |
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Here's a comparison of different outdoor solar spectral densities: ![]() |
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Supplementary light is good to have because it will enable the dwarf cav. To attain flowering height quicker as long as the temps are kept between 67 - 80f.
Supplementary light isn’t essential though! In my local Park we have an old Victorian conservatory and they have fruited dwarf cav. without the use of supplementary light in winter. It took three and a half years to achieve flowering and the overall height of the cav. including roller was 6-7ft Obviously the lower the light levels in winter the less plant food and heat you would need, the temps must be kept above 67f though unless it produces a flag leaf! Then I would try to make it go dormant and drop the temps to 60-65f, you don’t want it to flower in winter that would affect the development of the fruit because of the low light levels… unless you then decide use supplementary light. Tony |
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Cheers Richard, don't get me wrong I'm not planning on getting any plasma lamps just yet... the fluoros will do for now!
And thank you Tony, I think we've met elsewhere! :ha: I have a 45W CFL directly above the SDC and that's all it's going to get this winter, I'm sure it would be fine without it as the room is almost as sunny as can be. I have finally found a supplier in Austria and preordred a Dwarf Orinoco and Dwarf Red for next spring! Dwarf Orinoco sounds like a good choice for fruiting outdoors and overwintering dormant. And Dwarf Red is well... red! :ha: |
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That sounds good, fingers crossed I might get to taste one someday! So long as they don't die in the roof. :ha:
The SDC will be the fail safe. :D |
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Does the DO taste different than the standard Orinoco?
My standard Orinoco has a hint of Blackberry taste in it. |
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