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| Banana Plant Health And Maintenance Topics This forum is for discussions of banana plant health topics such as coloration issues, burning, insects, pruning, transplanting, separating pups, viruses, disease, and other general banana plant health and maintenance issues. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Banned Location: moscow idaho
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so a while ago I said that there's these burns coming from the plant that just appear and its only from the plants I got from Florida hills nursery can any one explain what this is because it kills my plants after like a month having them???? you can see the leaf that was green and healthy collapsing dead. it burns/rots it right to the middle of it. its done this to a few of them besides the plantain. oh and theres a pic of Kristofferson with his fav. toy and a bone in his mouth his silly
![]() Last edited by dana mastro : 11-25-2013 at 11:36 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Happy Growing Location: Beaumont Texas
Zone: 8b, but 9b weather..
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Looks more like a bruise from getting banged around on its ride to your place.. :^)
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#3 (permalink) |
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Banned Location: moscow idaho
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but that's the thing it wasn't there when I got it? and I have had bruised ones before and they are blackish and dry out this turns to a redish brown and always starts at the same spot just below the middle of the stem. I think its the sun scorching it while there some chemical on it but after this one im going to wash the plant before I re-pot it just finding ways to preventing it to spread.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Happy Growing Location: Beaumont Texas
Zone: 8b, but 9b weather..
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When you 1st get a T/C plant you have to make sure its big enough to endure direct sunlight.. I don't know how big FHN plants are, but some that come from Greenearth are large enough to take Direct sunlight right off the bat. Plants I got from Well Springs Garden are small and have to be protected till they are big enough to endure.. Here is a Williams Hybrid I got from WSG.. it got limited sun for a month.. Mostly shade infact. :^)
![]() 2 Months later its ready for sun.. :^) ![]() |
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#5 (permalink) |
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yea okay I definitely think it is the sun doing the dirty work! but I still think its odd that it only happen starting from the bottom maybe if I keep it in sun light I should protect the stem part I do have toilet paper rolls I can cut to protect it
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#6 (permalink) |
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Happy Growing Location: Beaumont Texas
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They don't need direct sunlight right off the bat.. You can stick in the shade and they get enough to gather their wits. Even w/ my 2 month old Williams Hybrid it only received 50% sun, the rest was indirect.. Now almost 2 month later its ready for full. This pic is the plant 3 months after I got it.. :^)
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#7 (permalink) |
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I agree. Those do not look like chemical burns. Looks more like bruise, followed by cell decay, and then rot.
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so if its bruised what can I do to help it? hell I would even read it bed time story's if I had too
but seriously if I pull the bruised leaf before it spreads to the middle would that help or would me even trying that make it worse?? I try to be as delicate to them as possible. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
1 - soaked, underwater 2 - wet 3 - moist 4 - less than moist 5 - dry (1) occurs at the time of watering (2) wet is after watering, while the soil is draining (3) moist is after completely draining (4) less than moist is when the media starts to dry out (5) dry is ... dry Most plants, including naners prefer "moist" in between waterings. The place to check potted plants is at the holes of the bottom of the container. Use a chopstick of necessary to poke upward. When the soil there becomes less than moist, it is time to water. Self-watering pots are a poor idea for many plants including naners (although, I would recommend them for African violets). A tray under your pot that has standing water is also a poor idea. Let the soil drain. Let the soil be moist for whatever period of time it takes before moisture starts to leave the media en-mass. Then soak it and let it drain. and so on.
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