Hey all, I wish I could spend more time on this thread, but there is too much to do. I have spent the last ten years studying and growing plumerias and have a grove myself in my back yard. At one time, I had over 450 plumerias, but I have given away or sold a lot of my collection and have only about 150 now.
Just some quick notes:
Variegation in plumerias is not caused by a virus, but variegated plumerias can have the Frangipani Mosaic Virus (FMV) just like many other plumerias can. The signs and symptoms of the virus are the color streaking in the flowers that is being shown above in Sherry's picture.
Many variegated plumerias are being produced by the process of bud grafting, which is a very efficient way to propagated plumerias and is being done extensively in Thailand. The chimeras are discovered by removing a bud from a cutting and grafting it to a root stock.
Variegated plumerias are generally slower to grow and thus slower to root. If you have leaves, then you have a rooted plumeria. Alex C, it looks like you do have at least a start of a root system. Cuttings take a least three months to form a one-gallon-sized root ball. Water when the soil looks dry unless you live somewhere humid like Florida, and then you can water less often. Generally, if you have leaves, then you have roots.
Sherry, seeds from plumerias do not come true to the parents. They have a large number of chromosomes, and so they can look like any flower. Most seedlings turn out to be white, and many can be quite inferior when they bloom and should be destroyed. I sowed 40 seeds and waited six years for many of them to bloom for the first time, and by that time the trees were quite large. Seedlings get to be massive trees because of their tap root. I leave the seed sowing and hybridizing now to the experts in Thailand because they have the growing room and only select the best of the best flowers to circulate commercially. I just don't have to room, time, or patience to sow seeds anymore.
For tips on rooting cuttings, see my article that I published in 2007:
Creating A Plumeria Collection
This is a link to some FAQ's about plumerias, but some of the links need to be updated, and you have to be a subscriber to read the whole threads:
Plumerias: Frequently Asked Questions About Plumerias
Many experts and horticulturists who are very knowledgeable have agreed that the best fertilizer is the slow-release granular kind with all even numbers such as 10-10-10, etc. It is Potassium, not Phosphorus, that is the best element to encourage blooming. For the best blooming, make sure that your plumerias get full sun, lot of water with good drainage, and a regular feeding program. Also, repot frequently to a bigger pot if you are growing your plumeria in a container. I have found that the more mature plumerias bloom on a regular basis, and so sometimes plumerias will skip blooming in order to put on more growth when small. If you use the slow-release granules, then you can fertilize every three months or however long the fertilizer lasts.
Here is a link to my PhotoBucket album:
Pictures by Clare_CA - Photobucket I have pictures in there from previous years. I haven't had time to upload a whole lot in the last couple of years however. When I first planted my plumeria grove, I uploaded pictures to 2009. I just added some recent pictures to 2010 for this thread.
This is a link to one of my dearest friend's web site:
Services He is in Thailand and has acres and acres of beautiful plumerias, cassias, palms, and more. Please read the section on plumerias diseases for more information about the Frangipani Mosaic Virus.
This is unquestionably the best place to buy plumerias:
WELCOME!! Their prices are very reasonable, and they don't sell plumerias with viruses. Click on their "Thai Plumeria" link for their varieagated plumerias. If you have the choice, buy grafted plumerias instead of cuttings. Tell Luc or Carol that Clare sent you.
Clare