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#81 (permalink) |
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First of all, congratulations to everyone on a great success in rooting cuttings, and thank you for posting your pictures. It helps me understand there are so many plants that can root from cuttings with proper care.
However, I share the same experience with Dean that after three new leaves appeared on my rose cutting, it desiccated due to the heat of 100 degrees hot weather here. I did try to revive it, by putting a plastic bag on and by keeping some water on the bottom of the pot, but to no avail. In the past, I have tried hard reviving all my plants that got damaged by deer, rabbits, the weather, and my inexperience. Sadly to say, my success rate is very low when the plant is semi-hardwood or hardwood. I wonder whether I can ask for some advice on my hydrangea that suffered severe damage by the deer. It has a sentimental value to me because my mom rooted the hydrangea from cuttings a year ago. Since the damage, I have tried to keep it watered and some leaves did come back, showing a sign of recovery. But then the new leaves dried up. The weather has been too hot with no rain. I must have underwater it one day, or maybe I didn’t need to fertilize it, or both. I checked the plant this morning, and the branches are starting to look dry. So, I covered it with newspapers even though it is in a shady, less visible area. Other than covering it up and watering it, what else can I do to save it? I hope it is appropriate to post my question in this forum. Thanks!
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#82 (permalink) |
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SoundoftheMusic1...
Is there a chance you could show a shot of your hydrangea? It definitely sounds like it's suffered a dry spell and that's likely the cause for the dry leaves and branches. Hydrangeas like a lot of water, so you'll need to be consistent if you want it to flourish and do well for you. Over-watering is usually followed by yellow leaves with black edges. When underwatered, leaves usually droop and turn brown. Glad this thread has been helpful to you... I think you might have more success with your cuttings if you took them at a better time of year...Spring is usually best although many cuttings will root in Summer and Autumn as well. If you have supplemental plant lighting, even Winter is an option. Moisture is the most important thing when trying to root cuttings, and providing a steady and uninterrupted supply of it, can be tricky. When I first started trying to root them, I failed miserably, over and over again. Practice is the best teacher of all and eventually you'll know just what conditions to provide, and that work the best. Good Luck! : ) |
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#83 (permalink) |
![]() Location: Silver Spring, Maryland USA
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Soundofthemusic1- I had a brug cutting that was growing outside beautifully that was stripped to a stick by rabbits. After cursing up a storm, I pulled the stick out and potted it in a mix of MiracleGro potting soil and perlite, as I do for my plumeria cuttings, and brought it inside for the winter. It did real well, although did have spider mites. I brought the pot outside slowly this spring, and it is 3 ft. tall now with a side shoot over a ft. Good luck.
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Men In Nursing- "A Few Good Men" "Gardening is the purest of human pleasures." - Francis Bacon ![]() "If by a liberal, they mean someone who looks ahead and not behind; someone who welcomes new ideas without rigid reactions; someone who cares about the welfare of the people, their health, their housing, their schools, their jobs, their civil rights, their civil liberties; someone who believes we can break through the stalemate and suspicion that grips us; that is what they meant by a liberal, I am proud to be a liberal." John F. Kennedy, September, 1960 http://flickr.com/photos/saltydad/ and http://community.webshots.com/user/saltydad http://s751.photobucket.com/albums/xx151/saltydad/
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#84 (permalink) |
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Hi, Sherry,
Thank you, as always, for your kind words and encouragement. My newly purchased batteries won't power on my camera; it will take eight hours to charge them before I can try to take a picture. I have an out-dated digital camera, and I'm assuming that Cannon has fixed some problem when the camera was shipped to them for repairs recently. I would like to show some photos when I get them. My mom rooted those hydrangea cuttings in hot summer days here in Georgia, with plain ground soil in a pot and no rooting hormones. Any plants that come from other's special care, such as the plants you grow for others, are all very precious. I wish deer and rabbits can understand that before they destroy plant lives. And thank you, Saltydad or Howard if I'm not mistaken, I have been placing plants back into pots or moving them to a more hidden place for all injured plants. I was just debating whether I should do that this morning in the very humid weather here in Georgia. Both Sherry and you help me understand soil is a major key to success of growing plants, and so is perlite. Boy, did I learn that lesson hard this past spring when 95% of my seeds did not sprout - I made a huge mistake, buying 20 bags of potting soil/top soil from Lowes? I’m very happy for your brug cutting. What a great comeback! There may be just tiny hope left for my hydrangea. Thank you both again! Rae from Georgia
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#85 (permalink) |
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Hi, Everybody,
I'm not 100% sure how to post a photo here, so please bear with me. This was my hydrangea, back in May, after about a month's growth for the first time outdoors: Here is a picture of what it looked like this morning after I placed it back into a pot: Same picture but without the flashlight: I can't get a clear picture of the stem to show you, but there is hardly any green left. The branch on the left died after the deer nearly demolish it two month ago. The branch on the right was showing signs of severe stress yesterday and looked dead this morning. I couldn't tell how the root looked like because I didn't want to disturb the soil around it. I did use a plastic bag to cover it up and placed the pot in a shady area with dappled sun between 11-2. I also read more information from other web sites that DO NOT USE FERTILIZER at this time. My questions is this, can I at least use 10-10-10, to help with the recovery process even though it looked like 99.9% dead? I will do what Sherry suggests in another thread. Just try and experiment with it, as I did in the past. It would be an accomplishment if I can save it. Thank you!!! Rae from Georgia
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#86 (permalink) |
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I'd hold back on any fertilizer4 till it starts growing again. Also, don't over water it or the roots could rot. Did you get some cuttings from it?
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#87 (permalink) |
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Rae, this is very important...
NEVER fertilize a sick or unhealthy plant, as it will almost always result in death! Just plain water and no strong sunlight, are your best chances for success. Thanks for sharing shots with us. It sounds like you are doing things right and I sure wish you luck. Hopefully it will sprout some new leaves for you shortly... : ) |
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#88 (permalink) |
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Thank you, Tony O and Sherry,
No, I did not get any cuttings because the plant looked dead to me. But I did cut off bits and pieces from the right-hand side branch to look for any vital signs; that branch was still somewhat alive until this morning. Thank you both for the tips on fertilizers and water. You have been more than helpful. Rae from Georgia
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#89 (permalink) | |
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#90 (permalink) |
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Good Lord, not more Beautyberry cuttings...
Yup, more! ![]() These ones have many berries on them so I'm looking forward to seeing how easily they root... ![]() : ) |
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#91 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Are you trying to root those beautyberry cuttings in water or soil this time? My mom rooted hydrangea cuttings with flowers on them in potted soil with success, maybe less flowers than the berries you show. What you are trying sounds very hard, but still feasible, to me. Definitely, I'm curious about the development of your beautyberry cuttings. Best of luck to you... ![]() Rae from Georgia
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#92 (permalink) |
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Definitely trying to root these in water because it seems to be a very successful method with Callicarpa and I love how easy it all is.
I got the feeling from my last cuttings, they could go on growing indefinitely in the water and the roots grew like crazy. I did root a few in soil too with a bit of softwood rooting hormone (wood was soft then but now it's hard) and they were successful also but slower to take, I found. I definitely wanted to supply those big berries on my new cuttings with some steady moisture and knew that the water would be best for this. Hoping they'll root fairly quicky for me even though they are focused on ripening their fruits, not growing roots. Normally you wouldn't root cuttings with fruits already on the vines because it's the wrong time. Better to wait until the plant is in vigorous vegetative growth, as most plants are in Spring. This is kind of an experiment because Beautyberry is so easy to work with. All my other cuttngs will be mailed out within the week to the folks I promised them to. They are ready! Get them in the ground promptly and the roots will have plenty of time to establish for next Spring. Or you can keep them inside all Winter and put them out next year. That's up to you guys. Some cuttings are larger than others, but all of them have excellent root systems which is what counts at this early stage. Don't prune them anymore this year when you receive them, unless they are staying inside. Otherwise, begin pruning again next Spring. : ) |
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#93 (permalink) |
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Remember these cuttings I got from Zac in Texas?...
![]() Well just look at one of them now blooming in my indoor bathroom garden: ![]() ![]() I love the way the little flowers look like mini pink lilies... ![]() Lots more buds that will bloom soon... ![]() Thanks Zac! : ) |
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#94 (permalink) |
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Took these shots today:
This is one of my favorite sedum cuttings from Zac in Texas because of the tri-colored leaves (green, white, and pink). It's slow growing but I can tell it's going to be a real beauty once it gets going... ![]() Took this shot of the whole pot so the other Texas succulents could be seen... ![]() : ) |
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#95 (permalink) |
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Autumn is a time when Holly shrubs put on their best growth. Must be why my "blue princess" female holly cutting is beginning to grow...or at least the leaf bud in the centre is really swelling much more now and I'm waiting for it to burst open with new leaves...
Not the best shot because I was in the middle of misting some stuff, but I took a fast shot to show how healthy it still is after all these months... ![]() I removed the one other set of leaves only to encourage it to root a little quicker. I'm actually shocked that it's rooted at all because it's not traditional to root Holly cuttings upright in the soil. I used Wilt-Pruf though to lock in the moisture which I think played a big role. These cuttings are for Saltydad when they root more, as they are just beginning and much slower because these cuttings were taken late in the season... ![]() : ) |
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#96 (permalink) | |
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Sherry,
Those tri-colored sedum of yours are indeed beautiful. When I visited the sedum garden at Stanford University a few years ago, I saw all sorts of interesting sedums, but nothing tri-colored. Are they Sedum spurium Tricolor? Quote:
It is very interesting to learn that it is not traditional to root Holly cuttings upright in the soil, but how else will you root them? When I read about your rooting Marigold in water, it inspired me to root basil the same way. I covered my glass jar with a plastic bag and put tiny bit of fertilizer in the water, and in about a week, the basil cuttings rooted. It was really a fun and satisfying experience. Thank you, Sherry, for the inspiration. ![]()
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#97 (permalink) |
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Got Hylocereus cuttings?
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#98 (permalink) |
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Great cuttings, Richard!
![]() Rae, I apologize but somehow your post got past me and I didn't see it until now... As for the tri-colored sedum...I understand it is pretty special although I'm not sure what it is exactly. Would you like a piece in Spring when it really gets going? Zac from Texas sent me the cutting and tells me they're slow to get growing but once they do...look out! He only sent me a tiny 2" piece but it got tall enough for me to break it apart and now I have two cuttings growing. They are both doing super and I can tell they will grow terrific here. Holly cuttings are normally not rooted the way I've done mine at all... Normally 6" Holly cuttings are taken from new canes of new growth while the bush is dormant, which means the cutting will be leafless. Although they are leafless they still have bumps on the canes known as bud unions. The following year's leaves grow from these. You dip a bundle of these cuttings in a hardwood rooting hormone powder and tie them together in groups of about 5-10. In an area of your garden that receives full sunshine, dig a hole 12 inches deep. Drop the bundle in, in an upright position and cover it over with 6" of soil. Mark the area with a stake, so in Springtime you know where to look for little sprouting Holly shrubs... : ) |
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#99 (permalink) |
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Propagation under mist of Holly and related plants is popular in the trade. Take hardwood cuttings just as the plants are breaking winter dormancy -- about the diameter of a pencil and a few feet long with plenty of nodes near the end. Dip them in rooting hormone and pot in porous media, then put them in a mist bed. If you don't have a mist bed and you are just doing a few, then a cloche works very well provided the day time media temperature is in the low 70's F and the night time media temperature stays above 60 F.
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#100 (permalink) |
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It's not necessary to be this technical however with your environment or conditions. I rooted my Holly cutting in an open bathroom window, and in such a way that contradicts what all the textbooks say about how to root Holly cuttings. It was a successful experiment.
Don't be discouraged by technicalities that really are not necessary and certainly not the only way of doing things. I didn't even need to mist my Holly cutting, although I did use Wilt-Pruf to lock in moisture while rooting took place. Sorry again Rae, about missing your post. Hope this answers your questions. Great too about your Basil! ![]() : ) |
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