Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

A little closer look at my mini Phalaenopsis. These flowers are only about an inch across.

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

thanks for posting the pic patti...for those of you growing phals...heres a misconception..at least for the northern hemisphere...it is not the lower temps that initiate blooming as first thought....apparently,according to the international phal society...it is the shortening of days..and lenghtening of night.....Most of my phals have two infloresences on them,I think because of regular fert routine,especially during the leave growth stage.....I have about 80 phals,most of which I created...its a little like playing god....fun ...fun!

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

Wow, 80? I had 9 but I'm down to 2 now.

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

OK, here is new update on my orchids! Yesterday we had new orhid flower for the first time:

with more buds ready for opening ;)

In a firs pic U can see my first orchid still in flower after more than 3 months now
:woohoonaner:

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

I currently have 4 orchids blooming!!

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

Few pics of my orchid corner






:woohoonaner:

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

Today I took Mom to see the annual Orchid Society Show at Brookside Gardens. Big mistake!!!! We ending up walking out 2 hours later with 6 new orchids. All are in flower, and simply gorgeous. We could have bought 10 more if I hadn't had a moment of sanity. I added pics of them to my gallery. I also put in a bunch of pics of one of my aquariums. Not a garden related theme, but it is a planted tank, so ignore the beautiful fish and just look at the plants! LOL

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

As the other's said, the inflorescence is dead, snip it off close to the base. They don't last forever.

If I may comment on an earlier post - you can buy either sphagnum moss, or peat moss (dead high-acid half decomposed plant matter), not sphagnum peat moss. For orchids, spahgnum moss.

As orchids go, most don't like a mix that retains too much moisture. Root rot from overwatering is how most 'newbys' kill orchids. That being said, phalaenopsis, as a rule, prefer more moisture than most other orchids. BUT, do not leave any water in the crown overnight. This can start crown rot, and could cause you to lose the entire plant, since the crown is usually the only growing point for phals (and vandas), and unless it is a large phal, it may not be able to live long enough to put out a side shoot and recommence growing. I am fanatic enough about my phals that if I see water in the crown after 5pm (better to water in the morning, and avoid probs), I have taken a drinking straw and blown air in the top to blast the water out of the crown.

That dried stem, when still green is usable. Once it dries up, though, it doesn't do anything except detract from the plant's appearance. After the initial blooming, when the blooms begin to drop off, you can stimulate a 2nd blooming by cutting just below the lowest bloom (unless you have pendulous blooms like I grow mine, then you cut just above the highest bloom - I like the more natural cascade effect rather than staking it vertically). Once an 'eye' has become a branch, bloom, or keiki it will never be able to used again; if still dormant, it can become any of those three or it can stay As a rule if you want a 2nd blooming, give more light; and if you want keiki's give less light. A dab of keiki paste under the small calyx covering the dormant 'eyes' helps, too. A word of caution. Don't try for a third blooming; it takes a lot of energy for the plant to bloom, and after a 2nd blooming it needs a rest, otherwise you are weakening your plant, and this leaves it more vulnerable to diseases and pests. Some large older phal can put up 2, 3 or more inflorescences without any problem, but I wouldn't allow that with a young plant. I had a Phal. aphrodite that had 4 spikes and was at the same time growing 2 side shoots from the base. Three of the spikes grew blooms, and the other parts stayed dormant until it finished blooming. Then the side shoots started getting larger, and the smaller spike started making more flower buds. I guess it was parsing its energy out over time, but most phals would have just exhausted themselves by developing everything at once.

As far as the potting mix goes, usually the small seedlings are in sphagnum moss. It retains moisture, and is easier for the vendor to pot with. As the plant gets larger though, it packs too tight, and prevents good gas exchange around the roots. These generally grow on the side of a tree, and the roots have constant air exposure. The part attached to the bark gets the moisture, not the whole root, and if you have constantly damp tightly packed sphagnum choking the roots, you will eventually get root rot, and a dead plant. My larger phals get a bark/moss mix or just straight bark depending how much moisture I wish to keep in the pot - more moss = more moisture. Not everyone has the same growing conditions (and these will vary throughout the year) so you have to try different mix combinations, then feel and observe your plants, and adjust accordingly. I can give you general rules for a specific type or orchid, but you may still need to alter them for your specific locale/conditions. It ain't a 'cookie-cutter' solution that works equally for all of that particular type of plant.

Whew! That was a mouthful. Hope this was helpful.

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

I'm always glad to see photos of 'chids, but since this is a 'nanner forum, I didn't want to go too crazy in that direction. However... since someone else has already done so, I'll post a few pics as they bloom. I'm only a backyard grower, and a small backyard at that; but I do have a few orchids that I've managed to keep alive for a while.


Epidendrum NOID (no ID)


Papilionanthe teres


Cattleya lawrenceana

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

They look great!

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

Thanks! By the way, before any of you 'snow-birds' think it is nice to be in Hawaii :2221: with a warm climate for orchids/nanners/plants in general, cymbidiums (very attractive and floriferous orchids) and odontoglossums won't grow well here because they like colder climates. :coldbanana: I'm green with envy! Most warm growing cymbidiums have small blooms with shades somewhere between yellow and brown. :(

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

Paph. Yerba Buena 'White Cap'

Phal. Ming Hsing Beauty

Odcdm. Wildcat 'Chadwick'

Phal. Sogo Yukidian V3



Phal. Jumbo Red Rose

These are the new ones.

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

Yug- Those 3 are so pretty!

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

Thanks! Yours are also quite nice. I used to not like phals very much, then I tried one, a 'baggy baby', and it kinda 'grew' on me.

-- a 'baggy baby' is one of those that you can find at Wal-Mart, Lowes, or some big-box store on a display that usually has seedlings of cattleyas, dendrobiums, or phalaenopsis hanging up in small plastic bags.

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

Ante- I love your orchid corner. Your plants look so healthy and well cared for, as well as beautiful.

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

Here are some that I have currently blooming:


Phalaenopsis Carmela's Pixie
Blooms are about 1 inch wide, and have a mild scent.


Phalaenopsis Timothy Christopher
Blooms about 1 1/4 inch wide. There is a 4n (double the chromosomes) variety of P. Timothy Christopher with pinkish blooms.


Renanthera Kalsom
Took forever to begin blooming, and now this is the 4th blooming in just under 2 years.


Cattleya lueddemanniana var alba
My only white of this species. Usually comes in light to medium lavendar.


Cattleya lueddemanniana
This is a little darker than the normal lavendar. Shape sucks!

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

Here`s my favourite Dendrobium (pic from last year).

Re: Attention: ORCHID GROWERS!
 

Gorgeous, Linda!!!