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#1 (permalink) |
<div style="font-style: italic;"><div style="font-style: italic;"></div></div> Location: SFV, California
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![]() It's a creeping fig. And it's choking out my banana plants and fig tree.
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#2 (permalink) |
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![]() Cut the vegetation away from the plants you want to live.
Over the counter you can buy "Turflon Ester", or under-the-counter (online) "Triclopyr 4E". For the former, I would use 2 fl.oz. per gallon, and the latter follow directions on the label. In either case add to the mix a horticultural oil that contains a penetrant. A teaspoon per gallon is plenty. Finally, if the pH of the water source is neutral or alkaline, add a teaspoon per gallon of something acidic that does not contain electrolytes (copper, zinc, iron, etc.). Ammonium sulfate (e.g., sold as hydrangea blueing) is a good example. Spray the plant, wait two weeks, cut back the dead growth and spray again. To avoid hitting nearby desirable plants -- don't spray but instead dip a rag in the mix and wipe the plants. Anywhere the mix or spray touches the ground -- avoid watering the ground (or protect from rain) for two weeks. Triclopyr breaks down to inert compounds in 7-10 days. Creeping Fig is on my list of noxious plants.
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<div style="font-style: italic;"><div style="font-style: italic;"></div></div> Location: SFV, California
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![]() The issue isn't the leaves, it's the roots. It's invading the root system of my plants and preventing them from growing properly. My Namwah has barely grown this year compared to my other plants, and my fig tree has barely grown since I planted it two years ago (it has actually only produced 3 figs this year, last year it produced around 10). And it choked out a Raja Puri that I planted to the point where I had to remove it. When I dug it up, its roots had completely invaded the soil around the corm. That's why I need to kill all or most of it. And I fear that if I don't remove it it's only a matter of time before it gets to my nearby Pisang Klotek and Raja Puri. If it wasn't doing that, it wouldn't be an issue.
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#5 (permalink) |
Location: Tampa, FL
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![]() I hate to say it, but I find the most effective (and least damaging to everything else) way to remove something like that is manually. Unfortunately it's going to take at least half of your Saturday, but you need to just get in there and start clipping, snipping, pulling, etc. Get the majority of it, some may spring back in the coming weeks but just keep up with it.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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![]() Quote:
![]() There is a product at WalMart called "Eliminator" which is 41% glyphosate. I have used it for several years. Cut Stump or Stem Application Stump treatments are most effective during periods of active growth. Stems of shrubs, trees, or bamboo should be cut close to the soil surface. Immediately after cutting, herbicide should be applied with a paint brush or with a plastic squeeze bottle. Delaying application will result in poor control. For small stumps, completely cover the cut surface; for large stumps, it is only necessary to wet the cambium (the outer ring of wood, next to and including the bark). For vines or small-stemmed shrubs, stems can be cut with loppers or clippers and herbicide solution painted or sponged onto the cut end. Treatment solutions should contain 8% to 10% triclopyr (the 8% material available to homeowners in nurseries and other stores will work fine, undiluted) or 8% to 10% glyphosate. (If using a brand that has 18% glyphosate listed in the active ingredients, make a 1:1 solution of the product and water. If the product contains 41% glyphosate, use 1 part product and 3 parts water.) I use appropriate hand/eye protection, disposable paint brush and container. |
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![]() Exactly. This is why you want to use Triclopyr.
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#8 (permalink) |
Location: Penticton, BC, Okanagan Valley, Canada
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![]() Send it up here, it will freeze in winter.
![]() Despite resenting deeply anything coming out of Monsanto, Round-Up has its uses if applied sparingly. I would spray it on the leaves and then again a few days later. It does have the reputation to spread from there into the roots and subsequently kill the whole plant. You may want to check out their website to make sure, that this applies to woody plants as well.
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#9 (permalink) |
<div style="font-style: italic;"><div style="font-style: italic;"></div></div> Location: SFV, California
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![]() I would gladly.
![]() I was actually thinking about the glyphosate method, but here's the issue that I have. It is literally right next to my banana plants. The main pseudostem of my Namwah is less than a foot away from the foliage of the plant. That's why I wanted to use the glyphosate, because it wouldn't require me using herbicide on the leaves, which I might accidentally end up getting on my banana plants and fig tree.
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#10 (permalink) |
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![]() I know a better way
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#11 (permalink) |
Location: Penticton, BC, Okanagan Valley, Canada
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![]() I have just looked up Triclopyr, because I had never heard of it and it appears, that its availability
in the States is rather iffy from the information gleaned here: http://www.epa.gov/oppsrrd1/REDs/2710red.pdf and here: http://tinyurl.com/m6f6u8y Round-Up is manufactured in the US. That gives that poison a leg up over the other one, Triclopyr, which is manufactured in India
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#12 (permalink) |
<div style="font-style: italic;"><div style="font-style: italic;"></div></div> Location: SFV, California
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![]() Quote:
You do not have to spray that stuff on all the leaves. Just on the ones further away from the banana should be sufficient since everything is interconnected. Hang some plastic sheeting over the banana, while you are spraying, if you can get it that high ![]()
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DM |
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![]() Triclopyr 4E Herbicide - 1 Gallon [42750-126] - $67.95 : Keystone Pest Solutions, Low price herbicides and pesticides
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Woody Weed Invaders Woody Weed Invaders Management Guidelines--UC IPM The Myth of Wandering Weedkiller (This article talks about herbicide translocation through root grafts.) http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20cha...nslocation.pdf |
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#17 (permalink) |
Muck bananas
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![]() Triclopyr + Diesel Fuel = Dead Plant.
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Location: Now nesting in Titusville, FL
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![]() I worked as a landscaper for a few years; we used a lot of glyphosate. I thought it only worked on leaves but my coworker, who happened to have her herbicide/pesticide license, routinely cut down errant saplings then painted the 3 or 4" stump immediately with full strength product. And it worked. Not always at first--a second or third or even more fresh cut applications were sometimes needed--but no overspray issues. YMMV.
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#19 (permalink) |
<div style="font-style: italic;"><div style="font-style: italic;"></div></div> Location: SFV, California
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![]() Thanks everyone, I think I'm going to go the glyphosate route. I can probably get rid of it without hurting nearby plants that way.
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#20 (permalink) |
Aspiring BUY LOCAL farmer
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![]() Glyphos for newbs.
Use soft water ph at 4-5 and some N pref ammonium urea works too Spreader sticker, oil soap, or bar soap and vegtable oil in magic bullet, 1 tsp each the rest water, blend well, solution can be tested on leaves, if it beads then use more soap until it lays flat and covers. Optimum time to spray late night or early morning as dew dries. Pref not during drought. Spray till runoff, larger droplets drift less, low pressure makes less.drift. Repeat every week until plant is dead dead dead. Glyphos has Zero soil action so don't waste it on the dirt. I use 1oz per gallon of 41% but for something that really needs to die 2oz gal yields faster results. Or full strength and a paint roller. lolz. Tryclopyr is featured in many "brush" formulas and sometimes works better on woody plants. I've personally killed large trees with only glyphos, though no speed records were set. Walmart almost surely sells something labeled brush which contains both glyphos and triclopyr. grats on not succumbing to fearmongering or lies about Monsanto being the devil. I'm sure youcll find chemicals to provide a much more leisurely plant removal experience.
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