Kat2

sets fruit and ends up producing 3 or 4 fruits--this year it looks like only 1.

It's been in the ground for 3 years or so. I know it's not watered or fertilized; I have been trying to remedy that with generic MG and deep watering every 2 days because it's very dry here. (Not my plant.) It had that black soot on leaves which I cleaned off; it came back. I read that was due to aphids; I have sprayed it, with owner's permission, with bug b gone or something like that. I know it's too late for more fruit this year but would like to make it produce better next year.

There are dead branches I can prune and 1 that's crossed that needs to be cut but what else and when? Are there citrus tree spikes? Or how else do you increase nutrients? Leaves are green but formed fruits dropped off so I'm assuming it needs more food or something.

Selfish question--I'm trying to learn about citrus for me also.

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trebor

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...67720277,d.aWw

Once a week 4 weeks in a row you will see the mold start to break apart. Neem is cheap But you must spray under the leaves. then spray ground and other surrounding plants.. LOOK to see the insect causing the problem.. Good luck!
Also insecticidal soaps mixed with the Neem works well..
Bonide Insecticidal Soap Concentrate # 654, Makes 24 Quarts

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If ya can't eat it, it ain't growing in my back yard !

kubali

when an aphid, or scale insect feeds, it gives off a secretion from its backside, this secretion is a food source for an innocuous fungus called "Sooty Mold", (the black soot to which you refer..), it actually is doing no harm to the tree, save aesthetics, but it is telling you that you have an insect problem that is doing harm. Citrus needs to be on a spraying program for Fungal problems and Insect problems or eventual decline will result; Copper is sprayed once every 3 months for Fungal prevention and a Horticultural Oil every months for insect control. Fertilize your Citrus 3 times a year with a well balanced Citrus fertilizer and maintain proper irrigation during the dry season. If you spray the tree now with the oil, you will eradicate the insects, thereby removing the source of food for the mold; the oil will also loosen the existing mold, so that you can wash it off, along with the dead insects. Always follow the instructions on the back of your products (oil and copper) and avoid spraying the oil during the heat of the day, apply in the late afternoon, let it work overnight, and first thing the next morning, wash off the application and dead insects. And it is hard to say without having been there and seen it but like I said you have to water in fruit deep to keep it from aborting a lot of fruit like march thru June when fruit is developing and we usually don't get much rain here......

Kat2

Thanks! I think the insect issue is under control for now but I'm watching. I would definitely prefer using Neem and dish soap (not Dawn) has been my "go to" bug deterrent for many years but, since the tree is done blooming and it's a long time before the sole orange ripens, I was okay using a chemical provided by the owner.

Is there a guide to pruning citrus? What is the fertilizing schedule? I was thrilled to see the plant bloom and little oranges forming so I assumed everything was copacetic other than the soot issue which I washed off gently. Once I realized the tree was thirsty and verified that it had not been fed at all, I started my actions. Too late for fruit but getting her healthy now should mean a better crop next year. BTW, the owner is an avid gardener with a beautiful yard filled with gorgeous plants but neither of us know about citrus.

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trebor

Fertilize (March, May and October), one pound fertilizer to every foot of limb spread. Example a tree with a 10 foot limb spread that is pruned back to 8 feet still receives 10 pounds of fertilizer. The best time to prune citrus is February through April. Those are pretty standard for citrus. Prune small trees lightly no need to cut them back ever!!!! Sunniland Citrus, Avocado and Mango Fertilizer 6-4-6 is what a lot of people here use because its pretty good . Nothing is as good as a custom blend but for that ya need huge orders

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If ya can't eat it, it ain't growing in my back yard !

Snookie

A little of the topic.....Hey I planted a Blood Orange in the ground here in Lizard Creek La approx 10-12 days ago and it's growing new leaves and

branches like crazy however; after research seems like it may still get a little to chilly for it so;

I have an identical plant I have not planted yet that I'm thinking about planting in a large pot:}

Anyone growing blood oranges in a pot successfully?

Thanks in advance for everyone's advice:}

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Mayor of Lizard Creek

chipboy44

Im in the same boat as you about. I bought my blood orange tree from California and I live in Daytona Florida. I got the tree 4 feet tall and had hundreds of oranges on it. I planted it watered it and eventually every single one fell off. It has now been in the ground for 3 years and has put pout new growth every spring but no flowers. This year, for the first time it bloomed but only on half of the tree, and unfortunately not a single flower held and I have a 10' Valencia that bloomed 15 feet away from it. I am not so happy with my success but I am not giving up. I fertilize and water well and know all will work out. I am happy that the tree is healthy and continuing to grow. We have had 3 very mild winters here perhaps that is an iussue. I have no idea but at least I have had 3 years of growth for the tree to get established and strong.
Salute'
rick

Kat2

The owner had an opened 5lb bag of Suniland 6-4-6; I figure there was maybe 4lbs left. The directions said 1lb per foot of tree in either height or width whichever was greater so I watered (I had deep watered last night), spread the contents (did not remove the oak leaf/pine needle "mulch" but did stir it in) around the tree and watered lightly. I'll give her a good soaking tonight. I hope I did this right.

The branch with the orange on it is very healthy; leaves on the rest do not look really perky. Would a weak foliar feed with MG help that or should I just wait for the fertilizer to take effect? And how long before you see "action"?

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2woodensticks

aphides or whiteflies???black soot from both..

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got to love em..{neotropical rattlesnake..cascabell}

Kat2

Aphids have been very bad here so I suspect they're the culprits.

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