JP

Sad fact.

Kat2

I agree. Not because I know more about Rona than a few mentions from another board from friends in Canada including a guy who supplies concrete garden forms to them (they're slow to pay and nickle him down if possible.) Hey, I get even by purchasing marked down plants. Never Musas--they water those well.

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JP

I do too! I even bargain them on liquidation prices.

Snarkie

Dump some Quickrete or similar product on top and mix it all in. Then use a watering can to moisten it. It won't be as good as doing it properly, but it will work.

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Doug (D.A. Hänks) http://www.imdb.com/name/nm2955582/?ref_=fn_al_nm_1


The Only Eastern Redwood Forest in America




"Nuke my 'nanners, will you?!"

subsonicdrone

have not seen kat2 or jp on here in a while

Snarkie

I'll drop JP a note on FB and see what he's up to. I haven't heard from him on there in a while either.

__________________
Doug (D.A. Hänks) http://www.imdb.com/name/nm2955582/?ref_=fn_al_nm_1


The Only Eastern Redwood Forest in America




"Nuke my 'nanners, will you?!"

Snarkie

Armadillos carry leprosy, which is why you almost never see one stuffed and mounted. Most taxidermists won't touch them (and I don't blame them) because of that.

__________________
Doug (D.A. Hänks) http://www.imdb.com/name/nm2955582/?ref_=fn_al_nm_1


The Only Eastern Redwood Forest in America




"Nuke my 'nanners, will you?!"

AaronTT

I would not use concrete for wooden posts, even treated pine which is weak because its a soft wood and will rot despite hearing the contrary. The concrete draws water to the post, and eventually weakens it till it breaks. I have seen this many times, which is why I won't use treated pine. Its junk wood. The cheap fence posts to get that will last for years is cypress. I am the "do it right the first time" type of guy, rather than save temporarily, then forced to redo years later at a higher cost.

edwmax

Another way to do this is to use round cardboard form (Sono tube ... available at Lowes). push it down as you dig the hole from within the tube; and pull it out as you fill the hole. .... Don't fill the hole then try to pull out the tube. ... In sand you could use a post driver (a round metal weighted metal tube; available at Tractor Supply & Lowes) to drive a pointed wooden post or a metal post into the ground. Just put it over the top of the post; then lift and drop; repeat until proper depth is reached. No hole to dig.



I would not use concrete around the post (wood or metal). As a rule of thumb, the post depth should be 1/3rd the length above the ground. In sand the 30" depth minimum is about right as stated above. .... Just set one post with at 30" depth and check to see how stable it is after filling and compacting.



Standard treated 4" wooden fence post (even pine) should last a long time in sand as water is drained away.






i don't know why I answered this .... as Kat hasn't logged on to the form for a while now.

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AaronTT

Treated pine here will last 10 years, but that's about it, you will begin to replace each piece, been there done that. However, cypress posts will last 4 to 5+ times that. Problem is inflation is a mother, and you might not have the money for repairs in the future, if you choose the treated pine. None of us knows our future, or if we will have the funds.That why I now use cypress. Of course there is even better, such as black locust wood, or if you want to spend to get the best get green heart posts. Those options will outlive your children, but cypress is easier and much cheaper to get here in Florida. Some of these fencing companies take advantage of people, giving them the cheaper, treated pine, knowing full well it will only last 10 years(if your lucky), so they can get the repeat business. Some are just ignorant. I am born and raised in Florida, know the back country, been there done that and know what works and what does not. I dont know it all, but I have learned a thing or 2. Florida wood is highly prone to rot, fungus, and ants and termites. If you want to build something to last, you have to use your head and do some research and choose carefully. I am not a know it all jerk, but I do like to educate people how to build stuff to last and save you big dollars down the road.
Btw, look at the statistics on both pine, greenheart and black locust wood. The later 2 have really dense wood that is highly resistant to termites, and rot proof. It's such a strong hard wood, it would take a serious tornado to break these wood types. Pine is a really soft wood, and even treated
becomes prone to decay after just a few years, unless constantly maintained with stains and such which is a pain in the rear. Cypress is really unique because technically it's a soft wood too. However, unlike pine, it contains oils in it known for resisting rot and decay, as well as deterring termites and ants, and known for being low maintenance. Lots of science in the choices of wood and uses. What can I say, I am a cheapskate, but will spend if I can and save in the long run too. I just hate to spend money and do the work, to be stuck doing the same job 10 years later. I'd rather spend a little bit more, get the right materials and never have to do the job EVER again, unless acts of God happen lol.

Snarkie

Black locust is the best I know of. It was always used here in Appalachia as the sleepers and first course in log cabins. Oh wait! Osage Orange! That is the most rot resistant wood known to Mankind. Kind of spindly though, but perfect for fence posts.

__________________
Doug (D.A. Hänks) http://www.imdb.com/name/nm2955582/?ref_=fn_al_nm_1


The Only Eastern Redwood Forest in America




"Nuke my 'nanners, will you?!"

AaronTT

Yeah, black locust wood is good stuff, wish I could get it cheap. Did you know, many of those older, long lasting electrical poles holding power lines are made of black locust? Damn near lasts forever. Also, railroad ties are made mostly of locust wood in the U.S, and for a reason. I can get old railroad ties, super good quality and longevity, but pricey.