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| Banana Plant Soil, Additives, and Fertilizer This forum is an area where you may discuss the soil to grow banana plants in, as well as soil additives such as teas, composts, manures, fertilizers and related topics. |
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#41 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Availability of nutrients as a function of pH:
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#42 (permalink) |
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Have any of you heard of multiple pH zones in container or field applications?
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#43 (permalink) |
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Not uncommon in field (row) crops. Also occurring in southern California orchards where blueberries are being inserted (need pH ~= 5.5).
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#44 (permalink) |
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Nanner Time!
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Sweet...thanks for the info and great chart, Richard!
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#45 (permalink) |
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I've been kicking this idea around for a while. I read about some growers who potted with layers or sections of different media.
I also saw some 'hybrid' applications where a leader from a tomato plant and limbs from trees were laid over and rooted into seperate pots (air layered, but never severed ) or into hydroponics to feed the main plant (This obviously wouldn't work with bananas). |
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#46 (permalink) |
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It took som searching, but I found a page on this:
BroadrOOt.com--The MultirOOt Report (Chapter 1) Interesting stuff. |
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#47 (permalink) |
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The whole idea about planting tomatoes deeper came about because the starts were raised in hot houses, then sold to outdoor gardeners. In this situation the starts must be planted deeper because they are too weak to take the non-hothouse environment.
Now I guess that planting deeper as the article suggests would help in situations where growing area is limited. Certainly it is true for tomatoes that crop production is proportional to root volume. When customers want to grow a standard tomato in a pot I always recommend 1 plant in a 25 gallon pot. They look at me like I'm crazy, but after they try it and get 200-300 lbs of tomatoes per plant they start to understand. When I plant tomatoes in my garden, they are 6-foot apart on center and the ground is heavily mulched so the roots can go deep and wide. 300 lbs per plant is typical.
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#48 (permalink) |
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But this article is more about bringing in a different type of soil, mounding it up near an existing plant, and growing the plant in two pH's instead of one to influence a broader spectrum of nutrient uptake.
BroadrOOt.com--The MultirOOt Report (Chapter 2) |
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#49 (permalink) |
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Oops o.k., in chapter one they were focused on root volume. Looking at the cation availability chart, I guess they are concerned with more input of Boron and Manganese?
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#50 (permalink) |
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Their technique wouldn't work with bananas, but I wonder about adding different mediums in one container to get separate pH zones?
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#51 (permalink) |
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You could do it by radial distribution. However, the question is: why bother? IF the plants would benefit from more uptake of a certain segment of minerals, THEN it would be worth doing. I'm not aware of this being the case with bananas.
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#52 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Consider yourself lucky that the labels and instructions are in English. I'm sure you will find fert with the NPK numbers on the pack. If they do in Thailand, they'll do it in Pommieland. I have to wait for my long-haired dictionary to turn up and read the dosage / instructions for me. ![]() |
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#53 (permalink) |
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Looked again today Troppo and can confirm they do not give the information needed.
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#54 (permalink) |
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As posted earlier, your soil pH is currently 4.0. This is very acidic. The chicken pellets are also acidic, so adding them at this time is not recommended. Instead, you need to raise the pH of your soil to about 6.5 with something slightly alkaline. One approach would be to add a teaspoon of baking soda to each gallon of water for the next few weeks. Check the pH a few days after watering the plant.
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#55 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the info Richard
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