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Banana Plant Soil, Additives, and Fertilizer This forum is an area where you may discuss the soil to grow banana plants in, as well as soil additives such as teas, composts, manures, fertilizers and related topics.


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Old 04-06-2019, 11:30 AM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

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Originally Posted by PR-Giants View Post
We use tons of biochar, it's lightweight, absorbent, and easily breaks with your hands.



https://www.biofuelsdigest.com/bdige...arbon-markets/

First, let’s explain the basic difference between THREE materials: activated carbon, charcoal and biochar. Activated carbon, also known as activated charcoal and several other ‘active/activated source-material’ names, all come down to the implication of the modifier ìactivatedî. When used in conjunction with adsorbents, ‘activated’ refers to a small set of processing techniques that increase the internal microporosity of the original carbon-rich source material. All ‘activation’ processes remove individual carbon atoms and create individual nooks and crannies in the carbon-rich material, which are the adsorption sites. The key to activated carbon is that it is optimized for specific adsorption application (water, vapor, certain adsorbates, etc.) and the adsorption capacity is packed into as dense a material as possible to minimize the volume of adsorbent necessary. In the end, activated carbon is an adsorbent ñ intended to remove something, typically organic compounds, from either vapor or liquid streams.

Biochar vs charcoal

In contrast, Charcoal is a fuel that is used for cooking and other heat generating applications and created by heating biomass, typically wood, under conditions of limited oxygen. In general, charcoal burns hotter and with less smoke than the starting biomass, and also can convert mineral ores to the corresponding metals, inspiring a series of ages: bronze, iron, etc.

Biochar is made in the same manner as charcoal, but it is intended for utilization as an adsorbent and/or a soil amendment. Basically, the key is the end use of the material. It is charcoal if it is intended to be used as a fuel; hence it is manufactured with optimal fuel properties. In contrast, if the intended use is adsorption or as a soil amendment, then it is manufactured to a different set of properties and labeled biochar. As a result, biochar shares properties with activated carbon and charcoal, but has a few unique features that distinguish it from both.

While biochar shares adsorption properties with activated carbon, it also exhibits a significant amount of ion exchange capacity, a property that is minimal or absent in traditional activated carbons. The ion exchange property, which is usually measured and reported as ‘cation exchange capacity’, is due to residual carboxylic acid functionalities on the biochar graphitic backbone. Since activation removes any residual side chain aliphatic groups, activated carbons have reduced ionic interactions.

The other big differences between biochar and activated carbons are bulk density and mechanical hardness. Activated carbon is intended for applications where packing as much adsorption capacity into a fixed volume is paramount, like gas masks and fixed-bed adsorbers. In addition, activated carbon can be regenerated and reused in many applications, so mechanical hardness (also known as the lack of friability) allows the carbon to be moved without falling apart or breaking down in particle size.

If one combines the lower adsorption per unit weight of biochar with the lower bulk density, the resulting adsorption capacity on a volume basis is 1/6th to 1/12th that of high quality activated carbons. For this reason, biochar is typically used in applications where the material is spread out on the ground, so low density is not a disadvantage. In fact, in soil applications, where an important property is the ability to capture excess precipitation and retain it, the low density of biochar translates into additional voids that can fill when it rains.

Unique properties

Biochar is a material that is preferred when several of its unique properties can be exploited in the same application. The unique properties of biochar include low density (providing additional voidage and aeration in the soil), significant adsorption and cation exchange capacity, and the ability to promote living microbiology in the soil, enhancing the ìSoil Food Webî. Combining these properties leads to a predictable selection criteria for when to consider activated carbons versus biochar.
Do you have empirical proof that biochar improves the growth of plants? I would like to see a side by side comparison of plants grown in soil or potting media with biochar versus perlite because I am not going to use biochar based on theory alone.
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Old 04-06-2019, 12:15 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

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Do you have empirical proof that biochar improves the growth of plants? I would like to see a side by side comparison of plants grown in soil or potting media with biochar versus perlite because I am not going to use biochar based on theory alone.

We use it for it's "low density (providing additional voidage and aeration in the soil), significant adsorption and cation exchange capacity, and the ability to promote living microbiology in the soil"

And we don't use any chemical fertilizers, just top mulch and biochar.

Here's a bunch that we recently harvested, it's from the first dwarf Bluggoe we grew and up until then I had thought all Bluggoe produce small bunches. I was surprised when it weighed in at more than three times the average bunch size of our local USDA Tropical Research Station and they are the comparison we use.



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Old 04-06-2019, 12:37 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

We grow a lot of large bunches because we want to know what is the minimum we need to do to produce acceptable size bunches.

These bunches are either the first plant crop or the first ratoon crop of some cultivars the local USDA Tropical Research Station gave us to evaluate.



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Old 04-12-2019, 06:21 PM   #24 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

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We grow a lot of large bunches because we want to know what is the minimum we need to do to produce acceptable size bunches.

These bunches are either the first plant crop or the first ratoon crop of some cultivars the local USDA Tropical Research Station gave us to evaluate.



Do you use compost teas? Is the biochar innoculated with nutrients prior to soil application? I'm familiar with biochar, so happy to hear it has a place on this forum! Thanks for putting some of your experiences with it out there. Biochar is pretty often conflated with charcoal briquettes! Not the same!
Much love.
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Old 04-26-2019, 11:55 AM   #25 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

So what happened with this thread? Two Questions: the difference between biochar and activated was described, but not biochar and charcoal (conflicting notes as one line said they were the same, another suggested there were differences). We have large quantities of charcoal left over from disposal of land clearing debris - often thought of the bio-char in the Amazon and the stories about the wonders it did down there.
BUT have no idea as to how much to use of it or what best to mix it with. Our native soils are heavy clay. As we have access to unlimited (500,000 tons) amounts of very aged (over ten years) compost (The largest compost facility in the US), we can "make" whatever we want. We use maybe 2000 tons of this compost a year. we also have access to almost unlimited amounts of aged street sand (sand swept up from streets and then allowed to sit for more than a year, generally three or four, in shallow beds 3 feet deep to "rinse" it should there be anything detrimental in it. We use maybe 200 tons a year of it and plants seem to love it - do not use on vegetable or any edible crops as fear there may be lead contamination (tests do not show it, but as it comes from all over, we do not test every batch due to cost - rather use it on plants where it does not matter.).
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Old 05-24-2021, 08:06 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

Resurrecting this thread because I now know what I'm doing, and made 5 gallons of it this year. Currently activating/charging in a plastic wheelbarrow. I bought a bag of lump charcoal (I know the difference between lump and briquettes now, LOL) as well as raking some from the fire pile and sifting the ashes, which will go into the garden later on, although I used some already.

I reduced the char down to manageable sized pieces in a frying pan with a sledge hammer. That then went into the blender in small amounts. I use the blender specifically for charcoal and eggshells. Do NOT use the kitchen blender unless you are single or wish to become so again. You might buy one at Goodwill or something to use for this. I got a new Oster at Walmart for only twenty bucks. I ended up with a 5 gallon pail of powder and pencil eraser-sized chips. If you are using stuff from the burn pile, make sure you check it for stones and nails. I did, but still got some interesting sparks every now and then.

I mixed in some sulphur, sugar and flour for an extra microbial boost, and then added five gallons of urine to activate it. For most people this might not be an efficient or even feasible method, but since I produce 2-3 gallons of the stuff a day, it works well for me. I kept adding until it was absorbed, then did it again. Now, I'm adding a gallon or so a week to replace what has evaporated or may still absorb.

Finally, keep it moist but not saturated, to mix in with your soil. Don't let it dry out, and don't seal it in an airtight container or the microbes will die off. The larger the pieces, the longer it will last, but at lower output rates. The small stuff and powder will only last a season or two but will put out like a young Madonna looking for a recording gig.
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Old 05-24-2021, 08:14 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

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Originally Posted by pjkfarm View Post
BUT have no idea as to how much to use of it or what best to mix it with.
I've heard up to 20%, but I wouldn't go over 5% to be safe. I'm using a Dixie cup per cubic foot in raised beds. I'm also mixing in grass compost and wood humus, along with some stuff I found on the side of the road at the bottom of a hill in a curve. It stays wet, and it's a mix of street sand and years of oak leaves run over and broken down. It's full of earthworms, and when I put the shovel to it, it smelled like a Louisiana swamp.

Edit: I read on a Permies thread that a commercial farmer uses 14,000 pounds per acre at a half inch deep and tills it in. Probably a better comparison for your situation.
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Old 05-24-2021, 07:31 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Smile Re: DIY Biochar

Put as much in as you want......

Charcoal is an benign amendment....

It becomes awesome when you charge it before you mix it in your soil.
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Old 05-24-2021, 07:33 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

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ME Too...

Lump is good and HOT and will put a nice fast wanted char on a piece of beef.
Making me hungry just typing it

However for the Backyard Gardner....
Go to the Store and buy a bag of Lump Charcoal any brand will do.
Lay the lump charcoal on the driveway and bust it up in small pieces.

Mix a alittle Espoma Organic Garden Fertilizer or another product of your choice in the charcoal bits . Lightly wet it the mix and let sit for a bit... mix well.
And now you can put it in your favorite mix.
Each piece of charcoal will now be an oasis of nutrients for your plants.
Bump!!


How to bust up your charcoal for your soilless mix

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Old 05-24-2021, 08:52 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

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Originally Posted by pjkfarm View Post
So what happened with this thread? Two Questions: the difference between biochar and activated was described, but not biochar and charcoal (conflicting notes as one line said they were the same, another suggested there were differences). We have large quantities of charcoal left over from disposal of land clearing debris - often thought of the bio-char in the Amazon and the stories about the wonders it did down there.
Biochar/horticultural charcoal has a high cation ratio which makes it good for horticulture while lump charcoal has a much lower cation ratio. Burning most of the fuel out of the lump charcoal will raise it's cation ratio. We use an immense amount of biochar for our plants and use lump charcoal for grilling.
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Old 05-24-2021, 09:36 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

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Do you have empirical proof that biochar improves the growth of plants? I would like to see a side by side comparison of plants grown in soil or potting media with biochar versus perlite because I am not going to use biochar based on theory alone.
Biochar/horticultural charcoal has a high cation ratio

Perlite has a cation ratio of zero

Moisture is also important for plants and biochar/horticultural charcoal holds much more moisture than perlite and lump charcoal holds very little.
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Old 05-24-2021, 09:57 PM   #32 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

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Biochar/horticultural charcoal has a high cation ratio

Perlite has a cation ratio of zero

Moisture is also important for plants and biochar/horticultural charcoal holds much more moisture than perlite and lump charcoal holds very little.
Those are theoretical reasons to use biochar, not empirical. Why don't you just perform an experiment that shows that biochar is better? Just plant two identical plants in pots, one with biochar and one with perlite and let the plants grow. It doesn't even have to be bananas.
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Old 05-25-2021, 06:19 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

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Why don't you just perform an experiment that shows that biochar is better? Just plant two identical plants in pots, one with biochar and one with perlite and let the plants grow. It doesn't even have to be bananas.
They say a picture is worth a thousand words. I added a little bit to this bed earlier this year, along with some other odds and ends. I learned the secret of Terra Preta years ago while creating soil for my dawn redwoods, and biochar is a major contributor to it.

Perlite is essentially inert; it's like puffy popcorn sand that allows drainage, but charcoal not only allows that space, it is very absorbent. 1 gram of the stuff has the same surface area of several football fields. 5 gallons of char eventually absorbed 6 gallons of urine. I daresay that 5 gallons of Perlite might absorb less than a half gallon if that; mostly due to surface tension.

Not trying to inject myself into someone else's argument, but this is my experience with biochar. In addition to the 20" leaves on the pumpkins (usually around 6-8"), even the tomato to the left has 6" leaves according to the ruler, and in a few weeks, you'll see the harvest as it begins to ripen. I've never had this many maters or cukes on the vine, and my parsley is close to two feet tall.

BTW, that's a steel ruler that leaf is supporting. Think they grow 'em big in Texas? Texas ain't got nuthin' on North Carolina!


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Old 05-26-2021, 01:54 PM   #34 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

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They say a picture is worth a thousand words. I added a little bit to this bed earlier this year, along with some other odds and ends. I learned the secret of Terra Preta years ago while creating soil for my dawn redwoods, and biochar is a major contributor to it.

Perlite is essentially inert; it's like puffy popcorn sand that allows drainage, but charcoal not only allows that space, it is very absorbent. 1 gram of the stuff has the same surface area of several football fields. 5 gallons of char eventually absorbed 6 gallons of urine. I daresay that 5 gallons of Perlite might absorb less than a half gallon if that; mostly due to surface tension.

Not trying to inject myself into someone else's argument, but this is my experience with biochar. In addition to the 20" leaves on the pumpkins (usually around 6-8"), even the tomato to the left has 6" leaves according to the ruler, and in a few weeks, you'll see the harvest as it begins to ripen. I've never had this many maters or cukes on the vine, and my parsley is close to two feet tall.

BTW, that's a steel ruler that leaf is supporting. Think they grow 'em big in Texas? Texas ain't got nuthin' on North Carolina!


North Carolina is home to the Venus Flytrap.
South Carolina is home to the Irish Travelers (a group of con artists).
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Old 05-31-2021, 05:17 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Smile Re: DIY Biochar

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Its grill season again.
During the holidays lump griling charcoal is on sale at the big box stores

Pick up a bag and pound it to small pieces to make your inexpensive
soil conditioners.

A little goes a long way and it lasts forever plus your soilless mix or soil will benefit greatly.
Bump..
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Old 05-31-2021, 05:18 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Smile Re: DIY Biochar

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Originally Posted by cincinnana View Post
ME Too...

Lump is good and HOT and will put a nice fast wanted char on a piece of beef.
Making me hungry just typing it

However for the Backyard Gardner....
Go to the Store and buy a bag of Lump Charcoal any brand will do.
Lay the lump charcoal on the driveway and bust it up in small pieces.

Mix a alittle Espoma Organic Garden Fertilizer or another product of your choice in the charcoal bits . Lightly wet it the mix and let sit for a bit... mix well.
And now you can put it in your favorite mix.
Each piece of charcoal will now be an oasis of nutrients for your plants.
bump!!!
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Old 06-01-2021, 06:47 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

Okay Mike, I'll bite...

Perlite is essentially rock popcorn and can't retain moisture. Good for drainage, but that's it. Lump charcoal is hydrophobic and will actually shed water like a dry sponge. Biochar has been inoculated and dampened, and will absorb water and nutrients like a damp sponge.

With what he said, do you disagree?
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Old 06-01-2021, 07:00 PM   #38 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: DIY Biochar

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snarkie View Post
They say a picture is worth a thousand words. I added a little bit to this bed earlier this year, along with some other odds and ends. I learned the secret of Terra Preta years ago while creating soil for my dawn redwoods, and biochar is a major contributor to it.

Perlite is essentially inert; it's like puffy popcorn sand that allows drainage, but charcoal not only allows that space, it is very absorbent. 1 gram of the stuff has the same surface area of several football fields. 5 gallons of char eventually absorbed 6 gallons of urine. I daresay that 5 gallons of Perlite might absorb less than a half gallon if that; mostly due to surface tension.

Not trying to inject myself into someone else's argument, but this is my experience with biochar. In addition to the 20" leaves on the pumpkins (usually around 6-8"), even the tomato to the left has 6" leaves according to the ruler, and in a few weeks, you'll see the harvest as it begins to ripen. I've never had this many maters or cukes on the vine, and my parsley is close to two feet tall.

BTW, that's a steel ruler that leaf is supporting. Think they grow 'em big in Texas? Texas ain't got nuthin' on North Carolina!


Do you realize that World record tomatoes were grown without biochar in Alabama by Charles Wilber? He used a special kudzu compost. There is no known theoretical explanation for his success.

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Old 06-01-2021, 07:15 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Smile Re: DIY Biochar

Lump charcoal refined(broken up to smaller pieces) to biochar size can hold a fair amount moisture.
Biochar is lump charcoal crushed and repurposed for growing plants.
The smaller the charcoal particle size the more moisture it will hold.
The larger size of the charcoal the the less moisture it will hold.


Same with perlite.
The smaller the particle size the more moisture it will hold.
And the larger particle size the less moisture it will hold.
Perlite is a fantastic medium for hydroponics .

Both materials mentioned above will hold up to 40% +moisture and nutrients for your plants.

The op in the first post is spot on ...how to make lump/biochar.
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Old 06-01-2021, 07:25 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Smile Re: DIY Biochar

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snarkie View Post
Okay Mike, I'll bite...

Perlite is essentially rock popcorn and can't retain moisture. Good for drainage, but that's it. Lump charcoal is hydrophobic and will actually shed water like a dry sponge. Biochar has been inoculated and dampened, and will absorb water and nutrients like a damp sponge.

With what he said, do you disagree?
Sure we can chat...

I use all three materials that you mentioned.
I make my own biochar like you by soaking(charging) the broken up store bought lump charcoal pieces in a slurry of organic ferts.
Same charging process with the medium perlite I use.

I choose lump because it is already made and in a bag.

I could choose to do a burn pit and make my own ....So what is the difference between what is in the bag and what is left in the pit?
Something more controlled and scientific a better product?

The end result is whatever you want to call it.


A quick internet read keywords/"water retention of perlite/crushed charcoal/lump charcoal will give a better understanding of just how much moisture these substances are able to absorb and release.
Another Youtube search "how to make biochar/charcoal " will further help forum members understand the process.
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