Yellowing/Browning on end of leaves on seedling
 

Hi all, please see pic below. The end of the leaves of my seedling are turning brown/yellow. The plant seems otherwise healthy and is growing ok.

Any advice? Light source too strong? Humidity too high/low?

Re: Yellowing/Browning on end of leaves on seedling
 

I have absolutely no experience with cool climate indoor growing.
But, from what I see, the color of the leaf is quite light.
If anything the plant could use more light.
My suspicion is that the drying of the leaf tip is due to low humidity in an indoor environment.

It is mid March.
But, I assume you are far enough north that it is too soon to put them outdoors yet.
If I'm right, that's what'll fix the problem

Re: Yellowing/Browning on end of leaves on seedling
 

I live in the south of the UK and it's 5.c in the day here so a bit too cold. I don't think light is a problem as it's under a light source. I'll try to increase humidity

Re: Yellowing/Browning on end of leaves on seedling
 

Try using a space heater. Tropicals need warmth as well as light. Equally important!

Re: Yellowing/Browning on end of leaves on seedling
 

I lied when I said that I had no experience with indoor growing.
What I meant was, no experience with growing bananas indoors.

Back in the '70s while living in the U.S. Pacific Northwest on the West side of the mtns. in areas with up to 250 in/yr [635 cm/yr] precip, I grew a lot of spare-room pot.
In Alaska where daylight ranged from 19-1/2 hrs in the summer to 4-1/2 hrs in the winter, and outdoor temps could go as low as -25°F [-32°C].
I grew upwards of 75 orchids in my living room for over 15 years.
I do know and understand the significance of light, humidity and temperature when seriously growing indoors.

I now live on the windward side of BI @ 750' of elevation.
Our winter temps range from as low as 56°F [usually about 60 to 63°F] to the upper 70s°F.
If our winter was a little warmer they would be happier.
But, I still get fruit ripening throughout the year.

Light and humidity are the greatest problems to overcome.
Even if you invest in a very expensive lighting system, you will unlikely be able to give your indoor plants as much light, or quality of light as they could get from being outdoors exposed to the sun.
Bananas do need a lot of nutrients and light to do as well as they are capable of.

In house humidity is almost always low and can be very stressful on tropical plants originating from high humidity environments, such as orchids and bananas.

Most winter household temperatures ranging from 65°F to 72°F [18°C to22°C] are adequate for housing bananas indoors for the winter.

You can give them enough light to keep them reasonably healthy and alive.
But, they will not thrive until being acclimated to exposure to the sun.

Humidity is always a problem when growing indoors.
Virtually every morning our outdoor humidity reaches 96 to 100% giving heavy morning dew almost every morning, even during the no rain drought periods.
During the day it will drop as low as 60%.

In home humidity can run at 20% and lower.
When you get zapped from walking across the floor, your humidity is very, very low.
I have used humidifiers.
They can eliminate getting zapped.
But, if they raised the humidity high enough to make orchids and bananas happy, you'd have mildew growing throughout the house.

Growing indoors is a trade off, trying to do the best you can under the circumstances you have to work with.