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Transplant Shock
Hey all,
I recently moved, and decided to plant some of my larger bananas in the yard. Two dwarf Namwahs, and a Pisang Ceylon. The Namwahs were idle for about a week and a half. They have since formed new leaves. My P.C. has been in the ground for 3 weeks, and was planted with a "just visible" cigar. It since then has grown about 6 inches, and has stopped. No sign of bug damage to the stem. It's been 95F-105F on average in my area, and I've watered/misted every day. What are your experiences with transplant shock times? Thanks! |
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For me 30+ days for a somewhat bare root plant with few leaves in zone 5/6. Tropical growers with best conditions will have less than that, everything grows better,bigger and faster. Bare root/no root plants with a cut p-stem which I had received last fall took 7 months to establish under lights and lower indoor temps, but now moved outdoors the plants are growing well. The more the roots are disturbed the longer it takes for the plant to recover. These plants develop the foundation roots first and then the foiliage. I also use an organic fertilizers when doing a repot or transplant, but once the plant is established I will go back to regular fertilizers. The short answer is .....way to long:bananas_b |
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The Pisang Ceylon pushed it's cigar up about 2-1/2" since I checked this morning!
So, for future reference if anyone searches this topic, it was about 3-1/2 weeks from transplant in very hot and dry weather- zero shade. As stated above, experiences will differ. |
Re: Transplant Shock
Folded leaves indicate the plant has stopped growing. It is a self preservation mode to conserve water within the plant.
This occurs for 2 reasons: 1) Lack of water due to the roots inability to take up water from the soil (transplant shock) or lax of water ... aka: DRY soil. 2) High Heat a) At less than 100 to 105 deg F 'air temperature' this is a combination of sufficient available water for the plant & heat. b) Radiant Heat from the bright Sun can cause the surface temp of the plant leaves to be 20 or 30 deg F higher than the air temp. It is known that at approx 115 -120 deg F the plant leaves will fold down and the plant go into a self preservation mode regardless of availability of water in the soil. This is to protect the corm should the pstem be unable to recover after an extended period of high heat. For the past month in the Southeast, radiant heat of the sun has been our problem along with soil water evaporation. This is the reason I've set up a sprinkler on my small banana patch (30 or 40 plants). The sprinkler water directly cooled the plant leaves and replaced the lost soil water. I was running the sprinkler 3 times a day for a couple of hours each time. 'Radiant heat' is also the reason I recommend that banana plant to be plant in locations to receive afternoon shade from the bright sun. ... Also, banana plants are not solitary plants and should be planted in groups so the plants can shade each other and the canopy to shade the pups. @zfallon84 ... Set up temporary shade to protect the plants from the bright sun. Our air temps have not been high enough to cause the folded leaves if the plants have water. |
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Hummm ... still may be a problem. The heat from the house could be causing the 'AIR' temp around the plant to be very high and the leaves to fold. So even temp shading may not help much. ... Try the shading and a light misting. If the plant doesn't improve then relocate it to a cooler area. |
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We plan to be in this home for 2-3 years. So, I will probably rig up a temporary watering system. I’ve got a large tripod sprinkler for the grass in the middle of the yard. But, My bananas are in all different spots (9a growing experiments).
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