mskitty38583

miss cookie, if you use dormant cuttings the sap has ran out of the branch. me, i personally would use the 'live' branches. thats the only way i have tried it, but hey whos to say it wont work? give it a try, you might be surprised. logos i never thought about using junipers. i have 3 types in my yard...i might have to wack a few branches off and try it. my daughter wanted to try bonzi, junipers are great trees for that. thank you for the info. oh christmas tree, oh christmas tree, come let me shave a branch or two off thee...

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CookieCows

My husband would think I was a God if I were to make baby junipers out of his various bushes. I don't care much for them but he loves them all. I've got to find that Canadian Spagnum Moss. I think that's the route I want to try if it's readily available. I wish it was spring. I don't know if I'll be able to wait. I figured the dormat branch would be a "no-go" but it's been on my mind for days now and when I saw someone else ask I just jumped on it! I had no idea that the sap left the branch in winter.

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formontcalamus

When I first came to Puerto Rico three years ago I noticed that every house had in its front yard a Plumeria tree, many Crotons and another bush I did not know untill one day got out of truck walked up close and said to a friend . . . my god its a Crape Myrtle !

They are all over the Island. They do not go dormant, they keep on growing full foliage all year round !! So I recently rooted cuttings for my wifes garden (in Spagnum). If you have a warm spell up there, cut some branches of Crape myrtle and you may have a head start on spring planting.

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mskitty38583

the sap leave the dedicious trees, let me clarify myself. i dont believe it leaves the evergreen, well because their evergreen. i have been wanting to try this w/ my pink dogwoods for a while now, just didnt have the gutts to wack a branch off a dogwood! thats almost like a mortal sin.(flowering tree of virginia) so ive been post poning that. do you think if your hubby cut the branches for you that hed be ok w/ it? tell him its to make more of them...dont know if that will work you could try...

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mskitty38583

logos, i have a pink crepe myrtle, and a white. they have already gone dormant. my yellow star jasmine got hit with a freeze a few days ago and then it warmed up. now i have buds on the jasmine and im gonna have to pull them off before they get mushy. your lucky to live where you do and have a minimum winter. so spring i will have to remove the sucker branches and try to root them. these suckers have roots( baby tiny roots) so ill just probably plant them. any advise for the tiny baby rooted crepe mertles? the roots are real little.

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Last edited by mskitty38583 : 12-25-2007 at 12:34 AM. Reason: add

inkcube

rooting woody plants is always a challenge. typically, stem cuttings of tree species tend to be difficult to root, however, cuttings from trees such as crape myrtles, some elms, and birches can be rooted. a greenhouse is not necessary for successful propagation by stem cuttings; however, maintaining high humidity around the cutting is critical.

there are four main types of stem cuttings; herbaceous, softwood, semi-hardwood, and hardwood. these terms reflect the growth stage of the stock plant, which is one of the most important factors influencing whether or not cuttings will root. what you want to root and how easy it will root is based on the wood type, for example, crape myrtle you should use semi-hardwood and ginkgo use softwood.

-herbaceous cuttings are non-woody, herbaceous plants such as coleus, chrysanthemums, and dahlia
-softwood cuttings are taken from soft, succulent, new growth of woody plants, just as it begins to harden (mature)
-semi-hardwood cuttings are usually prepared from partially mature wood of the current season’s growth, just after a flush of growth
-hardwood cuttings are taken from dormant, mature stems in late fall, winter, or early spring

cuttings generally should consist of the current or past season’s growth, avoid material with flower buds if possible - remove any flowers and flower buds when preparing cuttings so the cutting’s energy can go to producing new roots instead of flowers. remove the leaves from the lower one-third to one-half of the cutting, on large-leafed plants, the remaining leaves may be cut in half to reduce water loss & conserve space. always take cuttings from healthy, disease-free plants, preferably from the upper part of the plant. treating cuttings with root-promoting compounds, there are commercial products made especially for rooting woody cuttings and contain a higher percentage of hormone.

rooting will vary with the type of cutting, the species being rooted, and environmental conditions. conifers generally require more time than decidious broadleaf plants. late fall or early winter is a good time to root conifers, i have had great luck with pines and ginkgo taking my cuttings in the fall.

newly rooted cuttings should not be transplanted directly into your landscape, instead, transfer them into containers or a bed - growing them to a larger size before transplanting to your permanent location will greatly increase the chances for survival.

bigdog, if you take a cutting from your pine you will most likely ruin the shape - cause multiple leaders. if this was to be a stock plant then that would not matter but in your yard it might look bad. take your cuttings in the fall, try semi-hardwood & hardwood (i don't have a reference for that species)

mskitty38583

thank you inkcube. that was interesting and very informative. my concern w/ trying this on a pink dogwood is if it will revert back to what it was grafted with. im not even sure what kind of stock they graft pink dogwoods to. do they use the white dogwood or is it an entirely different species?

thank you logos, you guys are very good at this stuff. it sets my mind a little more at ease trying to decide what type of tree i want to root.and it gives me more options on how to root them.

my mom has some miniture cherry 'bushes' might have to try with those too...and as for the juniper....lets just see how that one goes.

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bigdog

Inkcube, it isn't really actually a pine at all. It is Wollemia nobilis, and is in the Araucariaceae (sp?) family. There isn't much information out about how to propagate it because they don't want you to, lol. The leader I would be removing is one of three, and isn't the main leader. You can prune the leader off on these and they will grow a new one. Oh, and yes, I am using it as a stock plant.

I think I just found my answer though. I looked in my Plant Propagation, Principles and Practices, (Hartmann and Kester), and they say to use semi-hardwood cuttings for Araucaria species. I assume it would be the same for Wollemia.

inkcube

a cutting from a dogwood would be what you see, the graft would be down near the root crown - you should be able to see a collar-like scar at the soil line. any root suckers you get would be from the root stock. so if you take a stem cutting it will be what you normally see, a pink dogwood.

mskitty38583

i know where they grafted it at, i found it the other day....wahoo. i thought i could do it that way,i was just kinda of iffy about cutting the tree.. (i have never tried to root a dogwood) that is great!! thank you very much for your help. if its nice tomorrow i may snag 2 branches( 50-50% of sucess when you cut two) and ill take some of my creeping juniper and try that too.

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formontcalamus

Dear Incube, metaphysically wrinkle free . . . I appreciate your more botanical info and that you have corrected me twice ! I had no idea that Pine species could be rooted from cuttings. If so, I'm sure it's difficult and requires controled conditions that most of us may not be able to provide or have the pacience to do. If we could combine our tallents, perhaps we could root cuttings of Peach, Apple, Mango, Alvacado, and make a fortune without grafting !! I tried to root a Mango cultivar once and got all excited when it calloused but it refused to root.

Do you have any comments on rooting Italian Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens). I have a customer that bugs me to do liners.

Your ID (about you) is empty. Please offer info on signature block (userCP - upper left). What is/was your profession, where are you located ? Anything to create an identity would make communication more meaningfull !

Logos Formont Calamus / Nurseryman / Puerto Rico

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formontcalamus

BIG DOG . . . Thats not fair, you said it was a Pine. "Australian Pines" are best grown from seed (Araucarias). Which reminds me . . . lateral-horizontal branches of plants that are prized for thier horizontal character will not come true from such cuttings. They will eventually grow in radical shape. Its a biology-DNA problem that mabe Inkcube can help us with ?

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mskitty38583

i love the way that inkcube gives us defined(scientific terms) . i love the way logos gives us undefinded( down to earth terms) if we could role the two of you into one, i would live at yalls greenhouse!! you guys tickle me so much. you guys are the greatest!!! what one dosent add the other does, and you two compliment eachother well. and you make this whole rooting plants and cutting thread a hoot! just thought yall should know that. i realy appriciate all the knowledge that you two impart to us. it is helpful!

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bigdog

Let me try to be more clear here...

The common name is Wollemi Pine.

The botanical name is Wollemia Nobilis.

It is not actually a pine, but rather in the Araucariaceae family.

I'm not looking to take a branch cutting. There are three (3) leaders on this tree, and I'm wanting to try and root one of them. On the leader that I want to root, there are three lateral branches very close to the apical meristem, and I'm wondering if I should just cut them back all the way to the main leader, partway, or leave them as is.

formontcalamus

Big Dog . . . I hope Inkcube buts in to help you. I cannot find any reference to Wollemi nobilis I know of several Araucarias , but not that one. If taking a cutting will not disturbe the character of the plant (or its style of groth), I would go ahead and try.

Something I have learned over the years . . . rooting in a dark greenhouse or under 50% + shade cloth causes more root rot than situations with brighter light. Bright lite, even morning Sun in winter with high humidity is very best !! Many commercial nurseries experience big losses not knowing thier greenhouses are just too dark. They think that stopping transpiration helps rooting. Without transpiration cuttings will not root, mostly rot. All this seams obvious.

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CookieCows

I'm heading to Lowes in about an hour and I know they don't have Canadian Spagnum Moss but I'm sure they have another brand of spagnum moss so any brand is ok as long as that's what it is? I want to take afew branches off of one of the junipers today and give it a try. I have a jar of that rooting powder and will stick it in that first I guess. I'm excited.. I hope it roots but if not I'll wait and try it again in summer.

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CookieCows

To cut a snip from a wild dogwood, do I just cut about a 4 inch long end of any skinny end of any branch?

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Bch Grl

MS Kitty, I didn't see any Pseudo bombax seeds on the banana tree.com.

Logos, If you know of seeds, or plants (small) I love'd to know.

There is a wonderful 60' tree in Key West and a smaller tree at a condo complex that I know of. Every time I'm down there I take cuttings and try to grow them. They always rot.:2190:

The small one is about 10' tall and blooms beautifully!

Margie

mskitty38583

if it is the shaving brush tree, they dont have the seeds, it is the actual tree. i will look on there to let you know where it is.ok?

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mskitty38583

beach girl it is in the plant and bulb catagory on page 2 at the banana tree.com

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