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Tissue Culturing & Other Propagation Techniques of Banana Plants This forum is for discussing propagation techniques of banana plants. Tissue culturing is the popular process of creating clones from a source plant. There are other techniques to propagate banana plants however, such as nicking corms or dividing corms. Learn more inside. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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![]() My neighbor gave me several large banana plants, one of which is nearly 10 feet tall (taller than a 12 ft wall with leaves). He removed them from his yard not overly carefully, and as a result got about half the corms, and very little if any roots.
Any suggestions? Do you think these will survive and grow roots? |
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#2 (permalink) |
container grower Location: Southwest Ohio U.S.A.🇺🇸
Zone: HZ 6/5 Microclimate - Elevation 750 feet- 228.60 meters
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![]() Rest easy ......all is good.
First response... says they will sort themselves out' The Pros will fill in the gaps. ![]() |
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#3 (permalink) |
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![]() Cool, thank you. Should I take the leaves off? What about watering with no roots?
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#4 (permalink) | |
container grower Location: Southwest Ohio U.S.A.🇺🇸
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At this point all that is important is what is going under the soil. When you replant in your zone, your plant will sort it self out in 60 days or more. Your size plants will have no problem finding a new home in your yard. No roots ....no problem... You got bananas. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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![]() Great, I'll trim the leaves off. Thanks for your help.
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#6 (permalink) |
Location: Penticton, BC, Okanagan Valley, Canada
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![]() Stick it into the ground or a pot. The plant will know, what to do. If it cannot
support the leaves, it will shed them or as many as it needs to shed.. You still have a corm and that is the essence of a banana. Good luck, Olaf
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#7 (permalink) |
Happy Growing Location: Beaumont Texas
Zone: 8b, but 9b weather..
Name: Migael / Michael
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![]() They will grow roots in time.. I'm sure your into spring there so in the Ground or pots.. :^)
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#8 (permalink) |
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![]() Yes, they are in the ground. It's been mid 80's in phx, so I'm hoping they root before they rot.
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Happy Growing Location: Beaumont Texas
Zone: 8b, but 9b weather..
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![]() Well if you augmented the soil I water once, and let them acclimate for 2 weeks before I do anything else (water / fert again).. :^)
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![]() I wish I would have gotten the corm in better condition, he basically dug down and broke them off leaving the rooted half of the corm in the ground. I have a good chunk of corm on each, they are just ragged at the separation point.
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#11 (permalink) | |
waggoner41
Location: Barrio San Bosco de Ciudad Golon, Costa Rica
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![]() Quote:
We normally cut the plant down to about 18" or 1/2 meter in height. I have had corms that have been cut into quarters with growth eyes in each piece that mature into healthy plants. |
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![]() If you have only half the corm and it is bigger than a walnut, you still
have a viable plant, but it changes the way I would treat it. In this case I would indeed chop off all the leaves, but the emerging one and the last one before that. Sorry, I have to disagree with Migael. Here is that unjustified fear of root rot again. (See also: What root rot? ) If the plant does not have any roots, no roots can rot. Once the roots start growing again, they are little and need all the help they can get. If the plant is in the ground, regular watering of the area should be maintained. If in a pot, which has bottom drainage, water again, as soon as the surface becomes "dryish". Olaf
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![]() Cool, I think I have a good chunk on the bottom of each stem. I did remove the leaves, they were wilting badly anyway, and I hoped removing them would keep water in the plant.
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Happy Growing Location: Beaumont Texas
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![]() Leaves won't grow till it has roots so mise well knock them off.. except the newest one..
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![]() Sound advice and a marker also helps.
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![]() Removing them before they wilt is better and removing them before separation is even better.
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![]() Thank for everyone's help, if these don't make it, he said I can dig out a few "my way" next time.
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![]() Unfortunately that will mean next year, as it soon gets to hot to plant anything out here in summer.
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If you can find a shady place or provide shade for the corms they can be planted at any time of year. Pay attention that you have provided good soil and keep them well watered. I test the moisture content of the soil about an inch deep. If the soil holds together by squeezing a handful it is moist enough. If the soil does not hold together you need to water. |
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![]() Thank you. It's been just over a week, what's the thought on when I might see progress? The stems remain pretty solid, with the most external softening, but nothing else seems to have changed otherwise. I'm in the desert, and the soil in these area has all been changed out, and blended with manure. For most of my plants I do two things, on two watering zones. I have drips above ground, and soaker line on another zone at about double the planting depth of the plants, this provides ground moisture for the roots (once they develop) in the summer, as surface water lasts minutes at 100 plus degrees, and single digit humidity.
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