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| Main Banana Discussion This is where we discuss our banana collections; tips on growing bananas, tips on harvesting bananas, sharing our banana photos and stories. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Well looks like my dwarf Orinico has decided to flower after 18 months.
Problem is, we are running out of clock for this year. Is there anyway this things fruits before the cold sets in, roughly mid November? https://imgur.com/a/XU4hcMj
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#2 (permalink) |
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banana cereal killer
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ALRIGHT!
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................................................... npk of wood ash 0/1/3 to 0/3/7 npk of banana leaf ash 1.75/0.75/0.5 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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If the fingers are developed well enough before the cold sets in, they should be able to handle light frost, especially dwarf orinoco. With certainty, they won't finish until next year.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Yeah I'm ok with that. Just hoping not to loose them. ![]()
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#5 (permalink) |
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If it doesn't get below 30F this winter in your exact microclimate, provided we continue to have warm weather until around late October of this year, they'll almost for sure make it. Challenge is if you lose all the leaves during the winter, I'm not sure what will happen.
My aeae bloomed Feb. 2018, and had about 4 good leaves on it at the time. Come end of May 2018, there were 3 leaf "stubs" left with only about 10-15% leaf material left (the rest turned brown). The fingers at that time hadn't filled in much because there was almost zero growth between Feb-May (this year, we didn't have spring, just winter and summer!) You'd think there wasn't enough leaf material to get those fingers to finish, but they continued to plump up once it warmed up! The bunch could probably be picked now, but I'm going to wait until the first finger turns yellow. Aeae is way less cold hardy than Dwarf Orinoco, so I'm pretty optimistic you'll have success with yours! Just be sure to keep that soil slightly moist but not waterlogged during the winter months, cold plus wet could rot out the corms. My plants grow on a slope, and the leaf canopy is so dense, very little water gets into the soil during the winter unless it's a very heavy storm. Even if it does, it dries out and drains very quickly, as there's a gravel bed underneath the topsoil layer. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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#7 (permalink) |
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One week update:
https://imgur.com/a/BJwQcmB
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#8 (permalink) |
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This one?
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#9 (permalink) |
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From the droopy looking leaves, this plant needs some water. Mist the leaves about 3 times a day and water the ground. A grown nana plant will transpire about 1 1/2 gal of water per day. That's a lot of water round the area of the roots. When the leaves droop, the plant IS NOT growing.
Also. soak some SOP (sulfate of potash) or MOP (murate of potash) a couple of hand fulls in a couple of gallons of water. Save the solids in the bottom for the next batch. Pour this on the plant about every 4 days. This will help to make the fruit to develop faster. ... Foliar spraying the bunch with 1 1/2% potassium will help too. You have time to get 4 or 5 nice fat hands. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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I'll give her more water. It always closes the leaves mid aft here with our 90F+ scorching days.
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#11 (permalink) |
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If there is water in the ground, the leaves shouldn't droop until the temps are about or over 100° . Misting upper plant will help cool the leaves in the bright sun.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Last edited by 37.667910 : 08-21-2018 at 03:42 PM. Reason: Link |
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#13 (permalink) |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Thanks!
Still not sure why this site never allows me to post pics direct.
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Last edited by 37.667910 : 08-21-2018 at 06:38 PM. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Week 3:
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#16 (permalink) |
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Final update:
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