Originally Posted by eddiemunozep

So if the young pups have wine colored spots then I wonder what I have?

I wonder if the young plants from Home Depot are real Fhia-1 or not?

Eddie

Originally Posted by Tytaylor77

Get a pic from above where the 3rd leaf down connects to the pstem.

Originally Posted by sputinc7

I believe Ty is talking about identifying it now, before the inflorescence, at 8 feet tall.

There can be no definitive ID at this stage, but you can rule out many types, which helps narrow it down. Also, someone who grows a certain type and has for a while should be able to say with around 80+% certainty if it is that kind by looking at those pics.

The pic of the third leaf down would clearly show the petiole, which is a major identifying marker.

Originally Posted by sputinc7

So, you couldn't be 80% sure of a cultivar looking at those 3 pics if it was one you have grown for some time? When young they all have subtle differences that one who grows them a lot should be able to notice. Sure, some are easier than others, but an experienced grower should have a good idea what it is and be quite certain of ones it is not from the 3 pics Ty explained especially when it is something from a nursery since that narrows the possibilities.
It has to do with more than just the openness of the channel in the petiole, the length, coloring, thickness, etc all play a part.
I wasn't saying you could get a certain ID, just an approximation, 80%, not 100. That means 20% of the time they will still be wrong.

Originally Posted by sputinc7

So, you couldn't be 80% sure of a cultivar looking at those 3 pics if it was one you have grown for some time? When young they all have subtle differences that one who grows them a lot should be able to notice. Sure, some are easier than others, but an experienced grower should have a good idea what it is and be quite certain of ones it is not from the 3 pics Ty explained especially when it is something from a nursery since that narrows the possibilities.
It has to do with more than just the openness of the channel in the petiole, the length, coloring, thickness, etc all play a part.
I wasn't saying you could get a certain ID, just an approximation, 80%, not 100. That means 20% of the time they will still be wrong.

Originally Posted by sputinc7

with near 100% certainty for certain varieties, such as VC or Namwah.

Originally Posted by PR-Giants

Most members prefer to know if what they are being taught is correct or incorrect.

It's easy to understand that some people only have time to read the first part of the instructions because they are in a rush to start teaching and educating others.

This is a photo of a mother plant and one of her large pups.

On the right is the pup's third leaf.

On the left is the mother plants third leaf counted from the last leaf produced before bud emergence.

Originally Posted by eddiemunozep

Ok,

I have seen posts on Fhia-1 and I am confused.

I have what I believe to be a Fhia-1 that is about 9 months old purchased from either Florida Hill or another nursery from Florida.

I was at Home Depot in Temecula, Ca. and they had Fhia-1 plants for sale.
They had the wine colored blotches in their leaves like cavendish types.

Looking at mine they do not have them.

Does anyone know if the Fhia-1 has the wine colored blotches or not?

Eddie Munoz

Originally Posted by sputinc7

If nobody can be 80+% sure from pictures, how can your pictures make anyone 98% sure?

Originally Posted by PR-Giants

This is a guide to help identify the FHIA cultivars and should improve the folks that are 80+% accurate to 98+%.

Identification and characterization guide for FHIA banana and plantain hybrids

Originally Posted by PR-Giants

The nomenclature system used to classify banana cultivars was developed by Norman Simmonds and Kenneth Shepherd in 1955. It classifies cultivated bananas into genome groups, according to the relative contribution of their ancestral wild species, and into subgroups, sets of closely related cultivars. This system eliminates almost all the difficulties and inconsistencies of a taxonomy based on Musa paradisiaca and Musa sapientum. However, due to difficulties in assigning certain cultivars to a subgroup, and to a lesser extent to a group, there are inconsistencies in the way the system has been applied. Adding to the confusion is the continued use of Latin binomials to classify cultivated bananas. Cultivated bananas are unusual in not having a Latin scientific name.

In this system, bananas, at least the ones that are related to Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana, are classified according to the relative contribution of these species designated by the letter A, for acuminata, and B, for balbisiana. A cultivar is assigned to a genome group according to the number of chromosome sets in its genome (its ploidy) and the species that donated them. Diploid cultivars can belong to the AA or AB genome group, while triploid cultivars fall into three genome groups: AAA, AAB and ABB.

Some taxonomists recognize a BBB genome group, but its existence has not been conclusively demonstrated. Tetraploid cultivars are mostly hybrids produced by breeders.


Scoring system

The system is based on 15 characters that were chosen because they are different in Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana. Each character is scored on a scale from one (typical Musa acuminata) to five (typical Musa balbisiana). The possible total scores range from a minimum of 15 to a maximum of 75. The expected scores are 15 for AA and AAA, 35 for AAB, 45 for AB, 55 for ABB and 75 for BB.