dragr13

I'm trying to identify my banana plant. i bought it almost two years ago on a whim, and that little 12" sucker really took off. i couldn't be happier with this little guy, and i'd like to find another...

see the pictures in my gallery.

thank you for any help!

chong

Judging from the size, after 2 years in an 8-gal(?) pot, the growth habit suggests that it might be Super Dwarf Cavendish.

STEELVIPER

I agree. Looks just like a Super Dwarf cavendish. oootsnana:

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JoeS475

Now the problem becomes we want something much bigger... I think a Saba would sure make a statement in NJ, if I could overwinter successfully!

~Joe

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chong

Joe,
Indeed, a Sabá would do just that. Except for the challenge of how to cover it during the winter months. You''re talking about 25-30 ft of pseudostem. If you have it against a building already that tall, it would make it easier. Otherwise to construct a structure that size, to me, would be a little daunting. I would recommend the D. Orinoco, which I'm trying to acclimatize here in Seattle myself. Sure, you're looking at just 8-10 ft (in the ground, if you can keep it warm), but personally, the fact that you can have an edible banana in your yard is enough of a statement in Zone 8, far as I'm concerned. Stronger statement if in Zone 7!

Chong

JoeS475

Chong, while I completely agree with you, the sadistic part of me really wants to try to get the tallest plant possible, even when I know deep down I'll lose.

One thing you may be able to answer for me- Is the size of the Saba proportional to it's growth speed? Since I only have 4 months of optimal weather I'd like to think it would outgrow my Cavendish, Basjoo, and Bordelon in a hurry! Especially knowing there is no reallistic way to overwinter it, how tall do you think it would get, if I were to start with a 2' tall or so plant in late April, with early September being the last period of active growth?

Regards,

~Joe

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chong

Joe, you do not have to lose. But you will need to work on it, probably as much as I do, your area being colder, my area being s-o-oo much wetter. But in a way, your area is even better for the reason that your area is hotter and more humid in the summertime. Where anytime it's above 85F here in Seattle would be a heat wave, and the humdity is usually lower than what you will experience normally.

Having said that, if you are determined, here is what I would do. First to answer your question, yes, the speed at which the Sabá grows is proportional to its size. In the right spot, I would not be surprised if you can get 15ft of growth from late spring to fall (from a corm, not TC, at least for the first year).

Before the earliest onset of the frost season ( I don't know when that would be for you), I would get ready with a cylindrical/ plastic tube**(6 oz. visqueen is fine, taped and/or stapled), the same height of the pseudostem + 1 ft x diameter of the psdstem + 18", 2 lengths (as tall as the psdstem) of 1/2" conduit or 1/2" cpvc pipe, packing styrofoam peanuts**(enough to fill the cavity between the stalk and the plastic tube), 2 soil heating cables, and one thermostat. The reason you need a thermostat is that you want to maintain 50F(max) around the plant/base. If it's higher than that, the plant will continue to grow, and it will lift your cover up. (You can get a t'stat from WW Grainger for around $13.00, but it will require some wiring. It's not difficult, 'tho.)

Then I would go to my banana plant, apologize to it, bite my lip, and cut the leaves and the psdstem at the tallest base of the leaves. (Be careful not to get the sap of the banana plant on your clothes. They will stain permanently.) Clear the area around the stalk. Thread the heating cable thru each conduit/cpvc pipe and stake them on opposite sides of the stalk, and being careful that they do not actually touch the stalk. Install the t'stat on a separate stake, approximately 3ft high off the ground.

Place the plastic cover over the setup, as equidistant from the stalk as possible. Anchor the bottom of the tube securely to the ground. Fill up the cavity with the packing styrofoam peanuts all the way. Close the top. Approximately, 6 to 8 inches from the top and bottom, puncture the tube with 8 to 10 - 3/4-holes around for ventilation. Assuming you have wired and tested your heating system, plug the heater in when the outside temperature is expected to be lower than 40F. Then you wait for 4 to 5 months for the weather to warm up.

When all danger of frost is past, remove your cover and let nature take it's course.

**Note: As an alternative to the plastic cylinder/styrofoam peanuts set-up, you can use bubble pack sheets or those 1/4" thick styrofoam liner sheets, wrapped around four corner stakes, say 2" to 4" away from the stalk. In this case, you don't even have to use soil heating cables, you can use Christmas tree lights, hooked up to your t'stat, as long as you keep the lights away from the plastic cover. Also, don't forget to puch holes, top and bottom, though you will need only 5 or 6 holes at each end.

Still want to do it?

JoeS475

Chong, thanks for the detailed reply! Now I just have to get a Saba in April and see if I can make this happen!

Regards,

~Joe

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