jbyrd88888

I think your second post to this thread poses the most controversy.
Assuming light may also refer to warmth and nutrition cancels out any other problems a banana can acquire and the water is complete (oxygen too) and stress not being a factor it maybe reasonable to entertain your theory.

I must say this water deal may not be totally too bad an idea.
The pup in water I have, has showed nice roots and two lil pup.

I'll state again I separated these at a similar height and size at the same time but, the one on land has almost doubled.


BUT I drilled many extra drain-holes and..

Added a small water pump for oxygenation.

Placed in jar wrapped in fabric to avoid clogging.

This should run on solar or ac for 12 hrs a day.


I don't want to take it out of water to recover sooo
Hope this will fix my problem... All my other plants are booming in the pond= about 3'-4" deepest 2500-2800 gallons. I have raised the banana plant a little higher as you can see.

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skiarun

In your aquaponic banana plants do you need to keep the water flowing to maintain aeration? What growing medium do you use?

cincinnana

Keep the water flowing...
Oxygenate as much as possible to avoid fouling of the water.
Photos below are from another thread.
Methods are similar except one uses a medium and the other does not.
Some people use organic medium while others use inorganic (man made) mediums.

Hydroponics for begginers

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bengal tiger nanas

nice work. very good tip.thanks don&judy

Olafhenny

Hi Justin,

I am not sure, what you are trying to say here. Nobody in this forum would suggest
raising bananas in the arctic and the need to protect your plants in all of the warmest
regions of the US in winter has been discussed in hundreds of posts. It has been IMOEO
established, that banana pants can survive with their roots submerged in water for long
periods. I also do no longer doubt, that plants have on occasion suffered root rot while
their roots were submerged in water. What I am trying to figure out is, what makes
the difference. At this time I suspect that it is oxygen supply to the water and ultimately
to the roots. That is, where your experiment can be helpful: If you managed to supply
more oxygen to your pond through some form of aeration, and your plant subsequently
recovers, that would be a strong indicator in support of that theory.

I do not see, where my second post in this thread is unduly "controversial". As a
matter of fact, it fits right in with my need for oxygen theory: As the water drains out
through the bottom holes, it sucks air containing oxygen into the voids left between
the soil particles.

Images deleted for brevity

The other plants appear to be all swamp or aquatic plants with either less need for
oxygen or being better equipped to withdraw it out of the water. My question is:
Does that "little pump" deliver the water back into the pond with some "splash"
to create aeration? A spray disperser would also help.

Thanks for working on this,
Olaf

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jbyrd88888

I am only trying to establish that there maybe many contributing factors that present root rot and if the given conditions do not supply the plant with its requirements you cannot pinpoint rot as only one deficiency/toxicity or necessity in general.

I used (for both bananas in and outside the pond)
-1/4 perlite
-1/2 peat moss/inorganic mix and
-1/4 jobes natural/organic potting mix. I not so sure I want pure inorganic but we'll see?

Okay yeah, I'll leave the pump on 24/7 and I've raised the water to "splash into" instead of "trickle" onto the surface level of the potted banana.

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PR-Giants

Thanks Justin, Great Info!

Wicking is an easy way to increase oxygen and the naners will grow faster.

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jbyrd88888

Here's an update; how she looks now Sept/12/2014
The one planted in soil looks perfect while the pond water one is recovering (not sure how fast but no more dark spots have appeared) 4 pups are growing on this one but aren't more than 1" tall (slow pups) But this makes me speculate the roots are making much head-way/progress? The water flow maybe 1-2 GPM but it's supplying good non-stop splashing that stays draining

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Olafhenny

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Vickie H.

my water bananas earlier this june in a pond with no movement of water and in a pot with yard dirt and holes

jbyrd88888

I assume only foliar fertilizing Vickie? Any fert. in soil? Lots of drain holes???

I concur Olaf,
My biggest dilemma will be around winter, when this water grown banana will be brought inside my GH. I will need to supply much more oxygen to the roots because I would like to keep this specimen aquatic.
In order to supply much more oxygen I will be frequently changing Distilled water as opposed to water from my pond. (reducing algae/build-up on water heater element and a cleaner environment for my basjoos roots).

Of course I'd like to have a diluted addition of Fruit Fuel too.

I would like to install a air stone or some kind of carbon filter in the bottom of the pot to deliver a higher air to water ratio.

My understanding is when the light is reduced and limited and/or the temp. goes down; the roots need more O2 than H2O among few other elements. Is this correct?

While basjoo maybe more hardy than others, this Almost seem like an ill attempt/reckless endeavor...?

I'm looking for tips, hints, or instructions for the best way to go about this?

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Vickie H.

no folar feeding fish pooping in water. And in basement in a tub with water 3 inches up side of pot no moving water no fertilizer did this since 2007 and had 6 bananas all winter like that

Olafhenny

Hi Vicky,

Your pond has a fairly large surface area and is not as choked with water plants as Justin's.
Augmenting this would be a good rainstorm once in a while. Did you get those?

Best,
Olaf

Hi Justin,

I am speaking here from total lack of experience, but that has never kept me from
spouting off my opinion.

But I would not go through all that trouble to try keeping the plant aquatic throughout
the winter, whatever that entails???. I would rather winter it normally in the greenhouse
as you usually do and rely on "retraining" the plant to an aquatic existence in spring. That
is, if we did not have somebody, who has probably valuable experience, on this forum.
Thus I suggest you ask Vicky how she did it.

Best,
Olaf
PS: After posting this I noticed, that Vicky has enlightened us already as to how she did it

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Vickie H.

That was my pond in June now there is water bananas water lilies water canna and water hibiscus and lotus so it does have many plants. Due to my mom being in a car wreck in July it has been chaos so I have not taken any more pictures I will look for one from previous yrs.

Vickie H.

here is another pic from another yr

Vickie H.

starting a banana in water in 2008 it is still in water. I did this myself to make a water banana

Vickie H.

banana in basement in water one winter when it was smaller. I also keep my water cannas in water all winter in the basement.

jbyrd88888

Hey Vickie I noticed many of your beautiful pictures in past posts and this seems as simple as frugal lighting and a temp maintained above 50°F. I'd would like understand more... Did you leave all lower dead leafs attached until springs and replant them once a year? Fungicide used in water overwintering? I'd like to eliminate stress but the most I can think is to just leave-them-be and let them do their natural thing.

Or upsize pots during a fall transplant? Only organic yard soil!?

Love your photos and plant collection!

How many have you lost with this "root submerged" planting method?

Obviously the more roots=better, so how to encourage?

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jbyrd88888

In addition to my growing questions, how many drain holes? Should/could I cover the pot with holes?
How do the roots look during and after wintering inside?
Did many roots grow through the drain holes?-through side or bottom mostly?
I'm not sure if I want to upgrade or downgrade the pot later on, or just leave it?

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Olafhenny

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