View Full Version : Excellent publication on some of the Cold Hardy Citruses.
JoeReal
04-08-2009, 05:12 PM
The article provides excellent meaning of cold hardiness within the context of citruses. It also has a listing and descriptions of various cold hardy citruses. Also the temperature hardiness of dormant pre-conditioned citruses. And most of all, the listing of vendors that offer cold hardy citruses.
You can download the PDF article from here:
http://www.sepalms.org/Publications/Hardy%20Citrus%20sample.pdf
Chironex
04-08-2009, 05:25 PM
Joe, once my rootstock is going strong, do you have cuttings of Chang Shou Kumquat (Fortunella obovata) available? This seems to be one of the types I would like to grow.
JoeReal
04-08-2009, 05:34 PM
Joe, once my rootstock is going strong, do you have cuttings of Chang Shou Kumquat (Fortunella obovata) available? This seems to be one of the types I would like to grow.
I don't have that one, unfortunately. From the fortunella types and their hybrids, I have Sunquat, Limequat, Meiwa Kumquat, Nagami Kumquat, Indio Mandarinquat, Calamondins (regular and variegated ). I have other kumquat types such as Centennial, Nordmann seedless, Fukushu... but the branches remained small to take budwoods from.
I also have Yuzu and Sudachi as my cold hardy types which have big branches.
Chironex
04-08-2009, 07:30 PM
Well you know me and my affinity for things Asian. (Especially Chinese or Japanese) I am into simply eating them fresh, not into jams or juicing. So whatever fits these criteria works for me.
Could you give a brief primer on what to do with the rootstocks? Like do I just plant them and let them grow as they please? Pruning, soil requirements, watering, fert, etc. How soo after they are planted will they be considered established sufficiently to grat onto?
Thanks again!
JoeReal
04-08-2009, 09:22 PM
Just plant them in the ground. Fertilize with ammonium sulfate at the rate of 300 PPM Nitrogen per watering. It should grow vigorous. then graft unto them early next spring.
I'll be on a trip to Washington State so it would be a while before I can get back to this forum.
Chironex
04-08-2009, 10:32 PM
I will just get my ppm measuring cup out and add water. Ok, seriously, like a 1/8 tsp per gallon of water????? I could find my graduate cylinder, but give me something easy, please.
JoeReal
04-09-2009, 04:03 AM
I will just get my ppm measuring cup out and add water. Ok, seriously, like a 1/8 tsp per gallon of water????? I could find my graduate cylinder, but give me something easy, please.
Since ammonium sulfate is 21% N, the correct answer would be to dissolve 5.4 grams of Ammonium sulfate per gallon of water, and it should be approximately 299.571 ppm Nitrogen. Then use that to water all kinds of citruses. You can also add 1.3 grams of Magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt) to each gallon of water for even greener leaves. This method of watering is from the UCR CCPP budwood program, so I learned from the guys who manage the screenhouses.
Since I am a winemaker, it is easy for me to weigh stuff down to the hundredth gram precision using a jeweler's scale, :)
saltydad
04-09-2009, 04:26 PM
The Southeastern Palm Society is a great organization, whose meetings are wonderful events. The publication on hardy palms is excellent. I heartily recommend anyone interested in taking a look at their site, and indeed joining.
Southeastern Palm Society (http://www.sepalms.org/)
Patty in Wisc
04-09-2009, 08:47 PM
Scot, you can graft onto your rootstock when it is pencil size. What kind do you have?
I use M.G. 24-8-16 fert on my citrus.
Howard, I was lucky enough to go to the citrus expo in '05 & '06- one big sponser was SPS. In '06 drove thru PN & Maryland to Virginia Beach. I waved to you - didn't you see me??!!!
Chironex
04-10-2009, 12:32 AM
Scot, you can graft onto your rootstock when it is pencil size. What kind do you have?
It beats the heck out of me - I am a banana guy. Joe sent me trifoliate something or other. I just got the box today, so it hasn't even been opened yet. I would think it will need to get established before I try grafting to it.
:2756:
saltydad
04-10-2009, 05:37 PM
Scot, you can graft onto your rootstock when it is pencil size. What kind do you have?
I use M.G. 24-8-16 fert on my citrus.
Howard, I was lucky enough to go to the citrus expo in '05 & '06- one big sponser was SPS. In '06 drove thru PN & Maryland to Virginia Beach. I waved to you - didn't you see me??!!!
That was you???
JoeReal
04-13-2009, 04:41 AM
It beats the heck out of me - I am a banana guy. Joe sent me trifoliate something or other. I just got the box today, so it hasn't even been opened yet. I would think it will need to get established before I try grafting to it.
:2756:
Chironex, those plants are C-35 rootstock seedlings. It is a citrange hybrid and will produce a medium-sized citrus tree. The scion cultivar grafted unto it will usually have very good to excellent quality fruits. The rootstock is hardy. If you are very skillful, you can pot them up and bud unto them. Their barks are slipping when I tried to bud them up. I recommend that you plant them into their destination in the ground and then next year graft unto them because it would be a lot easier grafting work.
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