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View Full Version : Problem or no? (dwarf cavendish)


superlysonic
04-17-2018, 09:58 AM
]Hey everyone.

I'm new here, so pardon if I violate any protocols.

This year, I'm trying my hand at growing a variety of fruit trees in containers. One of these fruits is, of course, the banana, of which I have several varieties. The first one I got, and so far the largest, is the dwarf cavendish. This is the one I have a question on.

As you can see by the photos, there appears to be something amiss. This isn't impacting growth rate as it is putting out a new leaf about once a week. However, the leaves will begin to develop something similar to the picture after about a week. I've removed some of the worse growth, but I'm curious if this is an actual issue. I've been careful not to over/under water, and I'm using a banana fertilizer from Wellspring that my other varieties seem to enjoy. Some things I wonder about are if the dips in the 40s recently have anything to do with it, or the persistent wind we see in south-central Texas this time of year. Any advice would be appreciated as Google gives you a whole range of conflicting answers.

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=62961&size=1
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=62960&size=1

edwmax
04-17-2018, 10:43 AM
That appears to be over watering. ... An enlargement of the photo shows the pot to be a 'self-watering' type or a pot with a fixed saucer. The pot is holding water in the bottom making the bottom soil soggy which will slowly kill the plant. ... You need a fast draining soil and the pot must drain the excess water out of the pot. Banana roots need to breath fresh air.

superlysonic
04-17-2018, 12:31 PM
That appears to be over watering. ... An enlargement of the photo shows the pot to be a 'self-watering' type or a pot with a fixed saucer. The pot is holding water in the bottom making the bottom soil soggy which will slowly kill the plant. ... You need a fast draining soil and the pot must drain the excess water out of the pot. Banana roots need to breath fresh air.

Interesting. The pot, however, is not self watering, nor is there a saucer at the bottom, so the water flows through when it's watered (normally it's on a stand, but I moved it out of this annoying wind). I'll let it dry out and see what happens with the next set of leaves.

edwmax
04-17-2018, 01:12 PM
Then tell us what you are using for potting soil. ... Also put your finger though the bottom hole and feel if the soil is wet.

superlysonic
04-17-2018, 01:29 PM
It's a standard organic potting soil (not MG), along with some sand and a little bit of peat. As for the dampness, today wouldn't be a good day since I gave it some water yesterday evening. If it's overwatering, that I can't handle as that's just user error (though I thought I was being careful). Disease was my main concern, though I did wonder about the wind (the Lychee can be susceptible to tip browning in wind) or even the sun, but I don't think about six hours of morning/early afternoon spring sun would be a problem.

edwmax
04-17-2018, 01:52 PM
Use a commercial potting soil with about 50% perlite or course sand (not play sand). the commercial mix will already have enough pete in the mix and sand will make the mix/pot heavy but workable.

edwmax
04-17-2018, 02:05 PM
OK ... I found a reference and description of water movement though a soil & pot. Please take note of the "perched water table" description. Al's (tapla's) Container Garden cubit: Container Soils - Water Movement and Retention forum: Container Soils - Water Movement and Retention (http://cubits.org/containergardeningwith/thread/view/1084/)

superlysonic
04-17-2018, 02:24 PM
That's a great article. Thanks a ton! I may give this a whirl on my cavendish before it gets too much bigger, and I'll certainly keep it handy when I go to repot my container fruits next spring.

Abnshrek
04-24-2018, 11:47 AM
I'd watch how cold it gets, hopefully it will be much nicer as we head towards summer.. I've never had any luck w/ DC's but Good Luck..