View Full Version : A banana fungus among us?
gogreen
01-12-2017, 03:20 PM
What's happening to my bananas? The same thing happened last year, only now they appear to have stopped growing--they're the same size they were two months ago. I sliced one open and that blackness seems to go through the skin to the white part inside. Is this curable?https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/48631029/bananas1-12-17.jpg
sputinc7
01-12-2017, 03:58 PM
I hope someone helps you. Mine are turning black and shriveling up and nobody seems to know what is going on or just ain't telling. See here: http://www.bananas.org/f310/new-issue-bananas-turning-black-dying-46868.html
beam2050
01-12-2017, 03:58 PM
what kind of banana
edwmax
01-12-2017, 04:21 PM
Try spraying your plant and bananas with copper sulfate mixture. I use this in my garden and 3 months ago sprayed my inside banana plants when I saw some white fungus on the stalks. ...
copper sulfate/water => 4 teaspoons copper sulfate to 1 gallon of water.
You can also make a 1% Burgundy Mixture as follows:
For 1 gal mix:
38 g copper sulfate => 1.34 oz => 2 tbl
47 g washing soda => 1.66 oz => 3 tbl
1 gal water
Note: De-solve the copper sulfate in 1 pint of water and the washing soda in 1 pint of water. Strain each into 1 one gal container. Then finish filling (3 qt) water.
or a Bordeaux Mixture (http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7481.html). see link for directions. Bordeaux Mixture--UC IPM (http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7481.html)
This wont cure the fungus but will stop it from spreading. These have greatly reduced leaf spot and bloom-end rot in my garden. And is used by the large banana plantations in their fields. A 3lb bag of copper sulfate is about $5 to $8; and a box of Mule Team washing soda is about $3.50. This is much less expensive than buying off-the -self fungicides.
Richard
01-12-2017, 04:29 PM
Try spraying your plant and bananas with copper sulfate mixture.
Or just purchase Monterey Liqui-Cop (http://www.montereylawngarden.com/product_information.aspx?242000p=38d342ec-490d-4a2b-8680-a5c80e030d41&240000p=0fcd062e-3250-4d03-9e74-3be36cab8eb4) -- it's a better copper fungicide product.
But before you do, check with Nicolas Naranja (http://www.bananas.org/member-nicolas-naranja.html). He's a professional banana grower and plant pathologist in your area.
HMelendez
01-12-2017, 04:53 PM
Arthur,
Please follow the thread "http://www.bananas.org/f2/goldfinger-bunch-has-spots-seems-ripening-46796.html" on the Main Banana Discussion Section!......
Hopefully it helps!.....
merce3
01-12-2017, 07:22 PM
Or just purchase Monterey Liqui-Cop (http://www.montereylawngarden.com/product_information.aspx?242000p=38d342ec-490d-4a2b-8680-a5c80e030d41&240000p=0fcd062e-3250-4d03-9e74-3be36cab8eb4) -- it's a better copper fungicide product.
But before you do, check with Nicolas Naranja (http://www.bananas.org/member-nicolas-naranja.html). He's a professional banana grower and plant pathologist in your area.
I've never seen that product.. How does it compare to southern ag?
edwmax
01-13-2017, 08:47 AM
I've never seen that product.. How does it compare to southern ag?
Southern Ag Liquid Copper Fungicide is the same. It is Copper diammonia diacetate complex at 27.15%. A pint will mix 20 to 24 gal. of spray. A pound of copper sulphate will mix about 24 gallons at 1/2%.
As I said above, I can mix copper sulphate much less expensive than buying brand labeled mixture of the same chemicals. Copper suphate is readily available while other copper compounds/chemicals are not.
Do a web search for more info on using copper sulphate on bananas. You will find that the Bordeaux and Burgundy mixtures have been used since the 1920s on bananas.
gogreen
01-13-2017, 09:17 AM
Any suggestions on where I can have my bananas tested for which, if any, virus it may be? I'm in southwest Florida.
HMelendez
01-13-2017, 10:44 AM
Any suggestions on where I can have my bananas tested for which, if any, virus it may be? I'm in southwest Florida.
Arthur,
Experienced forum member Gabe mentioned in other thread. The place is FEPDC (Florida Extension Plant Diagnostic Clinic | Tropical Research and Education Center, UF, IFAS)......
link Florida Extension Plant Diagnostic Clinic | Tropical Research and Education Center, UF, IFAS (http://www.plantclinic.org/)
gogreen
01-13-2017, 08:55 PM
Thanks. Before I destroy the plant, I want to have it tested to see what the problem actually is. I'll contact them.
sputinc7
01-13-2017, 11:53 PM
Be sure to let us know.
gogreen
01-14-2017, 09:02 AM
Be sure to let us know.
I will.
Ripsaw
01-17-2017, 12:48 PM
Keep a journal! If you have done everything the same and have success, then the problem usually lies somewhere else. Track what you do on a calendar. Weather patterns or feeding changed? Watering too much in rainy season? Not enough? This will help next time if it happens, and hopefully not.
Fungus? Do what was suggested. Anything out of the ordinary get sprayed on the plant? Companion plantings? :03:
Ripsaw
01-17-2017, 01:31 PM
Can you slice a piece of fruit across and lengthwise to show the "infection inside" and a closer photo of a couple of bananas? You could have a cigar rot. If the end of the banana starts rotting, and it progresses, that could be it. Some fungi are in the soil as well. When you take it down, pay attention to the inside of the stem and what it looks like. Dispose of the plant if that is the case.
JCA433
01-19-2017, 04:40 PM
What's happening to my bananas? The same thing happened last year, only now they appear to have stopped growing--they're the same size they were two months ago. I sliced one open and that blackness seems to go through the skin to the white part inside. Is this curable?https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/48631029/bananas1-12-17.jpg
The spots on your bananas are similar in appearance to the spots on my Goldfinger bunch.
gogreen
01-22-2017, 11:11 AM
Can you slice a piece of fruit across and lengthwise to show the "infection inside" and a closer photo of a couple of bananas?
I've attached two photos--one of a banana closeup and another of it sliced open. Any ideas?https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/48631029/banana1.jpghttps://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/48631029/banana2.jpg
Ripsaw
01-24-2017, 11:52 PM
That is a fungus or anthracnose. You need to talk to IFAS soon and send some photos. I believe Mr. Don Murray works there, he may be a bee guy, but anyone can help you. There are some nasty banana fungi around. You may have to treat the soil or move the bananas away from that area. But, I don't know so this is all just conjecture and my opinion. IFAS will know.
gogreen
01-25-2017, 09:39 AM
Thanks. I'm in touch with IFAS.
Floozy
01-27-2017, 08:17 AM
Thanks. I'm in touch with the Sizegenetics https://www.ybinteractive.com/sizegenetics-review-results IFAS.
Poor bananas. Let us know what you find out!
gogreen
01-28-2017, 07:41 PM
Samples sent to the lab today. I'll report the results. Fingers crossed this problem is treatable.
Ripsaw
01-29-2017, 04:25 PM
Any news from IFAS regarding this problem. I also live in zone 10.
gogreen
01-29-2017, 07:26 PM
Any news from IFAS regarding this problem. I also live in zone 10.
I expect to hear something end of this coming week or early the following week.
gogreen
02-02-2017, 08:52 PM
The plant specimen diagnostic report came back:
Symptoms on banana fruit submitted to the Florida Extension Plant Diagnostic Clinic resemble those caused by Banana Streak Virus. Once a plant is infected with a virus it is virtually impossible to get rid of it. Do not propagate from infected plants. Purchase plants only from sources who test for viruses. Promote optimal plant health through proper fertilization and irrigation. Please contact your local county extension agent for further questions.
Disappointing news, but at least there's no more guessing about the problem.
beam2050
02-03-2017, 09:19 AM
sorry to hear.
edwmax
02-03-2017, 04:16 PM
The plant specimen diagnostic report came back:
Symptoms on banana fruit submitted to the Florida Extension Plant Diagnostic Clinic resemble those caused by Banana Streak Virus. Once a plant is infected with a virus it is virtually impossible to get rid of it. Do not propagate from infected plants. Purchase plants only from sources who test for viruses. Promote optimal plant health through proper fertilization and irrigation. Please contact your local county extension agent for further questions.
Disappointing news, but at least there's no more guessing about the problem.
They are not going to test the samples? But only render a statement!
gogreen
02-10-2017, 09:34 PM
They are not going to test the samples? But only render a statement!
I can't tell from the "statement" if they actually tested my samples, or if they made a judgment just from looking at the samples and photographs I sent. Does anyone know how this works? I emailed the person who sent me the report for an explanation on 2/2. No response--yet. I'll be contacting the director. This is beginning to seem like a $40 ripoff. I hope I'm wrong.
Samples and photos sent to IFAS in Homestead, FL.
edwmax
02-11-2017, 06:13 PM
The plant specimen diagnostic report came back:
Symptoms on banana fruit submitted to the Florida Extension Plant Diagnostic Clinic resemble those caused by Banana Streak Virus. ...
Disappointing news, but at least there's no more guessing about the problem.
Symptoms & resemble are visual evaluations of the sample. Where as a TEST should prove 'positive or negative' results. Then the report should make a statement such as 'the test prove positive or negative for ????'.
geosulcata
02-11-2017, 09:13 PM
The plant specimen diagnostic report came back:
Symptoms on banana fruit submitted to the Florida Extension Plant Diagnostic Clinic resemble those caused by Banana Streak Virus. Once a plant is infected with a virus it is virtually impossible to get rid of it. Do not propagate from infected plants. Purchase plants only from sources who test for viruses. Promote optimal plant health through proper fertilization and irrigation. Please contact your local county extension agent for further questions.
Disappointing news, but at least there's no more guessing about the problem.
Maybe in the future, send to plant pathology at DPI in Gainesville. They test for free as far as I know.
gogreen
02-12-2017, 09:38 AM
In fairness, the report did include a microscopic examination. I'm hoping my naivety of the scientific procedure is causing my skeptical response.https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/48631029/diagnostic.PNG
gogreen
02-14-2017, 01:30 PM
I received clarification on the Florida Extension Plant Diagnostic Clinic:
For that sample, we contacted expert professors and doctors from the tropical field and for the specialized banana field as we suspected that it was a virus, more specifically Banana Streak Virus. We also tested the sample for pathogens in general to discard other possibilities.
As I mentioned, I certainly did not mean to impinge on anyone or the clinic's work or reputation. My unfamiliarity with this kind of testing drove my skepticism, which I see is, thankfully, totally unfounded.
Ripsaw
02-15-2017, 10:03 AM
Well, we kind of guessed it was a fungus or a virus. Get rid of them, find another part of the property to plant on if you can. Ask the IFAS for their advice on replanting elsewhere in the yard, any idea what causes it (other plants, etc), or any controls? Good luck and keep us informed about it.
I believe I do not live too far from you so this is of concern to me as well. Thanks!
gogreen
02-16-2017, 03:02 PM
I can't confirm it, but I suspect a mealybug infestation caused the virus--that is, mealybugs transferred the virus to the plant. I've had mealybug infestations elsewhere in my landscaping, so I'm not surprised. I did spray with insecticidal soap, but I think I was too late with it. Right now, I will likely not replant.
Ripsaw
02-17-2017, 12:45 PM
I use Organicide product to drench the soil and to spray my plants late in the evening when applying per instructions. It never fails me by taking out aphids, white flies and mealybugs. I am also checking to see if someone has treated the soil for the virus successfully, but it is always better to start a new planting location. If caused by mealybugs, getting rid of them may help.
gogreen
02-17-2017, 02:30 PM
I made my own safe insecticide with Dr. Bronner's peppermint soap. Works well. I used it on oleander caterpillars and it kills them within minutes.
Ripsaw
02-17-2017, 09:30 PM
Yeah! Dr Bronners is good. I use it too. Got a couple of recipes using it. Good stuff! Works well with pure Neem oil.
I made my own safe insecticide with Dr. Bronner's peppermint soap. Works well. I used it on oleander caterpillars and it kills them within minutes.
Ripsaw
02-17-2017, 10:13 PM
GoGreen,
I did some more checking out of curiosity. Florida is one of the areas in the world having this virus. It is similar to one in sugarcane, and can be found in heliconia (false bird of paradise). Also transmitted by mealybugs and infected bananas (cavendish is one). And you should acquire bananas that have been tested for this. Appears to be a major problem in some countries such as Ecuador and many others. The virus won't transfer to your cutting tools but it is always a good idea to clean them anyway. Seems like people say it is not transmitted via soil but other plant materials in the soil may be enough.
It is also transferred by seeds, as well as associated with some species of mealybugs. So, get rid of the plants, get rid of the mealybugs, and plant somewhere else on your lot, and keep an eye out for more symptoms and mealybugs. Try planting some different Musa. (see the report for susceptible plants)
Commercial growers have controlled the virus by drastic eradication within 50 m2 of the infected plant. Sometimes leaves are flecked or streaked but not always showing up immediately, sometimes within three generations.
"Detection and Inspection
If possible, plants should be grown under cool or fluctuating temperatures. The leaves should be inspected for chlorotic or necrotic streak or fleck symptoms. Not all leaves may show symptoms; often streaks are only seen on one or two leaves on an infected plant. Incomplete bunch emergence or bunches emerging through the pseudostem also suggest that the plant may be virus infected."
Also,
"Mealybug vectors should be controlled if virus incidence is high and the disease appears to be spreading from plant to plant. The virus is unlikely to be spread on cutting tools or by mechanical means.
In Ecuador, where banana streak is a serious problem in some commercial Cavendish plantations, plants with symptoms are quickly destroyed after spraying with insecticide in an effort to contain the outbreak. If 10 plants with symptoms are seen in a 50 mē area, then all plants in that area are destroyed. However, these practices have failed to stop spread and more drastic action is being considered (Lockhart and Jones, 1999)."
Plants may be symptomless (see Symptoms) and tests need to be undertaken to determine if the virus is present or absent (see Diagnostic Methods).
Looks like Florida is unlucky enough to be on the list of of places where this occurs so eradicate it.
*I am adding a link to the report on this if you haven't seen it already.
Banana streak disease (http://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/8548)
:08:
I can't confirm it, but I suspect a mealybug infestation caused the virus--that is, mealybugs transferred the virus to the plant. I've had mealybug infestations elsewhere in my landscaping, so I'm not surprised. I did spray with insecticidal soap, but I think I was too late with it. Right now, I will likely not replant.
gogreen
02-18-2017, 09:17 AM
Thanks, RipsawFF. You've given me hope. I may try a less susceptible banana variety in a different location.
gogreen
02-18-2017, 06:16 PM
Now that I think about it, does anyone know what are the banana varieties that are most resistant to banana streak virus?
Ripsaw
02-24-2017, 11:01 AM
Sorry I haven't replied lately. Been occupied catching up on family and life.
I think most cultivars of banana are susceptible to the Badnavirus, but this source suggested two that seem to "rarely" have this virus:
"Cultivars Lady Finger (Musa AAB group) and Goldfinger (Musa AAAB group) have been propagated in large quantities in Australia by tissue culture, but infection in these cultivars is very rare (A. D. W. Geering & J. E. Thomas, unpublished data)."
They still can get the virus so control of the mealybugs should be a regular treatment plan. Introducing "mealybug destroyers" or other insect control of mealybugs would be helpful. I have used the mealybug destroyer with success as an experiment by a friend from Davey Tree Company. They were wonderful cleaning up my hibiscus without chemical treatments, and ridding mealybugs, scale, and aphids elsewhere in the yard. They are voracious predators.
The only problems with them are they look similar to mealybugs in the young stage. Adult stage gives the name of brown ladybug. My neighbor mistook them for mealybugs and blanketed the area and part of my adjoining yard with chems killing many (they will travel to other yards in search of more prey). So, you need to know what they look like to avoid killing them. I organicide when they are not present to destroy soft bodied insect pests.
You can also do soil drenches with organicide, and spray your bananas directly to rid them and control the pests, but, remember, it only takes one mealybug to spread the virus which may not show up immediately.
I believe you are on Pine Island, right? Go to one of the nurseries down the road and ask them what they recommend. They could recommend a good banana that might work for you.
Meanwhile, I am at it searching for mealybug infestations on my plants. Keep us informed as to what you decide to do and the outcome, which may take a while.
Good luck, and thanks for bringing this problem to light!
:bananas_b
gogreen
02-26-2017, 10:05 PM
I've decided to try again with Goldfinger (Musa AAAB group). I'll grow it in a pot for a while. Then I'll plant it on the other side of the house from where the diseased plant was.
I've read that implements and tools don't transmit the virus, but, just in case, how do I clean (disinfect) my garden tools--bleach? alcohol?
edwmax
02-27-2017, 07:49 AM
I've decided to try again with Goldfinger (Musa AAAB group). I'll grow it in a pot for a while. Then I'll plant it on the other side of the house from where the diseased plant was.
I've read that implements and tools don't transmit the virus, but, just in case, how do I clean (disinfect) my garden tools--bleach? alcohol?
Wash with bleach. The corm can also be disinfected with bleach too before planting. This helps to prevent transfer of fungus from one field/plot to another.
sputinc7
02-27-2017, 08:25 AM
Certainly you mean diluted bleach, like a capful in a couple gallons or some such... I just don't want this poor guy to dump pure bleach on his corm and kill it. :D
edwmax
02-27-2017, 09:24 AM
Certainly you mean diluted bleach, like a capful in a couple gallons or some such... I just don't want this poor guy to dump pure bleach on his corm and kill it. :D
Yes, diluted. Two tablespoons to the gallon is about 200 parts/million. Good for washing vegetables before selling or eating.
Disinfection of banana corms using bleach at 10% - 20% (100ml/200ml per L). Rinse with clear water. AgriGuide - AgriGuide (http://www.agriguide.org/index.php?what=agriguide&id=186&language=en) ... Hot/boiling water can be used too.
Disinfection of garden tools: How to Disinfect Gardening Tools: 3 Steps (with Pictures) (http://www.wikihow.com/Disinfect-Gardening-Tools)
sputinc7
02-27-2017, 03:34 PM
WOW!! 2 cups of bleach to a gallon? Seems like way too much to me. Especially is you are going to soak them 10 minutes...
Ripsaw
03-17-2017, 12:42 PM
Yes, diluted. Two tablespoons to the gallon is about 200 parts/million. Good for washing vegetables before selling or eating.
Disinfection of banana corms using bleach at 10% - 20% (100ml/200ml per L). Rinse with clear water. AgriGuide - AgriGuide (http://www.agriguide.org/index.php?what=agriguide&id=186&language=en) ... Hot/boiling water can be used too.
Disinfection of garden tools: How to Disinfect Gardening Tools: 3 Steps (with Pictures) (http://www.wikihow.com/Disinfect-Gardening-Tools)
I think that was two bleach bottle caps of bleach per gallon, or about 2 TBSP. You can also just wipe your tool blades with undiluted bleach and let them air dry.
edwmax
03-17-2017, 02:29 PM
I think that was two bleach bottle caps of bleach per gallon, or about 2 TBSP. You can also just wipe your tool blades with undiluted bleach and let them air dry.
The 'undiluted' bleach (household) is only 5% to 6% (standard) to 8.25% concentrated.
gogreen
03-29-2017, 01:58 PM
How can I disinfect the soil where the infected banana plant was? Or shouldn't I even try?
Ripsaw
03-31-2017, 10:21 AM
How can I disinfect the soil where the infected banana plant was? Or shouldn't I even try?
Similar to preparing a garden. Not all fungi is bad, some are good. I have done this to garden beds:
1. Dig and break up clods to about 6 inches depth, or more, where most fungus will live. Do this for all the area you want to plant in and an additional few feet around the infected area.
2. Dig a trench around the edge of the area. Or use bricks or something to hold plastic down flat around edge of area like rocks, bricks, etc, whatever is easiest for you.** Sometimes I lay bags of mulch around. I also do this to kill weeds. :ha:
3. Spread some heavy duty clear plastic (you can get a roll from a hardware store) and cut to length. Spread another layer across that and cut. If your hardware store has some clear plastic sheeting used for lining car trunks, try to get several long sheets free if they will let you have some (also depends on size and area to cover).
4. **Push gently into trench and cover trench with soil you previously removed.
5. Let set a couple of months. Here in SW Florida, through the end of August should do it since we are coming up on April now you may just want to let it go dormant from April through July or August. You can use a soil thermometer to check the temperature, which should reach 115-120 deg F here and if you want to ensure fungi die. Just leaving plastic on the soil for a couple of months during our hot, wet season should do the trick.
6. Remove plastic, or leave on soil and punch some holes in it with a garden fork or put nails through a piece of board and attach a handle and stamp holes in plastic to allow water to perc through and keep weeds down (does the same trick as weed fabric and I have done this in banana beds. If pups push up, just slice a hole for them to come through. My bananas and plantains in Central Florida loved this.
7. Option: I also add a 3-in-1 Organicide drench to the soil before planting again.
8. Add some good, clean disinfected garden soil and compost on top of the disinfected soil or just leave plastic on it as mentioned above and you should be ready to go. Use Mychorizal and disinfecting seeds if planting seeds will also help.
9. Now plant! Remember, the bad fungus you had was spread by an insect, right? Control them! If the bananas planted there have the same problem in the future, it is likely the insect causing it.
And...Yes, I have done this! It also can kill weed seeds. Good when changing a garden bed to new crops during hot part of year in Florida (we have a different growing season than up North of course).
I hope this works for you! Not hard to do unless ground is hard to break up.
Don
gogreen
05-25-2017, 01:39 PM
I had the plant and corm removed about two months ago--or so I thought. I noticed that a new stem has just emerged from the spot of the plant that was removed. I guess a piece of the corm survived and produced a new stem. Now my question is, is this stem likely infected with banana streak virus, too, as was the previous plant?
davidbrooks
04-21-2018, 02:19 PM
Try spraying your plant and bananas with copper sulfate mixture. I use this in my garden and 3 months ago sprayed my inside banana plants when I saw some Sizegenetics https://www.fitnessdonkey.com/male-enhancement/sizegenetics-reviews (https://www.fitnessdonkey.com/male-enhancement/sizegenetics-reviews) white fungus on the stalks. ...
copper sulfate/water => 4 teaspoons copper sulfate to 1 gallon of water.
You can also make a 1% Burgundy Mixture as follows:
For 1 gal mix:
38 g copper sulfate => 1.34 oz => 2 tbl
47 g washing soda => 1.66 oz => 3 tbl
1 gal water
Note: De-solve the copper sulfate in 1 pint of water and the washing soda in 1 pint of water. Strain each into 1 one gal container. Then finish filling (3 qt) water.
or a Bordeaux Mixture (http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7481.html). see link for directions. Bordeaux Mixture--UC IPM (http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7481.html)
This wont cure the fungus but will stop it from spreading. These have greatly reduced leaf spot and bloom-end rot in my garden. And is used by large banana plantations in their fields. A 3lb bag of copper sulfate is about $5 to $8; and a box of Mule Team washing soda is about $3.50. This is much less expensive than buying off-the -self fungicides.
This solution was the perfect fix for my problem. The fungus has stopped growing and my bananas seem to recovering.
edwmax
04-21-2018, 05:02 PM
...:woohoonaner: .... :goteam: ... :drum: ...
scotmaria
06-21-2018, 07:27 AM
The fungus lives in the soil, where it attacks the roots of the banana plant ... short enough that those who fought Panama disease in Central America
SixtySix
06-21-2018, 08:16 AM
The 'undiluted' bleach (household) is only 5% to 6% (standard) to 8.25% concentrated.
You can find 10% chlorine bleach at Walmart sold as Pool Chlorinating Liquid.
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