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View Full Version : Rooting plants from cuttings . . .


formontcalamus
12-22-2007, 12:54 AM
I have been experimenting with and commercially rooting cuttings for 30 years. I cannot aford to have rooting fail because that may mean several days work and thousands of plants wasted. I often read here and on other groups how people loose valuable plants because they make major mistakes in thier methods. So, here goes . . . I will expose the secrets of the professionals ! First secret . . . There is no one way, every grower does rooting a bit different, even the professionals sometimes use methods that are complicated and un-necessary. In short . . "Its easy" !!

First importance: You must provide constant moisture to avoid rapid transpiration (foliage wilt).

Second: Too much moisture can cause root rot or stem rot befor rooting.

Third: The potting medium should be stirile or of non-active organic materials.

Fourth: Never try to root cuttings in full Sun or without light. Most plants need bright light but no burning Sun.

Fifth: Never try to root cuttings with full foliage left on the cuttings. Cut off (do not pull off by hand) leaves all except 3 or 4 at top of cutting, then cut thoes few leaves in half. A few plants will root best from cuttings with all leaves cut off and others may need a few leaves (so they can remember who they are).

If you are rooting only a few cuttings at a time, heres the very best medium to stick cuttings in. "Canadian Spagnum Moss" One small bag with 1/3 Pearlite. Wet Spagnum in a bucket, drain off excess water then add Pearlite and mix by hand. Stuff medium into 4" or 6" clean pots. Poke hole with knife into moss then stick cutting/s 1/3 deep. Never stick cuttings without poking an opening first or you will tear the bottom of the cutting causing rot.

Spagnum Moss holds many times its weight in water than soil creating its
own constant damp environment and (very important) Spagnum is naturally anti-fungus which protects cuttings from rot !!

Most "soft" stem house plants like Ivy's do not need this attention, will root in pre-baged potting mix. This formula is important for hardwood plants, heavy stem tropicals and thick branching species.

Example: Folow method above and stick 3 cuttings of your favorite Bougainvillea into one pot. One or two will root in 4 weeks at about 78*f. Bougainvillea roots best with cool nights 72-75*f. and days at 80-90*f. They like the rest of cool nights. Cuttings must be taken from the parent and stuck immediately. Bougainvillea will require misting about three times per day. (no vacations allowed untill rooted!).

We might get a usefull thread going here if y'all will tell us what you wish to root. I will come back and offer my experience and perhaps someone els will chip in with particular plant rooting experience !
Logos

Lard Greystoke
12-22-2007, 01:35 AM
I will chime in.

The number of methods also rises according to the variety of plants. Rooting succulents such as cacti and aloes is totally different because the plant itself stores water in the stem or leaves. Typically after cutting you need to allow the wound a couple of days to dry off, and then stick the plant in moderately moist soil and do nothing for weeks to months.

Bch Grl
12-22-2007, 01:42 AM
Oh, if you could give me hints on rooting a Pseudobombax elipticom (sp?)(Pink shaving brush), I would be in heaven! I have tried more than a few times and failed.

Or if anyone has a plant they are willing to part with....

Margie

formontcalamus
12-22-2007, 06:43 PM
Margie . . . Pseudobombax are mostly trees that grow to 100' Your favorite to 35' and the trees do not flower for a few years ? I found some info on your favorite that indicates it will grow in zone 9. If you live near the beach in Jax, I think you are in 9-a !! ??

Your favorite, Shaving Brush is a species and would start better from seed.
Trees seed about Feb. March. Check out seed sources ? I do not grow trees but if I see this one I'll try and see if it will root from cuttings.
Logos

CookieCows
12-22-2007, 07:38 PM
formontcalamus thank you for sharing this rooting technique!!!

mskitty38583
12-22-2007, 09:06 PM
the banana tree.com has them beachgirl,( id rather get mine from logos, you know what youll get) if logos cant locate one. they have the seeds i believe. thank you for the use full info. i have been rooting christmas cactus and they are great( you know who you are) i figure a few more weeks and they will be on their way. yes you can say horray! i rooteded mine in water 7-10 days. then put them in 'nana' dirt, and didnt water for one week, because of the water storage. now my sedum, i just layed the extra leaves on top of the dirt, and just put VERY little dirt over the cut ends and ive had everyone of them root. thats for those who want to root you more sedum. and i have found a way to ' cheat' when it comes to rooting woody stemmed plants. and logos is right do not leave very many leaves on the plant. he is right about cutting the leaves not pulling them off. however this is how i root my willow trees, corkscrewillows and a few others like certian roses, and logos please dont choke... cut a good, thick sturdy limb, branch, piece of rose bush, what ever you are tyring to root. cut all the excess leaves off. leave a few at the top so the plant can breath. on the cut end you can either score the wood 2-6 inches up the wood, or mash the end with a hammer. i have done this tons of times and it does work. place it in a 1 gallon clean pickle jar with warm tap water and place it in the shade where it will get filtered light. change the water 1 time a week and in 2- 4 months you will have roots. i just gave away a corkscrew willow tree that i had rooted this way and the roots were so massive i had to jocky the roots out of the jar.i also rooted wild rose bushes this way. my friends thought i was cracked till they saw the root system on them. just my 2 cents on how i snag branches from trees and make my own.

BabyBlue11371
12-22-2007, 11:10 PM
one of my favorite mediums for rooting cuttings is peat pellet.. the type you start seeds in.. they come compressed and I can store many until I need them and only use the ones I need when I need them.. I also use Ziploc baggies as a mini greenhouse.. it keeps the moisture in.. I air up each baggie each day to keep the bags off the leaves by blowing in the bag and sealing it before the air can escape. I keep the baggies on top of the fridge where it is nice and warm and I have florescent light right above it about a foot from where I keep the cuttings..
I'm sure this probably doesn't work with every thing.. but it has worked very well with my citrus root stock cuttings..
I do cut off all but 2-4 leaves and use rooting hormone..
as soon as I see root coming out of the pellet I transplant to my regular soil mix in 4 in clay pot and place the clay pot back in Ziploc baggie with the top open for a few weeks to allow the new roots time to get in to the soil..

I also have recently put some cuttings in a fish tank I've made in to a terrarium.. I ran out of pellets and the local nursery was destroyed by the flood and will not restock till this next spring.. so I'm having to be creative about how to solve my planting needs..
I don't know how well the terrarium will work.. but so far so good.. I put about two inches of my "usual" citrus mix with over double the perilite mixed in..
I do have to mist it at least once or twice a day..

Gina *BabyBlue*

D_&_T
12-22-2007, 11:18 PM
may have to try this on some of my wifes and kids roses this summer

formontcalamus
12-24-2007, 12:31 AM
Ms. Kitty . . . You jogged my memory on something worth trying. If anyone trys rooting in just water (always let water sit for few hours to evaporate chlorine) . . . scrape some bark off a branch of Willow then drop the crumpled small branch and the bark into the water container with the plant you are trying to root !! This is an ancient farmers method of rooting. The Willow contains "asidacylic" (spelling?) acid which generates rooting. The same acid is used to manufacture Asprin. Logos

CookieCows
12-24-2007, 12:36 AM
Could you break a capsule of white willow bark from a health food store into the water if you don't have access to a willow tree?

inkcube
12-24-2007, 01:41 AM
willow tissue contains a low level of indolebutyric acid, a rooting hormone. aspirin is the acetylated form of salicyclic acid which has little or no rooting hormone activity, there has been a lot of research on this subject. what aspirin does do in some plant is stimulate the production of anti-bacterial proteins. other studies have shown that the addition of willow bark had no significant effect on rooting, in other words water without bark rooted as well as water with bark.

using willows capsules will depend upon how the herb is manufactured; if it is sterilized with heat it will most likely destroy the rooting properties.

another thing to keep in mind when water rooting, the roots formed in water have a lower survival rate when planted in soil.

CookieCows
12-24-2007, 01:45 AM
interesting.. thank you

mskitty38583
12-24-2007, 02:19 PM
i knew that willow bark could be used as asprin, but i didnt know all of that. wow. learn something new every day. when i root the willows this way the rate of success was really good. however i didnt know the roots, rooted from water had a less chance of survival..thats good to know. might have to do some more rooting of both ways. thanks for the info.

Mike_J
12-24-2007, 04:48 PM
I started rooting plumarias in a similar way. Here in Chicago they cost $50 for a 12 inch stalk and More $$ the larger they are. When I found this could be done when ever I would go to the keys I would break a branch of and take it home. I would take all the leaves off it dip the cut end in water then dip it in shcultz root hormone. I would stick the stalk in soil about 4 inch down and keep it in a sunny room and keep it moist and warm and about 30 days later lots of roots. Now I have seen stalks for sale online for 4 to 7 each.

STEELVIPER
12-24-2007, 09:35 PM
50 bucks????? dam!! that is quite pricey. I get mine off e-bay from a grower in Hawaii. anywhere from 10 to 30 bucks for a 12 inch or more cutting. :parachutenanner:

bigdog
12-24-2007, 10:28 PM
I've got a question for you rooting gurus out there. While I root many plants at the greenhouse, they are usually very easy plants like Coleus or some herbaceous plant. I bought a Wollemi Pine last year, and it now has 3 leaders. I want to cut one and try to root it, but have never attempted a conifer. What do you do with side branches, especially if they are close to the apical meristem? I would think that you just cut them way back, close to the main stem, but I don't know. Also, is it better to take cuttings from dormant wood or actively growing wood? Thanks,

Frank

formontcalamus
12-24-2007, 10:54 PM
O.K. You guys . . . Everyone seams to have a different method for rooting. There are lots of plant species that are so easy that you can make all the wrong moves and they will root anyway, so long as they have water and soil. However . . .

there are basic necessities required in rooting. First: use clean pots and soil without active organic materials. Many commercial potting soils contain mulched bark that begins to decompose as soon as wet causing regeneration of fungus. "No good" Cypress mulch contains bark but is resistant to decomposing at least untill long after your cuttings are rooted.

Something overlooked in my previous posts . . Suculents, Cactus, some Euphorbias and Plumerias all need to dry off (heel) for a couple days before sticking into rooting medium.

"Aeration is very important" The rooting medium should drain very quickly to show that air is entering the medium. Rooting cuttings is somewhat like a religious experience. Once you find a way that works (if it works, dont fix it), you will tend to stay with it and "believe in it" and you will be resistant to change the methods, but if you are loosing cuttings to root-rot, you must keep trying other methods . . .

I challenge all to try the mix I discribed in my post: 1/3 Pearlite and 2/3 rough Canadian Spagnum Moss. CSM is "anti-fungus, the most important asset that no soil mix has !! You do not have to fool around with hormones and in small pots large cuttings can be rooted. The roots develope "fast" and fill the pot with a solid rootball. The Spagnum binds all the roots in a ball so that when you plant into regular soil, the root ball does not fall apart damaging roots, etc.

This past month I rooted over a hundred PLUMARIA cuttings, 2 cuttings per 6" pot and lost 2 (because the cat sat on them). The cuttings took only three weeks to root and are now full of little buds !!

In my nursery business I root hundreds of cuttings every day without a mist system, in the open air without shade cloth cover. The plants are watered with a sprinkler system that wets them only three times per day for three minutes.

CookieCows
12-24-2007, 11:12 PM
Also, is it better to take cuttings from dormant wood or actively growing wood?

formontcalamus... I'm also interested the dormant or actively growing question? Do you have any ideas on that?

Thanks,
Deb

formontcalamus
12-24-2007, 11:27 PM
I cannot believe you guys are paying such prices for unrooted Plumeria !! My plants (trees) are not big enough to offer quantities yet. But for 30.00 I'll send you 10 total of three or four varieties . . .

Also, check back here few days I'll post sources for Plumeria much lower than Hawaii !!

formontcalamus
12-24-2007, 11:48 PM
Cookie . . . You got me in a pinch there. My experience is almost completely with tropicals. I root any time of year, any plant. Little experience I have with temperate climate plants is that of cource they will root from active groth vegetation, and I would think better than from dormant.

Once the plant has had its system shut down from cold I would think dormant branches would respond to rooting as if they had just discouvered Springtime ! An important reason for leaving "just a little foliage" on the cuttings is that some limmited transpiration keeps the cutting alive untill rooting can support it. With dormant cuttings, I think you may have to allow the normal seasonal rest befor it will respond to new groth ?

If I were in your spot, I would at leat experiment during the winter and if your "sample" cuttings do not root . . . and if they do, then you are months ahead of Nature !! Try with a dormant specie that you know you can root in springtime like Juniper, Viburnum, Forsythia, etc. That way if they do not root, then your question is answered.

mskitty38583
12-24-2007, 11:58 PM
miss cookie, if you use dormant cuttings the sap has ran out of the branch. me, i personally would use the 'live' branches. thats the only way i have tried it, but hey whos to say it wont work? give it a try, you might be surprised. logos i never thought about using junipers. i have 3 types in my yard...i might have to wack a few branches off and try it. my daughter wanted to try bonzi, junipers are great trees for that. thank you for the info. oh christmas tree, oh christmas tree, come let me shave a branch or two off thee...:)

CookieCows
12-25-2007, 12:18 AM
My husband would think I was a God if I were to make baby junipers out of his various bushes. :golfingbanana: I don't care much for them but he loves them all. I've got to find that Canadian Spagnum Moss. I think that's the route I want to try if it's readily available. I wish it was spring. I don't know if I'll be able to wait. I figured the dormat branch would be a "no-go" but it's been on my mind for days now and when I saw someone else ask I just jumped on it! I had no idea that the sap left the branch in winter.

formontcalamus
12-25-2007, 12:23 AM
When I first came to Puerto Rico three years ago I noticed that every house had in its front yard a Plumeria tree, many Crotons and another bush I did not know untill one day got out of truck walked up close and said to a friend . . . my god its a Crape Myrtle !

They are all over the Island. They do not go dormant, they keep on growing full foliage all year round !! So I recently rooted cuttings for my wifes garden (in Spagnum). If you have a warm spell up there, cut some branches of Crape myrtle and you may have a head start on spring planting.

mskitty38583
12-25-2007, 12:27 AM
the sap leave the dedicious trees, let me clarify myself. i dont believe it leaves the evergreen, well because their evergreen. i have been wanting to try this w/ my pink dogwoods for a while now, just didnt have the gutts to wack a branch off a dogwood! thats almost like a mortal sin.(flowering tree of virginia) so ive been post poning that. do you think if your hubby cut the branches for you that hed be ok w/ it? tell him its to make more of them...dont know if that will work you could try...

mskitty38583
12-25-2007, 12:33 AM
logos, i have a pink crepe myrtle, and a white. they have already gone dormant. my yellow star jasmine got hit with a freeze a few days ago and then it warmed up. now i have buds on the jasmine and im gonna have to pull them off before they get mushy. your lucky to live where you do and have a minimum winter. so spring i will have to remove the sucker branches and try to root them. these suckers have roots( baby tiny roots) so ill just probably plant them. any advise for the tiny baby rooted crepe mertles? the roots are real little.

inkcube
12-25-2007, 12:54 AM
rooting woody plants is always a challenge. typically, stem cuttings of tree species tend to be difficult to root, however, cuttings from trees such as crape myrtles, some elms, and birches can be rooted. a greenhouse is not necessary for successful propagation by stem cuttings; however, maintaining high humidity around the cutting is critical.

there are four main types of stem cuttings; herbaceous, softwood, semi-hardwood, and hardwood. these terms reflect the growth stage of the stock plant, which is one of the most important factors influencing whether or not cuttings will root. what you want to root and how easy it will root is based on the wood type, for example, crape myrtle you should use semi-hardwood and ginkgo use softwood.

-herbaceous cuttings are non-woody, herbaceous plants such as coleus, chrysanthemums, and dahlia
-softwood cuttings are taken from soft, succulent, new growth of woody plants, just as it begins to harden (mature)
-semi-hardwood cuttings are usually prepared from partially mature wood of the current season’s growth, just after a flush of growth
-hardwood cuttings are taken from dormant, mature stems in late fall, winter, or early spring

cuttings generally should consist of the current or past season’s growth, avoid material with flower buds if possible - remove any flowers and flower buds when preparing cuttings so the cutting’s energy can go to producing new roots instead of flowers. remove the leaves from the lower one-third to one-half of the cutting, on large-leafed plants, the remaining leaves may be cut in half to reduce water loss & conserve space. always take cuttings from healthy, disease-free plants, preferably from the upper part of the plant. treating cuttings with root-promoting compounds, there are commercial products made especially for rooting woody cuttings and contain a higher percentage of hormone.

rooting will vary with the type of cutting, the species being rooted, and environmental conditions. conifers generally require more time than decidious broadleaf plants. late fall or early winter is a good time to root conifers, i have had great luck with pines and ginkgo taking my cuttings in the fall.

newly rooted cuttings should not be transplanted directly into your landscape, instead, transfer them into containers or a bed - growing them to a larger size before transplanting to your permanent location will greatly increase the chances for survival.

bigdog, if you take a cutting from your pine you will most likely ruin the shape - cause multiple leaders. if this was to be a stock plant then that would not matter but in your yard it might look bad. take your cuttings in the fall, try semi-hardwood & hardwood (i don't have a reference for that species)

mskitty38583
12-25-2007, 04:15 PM
thank you inkcube. that was interesting and very informative. my concern w/ trying this on a pink dogwood is if it will revert back to what it was grafted with. im not even sure what kind of stock they graft pink dogwoods to. do they use the white dogwood or is it an entirely different species?

thank you logos, you guys are very good at this stuff. it sets my mind a little more at ease trying to decide what type of tree i want to root.and it gives me more options on how to root them.

my mom has some miniture cherry 'bushes' might have to try with those too...and as for the juniper....lets just see how that one goes.:2559: :naner7hat: :nanawhopp: :2208: :colorwoot: :bananajoy:

bigdog
12-25-2007, 04:50 PM
Inkcube, it isn't really actually a pine at all. It is Wollemia nobilis, and is in the Araucariaceae (sp?) family. There isn't much information out about how to propagate it because they don't want you to, lol. The leader I would be removing is one of three, and isn't the main leader. You can prune the leader off on these and they will grow a new one. Oh, and yes, I am using it as a stock plant.

I think I just found my answer though. I looked in my Plant Propagation, Principles and Practices, (Hartmann and Kester), and they say to use semi-hardwood cuttings for Araucaria species. I assume it would be the same for Wollemia.

inkcube
12-25-2007, 05:44 PM
a cutting from a dogwood would be what you see, the graft would be down near the root crown - you should be able to see a collar-like scar at the soil line. any root suckers you get would be from the root stock. so if you take a stem cutting it will be what you normally see, a pink dogwood.

mskitty38583
12-25-2007, 06:32 PM
i know where they grafted it at, i found it the other day....wahoo. i thought i could do it that way,i was just kinda of iffy about cutting the tree.. (i have never tried to root a dogwood) that is great!! thank you very much for your help. if its nice tomorrow i may snag 2 branches( 50-50% of sucess when you cut two) and ill take some of my creeping juniper and try that too.:0488: :pepper2nana: :2761: :2223: :2748: :bananaflipflop:

formontcalamus
12-25-2007, 10:13 PM
Dear Incube, metaphysically wrinkle free . . . I appreciate your more botanical info and that you have corrected me twice ! I had no idea that Pine species could be rooted from cuttings. If so, I'm sure it's difficult and requires controled conditions that most of us may not be able to provide or have the pacience to do. If we could combine our tallents, perhaps we could root cuttings of Peach, Apple, Mango, Alvacado, and make a fortune without grafting !! I tried to root a Mango cultivar once and got all excited when it calloused but it refused to root.

Do you have any comments on rooting Italian Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens). I have a customer that bugs me to do liners.

Your ID (about you) is empty. Please offer info on signature block (userCP - upper left). What is/was your profession, where are you located ? Anything to create an identity would make communication more meaningfull !

Logos Formont Calamus / Nurseryman / Puerto Rico

formontcalamus
12-25-2007, 10:34 PM
BIG DOG . . . Thats not fair, you said it was a Pine. "Australian Pines" are best grown from seed (Araucarias). Which reminds me . . . lateral-horizontal branches of plants that are prized for thier horizontal character will not come true from such cuttings. They will eventually grow in radical shape. Its a biology-DNA problem that mabe Inkcube can help us with ?

mskitty38583
12-25-2007, 11:18 PM
i love the way that inkcube gives us defined(scientific terms) . i love the way logos gives us undefinded( down to earth terms) if we could role the two of you into one, i would live at yalls greenhouse!! you guys tickle me so much. you guys are the greatest!!! what one dosent add the other does, and you two compliment eachother well. and you make this whole rooting plants and cutting thread a hoot! just thought yall should know that.:choochoo: :0518: :2212: i realy appriciate all the knowledge that you two impart to us. it is helpful!

bigdog
12-25-2007, 11:18 PM
Let me try to be more clear here...

The common name is Wollemi Pine.

The botanical name is Wollemia Nobilis.

It is not actually a pine, but rather in the Araucariaceae family.

I'm not looking to take a branch cutting. There are three (3) leaders on this tree, and I'm wanting to try and root one of them. On the leader that I want to root, there are three lateral branches very close to the apical meristem, and I'm wondering if I should just cut them back all the way to the main leader, partway, or leave them as is.

formontcalamus
12-27-2007, 02:15 AM
Big Dog . . . I hope Inkcube buts in to help you. I cannot find any reference to Wollemi nobilis I know of several Araucarias , but not that one. If taking a cutting will not disturbe the character of the plant (or its style of groth), I would go ahead and try.

Something I have learned over the years . . . rooting in a dark greenhouse or under 50% + shade cloth causes more root rot than situations with brighter light. Bright lite, even morning Sun in winter with high humidity is very best !! Many commercial nurseries experience big losses not knowing thier greenhouses are just too dark. They think that stopping transpiration helps rooting. Without transpiration cuttings will not root, mostly rot. All this seams obvious.

CookieCows
12-27-2007, 02:05 PM
I'm heading to Lowes in about an hour and I know they don't have Canadian Spagnum Moss but I'm sure they have another brand of spagnum moss so any brand is ok as long as that's what it is? I want to take afew branches off of one of the junipers today and give it a try. I have a jar of that rooting powder and will stick it in that first I guess. I'm excited.. I hope it roots but if not I'll wait and try it again in summer.

CookieCows
12-27-2007, 08:54 PM
To cut a snip from a wild dogwood, do I just cut about a 4 inch long end of any skinny end of any branch?

Bch Grl
12-27-2007, 09:12 PM
MS Kitty, I didn't see any Pseudo bombax seeds on the banana tree.com.

Logos, If you know of seeds, or plants (small) I love'd to know.

There is a wonderful 60' tree in Key West and a smaller tree at a condo complex that I know of. Every time I'm down there I take cuttings and try to grow them. They always rot.:2190::0493:

The small one is about 10' tall and blooms beautifully! :2141:

Margie:blueskirtnaner:

mskitty38583
12-27-2007, 09:21 PM
if it is the shaving brush tree, they dont have the seeds, it is the actual tree. i will look on there to let you know where it is.ok?

mskitty38583
12-27-2007, 09:24 PM
beach girl it is in the plant and bulb catagory on page 2 at the banana tree.com

Bch Grl
12-27-2007, 09:47 PM
Found it! Thanks Ms Kitty!:2788:

Margie:pinkskirtnaner:

mskitty38583
12-27-2007, 10:36 PM
your welcome. i plant "surf" over there all the time. lol just to see the new stuff.:D

formontcalamus
12-27-2007, 11:46 PM
Margie . . . Pseudo Bombax is native to northern South America and the Caribean Islands. In each region the trees naturally hybridize with each other creating different colour blooms and different character shapes, height etc. There is one I ve seen here that blooms bright Pink. I'll look for seed and ask my smart friends if there is a source for seeds. Takes time. Will make a note and sooner or latter will get back to you.

Would you like to see a photo of my house in the jungle ? Click on my neighbors site: www.montosogardens.com Click: enlarge the little photo. In the lower right corner is a white rooftop. The little white spot by the roof is me waving ! Como esta . . Feliz navidad ! The blue haze in the back is El Mar Caribe.

formontcalamus
12-28-2007, 12:02 AM
Help ! . . . Logos (the man who thinks he knows everything) needs advise on rooting Bamboo. I can root the big ones, but I was given a semi dwarf variety that is extreemly beautiful, its Variegated. At the nodes it has bunches of deviding foliage with heavy axis that look like they might root ? Es posible con mi metodo usual? Where is Incube when you need him ?

mskitty38583
12-28-2007, 12:43 AM
hes on vacation!!!!ha ha ha lol lol. i dont know where he is. btw, i love the view you have at your house!

Lagniappe
12-28-2007, 01:39 PM
Hey Taylor! Check out this book!!! It even has dogwoods on the cover .
http://www.amazon.com/Taylors-50-Best-Trees-Beautiful/dp/0395873320

Bch Grl
12-28-2007, 08:05 PM
Logos..I would love some seeds if you can find some. I browse the seed sites on occasion, but have not found any seeds.
The bright pink ones are what I'm looking for. The ones in the Keys are like that!

Love your forest and the view!

Margie:pinkskirtnaner:

Kylie2x
12-30-2007, 02:24 PM
WOW!!! I am a little late BUT Better late than never.LOL.. It is such a busy time of yr for me.. This has been a very interesting thread.. I have learned alot and laughed alot! I wasn't around to welcome all of these new people soooo Please allow me the oppurtunity now to say WELCOME Everyone!!!
Kylie