View Full Version : Time to put the bananas to sleep for the Winter
bigdog
11-02-2005, 03:42 PM
It's the time of year that I dread...time to dig up the bananas. For those of us in colder zones with no greenhouse, we have to do it in order to ever get fruit. Everybody has their own methods of overwintering bananas. This is just what works for me.
Here's the last picture of my mini-plantation, the day before I started digging.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=273&size=1
The next day, I started by cutting most of the leaves off of the pseudostems. P-stems with fruit were left alone.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=266&size=1
I couldn't quite comfortably reach the top few leaves on a few, so I dug them first.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=268&size=1
Digging them is actually pretty easy. The roots are pretty shallow, and easy to cut. I just cut a circle around each plant, and gently get underneath the corm with a shovel and tip them over.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=267&size=1
We had .02 inches of rain in October, so the ground was nice and dry, as were the corms. Normally, if the corms were wet, I would let them dry out in the sun for a day or two. At this step, you can clear all of the dirt and cut the roots off if you want to. I tried to clear as much dirt off as possible, just because it makes moving the plants a bit easier. They are heavy enough without dirt weighing them down any more. The roots left on the corm will die anyway, so cutting them off will not hurt the plant in any way. Due to the fact that I had so many plants to dig and move, I didn't bother with the roots. Here's what one looked like after clearing most of the dirt from it.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=269&size=1
Here's a few plants, ready to store. Notice that I have left pups on the mother corm. A couple fell off in the moving process, but that's ok. The whole idea here is that when the mother p-stem is through fruiting next year (hopefully), the pups will still have a large corm to draw energy from. They grow exponentially faster when left attached to the mother corm!
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=270&size=1
The p-stem in the middle of this picture is about 7 1/2 feet tall, and started growing from the ground from a mother corm last Spring. I have a couple more pups that are even larger than this (8 feet or so) that started at ground level also from a mother corm. In contrast, I have had a couple of plants that originated as pups separated from mother corms that have yet to achieve 7 feet after 2 full seasons!
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=274&size=1
Banana plants, ready to store under the house. The large plant in the middle has a nine foot p-stem, and the whole plant weighed several hundred pounds. One of the large pups broke off of this one in transit.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=271&size=1
Normally, I would have left a leaf on most of these plants. The nine-footer pictured above had several leaves left on it, because I am anticipating a bloom very soon on this one. In fact, I was quite shocked that it hasn't bloomed yet, as others have bloomed around eight feet. The more leaves that the plant has at blooming time, the bigger the bunches of fruit. You don't NEED to leave any leaves on the plant, the theory is that it will help the plant start growing quicker come Spring (more green surfaces to make energy). After taking these pictures, I cut every leaf off of my plants because I am moving them all to Knoxville, TN from Nashville. I am moving there next month.
I also dug up my musella lasiocarpas to take with me. They are one of my very favorite banana plants! They also store VERY well dormant under the house. Here they are. Hopefully I'll get a couple of flowers next year from the two biggest plants.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=272&size=1
After loading them all into a trailer for the trip to Knoxville, here's what it looked like. That's the 9 footer on the left side.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=264&size=1
After arriving in Knoxville, I took another picture of the trailer, sans tarp.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=265&size=1
Then I got a few boards together and placed them in the crawl space. They are just more a precaution than anything else. I stack the corms on them, in case water were to somehow flood the crawl space. I don't have any pictures of this process because it was getting dark and I was tired and just trying to get it all done. This is the hardest part of the whole deal. Dragging corms underneath the house can be tricky and hard work! They are awkward and heavy, and I only have a few feet of headroom under the house to work with. After stacking the plants under the house, you can throw a sheet or two over them if you want if it makes you feel better. I didn't. They also don't get one drop of water all Winter.
Hope this helps somebody. It's all in fun! The whole reason is to get fruit, obviously. I did put a few pretty small pseudostems under the house too, in hope that they would make it. Some don't. It's not a fool-proof method, and doesn't work with every banana, but it should with most. Cool, dry, and dark works very well in my experience. Good luck to everyone overwintering their bananas this Winter, and I hope you all get large bunches of fruit next year!
- Frank
JoeReal
11-02-2005, 05:23 PM
Thanks for sharing the process very clearly. This would help a lot of banana growers in the more colder regions. Truly outstanding hard work, what I mean, your time to take pics and show it to us.
I usually don't go to this much trouble over here in zone 9 California as I already narrowed down my plants to those that would stay put during the winterr in the ground but would bloom and bear fruits by mid-spring. I do have the cold sensitive types potted and I haul the pots into the garage, with their leaves and all. When the subsequent forecasts starts to dip below the minimum temp of 38 deg F, that's the time I haul them in, using a dolly. I put them out when min temp forecasts starts to go above 38 deg F.
Excellent and outstanding job!
Sodak
11-02-2005, 07:33 PM
Wow! Fantastic tutorial. Great pics too! \
Will you have more room to grow at the new location? What varieties do you grow? What variety is the nine footer? What type produces best in your location out of the varieties you grow? Sorry, about the 20 questions.
Thanks for sharing!
bigdog
11-02-2005, 07:52 PM
Thank you for the nice words, Joe and Sodak!
Sodak, most of those are Tall Orinocos, which seem to produce pretty well here. They don't take forever to mature and ripen, like some varieties do. I have dwarf orinoco also, which someday will probably replace the talls. I'm also growing raja puri, belle, goldfinger, FHIA-3 sweetheart, ice cream, 1000 fingers, brazilian, and a bunch of ornamentals. Most of those are not good choices for my climate, but I thought I'd try anyway!
The 9 footer is tall orinoco.
Yes, I will have LOTS more room to grow bananas at my new location! My girlfriend has a HUGE backyard, which I can't wait to start tearing up. :D
Sodak
11-02-2005, 08:11 PM
I have dwarf orinoco also, which someday will probably replace the talls.
The 9 footer is tall orinoco.
:D
Let me know when you're ready to get rid of some tall Orinocos. I'd be happy to pay for a big corm, or whatever you would unload. :)
Thanks for the info!
Frank, You are one dedicated banana man!! I don't know if I would be willing to do that much work if I couldn't leave them in the ground year round. One thing I noticed is that Orinocos don't seem to have very big corms. I remember one time I had to move a Saba and the corm was so big and so heavy that I could not lift it out of the hole that I had dug around it. I had to tie a rope around it and drag it out of the hole and across the yard to it's new spot. It just about killed me! I wish I would have taken a picture of it, it was massive!!
Bananavilla
11-03-2005, 02:49 AM
Frank, this thread is AAA+! Absolutely the best thread on overwintering bananas.
Hopefully this post is bookmarked by all would be cold climate banana growers.
Great work!
Mike
bigdog
11-03-2005, 11:41 AM
Thanks, Mike! Wow, I appreciate the kind words and praise! I see overwintering questions all of the time on forums. If people only knew how easy it really is.
Jeff, maybe that's why I haven't tried saba yet! Even though corms of tall orinoco may be smaller, get one with a nine foot pseudostem and several large pups attached, and it is nasty heavy! Eventually, I'd like to get all dwarf varieties, with maybe a few talls here and there. I'd like to get my hands on a Cal. Gold next Spring too!
PhilMusa
11-03-2005, 12:30 PM
Great work BigDog, on both your process and the way you captured your process!
I also have an over wintering question,
This year I planted an unknown banana plant in container which I then place in the ground.
The plant did okay but really didn't grow tall about 3ft.
I now need to over winter because as many of you know it gets pretty cold north of the border.
Now the question, should I store it in its container as is or should I take it out and strip off all the leaves and dirt?:confused:
Either way I will place it in a cool dark dry place in my basement.
By the way here's a picture of it I took this summer.
http://www.sighost.us/members/PhilMusa/unknown_variety__banana_plant_sept_6_2005.jpg
P.S.
I agree with Bananavilla's Quote:
...this thread is AAA+! Absolutely the best thread on overwintering bananas.
Hopefully this post is bookmarked by all would be cold climate banana growers.
Great work!
Reagrds
maesy
11-03-2005, 12:41 PM
Oh yes, a California Gold is exactly what I would like to have too.
Jeff, or any body else, would you send a pup to Switzerland?
I will pay you, no problem.
I have Misi lukis, Ice cream, Sikkimensis and FHIA 18 that I am going to over winter this way.
And it`s the first way that I overwinter any bananas this way and I`m totaly excited about it!
Thank you Frank for sharing your experience with us.
Dwarf Orinoco and Dwarf Brazilian are still small enough to fit inside the house even they are already touching the ceiling of the livingroom.
I hopefully will have a bloom on them next year.
Marcel
JoeReal
11-03-2005, 01:16 PM
PhilMusa: As long as your basement is a few degrees above freezing and you don't water, you don't need to take out the leaves. That's what I do every winter for my cold sensitive plants. I just haul them in. I clean only the dead and yellow leaves. I keep them in the dark. Sometimes when the temperature gets too high, like about 13 deg C (> 55 deg F) or more (it happens in my garage), then I turn on the bright CF lights for a few hours, water sparingly if the pot becomes really dry. This keeps their leaves green. Most tropical plants become inactive when temperature falls below 55 deg F, that is my guideline when to flip the switch on inside the unheated garage. So if you have a greenhouse, that would be a nice guideline too.
The way most tropical plants gets damaged during the onset of the colder months is due to chilling injury. The chilling injury occurs when temperature is cold (different plants have different temperature tolerances) in the presence of strong PAR (Photosynthetically Active Region) lights. When the leaves get hit by these lights, electrons in the chloroplasts gets energized, but the rest of the photosynthetic appratus is still asleep (metabolically inactive) due to cold temperature. The energized electrons with nowhere to go will damage the surrounding tissues when it dissipates its energy. So it is better to keep it dark when it is cold. You can see the injury similar to bleached or burnt leaf, because they literally burn from the inside. And we are talking about above freezing temperature here.
Below the chilling injury when it gets colder still is the freezing injury. Freezing injury is of course debilitating when temperature gets below freezing point. Ice crystals simply damaged the tissues physically. Freezing can be caused by frosts or simply cold freezing air temperature. Banana freezes below 0 deg C (32 deg F) by a few degrees (4-8 deg F below pure water) due to the solutes in their sap. Drier bananas will survive much lower freezing temperature than the wet succulent ones because their solute gets concentrated when they're drier.
bigdog
11-03-2005, 02:33 PM
Wow, Joe, what a great explanation! I stick anything I can in the crawl space, including EEs, cannas, bananas (potted also), etc.
Phil, I agree with Joe, you can keep the leaves on your banana and store it in the basement (wish I had one!). You'll lose a few to yellowing probably, but that's ok and nothing to worry about. By the way, your banana looks like a young ensete ventricosum to me. Thank you for your kind words also!
Maesy, thank you, and I hope everything stores just fine for you.
BobbyinNY
11-03-2005, 03:15 PM
Bigdog.....
VERY INFORMATIVE.. what a great job !!! AAA+.... You cut those leaves off like it's nothing.. I'm scared to death because I feel like I'd kill the plant.. Well, I'm not gonna have a choice soon. I just looked at my dwarf cavendish and it's already at the top of my greenhouse - I'm gonna have to bring him in and put him to sleep or just let him kinda hang out in one of my rooms. ugghh.
Southern-Grower
11-03-2005, 07:13 PM
yupper yu got it going on..
nice plants and bunches of hard work ..
aren't yu gonna replace those with the d.o.?? little less work..
i saw where hp gve yu a big well deserved atta boy, instead of "yu shuld hve"..:ha: sometimes just don't get those folks..
bigdog
11-03-2005, 07:35 PM
Thanks, SG. Yep, I do plan on replacing them with d.o. It'll be awhile before I have enough to replace them though. Until then, I'll keep torturing myself :ha: ! It wouldn't be so bad if I had a full-sized basement. The hardest part is lugging them underneath the house via a small, crawl space door. Then, once you get them under there you have to move them around, stack them, etc. Hard to do with only a few feet of headroom! Digging them is the easy part. My problem is I don't seem to want to get rid of any bananas. I just keep on adding and adding to my collection. And my girlfriend, whom I am moving in with in Knoxville, has a HUGE backyard with lots of sun :D ...
Ditto on the hp ;) . It's all good.
JoeReal
11-03-2005, 08:12 PM
Frank (BigDog): I have several D.O. that I plan to dispose of next spring. Just holler if you want corm (expensive shipping) or the pup without leaves. Just pay for the shipping, and maybe $2.00 more for the gas and packing tapes. Offered only for you, because of the great pics.
GATrops
11-03-2005, 11:25 PM
Frank-I agree with the other posts about the excellent job you did with your photos and documentation of your work. That is an excellent "how to" for anyone wanting to store their plants during the winter. Fantastic Job!!!!!
I also sent you a PM about your wish list. ;)
Bananavilla
11-03-2005, 11:37 PM
GaTrops,
Why can I smell Tissue Cultured Dwarf Orinoco's in the air? :rolleyes:
Mike
bigdog
11-04-2005, 12:18 AM
Thank you Joe! I'm probably going to take you up on that offer. Storing d.o.'s would be a bit easier than those talls.
Richard, thanks for saying so! I hope this post helps answer some questions for people, as I tend to see the same questions over and over on GW.
Bobby, thank you. Don't be afraid! Bananas are tough, man!
PhilMusa
11-04-2005, 09:57 AM
Thanks JoeReal for your detailed response to my question, very informative. I don't know what else to say other than "WOW"!
BigDog thanks for the ID on the plant. I can now do some research on my ensete ventricosum.
Regards to everyone!
AnnaJW
11-04-2005, 10:18 PM
Wow, Frank!!! You are one dedicated banana grower! Great pics and narrative. Thanks for sharing!
surgeon83
11-05-2005, 12:58 AM
Let me begin by saying I can't believe you dig up that entire plantation every year. It is astonishing how well that seems to be working for you.
Second, I came to the board to find out how deep I would have to dig to move my banana with a 6' pseudostem and 3 pups, and found it on the first thread I read! What a great resource.
Thanks
MediaHound
11-06-2005, 11:04 AM
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=264&size=1
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=265&size=1
Those pictures are so classic!
"Have 'nanners, will travel." :ha:
momoese
11-06-2005, 03:15 PM
Your new neighbors are in for a bit of a surprise come spring time! ;)
bigdog
11-07-2005, 03:10 PM
Yeah...the neighbors aren't even going to see it coming :D .
Ok, here is the rest of the thread that I should've included into the original post. Here is the crawl space door that they ALL went into.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=286&size=1
And here is a few shots of the bananas stored under the house. Don't ask me how many there are...I don't know!
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=283&size=1
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=287&size=1
You can see that there are two rows.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=284&size=1
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=285&size=1
Way too much fun :cool: .
I'm hoping for 8 bunches of MATURE, ripe bananas next year. We'll see...
BobbyinNY
11-07-2005, 03:13 PM
Frank,
aren't you worried about any animals destroying anything?.. like rodents?
bigdog
11-07-2005, 03:21 PM
Not really. They won't eat 'em all :ha: !! I've never had a problem with animals eating the first thing that I've put under the house. But then again, I've never put anything under THIS house until now. I'm more worried about these mid-70 degree days we've been having. This happened to me last year too, with warm temps coming as soon as I dig the nanners. Didn't affect them at all last year though, and it looks like it'll be cooling down by the weekend.
Guess I could place a few mouse traps down there to see if there are any around.
Oh...did I forget to mention that my girlfriend has 6 cats :D ?
imdocrob
11-08-2005, 03:47 PM
Excellent work bigdog. Was just wondering what zone do you live in? Is it necessary to actually take them out of the ground each year if you live in an area where you won't get a frost? The pics are worth a 1000 words. How does one know when the banana is going to fruit? I have one goldfinger that is about 4 feet tall and I have it inside for the winter and it is still growing like a weed. Any advice on this? It has just sprung up a 2nd pup. When do I remove the pups and let them grow on their own? Thanks again.
Bananavilla
11-09-2005, 12:28 AM
No frost = No Dig - zone 9 and up fruit in ground with no to minimal protection.
The pup issue has been discussed many a time.
Size of pseudostem (trunk) to approximate fruit time and "paddle leaf" tells it is coming now. :eek:
Mike
bigdog
11-09-2005, 12:37 AM
I live in zone 7, Nashville, TN. I'm moving to zone 7, Knoxville, TN. If you live in an area where you don't get frost, or very little frost, then it isn't necessary to dig them up. The only way to get fruit in my climate is to dig them up.
You don't really know exactly when a plant is going to bloom. You will see a short leaf, or "paddle leaf", emerge right before the bloom. My Tall Orinocos have bloomed at 7 1/2 feet-8+feet, and I have one that is 9 feet tall that hasn't bloomed yet. A good website that shows approximate blooming heights for different varieties is webebananas.com.
You don't have to remove pups, but if you want to, wait until they are over a foot tall at least. Search this forum and Gardenweb for more info on this.
Thanks!
bigdog
11-09-2005, 12:46 AM
Sheesh, Mike, you beat me to it! :ha:
jwsrootuser
12-05-2005, 05:14 PM
hi to you all, i'm new to this site, today!!
after reading all that was said on this issue i have put my collection, away for the winter,
basement, cool around 55 deg, not to dry in pots, and dark! have i missed anything?
i have had them for 8 years, but this year mites ate them up faster than i could care for them, two weeks distroyed , so after reading here this may be a good option this year
time will tell, thanks for all the good reading also
jws
Nice job!
Though it makes me feel so fortunate to be in southern florida :D
bigdog
08-30-2006, 07:45 PM
I just wanted to thank everybody for the response that I've received to this thread. I have had requests from people to post this thread on their own websites, others have shared this thread with their plant clubs, some have PM'ed me thanking me for posting the information...the list goes on and on. I receive about an email or PM every couple of weeks about this thread still, and it was made last November. I want to state that most of what I've learned about storing bananas and growing them in my zone, has been learned from others. Much of it has been adapted to my own needs in zone 7, my small crawl space, etc. It is still an ongoing process, and I learn more every year from growing bananas. It is probably the single-most rewarding plant that I've ever grown! To be able to harvest fresh bananas grown in my own backyard for the past several years has been nothing short of awesome, every time it happens, no matter how small the bunch size (and they are SMALL this year!).
So I was looking at the number of views of this thread, and it was 2,521 at the time of this post. Wow :02: ! I'm glad that people have been able to learn from it, and maybe one day I should write a book about my experiences. What do you think?
Taylor
08-30-2006, 07:52 PM
DEFINATELY, you should write a book. And when you do, I got dibs on a copy, okay?
mikevan
08-30-2006, 09:47 PM
Heh - I can't help but point to this thread everytime winterizing nanners comes up on the various groups I'm on. I hope it remains in the archives for quite some time. Put me down for that book too - autographed, por favor. Make it a field book with a ring binder too so we can take it out to the trees for comparison and whatnot. :)
Be well,
Mike
I just wanted to thank everybody for the response that I've received to this thread. I have had requests from people to post this thread on their own websites, others have shared this thread with their plant clubs, some have PM'ed me thanking me for posting the information...the list goes on and on. I receive about an email or PM every couple of weeks about this thread still, and it was made last November. I want to state that most of what I've learned about storing bananas and growing them in my zone, has been learned from others. Much of it has been adapted to my own needs in zone 7, my small crawl space, etc. It is still an ongoing process, and I learn more every year from growing bananas. It is probably the single-most rewarding plant that I've ever grown! To be able to harvest fresh bananas grown in my own backyard for the past several years has been nothing short of awesome, every time it happens, no matter how small the bunch size (and they are SMALL this year!).
So I was looking at the number of views of this thread, and it was 2,521 at the time of this post. Wow :02: ! I'm glad that people have been able to learn from it, and maybe one day I should write a book about my experiences. What do you think?
BobbyinNY
08-31-2006, 07:45 AM
Bigdog,
Tell us about your successes.... How did the bananas do under the house?
Bobby
bigdog
08-31-2006, 08:55 PM
Most of them did just fine. All of the Orinocos, Brazilian, musella lasiocarpa, musa itinerans, and Ice Cream stored great, and are growing like mad right now. Orinoco is still the best, however. Raja Puri and Sweetheart had quite a bit of mush on the outer layers, but came back ok. The big loser was musa 'Royal Red'. The entire pseudostem rotted back to the corm, and then the corm rotted when I planted it out. I have pics of my bananas on another post, Bobby, HERE (http://www.bananas.org/showthread.php?t=852). All of the ones in the big garden were under the house last winter, with 2 exceptions. Three have fruit hanging on them, and they will have time to mature before first frost.
nucci60
09-03-2006, 11:17 AM
:2559:HI joe, my name is nucci60 and I am the newest member of the forum. As soon as i browsed the forum i found your post. I want to thank you for the wealth of information and the time it took you to make this presentation. For someone like me ,with only two basjoos in the ground (well i live in zone 6, Ma., and can;t put much else in the ground) it was very inspiring. the part that shocked me was the weight of the pseudostems. Are they much lighter in spring as they dry out.?
jeffreyp
09-12-2006, 01:27 PM
frank,
I thought you were also growing M. Intinerans?
bigdog
09-12-2006, 07:06 PM
nucci60, my name is Frank (not Joe). Glad you enjoyed the post! To answer your question: No, the pseudostems do not lose much weight at all come Spring. This is because they don't dry out appreciably. The orinocos don't anyway. Musa basjoo dried out considerably though. Not all bananas respond the same being stored dormant. Some lose almost no pseudostem to dessication, some lose all pseudostem, and all ranges in between.
Jeff, I am growing musa itinerans still. Check a few posts up, and you will see I listed it there.
nucci60
09-12-2006, 08:24 PM
Frank, one more question. Do you have to support the larger pseudostems when they go back in the ground while thry are putting out new roots?
jeffreyp
09-12-2006, 09:05 PM
BIGD,
Be glad you're not growing SABA! I had some blow over last year in hurricane Wilma and nearly broke my back righting them. :0493:
I couldn't imaging hauling off all the pseudostems every year.
scooterbug
09-13-2006, 03:03 PM
:baloonnaner: Hiya Bigdog,
You really lifted my spirits by mentioning that you are able to get edible fruit from your own plants ...........................
~ because ~~~
by next Spring we will almost be neighbors .
Wheeeeeeeee :woohoonaner:
JoeS475
09-13-2006, 07:30 PM
Franks's bananas on their way to storage -----> :0519:
~Joe
bigdog
09-13-2006, 08:42 PM
Nucci, I haven't supported the pseudostems going back into the ground in the Spring one time yet. I fill the planting hole with all sorts of great organic matter, and some slow release Osmocote. Then, I pack some of the native clay around the base of the plant. Haven't had one knocked over yet, but I imagine that I've gotten lucky also. I have read, and will try it this year, that where bananas are commercially grown, they fruit earlier and produce bigger bunches if the plant is planted deeper in the hole. Of course, that is in tropical areas, where the soil doesn't ever get cold. I've always planted my bananas with the corm just a few inches below the surface. I am going to plant some quite a bit deeper this Spring and see what happens. Looks like I'll have a bunch of fruiting-sized pseudostems again next year, so I have a few to experiment with. I'm also going to use black plastic to warm up the soil in the Spring. We need to take advantage of any and all tricks to help us get fruit as early as possible here in zone 7. I just hope I don't get any real late bloomers this year, but i probably will. One is pushing a bloom out now, as a matter of fact. Wasted bananas! :2169:
Jeff, I'm sure I'll get tired of the routine someday. It's still fun though right now, and I have a healthy back, so I'll keep doing it. I really would like a house with a full-sized basement, and my next house will have to have that! Sure would make life a lot easier. I'm not growing Saba, but I did add Kandrian this year. It's still a relatively small plant, but I've seen full-sized pseudostems...HUGE! Not quite as big as Saba, but they are quite large! Thankfully, I only have one small pseudostem of that variety to deal with this Fall.
Scooterbug, where are you moving to? Glad you enjoyed the post! I'll post some pics of ripe fruit in November.
Joe, that is hilarious! :2623: Thankfully, I will only have to haul them a few feet this Fall, not 180 miles! :nanerwaveytrain:
momoese
09-13-2006, 09:00 PM
I have to say this post makes me a bit sad. I know once you cold weather people pull your plants it will only be me and a few others that will be posting here regularly. Summer sure is fun on this message board. I've really enjoyed seeing all you Banana nuts hard work pay of with nice plants and fruit. Don't be a stranger this winter! :nanadrink:
scooterbug
09-13-2006, 09:19 PM
bigdog, We are hunting for property in the Maryville area but not in town of course :ha: :ha: :ha:
I'm on my way down in 2 weeks to look around again ;-)
microfarmer
09-14-2006, 02:19 AM
Hey all. Sorry to hear you have to put up your bananas for the winter.
There is something you can do for an early jump on planting. I use black plastic to keep the weeds down and I just plant thru it.
I noticed that it also did a wonderful job of warming the soil in early spring so I could get my peppers and 'maters in the ground sooner.
I figure you zone map challenged could warm your soil and maybe tent or at the least block cold winds from your nanners to get more 'ground time' for flowers and fruit.
Just an idea...
What do you do with the ones with fruit? Just the same, or some special care?
Gard
bigdog
09-19-2006, 04:46 PM
Scooterbug, if you enjoy the mountains, you will love that area! It has some spectacular scenery, for sure.
Microfarmer, you must have missed a sentence in my last post. I mentioned that I'm going to be experimenting with black plastic in the Spring!
Gard, the ones that have produced fruit can be cut down, as that pseudostem will die anyway. I have one that's blooming now that won't have time to mature a buch, unfortunately. From what I've heard from others who have tried, it is fruitless (pun intended) to try to dig up a large, fruiting pseudostem and pot it up for the greenhouse or indoors. It simple doesn't respond well, and the fruit is stunted or drops off. A waste, yes, but that's one reason why I plant so many!
jeffreyp
09-20-2006, 07:47 AM
Bigd,
Have you tried banking some bales of hay against some of your orinoco stems?I bet the would help protect them through the winter. Also, I have heard the same response from others who've tried to dig up a fruiting stem - it's too much shock on the plant and the fruiting stalk just withers.:0493:
critterologist
09-25-2006, 01:52 PM
I'm glad I found this forum, and this thread! I was concerned that if I cut leaves off my bananas when I dug them for the winter (zone 6b in MD), I would set them back so that they wouldn't fruit. Hooray for finding out that it's not so! I got them (Apple, Ice Cream, and one that was supposed to be a Dwarf Orinocco but is the tallest of the bunch now so who knows what it really is) last fall, grew them inside over the winter, planted them out at 18-24 inches in spring... Now they are 9 to 12 feet tall (6 foot trunks, or I guess I should say psuedostems)!!! DH keeps looking at them and asking, so, what are you planning to do with them this winter? LOL
I am still debating.... I can haul them down to the basement (sunny window, temps between 55 and 70 degrees) and water sparingly to keep them semi-dormant... Or I can put them in the garage (no windows, so it'll be dark unless I put up a shop light for them, it's unheated but insulated so temps generally don't drop below 40, definitely doesn't freeze, but occasionally we get warm spells in winter so it might warm up to 65 degrees).
From reading through the above, it sounds like temperatures above 55 will make them come out of dormancy and then they will require some light, so maybe the garage isn't the best idea unless I put up a bank of florescents for them...
What does anybody think about letting them be semi-dormant in big tubs of potting mix in the basement? They put out several pups between them, so I may also hedge my bet by taking 1 pup of each variety inside (upstairs) to pot up in the morning room.
Those were wonderful pictures at the top of this thread, and I think I'll be more fearless now about digging my new bananas for the winter -- THANKS!
bigdog
09-25-2006, 05:50 PM
Critterologist, glad you enjoyed! I will say this about completely defoliating the plant before storing: Generally, in my southern zone 7a climate, I only get about 7-8 leaves, maybe 9, by the end of July. If a pseudostem is close to fruiting size, I seem to only get about 5 leaves before the bloom emerges. This is assuming that the bloom emerges by the end of July/early August. Usually they are not full-sized leaves either. The result of not having very many leaves at bloom time is smaller bunches of fruit. If you were able to keep a few green leaves over the winter (I have kept one leaf green on many plants under the house), it should give the plant a headstart in the Spring, and lead to bigger bunches.
For example, the first plant that bloomed for me this year had only about 6 feet of pseudostem, and 5 leaves when the bloom emerged. The bunch consisted of 5 fingers on one hand! The other 2 bunches were slightly better, but only two hands. This will vary according to the variety also. My observations are for Tall Orinoco.
I have a plant blooming right now that has a bloom twice the size of the previous blooms. It will probably have 5 or more hands, with 7 or more fingers per hand. It has probably ten leaves or so, maybe more.
I guess what I'm trying to say, lol, is that the more leaves the plant has at bloom time, the bigger the bunch will be.
Regarding your other questions - temps over 55F will not last long in your garage during the winter. Even if you do get an extended warm spell, with no water and no soil, the plant won't start growing usually. I kept two pseudostems in my garage last winter, and we had a mild January and mild overall winter. Neither plant grew even a tiny bit.
By all means, if you can leave them potted up with some leaves on them, in your basement, go ahead and do it! I just don't have the space for it.
BobbyinNY
09-27-2006, 09:06 AM
Ok, everyone....
Thanks to the great advice from Frank (Bigdog), I just dug this monster up... I had Pot-Planted it to try and contain the roots and was pleasantly surprised at how well they stayed intact... I had cut the plastic to allow for some expansion so that it wouldn't dry out and it seemed to really work... here are some of the pics...http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1351&cat=500&ppuser=107
BobbyinNY
09-27-2006, 09:09 AM
lets try this again...
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/data/500/thumbs/banana_w_leaves.jpg
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/data/500/thumbs/banana_wo_leaves.jpg
Frankallen
09-27-2006, 07:37 PM
Bigdog,
My "Tall Orinoco" had 6 leaves not counting the "Flag" leaf,when it bloomed this year. It has 4 hands with 29 fingers. When I stored it last year I cut all the leaves off and stored it in my outside Bldg. Just thought this may help you with your study.
Good Luck to all, this Winter,
Frank (The one from Bama)
bigdog
09-27-2006, 09:25 PM
Bobby, that's a monster, lol! Didn't realize you were digging it already. Must be getting pretty chilly there. Let us know how it does!
Frank, yours had about 2 more leaves than mine did then, I think. I'll have to go back out and count again! I think mine have 4 leaves, plus the flag. Thanks for the info!
BobbyinNY
09-27-2006, 10:44 PM
Bobby, that's a monster, lol! Didn't realize you were digging it already. Must be getting pretty chilly there. Let us know how it does!
Actually, I could've waited another month.. temps are about 72/55 now, but I have SOOOO much to get ready with over 100 tropical plants and palms - some that are over 20ft. and after this week I'll be ridiculously busy with work that I wouldn't have the time, so I figured I'd just get everything set up now so they're won't be any sudden cold spells that would make me cram 4 days worth of work into one.
Zac in NC
09-28-2006, 01:29 PM
Yeah Frank. Bobby's right. He is about crazy( well , its a good crazy) with all of the palms he plants out in the ground. I have seen his pics on the IPS board. I am glad you are planning ahead Bobby. I will dig mine when the temps start going consistantly into the 40s, because I am planning to keep them alive inside over the winter and maintain some foliage, since nothing is taller than maybe 4 feet right now. My Saba is still a little baby.....Next season, I bet its huge.
Zac
BobbyinNY
09-28-2006, 05:35 PM
hey Zac,
I was gonna wait till the 40's too, but I get nervous thinking it's a little too close to the frost temp and don't want to take the chance having to haul everything in my house for one night..... How are the temps now where you live in NC?... I've been talking to my friend in Charlotte and he says that the night temps are even a little colder than here on LI... but it warms up more during the day... the last few days have been around 75/60f, but we're taking a nose-dive tomorrow night to around 49f and the next 5-7 days after that will be 65/55 respectively.... It's all downhill from here though..
Bobby
Zac in NC
09-28-2006, 06:08 PM
We have had one or 2 nights dipping into the 40s( upper) and lots of night in the 50s. I did bring in My Amorphophallus titanum the other day for a few days until it warmed up a bit. I put it back out for a while today. I only have a few things in the ground to dig( A zebrina, a Saba and a Raja Puri) so its not that big of a rush.
Zac
JoeS475
09-29-2006, 07:47 PM
Our forcast says 41 for tonight, although at my house we usually read a few degrees lower than the prediction. I'll probably bring in the Zebrina in a few minutes since it is probably the least cold hardy banana I have. Makes me glad everything is in pots! The palms and bird of paradises will just have to deal with it. Very soon I think until I cut stuff up for storage! :banananinja:
~Joe
grammie
10-01-2006, 12:36 PM
okay, after thinking it over and begging, we decided to bring the 12' + Ice Cream in for one more winter. I'm afraid that under our house might be too cold, but I have a greenhouse. What if I laid it down on the floor (dirt) up next to the plastic? (we just brought the roof down, so no way it will stand up in there this year)
bigdog
10-02-2006, 09:55 PM
Grammie, I'd be very hesitant to place it directly on the dirt floor. I would raise it off of the ground with a few pieces of wood, an old tire, whatever. Other than that, your plan sounds good! Just as long as you don't get any frost or freezing temps in the greenhouse.
grammie
10-02-2006, 10:08 PM
thanks!!! one more question, should I cover it with plastic to keep it dry when I water the other plants? If I put it under my tables, I know that water would run onto it, at least a bit.
bigdog
10-03-2006, 06:29 PM
Wet=bad, at least as far as storing dormant goes. I wouldn't recommend plastic over the plant either. Sure, it would keep water runoff away from it, but it could also trap moisture underneath it. I would try to find a dry spot.
maesy
10-11-2006, 12:21 PM
Has anybody ever tried to overwinter the bananas bareroot dormant,without cutting the leafs off?
Or is that taking too much energie for the corm? :exercise:
Maesy
nucci60
10-18-2006, 10:58 AM
:cool: Hi bigdog! have you tried this overwintering method with musa zebrina? They are supposed to be very sensitive,but then again, I have no experience with this. I think this thread will be everlasting
bigdog
10-19-2006, 09:40 PM
Maesy, I have left one leaf on several pseudostems, and most made it through the entire winter. In fact, the ones that did stay green stayed that way for a couple of months after planting outside! I was going to try that with some of my larger plants this winter, but an early frost put a halt to that though.
Nucci, I have never grown m. zebrina. I do know that it is a tender, and from what I have been told by others, the pseudostem will more or less dessicate over the winter if stored under the house.
D'Andra
10-23-2006, 02:56 AM
So what happens when you store them dormant with all the leaves on?
Thanx so much for starting this thread!
And thanx so much to whoever put the sticky on it!
bigdog
10-23-2006, 11:51 AM
For Orinocos, I know at least one leaf has been able to make it through the winter still green, and stay green for a couple of months after planting back out in the spring. The lower leaves will surely die, but it may be possible to keep 2 or 3 leaves green. I was going to try it this winter, but an early frost cancelled my plans.
maesy
10-23-2006, 01:47 PM
We have had an unbeliveable October so far, with themperatures around 20 ° Celsius and the nights never below 10° C.
And so the Bananas still keep growing on and on! :banana_ba
The worst thing about growing bananas here is, that we have for 11 month south-west(spain) winds except the important month of may when the soil should start to warm up we get the wind from the north-east(russia).
Thats why our last possible frostdate is in the midle of may, sometimes even later.
On the 3. of june this year it was 0° (32° Fahrenheit)! :2715:
GAPEye
11-25-2006, 11:09 PM
Nice pictures Ronnie.
Mustang
11-26-2006, 10:42 AM
Thanks for your posts Bigdog. I'm trying to hibernate some Ensete Maureliis this year following your guidance. However, I don't have a cellar or crawl-space under the house so have resorted to putting them in an attic. So far, so good, apart from the largest Maurelii which has decided it wants to still grow and has put on a meter of leaf growth so far! I've put it back into the light and will leave it there until it starts to go to sleep, then will tuck it up with the rest.
Now just got to figure out how to keep the Ensete glaucum alive.
D'Andra
11-29-2006, 03:51 AM
The attic huh? I may just try that also. We don't have one on our house but we have a large workshop that might work. We are getting our first freeze tonight, so I'll be digging them up at sunrise. First freeze and it's almost December! Pretty cool. I'll try to get some pics if I have time.
modenacart
11-29-2006, 12:46 PM
I believe you can keep them in the garage too. I would keep them covered with a blanket though.
D'Andra
11-30-2006, 08:05 PM
HEY! I think modenacart was watching me!
I decided our shop was too cold so I put them in the garage. I really meant to cover them with a blanket but didn't get to it yet. Do you cover the entire plant?
I have the corms on the floor. Is that going to be a problem?
I was potting the last little plant (bird of paradise) in earthworms castings as it began to snow.
The cold front dropped us from 64f to 51f in less than an hour! It got down to 24f at our house. That gave us a wind chill almost in the single digits.
Remind me when it's 110f next summer not to complain.
Everything in our yard is now brown or bare except for the bamboo and weeds and it's going to be even colder tonight.
The good news though. All the plants are in and taken care of and we sent over 45 gallons of tomatoes to the homeless shelter and kept plenty for ourselves.
I will get them covered tonight and post pics of what I did as soon as the camera gets back home.
Thanx for the tip modenacart!
modenacart
12-01-2006, 10:46 AM
I would to simulate a hibernation environment, but I have no experience personally, just what I have read. I have keep plants in the crawl space without problems. Maybe someone with practical experience can give their opinion. I would put some newspaper or something between the corm and the floor for a little insulation. The floor's surface themperature might get pretty cold.
D'Andra
12-01-2006, 09:06 PM
You're so right. That floor was freezing cold this morning. I was thinking of putting down some wooden skids until I read your post. I actually have hundreds of pounds of newspaper I've been saving to put in our new worm beds. The last load of papers is sitting right next to the bananas. Why didn't I think of that?!
I have a plant light on a few feet away from them germinating some voodoo lilly bulbs, so I threw a blue plastic tarp over the bananas. The tarp lightly touches them in a few places, but I don't think it'll be a problem. The temp is staying between 40&50 so I think it's gonna be okay.
Thanx!
modenacart
12-01-2006, 09:22 PM
I tink it depends on the type, but it sounds like it will be ok to me.
sandy0225
01-12-2007, 08:08 AM
Try putting down some styrofoam sheet under your roots. That insulates it from the floor real well. You can get it at home depot, lowe's menards, etc. or if you go by a construction dumpster you can often get smaller pieces there!
D'Andra
01-13-2007, 02:22 AM
I've not thought of using foam, but that's a great idea. I put the corms on a stack of papers about a foot tall and that seemed to work great. Now, the problem is it's been around 70f for several days and I don't have any place to keep them cool. Any ideas or suggestions on what to do here?
I'm building a transfer cabinet for TC and underneath I'm making a growing area. The foam should work perfect for that! Again, great idea!
Thanx for the help.
MICHIGANANA
04-05-2007, 01:31 PM
Just wondering about the best way to wake these guys up in the spring(besides sunshine, warmth and h2o)? I'm in Michigan and have left them potted in sand/soil mixture. They have lost all their leaves and only about a 3-4 foot stem remains. They have been in my basement in above freezing temps. will they get enough photosynthesis and energy from the sun the stem gets? thank you.
bigdog
04-05-2007, 07:38 PM
First and foremost, make sure you are well past the threat of frost. I'm glad I haven't planted mine back out again, as we are forecasted by some to be 21F on Easter morning! Secondly, I would prepare your planting hole well in advance also, and cover it with some clear plastic to warm up the soil. When you are ready to plant them back out, cut the top of the pseudostem to make sure there is green (or white, yellow, etc.), and not black, in the center. If it is black, you need to cut until you find green or white. Peeling the outermost dead leaf sheaths off to expose the green trunk will help it to photosynthesize. Just don't yank too hard and peel live tissue off of the pseudostem. I take a sharp knife with me, and just cut dead tissue off.
Patty in Wisc
04-30-2007, 11:55 PM
BigDog, just want to thank you for starting this thread...I learned a lot, and have read it few times since last yr.
I have 2 Ice Cream from last June when they were 2 inches high. They were in my sunroom all winter with temps low 45F to about 55-60 high. They grew slow, but one (in 30 gal pot) got to be over 6 ft from soil. I just planted it out inground & I know it will really take off. In fall, it will be too big to get back into sunroom (12 1/2' ceiling). I have crawl space under SR but it's open & it will be too cold. I'm in zone 5 where we can easily get to below zeroF.
My question is, if I wrap it to make it dark, & lay it sideways on cool SR floor, would it go dormant or will the room be too warm? (45 to 55F). I do not have a garage, but have a uninsulated shed. To put there, I would really have to wrap it well! I know it's early, but like to think ahead.
Also, how do you acclimate your bananas to sunlight after storage?
Thanks much,
Patty (in Milwaukee)
bigdog
05-01-2007, 12:21 PM
Hi Patty,
Glad it was of some help to you. I think your plant would be fine on the SR floor with those temps. My garage is about the same temperature in the winter, and I stored several bananas in there two winters ago. My first time storing 'Ice Cream' in the crawl space was not too successful. The corm lived, and so did the main pseudostem, but there was a lot of dieback on the pseudostem. It was a little slow getting going in the spring too, but caught up just fine. This year, from that one corm, I have four 6 foot pseudostems going in the ground! I still haven't peeked at them yet. Too busy with finals right now. Next week should be the time for me to start planting.
As far as acclimating them to sunlight, here's what I do: Nothing! They don't seem to ever skip a beat either.
Patty in Wisc
05-01-2007, 08:33 PM
THANK YOU! That is the first concrete answer I got after asking this around the net! I will try to keep as many leaves on (to give it a head start next spring), keep it covered so it's dark, & let it sleep on floor.
I put it in the ground Sunday (whew, it was heavy even with most dirt off), and wouldn't you know we had 3/4 inch hail storm last night. It took it just fine. I'm sure I will need help getting it out of ground in fall, but worth it! Thanks again!
Patty
(Milwaukee)
D_&_T
07-02-2007, 09:43 PM
With us living in Northern Indiana, and getting an unknown variety of dwarf banana from a known greenhouse in our area. How well do they do in a room in our house for the winter? We got it about 3 weeks ago when it gets closer to frost time we will need to know how to care for it.
Dan & Tara
when get pic will post it:islandsharkbanana:
bigdog
07-03-2007, 04:39 PM
That's a loaded question, lol. It depends on the variety of banana, the size of the plant when you bring it in, and the conditions in the house. I would grow it outside in the ground for the next couple of months to get maximum growth out of it right now. Around mid-September (while it's still warm outside, so it will grow new roots), dig it up and pot it up into a pot that looks about 2 sizes too small, and use a very-well draining mix. The reason for that is to prevent overwatering. The smaller the pot, the less water for the soil to hold. If you have typical indoor winter conditions (72F, dry, low light), only water it when the soil is bone, bone dry. Basically, just enough to keep the leaves alive. The easiest way to kill a banana indoors is to overwater it.
Or, if planting it outside isn't an option, you could just leave it in a pot, but water and fertilize regularly (every couple of weeks) and put it out in full sun. You want to have the biggest, healthiest plant possible before you bring it in for the winter.
D_&_T
07-03-2007, 08:37 PM
thank you
now need to decide to repot or plant it for rest of summer!
we are working on some pics of it................believe it might be a DC or SDC by some pics on here and what I have read, my wife called the nursery, all the person she talked to know it is about 2 yrs old. and said to call back earlier in morning to get someone that knows more.
Dan
JoeS475
07-03-2007, 10:32 PM
Dan and Tara,
I'm in NJ, and the winters here are brutal. All of my bananas are currently potted. I personally find this easier for northern climates, because in the spring I can get the plants outdoors in the warm days, but bring them in overnight if its going to be too cold. In the fall this doesn't really apply, since the plants are too big to be dragged in and out of the house frequently. Also this saves you the back breaking work of digging them up from the ground.
For your banana to survive the winter growing indoors, like bigdog said, make sure they are very dry before watering. It is so easy to kill a banana that is indoors with too much water. They will also need a south facing window, the biggest and brightest you've got.
I lost my super dwarf cavendish, and high colour mini variant this winter, despite their small size. My regular dwarf cavendish and other larger bananas actually did better, even though their leaves were dusting the ceiling.
Best of luck with the plant! I use mine simply for the tropical look, since getting bananas in the north is very tough. But you never know, one or two of my survivors might possibly (with a little luck) bloom this summer...
Be careful, soon you'll end up buying random banana plants when and wherever you see them, its addictive!
Enough rambling from me, take care!
~Joe
D_&_T
07-03-2007, 10:49 PM
thanks Joe
so I think I'll repot as it dries out real quick, and might be close to being rootbound. we have had it 3 weeks with new leaf each week and 3 pups growing very well as well!!
Dan & Tara
microfarmer
07-05-2007, 08:58 PM
You may as well separate a couple pups and pot them up separately too. It'll give you more plants for next year and more possible successes:0497:
You'll then have extra bananas and you can trade someone here for their extra pups of a different variety...
like me perhaps...
I got a couple Ice Cream pups...
Jeff
P.s. Be careful, soon you'll end up buying random banana plants when and wherever you see them, its addictive!
What he said
D_&_T
07-05-2007, 09:48 PM
how big should pups be when they are cut off WITH corm.
would be interest in trading one pup.
Dan with his arm twisted by wife Tara (Dan is 6 ft with me 5 ft 3.......so me arm twisting him is a little out of the question!!)
Kylie2x
09-09-2007, 02:12 PM
This is such a wonderful thread.. I thought I would bump it up for everyone to share...Thanks James for making it available in the other post..
Hi Guy's
I'm new to this group and I live in Belgium(Europe). Can I dig out my ensete maurellii, dwarf cavendish, ensete glaucum, musa basjoo the same way that is shown in the fist message? I do have a basement. I'm al so looking for some different species of banana's. So if you are selling or want to trade. Please tell me.
Banana's rule :2623:
bigdog
09-18-2007, 09:34 PM
Robi, in my experience, the Ensete bananas store very well in the basement. Not too sure about Dwarf Cavendish, but I don't think the pseudostem holds up too well over the winter. The corm should be fine though, and grow back pretty quickly in the spring (I've done it with Super Dwarf Cavendish for years). I've only tried it with Musa basjoo once, and only because I was moving and didn't want to leave it behind. The pseudostem dessicated quite a bit, but it grew back fine the next year.
Jimzone7
09-19-2007, 04:05 PM
Thanks Bigdog for this thread, I'm new to this site and growing bananas, but I know the info you've posted is the best & clearest I've seen anywhere on the web. I haven't heard you mention your plans for your book in awhile, I hope you're still thinking about it.
In your last post I think you stated that when you lifted your basjoo to wintered over most of the PS died back.
I have 2- 6'(to the stem) basjoo and 6 pups, my main hope is to have as much size next year as possible. (I'm not even thinking about fruit yet)
I'm in zone 7
Should I lift it and remove some of the lower leaves and place it in my basement that will not freeze (probably 40 - 55 degrees) or should I cut it mulch it and leave it in the ground, but how will that affect it's size next season?
Jim
frankthetank
09-20-2007, 12:27 PM
BigDog-
Have you ever buried bananas? My newest thought is just to bury a couple of my Basjoo corms (everything else is coming inside and staying in a spare bedroom) about 4 or 5 feet deep. I had to take out some posts near the house and now have some very deep "craters" that i thought would work perfect for corm storage. I would mulch with leaves or something to fill the hole in and then put a sheet of plywood over the top and maybe a tarp over that. Maybe i'll toss a wireless weather reciever in one of the holes over the winter to track the temp? Frost line around here doesn't go deep if there is snowcover.
bigdog
09-20-2007, 06:49 PM
Thanks Bigdog for this thread, I'm new to this site and growing bananas, but I know the info you've posted is the best & clearest I've seen anywhere on the web. I haven't heard you mention your plans for your book in awhile, I hope you're still thinking about it.
In your last post I think you stated that when you lifted your basjoo to wintered over most of the PS died back.
I have 2- 6'(to the stem) basjoo and 6 pups, my main hope is to have as much size next year as possible. (I'm not even thinking about fruit yet)
I'm in zone 7
Should I lift it and remove some of the lower leaves and place it in my basement that will not freeze (probably 40 - 55 degrees) or should I cut it mulch it and leave it in the ground, but how will that affect it's size next season?
Jim
Jim, I'm glad to hear that it is helpful! The book idea is still just that...an idea. I'm in school at UT Knoxville full-time right now, so that eats up the majority of my time. Maybe one day. Thanks!
As for your M. basjoo, I'd leave it in the ground and mulch it really well. You can build a cage and fill with leaves like some do in order to save as much pseudostem as possible. The only reason I dug mine up was because of the move. Personally, I just mulch the base really well, then invert a trash bag full of leaves (with a hole big enough for the pseudostem in the bottom) over the top of the pseudostem (cutting the pseudostem back to a couple of feet). Digging it up also means that it will take much longer for it to re-establish in the spring.
Frank, the thought has crossed my mind, but it's more work than it's worth for me. Dragging them under the house is pretty hard work, but somehow I think burying them would be even more difficult.
natedogg1026
09-20-2007, 11:11 PM
Big Dog, Great pics and explanation! Same method I use here in Kansas. This year I'm gonna try one of those, kids toboggan sleds. Ya know, the plastic one's you get at Wally world. Tie a rope on that dude, load it up, and pull a load under, several at a time. We'll see how it works. Its gotta be easier on the back. But the thought of wintering other borderline hardy plants under the house is pretty smart. What about bulbs or elephant ear tubers? What do ya think about wintering these that way: Plumeria, Majesty palm, and hardy potted plants? And my last question is, my Siam Ruby. I got it about a month ago from P.D.N. its about 2ft. and has put on two leaves so far. Do you think it would be too fragile or has it grown strong enough? The reason I ask all this is because I don't have the space to bring all of them in and am seeking an alternative method. Thanx!! --NNNNNNNNNAAATTTEEEEEEEE:2185:
JoeS475
09-21-2007, 01:58 PM
Nate, I can't speak for the other plants, but Siam Ruby is worth making space for. My gut says it won't store well at all, although we'll never really know until someone tries. But any 2' banana is probably too small to make it.
My 2 cents,
~Joe
bigdog
10-02-2007, 06:12 PM
Nate, out of the plants you mentioned, the ones I know you can store like bananas are Plumeria, EE bulbs and other bulbs. In fact, I have a couple Plumerias that are going under the house this fall too. If you try that with your Majesty Palm, however, you will find a really dead palm in the spring, lol! I don't know about the "hardy potted plants" you mentioned, you'll have to be more specific.
Oh, and I surely wouldn't try it with a young 'Siam Ruby'! I'd wait until I had several feet of pseudostem before even thinking about it. With the prices down and availability up now, I guess it wouldn't be such a tragic loss as it would have been about a year ago. They are TC plants also, so there isn't enough corm for it to store energy in.
Big Dog, Great pics and explanation! Same method I use here in Kansas. This year I'm gonna try one of those, kids toboggan sleds. Ya know, the plastic one's you get at Wally world. Tie a rope on that dude, load it up, and pull a load under, several at a time. We'll see how it works. Its gotta be easier on the back. But the thought of wintering other borderline hardy plants under the house is pretty smart. What about bulbs or elephant ear tubers? What do ya think about wintering these that way: Plumeria, Majesty palm, and hardy potted plants? And my last question is, my Siam Ruby. I got it about a month ago from P.D.N. its about 2ft. and has put on two leaves so far. Do you think it would be too fragile or has it grown strong enough? The reason I ask all this is because I don't have the space to bring all of them in and am seeking an alternative method. Thanx!! --NNNNNNNNNAAATTTEEEEEEEE:2185:
DaveK
10-12-2007, 06:11 AM
I read JoeReal's post and I also brought my plants in the basement for the winter. I have a grow light on them and the temp. right now is about 70 F and 58% humidity. I have some small plants about 1ft tall, a basjoo a raja and a candavish I also have 2 plants that are about 3 ft tall that I have no idea what they are. This my first year overwintering, It's been a couple of days and the 2 larger plants are loosing some leaves, is this normal? The temp at night before I brought them in was in the high 40's for a couple of days so I don't know if there some shock damage. My question is should I leave the light on and will they continue to grow in that environment? Thanks
bigdog
10-12-2007, 09:15 AM
I would leave the grow light on them, Dave, but greatly reduce the watering to almost none. Just water when the soil is bone-dry and the plant starts to look stressed (and then use some lukewarm water). They may grow a very little bit, but that's not really the goal. The goal is just to keep them alive through the winter until next spring. Good luck. It is more difficult with plants that size, but entirely possible.
frankthetank
10-12-2007, 09:30 AM
I kept a SDC in a cold bedroom (temps in the 50's) without ANY light except for the window and it did fine. I don't remember EVER watering it for the entire winter! and i also don't remember it dropping any leaves. Same will happen this year, except now i've got even more. I don't try for winter growth, just keeping them alive is good enough for me. Too expensive to give them the growing conditions they would like (up here it is!).
mikevan
10-12-2007, 12:12 PM
I kept a SDC in a cold bedroom (temps in the 50's) without ANY light except for the window and it did fine. I don't remember EVER watering it for the entire winter! and i also don't remember it dropping any leaves. Same will happen this year, except now i've got even more. I don't try for winter growth, just keeping them alive is good enough for me. Too expensive to give them the growing conditions they would like (up here it is!).
Below 55F or so, nanners stop growing altogether so that would work if you can maintain that cool temperature or thereabouts. It gets warm in the winter here in Texas, so I have to resort to greenhousing or wrapping.
Be well,
Mike
shopgirl2
10-22-2007, 09:23 AM
You're so right. That floor was freezing cold this morning. I was thinking of putting down some wooden skids until I read your post. I actually have hundreds of pounds of newspaper I've been saving to put in our new worm beds. The last load of papers is sitting right next to the bananas. Why didn't I think of that?!
I have a plant light on a few feet away from them germinating some voodoo lilly bulbs, so I threw a blue plastic tarp over the bananas. The tarp lightly touches them in a few places, but I don't think it'll be a problem. The temp is staying between 40&50 so I think it's gonna be okay.
Thanx!
have you thought of using cheap roofing paper and wrapping the bananas in it? I mean, the whole plant. That ought to keep them well insulated and warm. Wrap the banana tree lenthwise until you have used the whole width and staple the paper.
frankthetank
10-30-2007, 01:24 PM
My bananas are put to sleep in a dark spot in the basement. WOW. I can't believe how heavy those things are. I dried them out in garage for a week to get some of the soil off the roots, but not much came off. I left the one Basjoo about 5 feet in height. Next year i will not do this. I will chance them in the ground. Way too much work to save them. I'll have enough pups, etc to winter over next year, so i'll then be able to afford to lose some.
DaveK
10-30-2007, 07:18 PM
Thanks for the advise, the plants have all lost leaves but some look like they have stabilized (I hope) not much to do but wait it out and see what happens. I thought about going on the offensive and watering like they were outside since it's about 70 in the basement and the grow light is on for about 12 hours but now I'm just gonna leave em alone.
cortejuan
11-07-2007, 04:59 PM
Hello,
first of all I am new on this forum (and I am French)
I have a balbisiana which seems to be a "neue art" because it looks like yours. Do you know what is the lowest temperature it can bear?
It is for the moment in a pot but I would like to plant it outside next year. I live in eastern France zone 6/7 with strong winters (lowest temperature about -18 C degrees.
Bye
bigdog
11-07-2007, 08:25 PM
Hello,
first of all I am new on this forum (and I am French)
I have a balbisiana which seems to be a "neue art" because it looks like yours. Do you know what is the lowest temperature it can bear?
It is for the moment in a pot but I would like to plant it outside next year. I live in eastern France zone 6/7 with strong winters (lowest temperature about -18 C degrees.
Bye
Welcome to the forum! I haven't planted any of my Musa balbisiana 'Neue Art' yet, so I'm not sure. I think they would be good to at least a zone 8a though, and probably zone 7 with some protection. I'll find out next year. By the way, the other name for this banana is M. balbisiana 'Gigantia' (or 'Gigantea', not sure which). Most Musa balbisiana look very similar though when young, so unless you bought seeds that were labaled as such, no telling what you have.
Patty in Wisc
11-08-2007, 01:46 AM
Hi All,
haven't posted here since last Spring when I transplanted my 2 IC bananas inground. I dug them up last week or so, & one is in 5 gal. pot with little soil around, & bigger 1 is laying on west side of sunroom floor on it's side with as much soil I could shake off. The rootball is wrapped in a towel with tarp under. I was surprised at how small the rootballs were! That one was 6 ft tall when planted & is now 12 1/2 ft tall --- that is the one I have dormant laying down. It is bigger because it was in a much bigger pot last winter & will not fit in sunroom in pot. It also has 4 pups - largest is about 3 ft. tall. I hear that they get their energy from mother plant so decided to leave them on.
I cut all but 3 top leaves off of both & the one that is forced into dormancy, I cut the 3 leaves in half.
I might try cutting off 2nd biggest pup & pot it up for a Christmas gift to a friend. (should I take the chance?)
I twisted my left ankle about 5 weeks ago & fractured & tore ligaments in left ankle, so it was a real chore digging & carting them up 4 steps (dolly) to SR. but not so bad! I sure hope that big IC will gorw back next spring & produce 'nannas next year!
Any opinions are welcome.....thanks again Bigdog!
To DaveK...don't water like they are outside. They KNOW it is winter & will be semi-dormant (my opinion).
Pintandeago...no grass is GOOD! I killed all of mine & it is now all wood chips now. YEAAY -- no mowing!
Frankthetank...we are in same boat huh? Sorta? (Hey, how 'bout those Packers & Brett Favre?!)
Question: how do you cut 'nanna plants back from 6-12 ft tall to 2 ft & still have them grow? I thought you have to leave at least the stem growing from top leaf. Isn't this the pseudostem that can't be cut off?
Thanks much...am learning a lot from here & will let you know how my plants overwinter.
I also have a double Mahoi potted that did real well potted over summer. It's 2 lower leaves are yellow but I think it's too moist. Anyone ever tasted one of those? Thanks again.
Patty (geeze, it's getting cold...1st night of frost tonight!)
mikevan
11-08-2007, 08:58 AM
Question: how do you cut 'nanna plants back from 6-12 ft tall to 2 ft & still have them grow? I thought you have to leave at least the stem growing from top leaf. Isn't this the pseudostem that can't be cut off?
Cutting the stem shorter won't harm that stem so long as it's cut above the originating point of the leaves and it's not about to flower - it'll continue growing from where you cut it. A couple or three feet is a hard cut-back - I'd go for four feet, but I've chopped mine before and had them continue growing from the center. The only time you want to really avoid cutting is when you think that a flower-stalk is coming up the center. If you cut the flower-stalk, that stem will die and you won't get nanners from it. So - younger stems can be cut back if needed, but older stems should be kept intact. Of course, it takes a lot of energy to put out new leaves and heal the wound when there are no leaves feeding the process, so don't do it often or you'll likely end up with a weaker plant and smaller bunch of nanners.
Be well,
Mike
bencelest
11-09-2007, 09:21 AM
Cutting the stem shorter won't harm that stem so long as it's cut above the originating point of the leaves and it's not about to flower - it'll continue growing from where you cut it. A couple or three feet is a hard cut-back - I'd go for four feet, but I've chopped mine before and had them continue growing from the center. The only time you want to really avoid cutting is when you think that a flower-stalk is coming up the center. If you cut the flower-stalk, that stem will die and you won't get nanners from it. So - younger stems can be cut back if needed, but older stems should be kept intact. Of course, it takes a lot of energy to put out new leaves and heal the wound when there are no leaves feeding the process, so don't do it often or you'll likely end up with a weaker plant and smaller bunch of nanners.
Be well,
Mike
What I've been wondering about is how can you tell if there is a flower-stalk inside the p-stem. Is there any slight bulge there? Or any sign?
I have a dwarf Brazilian that is ready to bloom and I keep on watching any tell-tale sign for the flag or shorter leaves but I can't tell by looking at the p-stem if there is a flower ready to come up.
Patty in Wisc
11-10-2007, 04:49 AM
Thanks Mike.
Good guestion Benny! Am wondering the same thing.
Patty
bencelest
11-12-2007, 11:22 AM
Patty:
I guess we'll never know and will keep on wondering.
mikevan
11-12-2007, 04:00 PM
Patty:
I guess we'll never know and will keep on wondering.
You'll know when your nanner flowers. You won't see any more sign of the flag leaf coming that you see from regular leaves, and the flower either - if there's any change it's very imperceptible. Unless the flower chokes and splits the stem, that is.
Be well,
Mike
jeff tn
11-14-2007, 03:26 PM
I hate digging them up too.The yard is not the same without them:2141: .I put mine in the garage where there is heat.Cant wait til April.Thanks for sharing.
bikoro child
11-15-2007, 05:14 PM
HI everyone ...today was the d day for protecting my bananas .First freeze is coming so you can see what i've done here/http://gardenbreizh.org/photos/ryan/album-5397.html
mcollum83
03-11-2008, 03:54 PM
this is a very imformative thread...thankyou to all of you putting all this imformation down. I have a question for you all. I live in zone four...can I plant mine outdoors as long as I bring them in to winter dormant in my basement when temps are near freezing? What if my basement gets above 55 degrees because a heater duct runs down there? Any information to help me would be great. Thank you all
D_&_T
03-11-2008, 05:15 PM
Depends on variety of bananas you have, if you know what kind try reading about them on other threads or in the wiki.
stumpy4700
05-18-2008, 11:29 AM
Thanks bigdog, While searching on how to winterize my bananas is the only way I found this must-have site! This post should be a must read for anyone who is thinking about growing bananas, so for the entire group of newbie's I "Thank-You" . I too live in the Nashvile area and last year I brought my 2 Bananas in the sunroom. They were only about 2 ft tall so they didn't take up much space.They did survive that but I put one out too early and 1 died. So far this year I'm up to 6 Plants so I might have to try the garage. There is no telling how many banana lives you have save but I just want you to know that your time was well spent posting this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:2785:
douglas gray
08-20-2008, 10:20 PM
Joe, Big Dog, that is great info'. I killed the only nana of size last winter. now I have lots of little ones I want to keep. do you still suggest bare root, dry & dark if they are small for overwintering. I do have a greenhouse for option....thanks again both of you excellent for novices !!!
bananoloco
09-16-2008, 06:26 AM
Seems like this thread has been going for years and I must say that I wish I had had this information when I first started...it would have saved alot of years of trial and error. Great work big dog!
I started doing the crawl space thing and quickly realized that I was breaking my back. So now, I cut mine down to fit my 9 ft garage and store them vertically against the wall. It makes it easier to roll in and out on a dolly.
In terms of temperatures... I put a cover over the windows and keep it as dark as possible. The temperature rarely goes below 50 and seems to stay in the low 60's for the bulk of winter. In fact, sometimes at the end of Feb and in March it will even go into the 70's. At first I was worried about the temps being too high but it seems that the mysore, orinco, raja's, and ice cream have no problems with it. On the other hand, I can't seem to get the dwarf cavendish to overwinter well and have all but given up on this type.
mikevan
09-16-2008, 09:40 AM
I started doing the crawl space thing and quickly realized that I was breaking my back. So now, I cut mine down to fit my 9 ft garage and store them vertically against the wall. It makes it easier to roll in and out on a dolly.
In terms of temperatures... I put a cover over the windows and keep it as dark as possible. The temperature rarely goes below 50 and seems to stay in the low 60's for the bulk of winter. In fact, sometimes at the end of Feb and in March it will even go into the 70's. At first I was worried about the temps being too high but it seems that the mysore, orinco, raja's, and ice cream have no problems with it. On the other hand, I can't seem to get the dwarf cavendish to overwinter well and have all but given up on this type.
A 16' trailer would work too so you don't have to cut your taller nanners back as much. Let it hang over some and you can keep 20' nanners even. If you have room in the garage, of course. Knowing most nanner-heads, we'll park the BMW outside and put the nanners in the garage over the winter. :ha:
It's good that the DC doesn't get very big - you could probably put that in a large pot and in a greenhouse over the winter.
Be well,
Mike
JCDerrick
09-16-2008, 11:26 AM
I just read through the whole thread for the first time, and I agree this is one of the best threads on the forum. I hope this one keeps going - full of good info. After doing a lot of reading on this forum I've decided to dig up a lot of my larger bananas this year and preserve the full p-stem. I figure I'm young and might as well do the grunt work on saving them while I can - and it'll pay off in the spring with a nice full p-stem growing again.
Franklin
09-19-2008, 04:56 PM
Hi everyone. I'm hooked. I grew my first Musa basjoo this year and it's now at least 7 feet tall. Here's were I need help. The tree is in the ground. I'm in zone 6 along the Connecticut coast. The catalog where I bought the sappling claims the plant can withstand -20 degrees F. It seems hard to believe. What should I do to protect this beautiful banana tree? I was able to get one of the pups transplanted to a pot that I could bring in just in case. I know you folks will be able to guide me. Thanks!
JCDerrick
09-19-2008, 07:54 PM
Lots of good methods are discussed here on the forums, do a search to find the best method for your area.
You probably will need to mulch a good bit heavier than we do here for basjoo if you want to keep any of the p-stem alive. If you're not concerned about the p-stem, but just want to keep the banana alive in general, you could probably just put a few inches of hay/leaves on the surface and it'd be fine. Basjoo are pretty tough and can survive very cold temps. How much you want to keep above the surface is up to you - the methods I use always preserve as much of the p-stem as possible.
Edit - here's another good page with photos:
Protecting cold hardy bananas (http://www.cooltropicalplants.com/Protecting-cold-hardy-bananas.html)
v1rtu0s1ty
10-08-2008, 07:48 PM
Good evening folks. I read bigdog's first post about how he does his overwintering. Looking at his pictures, the leaves are still very healthy. So am I correct that even if they're not dormant yet, you can start digging and knocking the soil around the roots? When you do this and put them in a cold free-frost dark area and not even a single drop of water, that's the time the banana tree will go dormant. Am I correct?
Oh, I also couldn't visualize how to plant them in spring if they are like 7 ft tall since their roots are short or are dead. How will it be able to grasp the soil? Do you stake it?
Thanks!
ktbown
10-09-2008, 05:00 PM
Hello All...... just dug up some banana plants 2 fairly large ice cream , and a bunch of EV's .....going to store under the house as bigdog has been doing.. kinda nervous about 6 months with no water.....this thread is really informative..... thanks again for all the info
Patty in Wisc
10-14-2008, 11:00 PM
Virtuosity (sp?) & Kent, don't worry! Yes, you can dig up a healthy growing nanna & shake off all/most dirt on rootball & it will just go to sleep in a cool dark place. It will know that winter is around the corner. It won't need water. I was leary too, but it works.
You are both in warmer climates than me, so maybe it's a little soon for you to dig them up? I have one still inground but will dig it up tomorrow & pot it to go in sunroom. This year, I will keep it potted for winter. I figure the more time it has growing, the sooner it will flower.
Last year I laid it on cool sunroom floor to sleep & covered it to keep it dark.
I potted it up in late March or April (in sunroom) & gave it a little water & it sprung a leaf very soon....it just woke up & had a early start for summer. Then after letting it get used to outdoors, I replanted inground end of May & it took off. I sure am hoping for a flower next year!
Patty
v1rtu0s1ty
10-16-2008, 03:27 AM
Virtuosity (sp?) & Kent, don't worry! Yes, you can dig up a healthy growing nanna & shake off all/most dirt on rootball & it will just go to sleep in a cool dark place. It will know that winter is around the corner. It won't need water. I was leary too, but it works.
You are both in warmer climates than me, so maybe it's a little soon for you to dig them up? I have one still inground but will dig it up tomorrow & pot it to go in sunroom. This year, I will keep it potted for winter. I figure the more time it has growing, the sooner it will flower.
Last year I laid it on cool sunroom floor to sleep & covered it to keep it dark.
I potted it up in late March or April (in sunroom) & gave it a little water & it sprung a leaf very soon....it just woke up & had a early start for summer. Then after letting it get used to outdoors, I replanted inground end of May & it took off. I sure am hoping for a flower next year!
Patty
Thanks Patty.
What about my second question, can you please share how I would plant them come spring assuming they're 7 or 8 ft tall? Do I bury the pstem 1 or 2 ft below so that wind won't be able to take them or blown them down?
Patty in Wisc
10-16-2008, 01:22 PM
Good point. The stem on mine is now 5ft & overall height is prolly just over 8ft. Going out now to dig it up & pot it. They do have shallow roots but the rootball is heavy. There might be some concern when you first plant it if there is a big wind storm ahead. I didn't plant any deeper than just above root ball.
How about a big stake next to it when you plant next spring!? I had no problem with wind taking it down this year, but I may put a treated 2X4 next to rootball & tie onto it next summer. Thanks for the idea...better safe than sorry!
Patty
Patty in Wisc
10-16-2008, 04:15 PM
Here's a pic of the freshly dug up I.C. nanna. You can see the pup still attached (leaf unfurling) & the rootball is sitting on the dolly. The tree in center is a pup I chopped off about 2 months ago. The one on right is Dbl Mahoi. The big IC is now in pot & in sunroom for winter.
If this doesn't flower next year, it will take more than just me to dig & pot it!
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y202/Patty_in_Wisc/Bananapups.jpg
v1rtu0s1ty
10-16-2008, 07:00 PM
Ah, I wasn't aware before that folks here stake it when they replant their bananas. Thanks for the tips! :)
Patty in Wisc
10-16-2008, 07:17 PM
I wasn't either, but it sounds like a good idea!
Heater
11-01-2008, 05:56 PM
Dug up my bananas and put them under the house for the winter today. I hope it wasn't too early, but we've had our frosts start here in NC. This is the first time I've tried the digging up so I hope and pray it works. The biggest (which was a bear to move) was about 12-14 feet tall.
Normally, I just cut them down and mulch them big time. Man, I hope this works.
Before
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/supermahn1971/Bananas/Before.jpg
After
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/supermahn1971/Bananas/Backyardafter.jpg
Nestled for their winter slumber
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/supermahn1971/Bananas/Bananasunderhouse.jpg
Patty in Wisc
11-02-2008, 10:40 PM
Don't let the rootball get wet. And, maybe cover it to keep it dark & keep frost out.
Heater
11-03-2008, 09:17 AM
While I'm here -- can anyone tell me what kind of banana I have on the lef there?
frog7994
11-06-2008, 11:11 AM
Any one have a comment or openion my Rhino Horn? Over the last 2 weeks I got some cool weather here I'm in zone 10 but in the morning I can see my breath. The AF is really taking a beating are they that cold sensitive?
v1rtu0s1ty
11-07-2008, 02:45 AM
Good evening folks. Here is my overwintering in the ground experiment for a 4 month old 2 ft p-stem Basjoo. We'll see if it's going to survive our zone 5a winter. I put mulch around the base then covered it with insulation, then covered it with trash can then finally covered it with trash bag. I'll post pics in May 2009 either dead or alive. I'm sure this can serve as a lesson. So, don't follow my experiment for now. Hehehe. :ha:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn134/s1mpl3k1d/protectingbanana20081013pic1.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn134/s1mpl3k1d/protectingbanana20081013pic2.jpg
Patty in Wisc
11-07-2008, 05:16 AM
That handsom young man looks too proud of a job well done. I'll bet he did all that insulating!!!
I'm glad you are trying this. I just read about basjoo & 2 places say they can survive winter into zone 3, & maybe only some leaves will die ---I don't believe that! Am looking Fwrd to May. Good luck.
BTW when it snows, pile all you can on it for more insulation.
jeffreyp
11-20-2008, 11:55 AM
I would suggest using a pipe heating cable to wrap around the stem (set the thermostat to 40 degrees.)
dablo93
11-21-2008, 02:29 PM
yesterday i brought the last bananas inside because the temperature was already for a long time betwen the 0 and 10 celcius and my zebrina was getting softer so im just right on time.
only the basjoo is still standing outside, he will stay the whole winter outside. this week we get frost, around -2 and snow so we'll see how it will look after that:)
it doesnt get any protection for -2.
Pamlico Betty
11-22-2008, 12:15 PM
Great thread! Most of my tropicals are planted at my coastal cottage. We are experiencing hard freezing temps a month and a half early this year. Tues I drove nearly 6 hrs round trip to save my favorite bananas. Finished digging by flashlight. It's comforting to know what some may view as extreme measures is considered the norm for this board.
Mitzi
Panaroma
11-22-2008, 03:09 PM
I did some insulating experiments myself in in the past. Insulation is great but one has to allow somekind of airmovement. Prone to rotting is the main problem. So always insulate and circulate, works best for me.
hilashes
01-17-2009, 05:31 PM
Happy New Year everyone! I joined in October with a brief intro....I'm from Vancouver Canada, zone 8 and a newbie to owning my first banana- a Musa Basjoo. I Love this forum and thanks again to a few members for their great advice when I joined, on how to overwinter in our area. After my post I ended up buying a 'banana jacket', retailing at $19 cdn. I pruned all the leaves and used them to mulch all around, covered the mother plant with this insulated black tube. I stuffed a couple of plastic grocery bags through the top to keep it dry inside, also keeping it ventilated. I left the very small pups exposed (the nursery said they'll be fine and come back in the spring).
.. having said that...
Vancouver experienced what was the most bizarre winter since 40 years ago, with unusual night time temps dropping to -20C in some areas, with snow at least 60cm high within 2 week period. No one was prepared for this so us banana lovers are pretty much bracing ourselves for the spring time to see if everything survived it all. Man, talk about anxiety!
Now a lot of the snow has been washed away by tons of rain and our temperatures have stabilized to a normal range. I had to stand the Basjoo back to its upright position after it flopped over from the storms. I think it's actually ok! Here is a picture of the banana after I covered it back in October, way before all the extreme temps and snowfall.
Stay warm and looking forward to meeting more of you!
From the Great North West Coast,
Heidi :coldbanana:
chong
01-17-2009, 10:19 PM
Hello Heidi,
The small pups are the ones that require greater protection than the big Mama corm. Oh! well, the worst may have passed. I just hope the little pups survived the recent freeze. I work with someone whose wife lives in Vancouver and goes home over there during the weekends and holidays. He tells me that the snow was pretty bad over there during the holidays. He said it was even worse than the one we had here in the Seattle area.
Nice to hear from you!
Chong
hilashes
01-17-2009, 10:41 PM
Hi Chong! thanks for the feedback...oh no I'm doomed. lol Here's keeping our fingers crossed for the spring! I was told that as long as the mother is protected the rest will just come back. In our zone, that is probably true if we hadn't experienced the harsh weather. I was watching the Seattle area during the holidays and noticed we DID have it worse than you! eesh. I'm hoping that was a once-in-a 50-year incident. If they survive this one they will most likely endure any other from here on.
Good to meet you Chong! Hope you are warming up like we are!
From the North West Coast,
Heidi:coldbanana:
chong
01-17-2009, 11:54 PM
Hello again Heidi,
Yes, indeed, if those puppies survived that blast of sub-zero weather without protection, they certainly can survive our normal weather here.
Yes, we're warming up a little here, thank you. Although there are mornings where we still get 28°-30°F (-2 to -1°C) temperatures. And occsional snow. And I still wear my woolen overcoats. Back in the early 80s, I used to fly to Barrow, Alaska, wearing only a suit and a raincoat, and I felt comfortable. Now, I feel as if I just came back from the tropics. Must be that Global Warming thing, eh? (I couldn't help that one!)
I'm very pleased to meet you also. Hopefully, we can get together this summer for a mini-convention, or just meet with the other Northwesterners. Inoneer, from Vancouver, and I were tallking about this briefly a few months ago, when he got married. I guess there are more of you members from B.C. now, than in WA.
Warm regards,
Chong
hilashes
01-18-2009, 12:09 AM
Chong,
That certainly does sound like a fun idea for the summer! Inoneer was a Vancouver member I met last Oct. when I joined. I'm looking forward to meeting more from here, I don't think there's nearly enough!
Ah yes the "Global Warming Thing"...lol I'm with you on that one! :ha:
Our AM temps are the same as yours, although we haven't seen anymore snow. I'm sure from here on will be the typical rainy weather. I'll take it over snow anyday, as will my Basjoo! :ha:
Take care Chong and talk again soon. Stay warm!
Heidi
Chironex
01-18-2009, 12:17 AM
I gotta say that you did the nicest job wrapping your banana. That's so neat and tidy looking. At the risk of sounding biased, you can tell that it was done by a woman. A man would have duct tape all around it, uneven edges, plastic hanging from top and bottom, blowing in the wind, 3 different colors of plastic, etc, etc. :ha::ha::ha:
hilashes
01-18-2009, 01:21 AM
:ha: LOL I like you Chironex (Scot)! I hear where you're coming from! Pleased to meet you, I look forward to more of your posts! :ha:
Heidi
I gotta say that you did the nicest job wrapping your banana. That's so neat and tidy looking. At the risk of sounding biased, you can tell that it was done by a woman. A man would have duct tape all around it, uneven edges, plastic hanging from top and bottom, blowing in the wind, 3 different colors of plastic, etc, etc. :ha::ha::ha:
Whats wrong with duct tape and 3 different colors of plastic?
hilashes
01-18-2009, 11:33 AM
Hi Bob! it all depends on the colour palette of course! :ha:
Glad I met this bunch :bunchonanas:
Heidi
Chironex
01-18-2009, 03:49 PM
Thanks Heidi! I equate it to how I wrap presents versus the ladies at the giftwrap department. Hehe! I think gift bags were created for men so that they would not have to wrap in gift paper, wouldn't you agree?
chong
01-18-2009, 05:51 PM
Hi Bob! it all depends on the colour palette of course! :ha:
Glad I met this bunch :bunchonanas:
Heidi
TOUCHÉ! HEIDI, TOUCHÉ!
hilashes
01-18-2009, 09:36 PM
Hey thanks Chong.. :ha:
And yes I completely agree Scot!
Heidi
Jack Daw
02-09-2009, 12:49 PM
I can't help but think, that Frank's (bigdog) way is probably the easiest and most efficient. No rotting, no air ventilation problems...
Since I'm in the zone where I need to plan overwintering, not just leave bananas outside, I will try next winter both methods, when I have enough bananas and enough spare ones.
I'll let you know then.
mskitty38583
02-11-2009, 03:49 AM
heck here in a month and a half it will be time to wake the nanas up for spring.:nanadrink:
sunsetsammy
02-17-2009, 01:02 AM
What kind of luck are people having with Ensete Maurelli - Red Abyssinian when using this method?
Last year I stored about 6 one year old plants and all made it except two. They were all stored bareroot at about 10C. On the ones that lived the stems stayed red/green all winter despite no leaves or watering. The two that died kind of lost their color and eventually rotted.
This year I have a couple of the same plants now two years old and being stored in the same way. These two are now losing their color and I expect they'll be rotten come spring. The stems on these ones are about a basketball's diameter.
I did place them upside down to try and drain some excess water out in the fall but there is just so much water in these things, they are huge! Anyhow I'm wondering if there is anything I can do to save these plants.
I'm wondering also if storing them hanging upside down might help. It just seems there is so much water in the trunk of these plants. Some of it must seep back to the corm and start to rot once the plant goes dormant. Does that make sense?
adrift
02-17-2009, 07:05 PM
A man would have duct tape all around it, uneven edges, plastic hanging from top and bottom, blowing in the wind, 3 different colors of plastic, etc, etc. :ha::ha::ha:
Wait, I got lost. I thought that we were talking bananas and now you describe my car. Can we stick to a subject here, guys?
buzzwinder
02-17-2009, 07:25 PM
KJ :ha: , :bananas_b
bigdog
02-17-2009, 08:20 PM
What kind of luck are people having with Ensete Maurelli - Red Abyssinian when using this method?
Last year I stored about 6 one year old plants and all made it except two. They were all stored bareroot at about 10C. On the ones that lived the stems stayed red/green all winter despite no leaves or watering. The two that died kind of lost their color and eventually rotted.
This year I have a couple of the same plants now two years old and being stored in the same way. These two are now losing their color and I expect they'll be rotten come spring. The stems on these ones are about a basketball's diameter.
I did place them upside down to try and drain some excess water out in the fall but there is just so much water in these things, they are huge! Anyhow I'm wondering if there is anything I can do to save these plants.
I'm wondering also if storing them hanging upside down might help. It just seems there is so much water in the trunk of these plants. Some of it must seep back to the corm and start to rot once the plant goes dormant. Does that make sense?
Sammy, all I can tell you is my experience with Ensete bananas. I have given no thought whatsoever to them rotting in the way you mention. I've stored them standing up in pots, and they started growing in the spring. I've stored them bareroot lying on their side and they grow in the spring. I've done this with E. glaucum, E. ventricosum, and E. 'Maurelii'. I've even had them start growing under the house! In my humble opinion, Ensete and Musella are the two easiest genera to store in this manner. Musa cultivars and species vary widely. M. acuminata types don't do as well as M. balbisiana types in my experience. The bigger the pseudostem, the better chance you have. Also, with the less likely to store well cultivars, you may want to keep them a bit warmer than the others (maybe wrap them or throw a blanket over them, store them in a warm corner, etc.); you'll also want to cut all of the leaves off of them. With Orinoco, I've gotten away with leaving 2 or even three leaves on a pseudostem to give it a headstart in the spring, but this doesn't work well with some others. In fact, it can be quite devastating to them. When in doubt, I cut ALL of the leaves off.
If you think about it, a banana plant is about 93% water, so you don't want it to lose this water! That is what makes up almost all of the pseudostem. I suspect that you have something else going on if they are rotting. Check your temps with a thermometer. How humid is it where you are storing them? Where are you storing them? I can't imagine that the water from the pseudostem is causing them to rot.
Frank
sunsetsammy
02-23-2009, 03:19 PM
Sammy, all I can tell you is my experience with Ensete bananas. I have given no thought whatsoever to them rotting in the way you mention. I've stored them standing up in pots, and they started growing in the spring. I've stored them bareroot lying on their side and they grow in the spring. I've done this with E. glaucum, E. ventricosum, and E. 'Maurelii'. I've even had them start growing under the house! In my humble opinion, Ensete and Musella are the two easiest genera to store in this manner. Musa cultivars and species vary widely. M. acuminata types don't do as well as M. balbisiana types in my experience. The bigger the pseudostem, the better chance you have. Also, with the less likely to store well cultivars, you may want to keep them a bit warmer than the others (maybe wrap them or throw a blanket over them, store them in a warm corner, etc.); you'll also want to cut all of the leaves off of them. With Orinoco, I've gotten away with leaving 2 or even three leaves on a pseudostem to give it a headstart in the spring, but this doesn't work well with some others. In fact, it can be quite devastating to them. When in doubt, I cut ALL of the leaves off.
If you think about it, a banana plant is about 93% water, so you don't want it to lose this water! That is what makes up almost all of the pseudostem. I suspect that you have something else going on if they are rotting. Check your temps with a thermometer. How humid is it where you are storing them? Where are you storing them? I can't imagine that the water from the pseudostem is causing them to rot.
Frank
Hi,
Thanks Frank!
Hopefully these guys will make it through the winter cuz they were my favorites this year. I realized my theory probably didn't make sense but it's been a long winter and I my banana brain won't stop even without any sunshine........
sunsetsammy
04-29-2009, 01:52 AM
Well it's official!
The 4 ensetes that I mentioned above are indeed rotten. I started chopping off the pseudostem looking for some fresh leaves and there was a black spot in the middle right down to the corm. The corms themselves were totally rotten too.
I just don't get it? Last year I had great luck with all my bananas but lost almost half of my cannas and EE's. This year I kept the storage shed a little warmer and drier by sealing off the windows and vents with plastic. I figured it would help with heating bills and keeping the dampness out would help prevent rot. (Here on Vancouver Island we have some damp winters.) Anyhow so far I've had excellent success with the cannas and EE's but now all my ensete's rotted.
My wifes parents kept an ensete underneath their house in a garbage bag full of sawdust and the thing started growing under the house. They claim it doesn't get colder than 50F and is actually quite damp down there.
Maybe it is the dampness/humidity that keeps these things fresh for longer. Weird how the cannas and EE's would make it in my shed but not the ensetes.
YAKUZA
07-12-2009, 01:39 PM
Yeah...the neighbors aren't even going to see it coming :D .
Ok, here is the rest of the thread that I should've included into the original post. Here is the crawl space door that they ALL went into.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=286&size=1
And here is a few shots of the bananas stored under the house. Don't ask me how many there are...I don't know!
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=283&size=1
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=287&size=1
You can see that there are two rows.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=284&size=1
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=285&size=1
Way too much fun :cool: .
I'm hoping for 8 bunches of MATURE, ripe bananas next year. We'll see...
Maybe its a little early but is this methode realy a succes?
It works for Basjoo, Helens hybride and monkey fingers?
better 2 get info early hehe
mcardiff
08-19-2009, 07:02 PM
okay everybody.what do i do for the winter?my basjoo isnt even a year so i think im going to bring it in for the winter.should i leave it in the pot? do i store it in the garage for winter? if i bring indoors how often do i water it??? help would deeply be apreicated.
maesy
08-22-2009, 02:34 PM
I can't help but think, that Frank's (bigdog) way is probably the easiest and most efficient. No rotting, no air ventilation problems...
Since I'm in the zone where I need to plan overwintering, not just leave bananas outside, I will try next winter both methods, when I have enough bananas and enough spare ones.
I'll let you know then.
Frank's method of storing the pseudo stems in the basement over winter was also my motivation to do so, three years ago.
I did it this way with different varieties. Such as ice cream, misi luki, FHIA-18, cardaba, sikkimensis.
Then I was told as lower the room temperature as better. I kept them in my garage at 2 to 5 degrees Celsius. They all rot, except the sikkimensis.
A year later I did the same with dwarf orinoco and dwarf brazilian, but at 8 - 10 degrees Celsius. They came through with even a bit of a green leaf.
The problem with this method in my opinion is, that they take too long to get back a good root system. At least in my climate.
Now, I have a dwarf brazilian and a dwarf orinoco planted out in a iron basket. When the growing season is over, I will dig out the basket and put it in a dark room of my basement at 10 degrees without water for 5 - 6 month. I'd like to leave at least three leaves on them.
What do you guys think about it?
Has anybody else made any experience with over wintering musa dwarf brazilian in the basement?
Marcel
I would go for it Marcel. The only way in northern climates we can eventually come to what is most successful is with logical thought and trial and error. Sure some will be lost along the way. In the end if all of us keep trying we should be able to come up with a few methods for success. It's one of the best facets of the org.
maesy
08-22-2009, 03:17 PM
For sure I will go for it!
I only wonder, if there has anyone ever over wintered dwarf brazilian in the basement.
I know many people do it with dwarf orinoco, but myself I am not that convinced of d.orinoco. It is very hardy, but slow rooting, and take long to get back into growth.
D.brazilian make more leaves in one season in my climate. That is my personal experience.
Marcel
You just made me wonder if anyone's tried using the method I do with plumeria? Just bring it in for the fall when temps dip too low and leave it dry in a pot full of soil. I usually water lightly once a month or maybe not, it goes dormant and I "wake it up" by watering a month or so ahead of time while it's indoors. The plumeria flowers every year and seemingly suffers no ill effects. I may sacrifice one to try this way.
maesy
08-22-2009, 03:37 PM
Are the plumerias planted in the ground? Or only in pots, that you bring inside?
Marcel
For the past 10 or so years just in pots.
Jack Daw
08-22-2009, 04:47 PM
Boys, I gave it a lot of thought and thanks to some PK, DB, GN, SDC and RP observations I found out several important factors.
But I owuld like to say how happy I am, that someone's willing to share his ideas on this. Ever from the beginning I considered BigDog's technique interesting, but wanted to prolong the duration of active growth by about 2 or 3 months (November, March and April), leaving the plants with ideal 60 to 70 days of active rest.
This can not be however done keeping them bare-root.
For sure I will go for it!
I only wonder, if there has anyone ever over wintered dwarf brazilian in the basement.
I know many people do it with dwarf orinoco, but myself I am not that convinced of d.orinoco. It is very hardy, but slow rooting, and take long to get back into growth.
D.brazilian make more leaves in one season in my climate. That is my personal experience.
Marcel
Marcel, as I read it, I slowly find out that you might have one or more other, different problems.
- the plants root easier, when the soil has almost sand consistency, thus if you work on it in the spring it should be much more ideal for the naners. If and when you work with the soil, I suppose it's in the autumn, as a part of the next spring prep. This is however not sufficient, because the frost, rain and snow will melt it into one solid piece of mass, so unless you fertilized it, it won't have much of an effect.
- the second thing is that our soils are so rich and good, that it's bad (literally, southern soils can't compare to ours and we have to come out from this assumption). They have excellent water holding capacity (!) (one short rain can stay in the upper soil even many days during very hot weather (30+°C/85+°F) and we have to minimize this element in favor of another attribute: heat capacity (optimal would be: easy to heat up, slowly cool down). Therefore I think that several preparative steps in the early winter will be necessary. So for starters:
a) I read somewhere that Frank heats up the soil in early spring with black plastic covers, now this is a great improvement, but not sufficient. To keep the banana growing at normal pace (so that it doesn't sit in the soil inactive 2, 3, 4 weeks) we would have to have the temperature soil at least those 8°C we keep them stored at (to eliminate the few days of shock they would come through).
This temperature is also good from one other reason, which is fruiting.
But we can cross this bridge once we come to it.
b) Heating up the soil wouldn't be a problem, if it didn't freeze so deeply. Now bare with me, because I think that freezing to 5 or more cm is healthy. It is what makes our soils so fertile. Lots of bugs, insects, ... and other animals (and some bacteria) die at this temps, so it would be a natural clean up. They also work as fertilizer, because many new soil bacteria colonies start working in the spring and so do another animals.
I experimnted with microculture heating system this year. A complicated name for something so stupid. Rotting hay. I put about 300L (80gallons) into the shade of my garage (constant year-round temperature there is about 8-14°C/45-58°F). I took a large pile of mowed grass from my yard (small pieces, my mower cuts it into tiny pieces) and put it into my garage (late winter/early spring temps) and waited. Then I measured up the temp. Decaying hay produced the more heat than I expected, a pile that I had was way too hot in the epicenter, more than 45°C (115°F). The outter layers were almost as cool as the surrounding area, 8°C.
Now if we move even larger piles over the areas that we know for sure will be a banana area in the future, we might ensure, that during the worst freezes (-10°C, -14°C...) the temps will be idle and once the worst forsts are over (usually within a week here), the hay will produce enough heat to warm up the soil to certain levels. Combined with black plastic bags over the hay (like a very small tent) might also do even more warming up.
This cover could be putin the place on the day, when the temps should fall below -5°C (so called frost threshold).
c) fertilizer/compost should be released to the soil in advance as well, along with some sand. Black soils with some sand should hold the temperatures well enoughfor us.
d) now the worse part, inner prep and end of season prep.
And we continue...
You just made me wonder if anyone's tried using the method I do with plumeria? Just bring it in for the fall when temps dip too low and leave it dry in a pot full of soil. I usually water lightly once a month or maybe not, it goes dormant and I "wake it up" by watering a month or so ahead of time while it's indoors. The plumeria flowers every year and seemingly suffers no ill effects. I may sacrifice one to try this way.
Bob I was thinking more of a combination. It is a great idea to start the plant sooner (e.g. in March in here) and then, as the temps get idle outside, plant it out.
I also assume that there are 2 ways of doing this:
Either keep the plants in soil and dry, cold conditions for 2 months, or store them bare-root.
What Marcel described could be efficient, but I think that the cage itself is not that good idea. For a small plant, a cage would take too much soil along with the roots rendering it useless, because the ideal banana soil would simply go to small pieces once he pulls the soil out and the roots would be without any soil left. Large corms could aslo have problems and dare I say it, they would make it impossible for you to replace the cage with bigger. It takes maybe 2 or 3 well placed pups each year.
I was thinking how to counteract this problem and the solution once again exists. Bags. There are materials, like Zelta (sorry, don't know the English name), which have larger eyes (designed for storing potatoes). These holes or eyes hold the soil, but release the water from the soil.
It would eliminate the problem with corm getting to large, simply open the side of the bag.
And it really works, Christmas trees are sold here in those bags. Now consider that they are harvested and supplied in October and they still live and are in perfect shape in December.
How to put the bag in and out? Now that's what I'm thinking about these days, but I will solve this mystery eventually. The problem's not really in putting it there, but pulling it out. It will have to be large enough to consume the entire corm AND surrounding soil, but that would make the plant incredibly heavy. How to pull it out, so that I don't damage the bag (solid textile from 2mm thick fibres)? Now that's a question. One solution would be to tie it to the p-stem and carry it all with a hand truck (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_truck).
If you think, that the roots could grow through the bag, you're right. The bag limits only the soil, slowly growing roots can get through, making tight holes for themselves.
Any ideas to my plan? There's lots of possible failing points, but I think it has some foundations.
----
I will do this with my bananas, Dwarf Brazilian..., but surely not this year, there simply isn't any reason to do so. There will be a harvest this time next year. :D :02: Hopefully.
Interesting stuff Jack, I'd like to see these bags, haven't heard of them but the idea is good. Like I said if we all keep trying the solution should reveal itself. Good thinking.
Jack Daw
08-22-2009, 05:37 PM
Interesting stuff Jack, I'd like to see these bags, haven't heard of them but the idea is good. Like I said if we all keep trying the solution should reveal itself. Good thinking.
That Zelta material was roughly translated by my programs as duck or taurpaulin. It is the same material that our army uses to knit the inner layers of special military outfits. Strong, tight, if not improved by other material, not the least waterproof.
The bags can be really large, I can remember my parents buying crout and potatoes in it (20+kg).
maesy
08-22-2009, 05:41 PM
Jack,
I always mix the planting hole with sand, gravel and rotted compost before I plant the bananas. To warm up the soil as you suggest and use black plastic foil is a good idea, but only gives you an advantage, when also the air temperature is at a minimum of 12 - 15 degrees Celsius.
According to the d.orinoco, more than once I have planted bolt corms in pots and into the ground, and it always takes months for them to get going. That's why I started to try something out that isn't disturbing the root system as much as digging them out and force them every year again to start rooting from the beginning. The iron basket has only small holes, just big enough for the roots to grow through. I tried it last year with musa FHIA-18 and musa sp.yangtse. And it worked. But the FHIA-18 rot in my garage. This one needs a warm winter place like a living room or warm greenhouse.
My first thought was also the kind of bag we use for potatoes. But after a half a year in the ground, that probably has also rotted to 50%.
Marcel
When I read in your Musa 'Pahari Kela' report, I can see, that your average daytime and night time temperature are at least two to three degrees warmer than ours.
And that is a big different!
Unfortunately we don't have that many warm summer nights, that make the bananas grow like crazy! This summer we had only two or maybe three nights with at least 20 degrees.
Jack Daw
08-22-2009, 05:47 PM
Jack,
I always mix the planting hole with sand, gravel and rotted compost before I plant the bananas. To warm up the soil as you suggest and use black plastic foil is a good idea, but only gives you an advantage, when also the air temperature is at a minimum of 12 - 15 degrees Celsius.
According to the d.orinoco, more than once I have planted bolt corms in pots and into the ground, and it always takes months for them to get going. That's why I started to try something out that isn't disturbing the root system as much as digging them out and force them every year again to start rooting from the beginning. The iron basket has only small holes, just big enough for the roots to grow through. I tried it last year with musa FHIA-18 and musa sp.yangtse. And it worked. But the FHIA-18 rot in my garage. This one needs a warm winter place like a living room or warm greenhouse.
My first thought was also the kind of bag we use for potatoes. But after a half a year in the ground, that probably has also rotted to 50%.
Marcel
When I read in your Musa 'Pahari Kela' report, I can see, that your average daytime and night time temperature are at least two to three degrees warmer than ours.
And that is a big different!
Unfortunately we don't have that many warm summer nights, that make the bananas grow like crazy! This summer we had only two or maybe three nights with at least 20 degrees.
Well, celta material was originally designed by our army, so its supposed to withstand years of especially bad treatment. I have military outfits at home that are more than 25 years old (army give away) and they still are perfect, no holes, tears...
I think the warmer microclimate is due to the large water reservoirs around and beneath us. Also the soil here is... well, chernozem.
These thoeries are worth trying though, right? Dooming the entire Orinoco family because of one specimen? Maybe there are others, more vigorous. :D We'll see. I definitely intend to do that spring preparing.
But I think that someone with larger plants (Bob) might try it as well. ;)
Btw. Marcel, doesn't the compost cause also the root rot?
Do you really have 11°C now? What happened?
maesy
08-22-2009, 05:51 PM
I'm shocked! Have a look at my weather banner. It shows 10 degrees at 10 pm!
I 've just been outside to check. In fact its quit cool with 13 degrees only!
Marcel
There is not that much compost, that is only an addition.
As soon as they have a good root system and the right summer temperature they grow fast. 3 - 4 leaves a month for my d.brazilian.
Marcel
Now, back to 11°C ;)
Jack Daw
08-22-2009, 06:08 PM
That's some bad weather. :D
But the truth is, that the summer's slowly finishig here as well.
Water temps are around 24°C. Not that good fro swimming.
Okay, let's just concentrate on the overwintering.
One thing that I noticed is that once you put the compost into the deeper soil levels, it stops producing the heat. Compost needs to brath the air. Or at least the fungus and bacteria do.
hammer
08-22-2009, 10:39 PM
I have a question when you put your bananas to sleep for the winter do you leave the pups on or take them off i herd that if you leave the pups that it gives energy to the m0there plant to make it through the winter.
Jack Daw
08-23-2009, 02:59 AM
I have a question when you put your bananas to sleep for the winter do you leave the pups on or take them off i herd that if you leave the pups that it gives energy to the m0there plant to make it through the winter.
Frank left the pups on the corm and wrote somewhere, that this way the plants come back in the spring earlier. Also the pups will grow much faster and the entire corm is stronger.
hammer
08-23-2009, 07:15 AM
Thanks jack i thought that was the case . i didnt know what to do with all my Orinoco pups there is 32 pups one has 7 pups alone i didn't want to have to pot all of them up for the winter.:woohoonaner:
Prometheus
08-30-2009, 02:17 PM
Hey All,
Great and informative thread (it took a while to read it all). I'm in zone 5 (Michigan) and a newbie banana nut. I just moved houses this summer, so all my nanners are in pots right now and in their first year (roughly) of growth (I'm planning on planting many of them in the ground next year). So, the great wintering question comes up - any helpful advice would be greatly appreciated. Here's my little collection:
3 Musa Basjoo - 5', 2.5', and 1.5' (pup I removed)
1 Red Abyssinian - 4'
3 Siam Ruby - 6' (two of them - 3 pups), 5', 2' (pup removed)
3 KRU - 3', 3', 3'
1 unknown Musa - 3.5'
1 IC (Blue Java) - 3'
1 - Dwarf Cavendish - 1'' - met an accident and got chopped at the corm - looks like it's peaking through with new growth - I hope it recovers - will it?
I also have a some giant EE - Colocasias and a beautiful Alocasia EE, and several Canna's
THE PLAN
I have an empty bedroom upstairs (South facing Window) and plenty of room in the basement - small west windows (65F) through the winter.
EE's/Canna's - chop to nothing and store the bulbs
Alocasia - plan to keep in front of the sliding door (south facing)
Nanners - Hmmm... I was hoping to just move most of them into the basement in their pots or upstairs bedroom (basement preferred) and only water sparingly if absolutely bare-bones dry. I have windows reserved for some of them.
QUESTIONS
What do you think?
Should I remove any leaves?
I heard spider mites become a large problem - should I worry too much?
Do the plants "drip" during their indoor wintering?
Should I provide supplemental light to sustain them?
When should I make the move? The Siam Ruby is the least cold tolerant - correct? I figured I'd wait until the nights start dropping below 45F.
When should I stop watering them? Should I fertilize again?
Thanks a million to anyone who feels compelled to read my little novella here and thanks in advance for any advice. What am I missing? Thanks again.
--Brad Ann Arbor, MI
hammer
08-30-2009, 03:08 PM
I have another question when i dig my banana plants up for the winter should i wash the roots or shake the dirt off i did not see this anywhere anyway the clay is hard to get off the roots.
Maque
09-01-2009, 03:30 PM
Hello all! :woohoonaner:
I´ve only had the pleasure of having bananas for two years!
And I just wanna know how I shall do to treat them well during the wintertime.
I have all my bananas planted in pots outside and now when I do need to take them inside (to cold) how do I do?
I have a basement with 13-16C, is that ok? or shall I put them in my livingroom ca 20-22C. Shall I water them? Shall I feed them? Do they need light? I have Led growlights. They are only about 60cm high right now.
Please help a banana friend!!!!
//Marcus
Sweden
cowboyup4christ
09-01-2009, 10:11 PM
Going to put mine in a greenhouse, when should I dig and pot, how long should I give them to adjust before winter? how often to water? I am goint to just keep them from freezing will not try to grow them through the winter to must heat cost, will probably keep them around 50 degrees f.
chong
09-01-2009, 11:18 PM
Going to put mine in a greenhouse, when should I dig and pot, how long should I give them to adjust before winter? how often to water? I am goint to just keep them from freezing will not try to grow them through the winter to must heat cost, will probably keep them around 50 degrees f.
Here's an article that came in yesterday by the Master Gardener from FL that has some recommendations:
How to winterize your plants (http://mgonline.com/articles/winterize.aspx)
stumpy4700
09-02-2009, 12:48 AM
QUESTIONS
What do you think?
Should I remove any leaves?
I heard spider mites become a large problem - should I worry too much?
Do the plants "drip" during their indoor wintering?
Should I provide supplemental light to sustain them?
When should I make the move? The Siam Ruby is the least cold tolerant - correct? I figured I'd wait until the nights start dropping below 45F.
When should I stop watering them? Should I fertilize again?
Brad:
I would not remove all the leaves, Keeping some leaves will help the plant to capture the sunlight.
Spider mites will find you indoors, but there are several sprays that will help control them. I use a soap based spray that is sold at your lowes or home depot type store.
Yes if you spray or mist the leaves they might drip on the floor. If thats a problem throw down a towel or after a minute wipe the leaf down.
If you have lights all the better
I personally move my Siams when it hits under 50 degrees
I would stop watering a couple of days before you move them inside and then water very sparingly. And no fertilizer til spring.
This is just what has worked for me so seek advise from a couple of other sources as there are different ways....And I see your in Ann Arbor so goooo Buckeyes....lol
Prometheus
09-02-2009, 09:58 AM
Jeff,
Thanks for the response and the advice. It's been in the low 40's the past two nights and the Siams have held up just fine. This week looks good with high 70's and 80's during the day so I figure I have a couple of weeks left. I've already reduced watering with the colder weather. As for the "goooo Buckeyes," that's the biggest flaw in your response. I'm a Michigan alum - go Blue! Although it's not looking so good for us - we shall see. Just glad my nanners are doing better than our football team has in the past few years. Thanks again and happy growing!
stumpy4700
09-02-2009, 12:15 PM
Jeff,
Thanks for the response and the advice. It's been in the low 40's the past two nights and the Siams have held up just fine. This week looks good with high 70's and 80's during the day so I figure I have a couple of weeks left. I've already reduced watering with the colder weather. As for the "goooo Buckeyes," that's the biggest flaw in your response. I'm a Michigan alum - go Blue! Although it's not looking so good for us - we shall see. Just glad my nanners are doing better than our football team has in the past few years. Thanks again and happy growing!
:) :nanadrink: Its still nice to have a Big Ten fan here to combat all the SEC and Pac-10 fans here.
sirmoebly
09-02-2009, 08:14 PM
Gooo bluuee just got in trouble again.......I feel for you..........
Scuba_Dave
09-02-2009, 08:19 PM
We've been getting down to the mid 50's here
But today & tomorrow close to 80
I started to close the windows on the greenhouse
And I put the 1st 2 storm windows back on the West side
sirmoebly
09-02-2009, 08:59 PM
Hey scuba dave hows the wellspring orders working out for you????? Mine did pretty good. Prometheus don't worry to much about michigan, tough school they will come back......
Scuba_Dave
09-02-2009, 09:09 PM
They are doing OK
I probably should have transplanted them to bigger pots
But it's so close to time to put them away I'm not going to bother
They are pretty big - not that tall
I need to take some updated pics
hammer
09-15-2009, 05:30 PM
I have a question when do you bring them indoors just right before frost or let a little frost get the leaves as the leaves comes off anyway the only thing is that it may frost at night and get in the 70s in the day that would be to warm during the day if you put them inside i think that would be to warm.
cowboyup4christ
09-15-2009, 05:59 PM
moved all of mine into the green house except the balbasinia and the bordelon.
the leaves on the Cavendish and the gold fingers were turning brown and also on two of my dwarf Orinocos that I potted for the greenhouse. I hope they are ok, I use a potting soil that had no fertilizer and just added my own, hope it's just shock form coming out of the ground into the pot. will add pictures of new naner house and plants to gallery
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=23116&size=1
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=23115&size=1
any help would be great don't want to kill them
Oh this is where they will live for the winter
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=23117&size=1
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=23119&size=1
hammer
09-15-2009, 07:04 PM
Moved all that i could fit into my greenhouse im waitting for my orincos and golfinger cal gold waiting for frost for them im going to leave them as long as i can im going to put them into my storerage room where i will let my orincos and goldfinger go to sleep. im affaid that one of my orincos is close to blooming it is 9 foot tall and still growing i hope it waits till next summer.
cowboyup4christ
09-15-2009, 07:13 PM
I just hope this leaf problem is a minor one and not some major problem.
The Hollyberry Lady
09-28-2009, 06:46 PM
Wow - thanks for all the great information everyone!
I have several banana plants that I am keeping indoors over the winter, that I just received through the mail. Most of them are growing well for me.
I have a metal halide light system, which will provide hours of intense light and heat over the cold, dark Winter, and I hope that all my banana plants will respond positively to my methods. I do love to experiment.
There is a lot to be learned in this thread. Gonna read some more...
: )
damaclese
09-28-2009, 08:22 PM
my plan for this year is to erect supports all around my plants then I'm installing plastic sheeting since my zone is so miled the idea is to keep all the leafs from this season going its kinda ambitious but i think it will get me lots of fruit early in the spring with out having to wait i have at least 4 plants that are on the verge of flowering and i don't want there leafs to die
Prometheus
09-29-2009, 05:48 PM
Michigan just got cold, and all my potted nanners took the trek indoors yesterday. I was hoping for another week or so, but with a forecast of low 30's tomorrow night and 20-40 mph winds yesterday, I figured it was about time. Right now, I just stuck the majority of them if front of a big ol' south facing window and am hoping for the best (I keep the house in the high 60's). Currently, I don't have any additional lighting. I'm a bit nervous: spider mites, unhappy plants, rot, maybe even, sniffle...sniffle, death?
Does anyone have any input on how to keep these guys happy throughout the bitterly long and cold Michigan winter? As a banana rookie, is there anything I should keep my eye out for. Thanks.
-Brad
The Hollyberry Lady
09-29-2009, 07:42 PM
Look, I am new to banana growing and no one told me that spider mites were attracted to them, until I noticed some on the plant myself!
I immediately took the plant to the bathtub, and sprayed it with dishsoapy water in a spray bottle, and then showered it with a hard spray of clear water. It ridded them completely.
I shower my plants once a week,with a hard spray of water, making sure to get the undersides of the leaves most especially, because this is where mites take up residence.
If you are consistent with regular showering of your banana plants, you will never have a mite problem. A humidifier is also another great option to control mites because they like a dry atmosphere.
Good luck.
: )
Abnshrek
09-29-2009, 08:10 PM
well if you run low on light maybe you can crank-up the tanning bed for 15min = full day of sun lol..... Mine's for sale by the way.... lmao
sirmoebly
10-04-2009, 07:37 PM
I just started to pull some plants but I will leave the biggest till the end of oct. but when in doubt cut leaves for cold dark storage.......... I live in Zone 6 northern ohio...
Jack Daw
10-05-2009, 02:12 AM
I just started to pull some plants but I will leave the biggest till the end of oct. but when in doubt cut leaves for cold dark storage.......... I live in Zone 6 northern ohio...
When do your frosts begin?
sirmoebly
10-05-2009, 10:31 PM
Hey jack, I just watch the weather if it spikes I will be out there digging. Our weather guys are usually full of it.. Living so close to the water, it tends to stay a little warmer. I did pull smaller plants and potted them up but the larger one's can take the cold little better. Plus I wanted to show them off for halloween. This was the first year I put them in the ground. Boy did I notice a difference in growth!!! From now on pots for winter & in the ground for summer...... Right now our temps are staying around 65f highs to 50-42f lows....with finally a little rain.......November is when you have to watch out for but you never now...if it stays warm I will leave them in... Or if I see there getting hurt I will pull them. This will be the first time I have plants big enough to bare root & see how they do..
Jack Daw
10-06-2009, 08:32 AM
Hey jack, I just watch the weather if it spikes I will be out there digging. Our weather guys are usually full of it.. Living so close to the water, it tends to stay a little warmer. I did pull smaller plants and potted them up but the larger one's can take the cold little better. Plus I wanted to show them off for halloween. This was the first year I put them in the ground. Boy did I notice a difference in growth!!! From now on pots for winter & in the ground for summer...... Right now our temps are staying around 65f highs to 50-42f lows....with finally a little rain.......November is when you have to watch out for but you never now...if it stays warm I will leave them in... Or if I see there getting hurt I will pull them. This will be the first time I have plants big enough to bare root & see how they do..
Interesting. :D I have much warmer weather here and am already afraid. Frosts can come very guick and be very deadly. :( Good luck with bare root storing!
sirmoebly
10-07-2009, 12:39 AM
jack, do think i should pull everything? I work outside for a living and it not bad out for cold? (for me anyways) I am kinda watching my canna's for leaf burning.... shouldn't that tell?????? Plus a good cold spell will put banana's to sleep for a while...... I have to cut leaves anyways to get down in my basement.....they are just to big.......
Jack Daw
10-07-2009, 11:13 AM
jack, do think i should pull everything? I work outside for a living and it not bad out for cold? (for me anyways) I am kinda watching my canna's for leaf burning.... shouldn't that tell?????? Plus a good cold spell will put banana's to sleep for a while...... I have to cut leaves anyways to get down in my basement.....they are just to big.......
I don't know, my first naner winter too. :D
saltydad
10-07-2009, 05:37 PM
For those of us who are trying their first bare root banana winter, some questions. After digging, removing the dirt and leaves from the p-stem, should the plant be left outside to dry for a given amount of time before bringing it in? Once inside, should it be laying down, propped up at an angle, or straight up? Should the corm ever be misted throughout the winter? Should I shake some fungicide on the corms? Any other advice would be GREATLY appreciated, as previously I've potted up my nanas for the winter, and this is new for me. Thanks!
Patty in Wisc
10-07-2009, 07:03 PM
For those of us who are trying their first bare root banana winter, some questions. After digging, removing the dirt and leaves from the p-stem, should the plant be left outside to dry for a given amount of time before bringing it in? Once inside, should it be laying down, propped up at an angle, or straight up? Should the corm ever be misted throughout the winter? Should I shake some fungicide on the corms? Any other advice would be GREATLY appreciated, as previously I've potted up my nanas for the winter, and this is new for me. Thanks!
Howard, I just dug up 2 IC at Mike's house last wkend. My 2nd time doing this. Get as much soil off as you can & drag it in garage or lay out to dry. Last time I layed it down & covered it for winter. This time they are standing in corner of garage. Laying down - standing, doesn't matter. DO NOT mist them or they will rot. I know it sounds weird, but they are better staying dry. Also, I only cut half of the newest/top leaf off to give it a better start in spring. Just something to absorb a little sun to get it started.
aupoet
10-18-2009, 07:08 PM
I am a first time naner grower down along the south Alabama coast, so I don't think I need to dig mine. I have two ice creams that I planted out this last spring as 1 foot pups. They are now both some 10 ft. tall with three young, 3 to 4 ft. pups around each of them. I have a hen house full of dry chicken manure that has built up since last fall. I usually shovel it out every fall and dump it out on part of the garden to be plowed under. I was wondering if I should fill some large leaf bags with the manure and place them around the larger pups to protect them over the winter? The local gardening expert who writes for our paper says to cut the large original stem completely down and only try to save one fair size pup from each main stem. He says the older stem that grew this year won't fruit next year and not to try to save it, is this right? Should I mix any leaves or wood chips with the manure and should I keep it dry or would it be better to wet it down? I thought it might go through a composting cycle in the bags and be a good soil dressing for the plants in the spring. Thanks for the help.
Abnshrek
10-18-2009, 07:45 PM
The local gardening expert who writes for our paper says to cut the large original stem completely down and only try to save one fair size pup from each main stem. He says the older stem that grew this year won't fruit next year and not to try to save it, is this right?
If main stem hasn't flowered there is no need to chop it off @ the base.. you can leave it as is if it don't freeze or you can cut 2 or 3 bags top to bottom and tape them up fill with mulch and save 8 ft of the main stem.. Or you can use a couple bails of straw or hay. :^) :woohoonaner:
YAKUZA
10-19-2009, 05:06 AM
Hi guys. No im not death but i have a new hobby en its taking mutch time.
My new frend a Hungarian Pointing Dog . A Vizsla for the pro's.
Now im making a little time for my garden hehe.
We have 3 nights down Zero. -1, -2.
For next week min 5 degrees max 16.
Is it time for me to put nanas 2 sleep?
The non frosts are in the greenhouse.
I have cut the leaves of the basjoo.
Somebody have expierience withe the glasswool inssulation mat?
i have seen a video on yourtube.
YouTube - Fall Hardy Bananas (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKJlbM77wXE)
nice 2 c u all back.
Randy4ut
10-19-2009, 06:46 AM
Interesting video, but doesn't the insulation absorb moisture and hold it near the pstem and promote rot? Always wondered about using insulation against the pstem with it causing rot... Anyone tried this and did the insulation not absorb moisture?
sirmoebly
10-19-2009, 07:50 PM
Well I guess the guy in the video did & worked...not recommended for very rainy climates thou... unless you protect from that... notice on how high he started to wrap.. drainage is the key....
Randy4ut
10-19-2009, 08:02 PM
The video was from Portland, Oregon, so I guess the not recommended for the "rainy climate" is out the window. Also, if you listened to him explain the insulation wrap and the reason he starts that high. He says to start that high because mulch will be piled up to the bottom of it, so that kills that theory. Just don't see how the insulation would not become soaking wet and cause rot!!!
sirmoebly
10-19-2009, 08:16 PM
no, if you keep it off the ground it will drain & dry out pretty quick. My basement flooded alot of times and I can get it dry with in hours... IN new foundations they are wrapping basements for dainage to your footer tile.
YAKUZA
10-20-2009, 03:03 AM
i think im going 2 try it . Maybe its better 2 use some plastic above the insullation end prevent rain or snow is getting in the outside of insullation .
Prometheus
11-03-2009, 10:06 AM
Hey guys/gals,
I'm wondering about this whole thing with keeping bananas indoors. I moved all my nanners inside (Brrr, it's cold outside) in the pots they were growing in, and they're growing as if they were outside (OK, not that well, but putting out a new leaf every 5-7 days or so). I know this is a "putting to sleep thread," yet they really don't want to sleep. Most of them have a nice big southern window with a humidifier under them (so far, no spider mites - :). I know I'm not supposed to water them as much or fertilize, yet I love to see the growth since they're still young nanners (first year). I keep watering them and they keep growing. If I'm treating these as houseplants for now, would fertilizer be bad? Am I pressing my luck with providing the copious amounts of water they want? I have some banana fuel I'm itching to try out. Any comments? Will my indoor luck change as the days shorten? I hope not. Thanks.
--Brad
sirmoebly
11-03-2009, 06:54 PM
Prometheus, Hello I am south of you "ohio". If there growing good give them what ever you got... If you start seeing leave damage back off of everything.... esp. water.... Next year you will have to make a decision on "do I bare root or pot?????" Well I have a boat load of bare rooted right now so time will tell... I have been checking temps of basement/complete darkness so I can give results to all..... It's only for fun you know....:goteam:
Brad, it really depends on temp--if they are staying above 60 they are not dormant so you will get growth. Growth will be slower because of the lower light and shorter days, so you should cut back on fertilizer and water a little as well. The real problems come from too much water when the banana is too cool to grow.
saltydad
11-04-2009, 06:07 PM
Just finished digging up all my nanas, ee's and canna and brought them inside. Man is my back killing me.
bikoro child
11-05-2009, 02:08 AM
for my case I'm just waiting for a significative frost and then i'll protect my bananas by wrapping the stems ...
WV Girl
11-05-2009, 09:08 PM
Hey Saltydad,
This is my first year for EE and canna. Some I planted as a single corm and some were already potted and growing. When you dig them, did you trim all the leaves, stem, and everything off to store for the winter, or did you leave any green plant left on the corm for a start next year? Just wondering, since the original EE corm just looked like a ball of poo. :ha:
Prometheus
11-05-2009, 11:18 PM
WV Girl,
My first year with these too. I chopped down the EE's and threw the tubers and roots in a paper bag for a few days, trimmed them down a little, and waited a week. I pulled off the green again, trimmed off the roots, and waited again. Then I broke them up into beautiful (not to mention many new), dry, and compact tubers ready to store for the winter (or give to friends). Just give it some time and make sure you keep them dry (feel free to trim or pull off any green/wet parts).
I'm overwintering my cannas indoors in their pots; their doing just well with southern exposure and kicking out new leaves every few days. I never thought I'd keep cannas as indoor plants for the winter. Let me know how your storage of those goes (next year I may do this differently as I have way too many other plants that want their winter spots).
--Brad
WV Girl
11-07-2009, 08:34 PM
Wow. Today we dug up my nanas (decided against trying to overwinter them in the ground) and boy, YOU WERENT KIDDING! I could not believe how heavy they were!:weightliftingnaner: I dont think I will be able to move tomorrow. I had to enlist the help of DH to get them out of the ground. It was necessary to go ahead and split them into pieces so I could even pick them up. I hope I did the right thing. My DH thinks I'm a bit crazy, and maybe so, but right now he's humoring me with this big pile in the basement. Oh well, if they make it next year, it will all be worth it!
plantguy
11-09-2009, 01:14 AM
Hi all. I dug up my 3 IC for the first time. They have stems about 3' tall. I took all the dirt off the roots. I plan to store them in a garage. My only question is what is the min temp they would be able to handle & not cause a problem? Thanks.
Vinny
Hi all. I dug up my 3 IC for the first time. They have stems about 3' tall. I took all the dirt off the roots. I plan to store them in a garage. My only question is what is the min temp they would be able to handle & not cause a problem? Thanks.
Vinny
As dormant stems, I think they can handle any lows above freezing.
plantguy
11-09-2009, 11:53 AM
As dormant stems, I think they can handle any lows above freezing.
OK thanks.That's what I was thinking also, but wanted to get some feedback/ reassurance from others that have tried successfuly. I hate to loose them. They are like my babies!!
cowboyup4christ
11-19-2009, 07:08 PM
just cut the temp in the green house to 45 degrees as a low today, naners are still growing like crazy, if they don't stop soon they will grow through the roof. it is still hitting 90-100 degrees on sunny days, only one light frost so far, can't wait till spring. but planting bare root fruit trees in the nursery will keep my grow fix going till then.
bananarama2
11-21-2009, 01:32 AM
The fibreglas insulation acts to both insulate and wick moisture away from the plant. I particularly favor the use of bubble wrap, which is re-usable, and much cleaner to handle than the insulation. Some attempt to create a cap to keep direct moisture inside the tube would seem wise also. Otherwise, a horticulturist in Portland would seem to have it figured out for us rainy climate banana maniacs. The burlap wrap is more than decorative as well, also avoiding creating a moisture trap next to the stalk.
bananarama2
11-21-2009, 02:29 AM
Just a few thoughts on the whole winter storage thing;bananas are all tropicals or semi-tropicals, and don't have a specific dormant cycle in nature. So, when we humans decide to grow them out of a normal climate, we should be trying to "think like the plant" as I like to say. Most plants stop active growth at about 13oF, so when growing conditions fall below this temperature, the plant will tend to react accordingly, dropping leaves, changing leaf color, and in general, not growing any more. So, it would seem wise to provide storage environments that maintain minimal growth of the plant, to avoid the alternative, which seems, by many of the posts, to be rot and decay. So far as I can see, many members are offering good advice as far as maintaining dryness around the root mass, and minimizing humidity in the area, which accelerates rot. Although there may not be better options for some members, cold storage in a humid environment will often be a hit and miss situation. I'm thinking the best solution is keeping the plant "just growing" whenever possible. Just some thoughts on an obviously challenging problem. Good luck all.
BananaLee
12-09-2009, 11:56 AM
Thanks for the vid! I'm gonna need this!!
mullenium
12-11-2009, 09:48 AM
If my dwarf cav was already hit by frost (pics in my last thread) would I still be able to dig it up and overwinter in my garage? Or is it a lost cause?
bananarama2
12-11-2009, 02:09 PM
IMHO, if your intent is to try to overwinter inside anyway, you have little to lose, you'll be digging your plant up anyway. Hopefully, you've mulched the plant earlier in the year. As long as the frost has not penetrated the soil/mulch down far enough to cause the root mass to freeze, and the root still appears to be firm and healthy, dig it up and carry on with your plans. If the root appears frozen, well, it's an opportunity to head to the nursery for something new next spring! Hope the root is still cozy and protected under your mulch!:santananer:)
Caloosamusa
12-14-2009, 10:44 AM
I've mulched and will be putting down more mulch, and fertilized with a 0-0-15 with Mn and Mg. But now I notice that the Pitogo and FHIA 2 are showing Flag leaves! I hope they make it but they may not, only God knows!
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=27714&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=27714)
:2239:
Dalmatiansoap
12-14-2009, 11:26 AM
Good luck with them ;)
They will make it!
:woohoonaner:
bananarama2
12-14-2009, 07:30 PM
Caloosamusa,.... once I found you on the map, had to admit I sure like your site name, a combo of clever, descriptive and rhyming as well. I'm on Vancouver Island, and have to ask what kind of problems do you anticipate with over-wintering musa in Florida? Would seem to be more or less an easy go, compared to more northern climes. Understand, I'm new to the whole banana thing, and just curious naturally..:bed:
blownz281
12-15-2009, 03:53 PM
I had to put a bunch of nanners outside as I have a soil bug problem. I am going to store them in my storage closet outside. Which is attached to the apartment and we are 15ft off the ground,maybe that will help with warmth? Anyhow as follows - Ice Cream,Brodelon,Sikk,Cavendish which will die,Laterias. Now these have been in the house for three months and were growing great. We are suppose to drop down to the 30's tonight. SO I need to get these guys into my storage unit TODAY. So will I loose these plants from the temp change,living in 70* temps for months then living in cold temps? They sat outside in the upper 40's lastnight. Where we are located is near a large river and the ocean on the other side so we stay warmer by about 5* compared to the weather report. Zone 8 NC. This is a completely closed up storage unit just like a closet in your house. Now all these nanners will last here in the ground all year around so they should be fine being stored bare root instead of the pots. Correct?
This is my list of plants-
Basjoo
Sikk
Yellow
Laterias
Velutina
Brodelen
Ice Cream
Oricono
Would they over winter better being removed from there pots with the roots not in dirt? Thanks !!
raggedyredhead
09-13-2010, 10:52 PM
Maybe its a little early but is this methode realy a succes?
It works for Basjoo, Helens hybride and monkey fingers?
better 2 get info early hehe
I love your advise on storing in the crawlspace. Your space looks just like mine. I have two thai black,ensete glauca,ensete ventricosun and maurelli
I will try this with. the thai is about nine ft if you count the top leaf. The maurelli is over six feet with a super fat Pstem.
So, just want to say thanks in advance of me wrecking the yard. I am definitely giving this a shot. Raggedy:ha:
tastyratz
09-14-2010, 07:17 AM
Maybe this is just the moderator in me (I help run other forums)
but this thread is super informative and helpful. To make it a better reference for those of us in a cold zone, what would a moderator here at bananas.org think of weeding all but the most pertinant and helpful posts out of this thread?
Its a wonderful conversation string but at 13 pages it could be easily be knocked down to 5 pages if someone just weeds out the fluff and off topic posts ("thanks", "its getting warm", posts with just emoticons, etc.)
Doesn't have to go formal but would make it less of a bear to go through for the meat and potato's of it.
hammer
09-14-2010, 09:13 AM
Has anyone tried storing apple or praying hands inside over the winter.
mbfirey
09-14-2010, 04:09 PM
Maybe it could be a separate post but I'd be cool to see who has had success with this technique and with which bananas....
deruo
09-23-2010, 11:42 PM
Two years ago, I tried overwintering in the garage. No luck. (not cold enough I think)
Last year I overwintered indoors and after making it into the New Year, spider mites got the better of one plant and the other died off, but put out pups. A LOT of work and really cuts into your winter vacation plans! (Others I know take short vacations because of the dog... here I was not taking two weeks away because of the bananas)
I transplanted the pups outside in the spring and though they didn't do as well as I'd hoped, they're still growing and I'm thinking I'm going to leave them and try overwintering outdoors.
I haven't separated them as I figure the less I disturb them now, the better they'll survive winter. (Toronto, Canada)
I was just wondering if others here felt it was good to add some heat to the soil via heating cables, or light under all the mulch etc, or would that heat promote rot - meaning it would be better to just mulch and protect and see what happens? I'm not worried about losing p-stem as I think thats pretty much a given considering my climate and yard factors.
AV1611Corbin777
10-02-2010, 07:04 PM
Does this thread win the longest lasting thread contest?
Or maybe most useful.
I live in a ranch and don't think I will be able to maintain cold enough temps for the winter. I am going to cut mine all back to one leaf and pot them up in small pots and leave them in a big south facing bay window...
They will most likely get 0 water maybe once if needed.
I grew one DC last winter inside it put out 3 leafs, but ended up losing a couple inches come spring.
I just hope my thick plants will not rot, I figure my chances are better this way then bare rooted and dormant at maybe not so ideal temps..
I think the soil out of the bag might even have to much moisture in it.
Do I want the plant to root in or does it matter?
I think I remember someone talking about climate controlled storage facilities, do they get cold enough?..
Thoughts?
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