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BGreen
08-18-2007, 07:58 PM
Hey everyone,

I was going to take several of my bananas to the local green house to overwinter and keep them growing, however they are limited on space.
SO I have been thinking about building a pvc enclosure in my garage covering it with plastic and adding a 1000watt HID lighting system. I may add a small heater and thermostat just to make sure it stays over 60. Has anyone tried this or have any thoughts?

the flying dutchman
08-19-2007, 05:20 AM
Well, I have no experience with that but I can tell you how people do it
with indoor-hemp(Cannabis sativa:)) in the netherlands.(wich is illegal)

They use 300 watt grow-lights on a chain so you you can pull them higher
when needed.(when they are too high you have a loss of lumen)
They have a airation-system to control the temperatures(and for the smell)
wich blows fresh air in.
They paint the walls bright white.

I think 1000 watt gives alot of heat, so when it is not very cold in the garage
it may be too much heat in the enclosure and you have to get rid of the heat.

Then i think 60F is too low compared to the amount of Lumen.

Ron

kgbenson
08-19-2007, 07:38 AM
They use 300 watt grow-lights on a chain so you can pull them higher
when needed.(when they are too high you have a loss of lumen)

Go with multiple lower wattage bulbs. In the use that is generally like 250's or 400's. For something with the canopy of a banana this makes perfect sense. If money wasn't a huge issue I would invest in three lights on a rail system or even better, rotating armature (another benefit is that you can mix bulbs for a more even spectrum. If I had multiple plants I would think about a Protrack 2 Rail system. None of this is cheap.

http://www.lightrail3.com/
http://www.midwesthydroponics.com/products/images/new_hydro/scat_30092.jpg
http://www.hydroponicsbuff.com/hydroponics_lighting_movers.htm
http://www.canadianwholesalehydroponics.com/products.cfm?cat_id=11&show_products=1&catpage=3
http://www.4hydro.com/lighting/solarRevolution.asp

Too intense a light and it will have to be farther away to get the spread to cover the leaves and to reduce the intensity to prevent burning, and that requires higher ceilings. A number of smaller lights can more effectively cover a greater area.

OH - and go with Metal Halide.

They paint the walls bright white.

Even better: line them with Mylar for capturing every last photon.

http://www.gtghydroponics.com/store/19-257-0.htm

I think 1000 watt gives a lot of heat, so when it is not very cold in the garage
it may be too much heat in the enclosure and you have to get rid of the heat.

I think no matter what you do or use, if it puts out the required lumens, there will be a heating issue on all but the coldest of days. Venting fans will be your friend, and while the incoming air will supply much needed CO2 (which you could also supplement), it will also whisk away humidity. A parched banana is a sad banana.

Having said that, after the lights go off, and they have to, temps will plummet like a stone unless you are heating the space. I would heat the entire garage as heating smaller spaces is tricky with a thermostatic device and you can get rapid cycling, not to mention blowing hot dry air into a small space with a banana - they hate that.

Also - be prepared to deal with the gallons of water transpired and now in the air column of the room. You might be fighting mold. Think of it this way, venting fan or no. You have a warm box with a plant that transpires mightily. Every little molecule of water in the box is going to be zipping along an an increased speed as is reflected by the temperature of the air it is in. This will exit the structure to the cooler room outside where it will loose it's kinetic energy and slow down. Prolly actually come out of gaseous phase on some surface. This is basically two problems - the fight to keep the air in the box fresh and humid and the fight to keep the garage from turning into a swam. It can be done, but the balance can be tricky.

I have done it, with SDC in a bucket hydroponics system in a small bedroom. Worked well, the growth was excellent and the only real problem was the darned spider mites. Of course that is one fairly small banana plant. The room it was in also had some tropical reptiles. They loved the environment as well.

A more full sized plant may create some water vapor issues for you.

Whatever you do, get picks, if your system works well I think it would be of terrific interest to the group.

Pick up a decent hydroponics book and you should learn more than you would ever care to about indoor plant lighting.

Keith

NANAMAN
08-19-2007, 09:12 AM
You may want to look into compact fluorescent bulbs,( very low heat transfer, highly efficient).

kgbenson
08-19-2007, 09:26 AM
You may want to look into compact fluorescent bulbs,( very low heat transfer, highly efficient).

CF are a step up from regular or overdriven fluorescents, but they still lack the sheer growing power of a MH, both in terms of usage cost and over all set up cost. Part of the problem is that because of their structure, you can't really make the most efficient reflector.

HO T5's with individual reflectors (and that is key, individual reflectors) may become a substitute in some applications, but the structure of a banana plant is such that you would have to hang them very creatively to really get the bang for your buck. I suspect that they would do better with an expense of foliage that was essentially at the same height. Like an aeroponics unit growing basil or some such. The do put out a fantastic amount of light with fairly low heat output. Reef tank people and some of the hydroponics folks are switching. Just remember, not all T5 units are the same. Go for individually reflected HO bulbs, if you go for them at all.

In a few years I suspect that reasonable, efficient LED lights will become available. They have some prototypes out there for the reef keeping folks, it is just a matter of time before the price drops and the plant people use them big time. http://www.solarisled.com/



Keith

NANAMAN
08-19-2007, 10:57 AM
I'm using CF bulbs with individual reflectors for tomato and pepper starts indoors. I know that the lumen requirements for those are less than for bananas, but I figured CF would solve the added heat problems,(extra venting and or circulation). Also assuming that this setup is just for overwintering bananas,( not year round indoor growing), they may provide enough light to get them through. I also have the walls lined with mylar which really helps. BTW you can easily mount individual reflectors vertically, the side light with mylar reflection is amazing! I have not attempted to grow any bananas inside nor with this setup, also have no experience with overwintering bananas ( doesn't get cold enough here), so take this info for what it is. Just trying to throw some options out there that may be helpful.
Brian

kgbenson
08-19-2007, 10:59 AM
BTW you can easily mount individual reflectors vertically, the side light with mylar reflection is amazing!

Now that could be something to see.

Just trying to throw some options out there that may be helpful.

Same here - sorry if I came off otherwise.

Keith

Tangy
08-19-2007, 12:05 PM
Well, I have no experience with that but I can tell you how people do it
with indoor-hemp(Cannabis sativa:)) in the netherlands.(wich is illegal)

They use 300 watt grow-lights on a chain so you you can pull them higher
when needed.(when they are too high you have a loss of lumen)
They have a airation-system to control the temperatures(and for the smell)
wich blows fresh air in.
They paint the walls bright white.

I think 1000 watt gives alot of heat, so when it is not very cold in the garage
it may be too much heat in the enclosure and you have to get rid of the heat.

Then i think 60F is too low compared to the amount of Lumen.

Ron

Sativa?? I would of guessed it would be Indica.

On topic- good luck with the lights if thats they route you take.

the flying dutchman
08-19-2007, 12:20 PM
Sativa?? I would of guessed it would be Indica.

On topic- good luck with the lights if thats they route you take.

Just like bananas there are alot of hybrids nowadays, crossings between Indica and sativa.
So, noone grows a pure sativa or indica, just cultivars.
And by saying that it is allowed to every one in Holland to grow 5 plants(outdoors)
Nothing illegal in that case.

Ron

the flying dutchman
08-19-2007, 12:40 PM
Further there are legal shops were you can buy the hemp and anything
you need for growing and blowing.
Have to say we are the only country in europe/world who has this laws.
I didn't made the laws and I can't change them, can tell you i don't use it
and i don't grow it.

:2691:

Ron

Tangy
08-19-2007, 12:52 PM
Further there are legal shops were you can buy the hemp and anything
you need for growing and blowing.
Have to say we are the only country in europe/world who has this laws.
I didn't made the laws and I can't change them, can tell you i don't use it
and i don't grow it.

:2691:

Ron

Sounds like a enlightened country to me. I hope to visit someday.

Michael

BGreen
08-19-2007, 01:15 PM
Thanks everyone,

I will take a look at those links. I figured I better start thinking about this now before I really need it. This is just for over wintering a few plants. Last year i used some CF from my dartfrog tanks, but gave them to a friend. The light was ok, it kept the plants alive, but this was also near a window and just in the heated part of my basement. My garage has stayed above freezing in the last five winters. The space I am looking at is about 8' x 8'. I have been thinking of wrapping the whole frame with plastic and lining the inside with 1/2" foam we use under the siding of houses to create a double wall. I have also been thinking about using water jugs to help slow the heat loss once the lights went off.

Hmmmm... lots more to look into....

Steve in France
08-19-2007, 01:52 PM
Keith great info on the LED lights , be wonderful when they are cheap enough to be an option for indoor Cultivation/Winter storage of plants. I had a couple of 400 watt MH lamps I used in France for Winter storage indoors , in the end they went up on the Barn to light the yard. I must get another setup going for growing and propagating my Tropical Water Lilies over Winter. I need to find a good Hydroponic shop near us in Bethesda MD and take a look at options.
Thanks for the info .
Later
Steve

nucci60
08-19-2007, 02:51 PM
I had good luck last winter with sikkimensis, basjoo, ensete maurelli, and raja puri under 4 40 watt gro lux tubes in my basement. the temps only averaged 62F. All bananas put out growth and were healthy for putting out in the spring.They were fairly small 6" to 8" pots.

kgbenson
08-19-2007, 03:01 PM
Did they grow much, or were they static?

Keith

nucci60
08-19-2007, 04:30 PM
They grew. they were small plants off ebay and the sikkis and the maurelii had to be potted up twice by the end of winter. the basjoo and rajapuri were potted up once. no spider mites either. I think the raja arrived with some fruit flies (gnats) but a sticky strip hung over the plants took care of them.None of them minded the cool temps.

the flying dutchman
08-19-2007, 05:20 PM
Sounds like a enlightened country to me. I hope to visit someday.

Michael

You are welcome, maybe you become enlightened too.

Ron

NANAMAN
08-19-2007, 09:55 PM
[QUOTE=kgbenson;16820]Now that could be something to see.
This is a simple setup for tomato & pepper starts in a spare bedroom, regular fluorescents work great with heat mat for sprouting seedlings,Compact Fluorescent for continued growth. Pulley system works great, just lift or lower and it's set. Spot incandescent or CF for side light would be helpful on larger plants.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=4885&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=4885)

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=4886&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=4886)

kgbenson
08-20-2007, 07:46 AM
What is the wattage on that halide?

With that set-up you need to try hydroponics. It is loads of fun and the growth is amazing. Get a bucket system and drop a pup in there under that halid and stand back.

Keith

An old page on Hydroponic bananas: http://www.geocities.com/k2benson/Banana/hydrobanana/Hydroban.html

If I had the space I would use: http://www.genhydro.com/genhydro_US/megafarm.html and replace the airpump life with a small aquarium pump.

You could put one of the super small varieties in: http://www.genhydro.com/genhydro_US/waterfarm.html
But to me that defeats the purpose of seeing the tremendous growth. General Hydro used to make a system where a 3.5 gallon bucket nested ina 5 callon bucket. It was the precursor to the waterfarm. It was perfect for bananas as long as you didn't let the pups break through the sides . . . :)

kgbenson
08-20-2007, 07:50 AM
They grew. they were small plants off ebay and the sikkis and the maurelii had to be potted up twice by the end of winter. the basjoo and rajapuri were potted up once. no spider mites either. I think the raja arrived with some fruit flies (gnats) but a sticky strip hung over the plants took care of them.None of them minded the cool temps.

Cool - Thanks for the info, sounds like a reasonable way to get some smaller plants through the winter. In fact it might be the best way to deal with TC plantlets. Get them in the fall and let them get some size before planting in the field. It mirrors what the commercial folks do with TC plants. I don't think that lighting would work for larger plants or higher temps as well. I think the key is to match the regimen to the application and goals.

The temp thing is also interesting; I think that at lower temps, the lighting need not be as high. Warm it up a bit and the plants would be light starved. It is all a balancing act - sounds like you hit the nail on the head and got a great result.

The spider mites, they can be hit or miss, but when they hit . . . what a pain.

the flying dutchman
08-20-2007, 09:34 AM
The temp thing is also interesting, I think that at lower temps, the lighting need not be as high. Warm it up a bit and the plants would be light starved. It is all a balancing act -


Yeah, I agree with that, the higher the temps the more lumen you need and
the faster they grow.
It is just as keith said all depends on what your goal is.

Ron

NANAMAN
08-20-2007, 08:32 PM
What is the wattage on that halide?

With that set-up you need to try hydroponics. It is loads of fun and the growth is amazing. Get a bucket system and drop a pup in there under that halid and stand back.

Keith

An old page on Hydroponic bananas: http://www.geocities.com/k2benson/Banana/hydrobanana/Hydroban.html

If I had the space I would use: http://www.genhydro.com/genhydro_US/megafarm.html and replace the airpump life with a small aquarium pump.

You could put one of the super small varieties in: http://www.genhydro.com/genhydro_US/waterfarm.html
But to me that defeats the purpose of seeing the tremendous growth. General Hydro used to make a system where a 3.5 gallon bucket nested ina 5 callon bucket. It was the precursor to the waterfarm. It was perfect for bananas as long as you didn't let the pups break through the sides . . . :)

It's not a halide, I know the black box throws people off, but that's a heavy duty outdoor timer. It is 125watt/6400k full spectrum Compact Florescent unit. I have thought about trying hydroponics, but everything that I grow does so well outside that I can't justify spending any more money for a new frontier. Besides I've already been given an ultimatum on indoor growing expenditures! lol. Thanks for all the links and tips, very informative. Brian

harveyc
09-22-2007, 09:30 AM
Keith, I don't have the time to ready the information on all of those links right now, but I suspect I'll be working on Christmas 2008 pretty soon since my wife already says I've bought my own 2007 presents!

sandy0225
09-22-2007, 07:05 PM
I have a 1000w MH light in the basement on a 15' light rail with a mover on it. You can overwinter bananas well on that setup. I use a fan blowing there more for air movement than anything else since the heat dissapates into the rest of the basement. I do have a heat vent open down there to heat it, so it's as warm as the rest of the house.
I received small tc's in January and was able to grow them out to 4" pot size by March with this set up. I mainly use it to grow Victoria waterlilies.
I did have some issues with spider mites from time to time, but I was afraid to mist too much down there to keep the humidity up. I ended up spraying with soap and oil spray and it took care of them. Just don't let those spider mites get too far ahead of you.

Lagniappe
09-25-2007, 08:30 PM
Hi All ,
I overwintered some naners last year with four 26 watt fluorescent twists ( I don't know what color ) in my breakfast nook . They didn't recieve a lot of light from the window but still grew well .
This year , I'm gonna grow them in my shop with a lot of the compact twists .
I found some bathroom vanities that held 6 bulbs each and are rated for 60 watt bulbs . I chose 30 watt because they are so much more economical in both cost and watt per lumen . I 'm mounting six of the vanities on the ceiling or just under it @ 8' .The ceiling is 9' .
I'm going to mount four more ( vanities)on uprights of 2x4's that I can move around and I'm going to wire a plug into each of them . Hopefully ,this will do the job . If I don't get enough growth , I'll add more lights .
I was going to mix full spectrum 5000k and 6500k only but I noticed that a lot of grow bulbs are in the 2500 range . So perhaps I should mix those in as well .( ? )

Pete
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=5932&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5932&ppuser=766)
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=5931&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5931&ppuser=766)

mrbungalow
09-26-2007, 12:47 AM
To be able to grow large plants you need, as noted earlier by Kgbenson, a metal halide bulb. 400W is reccomended for 3-4 large plants, but offcourse this also works for more smaller plants. Metal halide is reccomended for the vegetative stage: iow. growing the green leaves.

HPS (High power Sodium) is great for flowers in the flowering stage, but has little effect on green bananas or plants in general, as I learned the hard way. Sure, my seedlings grew a little under these lights, but the plants got extremely leggy.

The experts say fluorescent lights are great because of their more or less complete spectrum. Because of their relatively small power and capacity, these lights are only reccomended for seedlings. I have still heard of special types, designed for larger plants but these are expensive! $$$

MediaHound
09-26-2007, 01:41 AM
I once read photosynthesis occurs at 5500 degrees kelvin.

I'm also into aquariums, check out this guys comparison of grow bulbs for his algae refugium.

http://www.melevsreef.com/fuge_bulb.html


http://melevsreef.com/pics/1104/test_done.jpg


5100 degrees is apparently much better than 2700.


Therefore, Pete, that 2500 bulb isn't a better choice than your mix of 5-6.5K

Shameless plug - if anyone reading this is into tanks also, why not join my aquarium forum at www.aquariumforum.com :)

harveyc
09-26-2007, 01:54 AM
I'm thinking of going with the track and 1000w MH route to take care of over-wintering about 25 bananas and other plants in 5 gallon pots. Sandy, you said you have a 15' track but I only see an option for a 9' track from your source. I'm not quite understanding how these work and photos would be appreciated to explain how they go together. I didn't see additional extensions available, though a phone call might take care of that. I'm wondering how much track might be needed for that many plants. Sandy, how big of an area are you covering.

I'm wondering how much light can become a problem for my Ae Ae. What do folks think?

Thanks in advance.

P.S. Jarred, you're weird! Or you at least have weird friends growing algae like that!

MediaHound
09-26-2007, 02:09 AM
Heh... :)

I have a setup quite like it too :)

:2140:

The idea is to force a certain kind of algae to grow rapidly in that container. The water in that container (refugium) is connected to the larger display tank. What happens is the algae in the 'fuge depletes the nutrients from the water column, and starves out any other algae from growing (or at least considerably slows it down) in the main tank.
It's very effective!
:nanabath:

MediaHound
09-26-2007, 02:12 AM
I dont know why that tank isnt connected to his main tank, maybe because it was just for the experiment. A typical refugium looks like this:

http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/newbulb_over_fuge1.jpg

This one ^ is clearly a part of the display tank above it. Water overflows from the main tank and drains down into it, and the pump pumps it back up.
Something very familiar to your hydro guys :)

the flying dutchman
09-26-2007, 05:02 AM
Interesting setup jarred, I have not seen that before, I have an aquarium but with alot of plants in it,
so i have no problems with algae either.

Ron

MediaHound
09-26-2007, 11:13 AM
Just to clarify, thats not my tank. That pic is from the page at melevsreef.com I linked to above.


Ron, are you dosing CO2 in your plant tank?

the flying dutchman
09-26-2007, 01:23 PM
Just to clarify, thats not my tank. That pic is from the page at melevsreef.com I linked to above.


Ron, are you dosing CO2 in your plant tank?

no, i never used that nor chemicals for the water nor fertilizers for the
soil or plants. I only occasionally add some Iron to the water.

P.s i will upload some pics to the aquarium board.

Ron

sandy0225
09-26-2007, 04:19 PM
We bought two tracks and hooked them together. Will send pictures in a couple of days. Things are pretty hectic right now

harveyc
09-27-2007, 01:27 AM
We bought two tracks and hooked them together. Will send pictures in a couple of days. Things are pretty hectic right now

Thanks, Sandy. Very hectic for me right now also. The only hurry is because of my fear of forgetting everything.

harveyc
10-07-2007, 01:07 AM
I tentatively plan to buy a 1,000w MH light and a 9' light rail. Can anyone suggest a particular light and/or source?

I plan to light about an 8' x 12' area in my shop to overwinter many of my bananas (about 20 in pots) and a few other plants.

Thanks!

P.S. The largest of my 2 Ae Ae which spend most of the time indoors right now opened up a new leaf today. Made my day!

the flying dutchman
10-07-2007, 03:40 AM
Harvey, it is better to have 2 or 3 400 watt lamps than one 1000 watt in
my opinion. It covers a greater area.
Ofcourse this is when you want fast growth, just for overwintering and slow
growth I think you need much lesser wattage.
Also be aware, if you want to use a timer you need special relais to turn the lamps on/off. Not a
normal timer you use in the house wich can burn or stuck.
1000 watt is used by tomatoe growers here in Holland.

I am now trying low-energy lights in my basement. I have 4 bulbs wich
gives me a total of 400 watt, I can't use a normal timer with those either so
i have to look for a special relais to switch them on. Still working on it.
Ofcourse those are not grow-lights but I will see what happens this winter,
it is just an experiment.


Ron



Ron

harveyc
10-07-2007, 09:38 AM
I was trying to keep the cost down, Ron, since I don't know how long this project will last. Unless I ended up with a mover that rotated, I would need 2 movers for 2 lights, 3 for 3, etc., right?

Can you point me to some site with the kind of timer that I would need?

Thanks!

the flying dutchman
10-07-2007, 10:56 AM
Harvey, I don't know why you need those movers on a rail? I think you'd better of with more lamps with a lower wattage without a rail.
The experience is that normal house-timers, altough the label will say it
can take 3500 watt, will stuck or burn easily.
Generally they use a magnet-relais with those high wattage lamps. But
I am sure where you buy the lamps they will tell you. Just wanted to tell
you this because security first.
Also you probably need more, you have to get rid of the heat and let fresh
air in for CO2, because without CO2 they won't grow.
I am trying to find a setup that gives me slow-growth or better chances
for survival. But when you want year-round growing, thats not easy.

Ron

harveyc
10-07-2007, 11:16 AM
Harvey, I don't know why you need those movers on a rail? I think you'd better of with more lamps with a lower wattage without a rail.
Ron

Ron, from the link that Keith gave earlier:
http://www.lightrail3.com/

Why move your light?
Moving one light on a 6 foot rail should increase your light's area of coverage by approximately 1.6. This translates into lower operating cost due to higher single light yields. The lumens produced by a grow light decrease the greater the distance from the bulb. To avoid plant killing heat associated with stationary grow lights, the bulb must be kept at a greater distance from the plants. For example, your plants end up getting far less lumens than you are actually paying for. By moving your light, you may run a tighter plant to lamp tolerance (using more of what you are paying for) without generating plant killing heat. Again, this translates into lower operating cost through higher yields. Moving your light from one end of your garden and back will give your garden light at a much greater variety of angles. This allows more light to reach the foliage at the bottom of the plant, which is normally shaded by the foliage at the top of the plant. As a greater portion of the plant takes part in the process of photosynthesis, lower operating costs result from greater yields.

This is the sort of setup Sandy used last year and she was pleased with the results. She has photos of it in her gallery.

the flying dutchman
10-07-2007, 12:22 PM
Well, if it works for Sandy it will be okay, I don't see the advantages looking
at the growth-habit of a banana, i think it will be happy with light coming
straight from above but thats just my opinion.




Ron

harveyc
10-07-2007, 12:31 PM
Ron, if you want to capture the full use of the light, you want the light close to the plants but you will burn your plants if you don't have it on a mover. So a plant gets full light for periods of time only, as I understand it.

I will be able to find a commercial timer without much difficulty, I believe.

Thanks again.

bencelest
10-07-2007, 04:32 PM
How do you get rid of spiders mites may I ask if they strike your plants?

harveyc
10-07-2007, 05:13 PM
Benny, I haven't had to deal with such a problem yet, but I personally would probably wait for a pleasant day and take all my plants outside and spray them and bring them back inside 4-6 hours later. I have a few inside right now (Ae Ae and Siam 50/50) and haven't had a problem yet. Since this is going to be my shop, I probably would spray inside if I had to with a soap spray.

What have others done?

Lard Greystoke
10-07-2007, 07:12 PM
How do you get rid of spiders mites may I ask if they strike your plants?

Lard Greystoke replies:

Breathing organs of insects and other arthropods are shielded with a waxy layer which renders them waterproof. Adding soap or detergent to water reduces the surface tension and defeats the arthropods's defense mechanism. Spraying with soapy water works quite well provided you hit the arthropod directly. After the water dries there is no residual effect. The technique will not work on eggs so repeat applications will be needed. Be sure to spray the undersides of leaves, junctions with stems, etc.

Note: detergent water can have a similar effect on the waxy layer which protects plant leaves and can produce superficial discoloration. Banana leaves have a fairly thick layer and should withstand a few soakings with minimal or no superficial damage.

Tropicman
10-07-2007, 11:19 PM
Depending on the size of bananas your talking about,I've read the roots need to be above soil temperature of 53* to keep growing ,and the leaves can take a little cooler air temperature,so why not use heating soil cables in your pots,or heating mats under your pots???
The DCavendish I have growing in the soil in the greenhouse has a heating cable soil 72* temperature rating,and it never knew there was a winter in Kansas!!!!

harveyc
10-07-2007, 11:53 PM
Depending on the size of bananas your talking about,I've read the roots need to be above soil temperature of 53* to keep growing ,and the leaves can take a little cooler air temperature,so why not use heating soil cables in your pots,or heating mats under your pots???
The DCavendish I have growing in the soil in the greenhouse has a heating cable soil 72* temperature rating,and it never knew there was a winter in Kansas!!!!


I don't know who you are writing to. This is a discussion topic on lighting but, in the event you were suggesting this to me, I plan to over-winter in my shop since it is already heated and I have the room in it. No need for me to spend money on cables, etc. I do have some mats that I'm using right now for a small Ae Ae pup and some other plants since it gets too cool at night here right now.

Tropicman
10-08-2007, 09:24 AM
I'm sorry,I was writing this to Ben Green,who started this topic,about making a greenhouse in his garage,and was just suggesting a way to keep his bananas growing somewhat with the use of lights.
I was just adding that the soil heating coils would help keep the soil warm to a certain temperature,which would keep his bananas growing.
The cement in the garage will most likely get cold and transfer that cooler temperature up into the soil of the pot,which will slow the growth down to a slow trickle if not stop the growth completely,but the lights and the warm of the air will maintain,what is already there on the plant.
I know this to be true,for I live in Kansas,and have tried the light and greenhouse in the garage one winter.
Also had to cut back on the water at least half as much,just want to keep them on the very light moist side,because root rot doesn't need much to start to work on wet cool soil in a container,especially with bananas.
Another little tip,I used the slow release granular fertilizer,for it needs a temperature of about 70* soil temperature to release the fertilizer.
Good luck,and yes it can be done,also I found it to be easier with a plant under 4 ft tall compared to a larger plant 6ft or more,and I really don't why either.
Don

bencelest
10-08-2007, 01:03 PM
Thanks for the info guys about ridding spider mites. I don't have them in my bananas but my apple trees.
Harvey, BTW I have a bunch of pups of my bananas that I started growing 6 months ago. And separated them to their mother.