Log in

View Full Version : What are the Best Dwarf Varieties for Containers for the Midwest? Dwarf Gros Michel?


SSP
04-24-2015, 02:36 AM
Hi, yep, we are in Ohio, looking to be able to grow bananas that we can take inside to overwinter.
Or possibly be able to time it right to grow up to 5-6 feet indoors over winter, then take out over summer, but not sure if that timing works since think the flowering and fruiting season is longer than the entire summer, which doesn't even start until plant is full height, but I could be wrong?

I've always been interested in trying Gros Michel.. I have heard about some dwarf cultivars called Cocos, Highgate, and even shorter, Lowgate.. but never find anyone who has them or even has heard of them.
The main variety available is the Dwarf Cavendish, which I believe is just the same as you buy at the store.

Any thoughts on this? Are Gros Michel's actually much better? If so, is it possible to grow a dwarf cultivar in containers and overwinter indoors?

raggedyredhead
04-24-2015, 04:42 PM
Hi, yep, we are in Ohio, looking to be able to grow bananas that we can take inside to overwinter.
Or possibly be able to time it right to grow up to 5-6 feet indoors over winter, then take out over summer, but not sure if that timing works since think the flowering and fruiting season is longer than the entire summer, which doesn't even start until plant is full height, but I could be wrong?

I've always been interested in trying Gros Michel.. I have heard about some dwarf cultivars called Cocos, Highgate, and even shorter, Lowgate.. but never find anyone who has them or even has heard of them.
The main variety available is the Dwarf Cavendish, which I believe is just the same as you buy at the store.

Any thoughts on this? Are Gros Michel's actually much better? If so, is it possible to grow a dwarf cultivar in containers and overwinter indoors?

Hi, I grow Dwarf Cavendish, Gran Nain and Dwarf Red indoors. They do well as long as they're provided with good light and less water in the Winter. I move them a pot size larger at a time, I also have Thai Black which I plant directly in the garden weather permitting. These get very large. I cut them back to about four feet, dig them out and store in the basement bare root. Hope this info helps. Good Luck !!!

cincinnana
04-25-2015, 08:12 PM
First post:08:...Welcome to the Jungle!!!! :woohoonaner:

Our average grow season is 170+- frost to frost.

Our season is not long enough to complete the full fruit cycle......But you might be able to pull it off over the winter in a hot house.

Cost to upkeep usually is a factor to keep this plant viable over the season to produce fruit .
Just a guess for cost local:
Kroger/Publix: .40 a pound
Me/You in containers: 15.00+- pound


Do try a cavendish as the plant is easy to get........as the saying goes.. Homegrown tomatoes always taste better....There is no comparison, same way with this plant.

SSP
04-25-2015, 08:31 PM
First post:08:...Welcome to the Jungle!!!! :woohoonaner:

Our average grow season is 170+- frost to frost.

The season is not long enough to complete the full fruit cycle......But you might be able to pull it off over the winter in a hot house.

Cost to upkeep usually is a factor to keep this plant viable over the seasons to produce fruit .

Try a cavendish also as the plant is easy to get........as the saying goes.. Homegrown tomatoes always taste better....There is no comparison.

Hi! Hey a fellow Buckeye who is also interested in growing bananas... :03: some might say its "bananas", but that's probably why it makes me want to do it even more so!
Cavendish is extremely available, it seems, but not sure of the quality compared to others. I've always been interested to try the Gros Michel or similar, since it was "the" banana sold up until the 60's or 70's. I never had a chance to try it before it was wiped out commercially. I hear was much better tasting than Cavendish, which apparently is what all supermarkets carry now. But maybe Cavendish is in fact, the closest there is to Gros Michel.. I have no way of knowing, but I'm sure lots of you guys might.
Dwarf Cavendish would be easy to bring in the house overwinter.
I guess I'm looking for the closest practical dwarf variety that is the closest to Gros Michel. Maybe that would be the common Dwarf Cavendish?

cincinnana
04-25-2015, 08:45 PM
Hi! Hey a fellow Buckeye who is also interested in growing bananas... :03: some might say its "bananas", but that's probably why it makes me want to do it even more so!
Cavendish is extremely available, it seems, but not sure of the quality compared to others. I've always been interested to try the Gros Michel or similar, since it was "the" banana sold up until the 60's or 70's. I never had a chance to try it before it was wiped out commercially. I hear was much better tasting than Cavendish, which apparently is what all supermarkets carry now. But maybe Cavendish is in fact, the closest there is to Gros Michel.. I have no way of knowing, but I'm sure lots of you guys might.
Dwarf Cavendish would be easy to bring in the house overwinter.
I guess I'm looking for the closest practical dwarf variety that is the closest to Gros Michel. Maybe that would be the common Dwarf Cavendish?

You may pick up a Gros M within these forums from a few good members to get started.

Another very short cycle plant will be Musa Viente Cohol.....I have one that might give me a flower this year, but who knows ......our grow window is very short.

SSP
04-25-2015, 09:10 PM
You may pick up a Gros M within these forums from a few good members to get started.

Another very short cycle plant will be Musa Viente Cohol.....I have one that might give me a flower this year, but who knows ......our grow window is very short.

But how would I deal with the height of a GM? I'd have to bring it in the house over winter, so the max would be 6 feet or so. Unless there are GM dwarfs this short? Or is it possible to time it so that the growth would still be under 6 ft. by June, (when it would be able to be taken outside), and able to complete fruiting by late September or so? Once outside, of course it doesn't matter how tall it gets, as long as fruiting is done before it gets too cool. Then I could cut down main stem and bring the container with the new sucker in over winter and repeat. I don't know if the mathematics on this is feasible with a GM though?

cincinnana
04-26-2015, 06:39 AM
But how would I deal with the height of a GM? I'd have to bring it in the house over winter, so the max would be 6 feet or so. Unless there are GM dwarfs this short? Or is it possible to time it so that the growth would still be under 6 ft. by June, (when it would be able to be taken outside), and able to complete fruiting by late September or so? Once outside, of course it doesn't matter how tall it gets, as long as fruiting is done before it gets too cool. Then I could cut down main stem and bring the container with the new sucker in over winter and repeat. I don't know if the mathematics on this is feasible with a GM though?

Our zone 6 challenge is once the grow season starts rolling it is time to shut down for the fall/ winter. We just do not have the climate to see these plants all the way through the cycle, there are not enough consecutive hot days for this to reliably happen.

We (the bananas) need another 8 months of hot summer to fill out those plants .
You might get a flower or even some fruit but having it mature over the winter to quality tasting fruit is another task even with short cycle plants. But it can be done in a greenhouse or under grow lights.

Some of our other forum members in the tropical zones can go from pup to edible fruit very quickly.

Many forum members cut the banana stem in half to make it fit in their homes and start over the next spring.
And some pop them out of the ground and store them barefoot in their basements while others just keep them in a container all year.
All ways are acceptable, just do what you can afford and is easiest.

SSP
04-26-2015, 12:28 PM
Our zone 6 challenge is once the grow season starts rolling it is time to shut down for the fall/ winter. We just do not have the climate to see these plants all the way through the cycle, there are not enough consecutive hot days for this to reliably happen.

We (the bananas) need another 8 months of hot summer to fill out those plants .
You might get a flower or even some fruit but having it mature over the winter to quality tasting fruit is another task even with short cycle plants. But it can be done in a greenhouse or under grow lights.

Some of our other forum members in the tropical zones can go from pup to edible fruit very quickly.

Many forum members cut the banana stem in half to make it fit in their homes and start over the next spring.
And some pop them out of the ground and store them barefoot in their basements while others just keep them in a container all year.
All ways are acceptable, just do what you can afford and is easiest.

Cutting the stem in half would ruin any chance of it fruiting, wouldn't it?
Do bananas set fruit and mature based on daylength (i.e. certain specific times of the year), or just based on temperature? Or a certain time after the pup starts?
So from flowering to fruiting is more than 4 months, even in short cycle cultivars, correct? If GM didn't flower until it is well over 6 feet, then it would not be possible to try it the way I mentioned, even if it were daylength neutral.
It is always possible to use heat and grow lights indoors, the only limiting factor is height. Has to be under 6 feet to have indoors for us.

SSP
04-26-2015, 12:32 PM
Hi, I grow Dwarf Cavendish, Gran Nain and Dwarf Red indoors. They do well as long as they're provided with good light and less water in the Winter. I move them a pot size larger at a time, I also have Thai Black which I plant directly in the garden weather permitting. These get very large. I cut them back to about four feet, dig them out and store in the basement bare root. Hope this info helps. Good Luck !!!

Hi! Do you get fruit from your Thai Black? In NJ? If so, when does it fruit?

raggedyredhead
04-26-2015, 03:55 PM
Hi! Do you get fruit from your Thai Black? In NJ? If so, when does it fruit?

Hi, Thai Black is an ornamental. They are beautiful and get huge. I have had mine get about 12ft or more. Pseudo stem gets really deep gray. They do produce seedy bananas in the wild. People are amazed when they see them.

CountryBoy1981
04-26-2015, 09:53 PM
Hi, yep, we are in Ohio, looking to be able to grow bananas that we can take inside to overwinter.
Or possibly be able to time it right to grow up to 5-6 feet indoors over winter, then take out over summer, but not sure if that timing works since think the flowering and fruiting season is longer than the entire summer, which doesn't even start until plant is full height, but I could be wrong?

I've always been interested in trying Gros Michel.. I have heard about some dwarf cultivars called Cocos, Highgate, and even shorter, Lowgate.. but never find anyone who has them or even has heard of them.
The main variety available is the Dwarf Cavendish, which I believe is just the same as you buy at the store.

Any thoughts on this? Are Gros Michel's actually much better? If so, is it possible to grow a dwarf cultivar in containers and overwinter indoors?

As far as I am aware, no one in the continental U.S. has the real deal "cocos," so the gros michel you can try is a 12' plus plant. With the limited growing that you have, I would recommend a dwarf orinoco, raja puri, or dwarf namwah. The fruit of those varities take a lot longer to ripen than a dwarf cavendish, veinte cohol, etc., but these varieties do not require the heat and humidity of the latter.

robguz24
04-27-2015, 12:26 PM
The dwarf GMs I have are still 8-12' tall when flowering. Not huge but taller than most Dwarfs like Double Mahoi.

SSP
04-27-2015, 02:30 PM
As far as I am aware, no one in the continental U.S. has the real deal "cocos," so the gros michel you can try is a 12' plus plant. With the limited growing that you have, I would recommend a dwarf orinoco, raja puri, or dwarf namwah. The fruit of those varities take a lot longer to ripen than a dwarf cavendish, veinte cohol, etc., but these varieties do not require the heat and humidity of the latter.

What is the cycle length for a GM? (From pup to bloom/bloom to fruiting)?
I was offered a Patupi by someone here, is that a cultivar of GM or something totally different? It's supposed to be very short cycle.

PR-Giants
04-27-2015, 09:22 PM
What is the cycle length for a GM? (From pup to bloom/bloom to fruiting)?
I was offered a Patupi by someone here, is that a cultivar of GM or something totally different? It's supposed to be very short cycle.

You are correct that the Patupi has a very short cycle, about 35-42 days, and probably is much better option than a Veinte Cohol. Your environmental conditions are going to reduce the size of the fruit and the VC has a small fruit to begin with, so if it does produce fruit you should only expect a few grams. The Patupi has a large 8" fruit to start with so if it does produce fruit they should still be reasonably large. You should be cautious when purchasing a Patupi or really any cultivar, that it is what they're calling it. I have an photo album titled Patupi that will give you info on what the plant should look like. If your sale falls through, pm me and I'll add your name to the waiting list.

venturabananas
04-29-2015, 01:38 PM
What is the cycle length for a GM? (From pup to bloom/bloom to fruiting)?
I was offered a Patupi by someone here, is that a cultivar of GM or something totally different? It's supposed to be very short cycle.

It is not a GM cultivar, something totally different.

Cycle length is affect by genetics and the environment, in a complicated way. For example, a cultivar that is "normal" cycle in the tropics, like Cavendish, is long cycle in my climate, whereas Namwah, which is on the long side in the tropics isn't much longer in my climate. The result is that they have about the same cycle length in my climate.

SSP
04-29-2015, 02:00 PM
It is not a GM cultivar, something totally different.

Cycle length is affect by genetics and the environment, in a complicated way. For example, a cultivar that is "normal" cycle in the tropics, like Cavendish, is long cycle in my climate, whereas Namwah, which is on the long side in the tropics isn't much longer in my climate. The result is that they have about the same cycle length in my climate.

Anyone know the quality and flavor of Patupi compared to Gros Michel?
Closer to Gros Michel than Cavendish? Or is Cavendish closer?
I am trying to figure out my best cultivars to be able to plan timing so that I can grow indoors over winter while plant is under 5 feet or so, and take outdoors in June and have flowering/fruiting in June-August, when temps are usually 80-90 and humid. I would love to try some sort of Gros Michel, but need to know what options are most realistic for me.

venturabananas
04-29-2015, 02:50 PM
I would love to try some sort of Gros Michel, but need to know what options are most realistic for me.

I don't think Gros Michel is a good option for you. Even the dwarf varieties are pretty darn large. I'm not saying it's impossible, just that fruiting any variety, even the best suited, will be a challenge.

PR-Giants
04-29-2015, 08:31 PM
Cycle length is affect by genetics and the environment, in a complicated way. For example, a cultivar that is "normal" cycle in the tropics, like Cavendish, is long cycle in my climate, whereas Namwah, which is on the long side in the tropics isn't much longer in my climate. The result is that they have about the same cycle length in my climate.

The more you know about cycle lengths and stress the less complicated it is. For example, I grow some cultivars with "short" cycles and "normal" cycles that will retain similar cycle lengths in your climate depending on the month they flower. There's more than enough information available on the internet for people to make good choices on which cultivars to grow. I read a very interesting paper that compared suckers and tissue cultures from mother plants grown in a stressed environment to suckers and tissue cultures from mother plants grown in a "normal" environment, they studied all 4 types from multiple cultivars in both environments.


A little reading can saves years of "trial and error".

SSP
04-29-2015, 08:36 PM
I don't think Gros Michel is a good option for you. Even the dwarf varieties are pretty darn large. I'm not saying it's impossible, just that fruiting any variety, even the best suited, will be a challenge.

Apparently, Patupi flowers and fruits in about 6 weeks, one of the shortest cycles out of all Musa, from what I hear. Even if a plant would get tall, as long as it is during the time it can be outside, and gets done with fruiting before hot weather stops, it wouldn't matter. As long as it got no larger than 5 feet before June. Once outside, wouldn't matter if it got 10-15 feet. I just don't know the exact growth pattern of bananas, that's why I need to rely on advice from everyone here.

PR-Giants
04-29-2015, 08:37 PM
Anyone know the quality and flavor of Patupi compared to Gros Michel?
Closer to Gros Michel than Cavendish? Or is Cavendish closer?
I am trying to figure out my best cultivars to be able to plan timing so that I can grow indoors over winter while plant is under 5 feet or so, and take outdoors in June and have flowering/fruiting in June-August, when temps are usually 80-90 and humid. I would love to try some sort of Gros Michel, but need to know what options are most realistic for me.

A planting, similar to your idea with the Gros Michel, would probably take 7-8 months to flower in the tropics, not 30 to 60 days.

SSP
04-29-2015, 08:43 PM
A planting, similar to your idea with the Gros Michel, would probably take 7-8 months to flower in the tropics, not 30 to 60 days.

So you don't think there is any realistic way to have a Dwarf Gros Michel indoors for most of the year be able to flower/fruit?
So I am left with a Dwarf Cavendish (which can?), or a very short cycle like Patupi? Which is closer to Gros Michel in flavor/texture?

cincinnana
04-29-2015, 08:44 PM
Here is a plant that you want.....SDC.
This the size, height, girth.
There is really not a plant you want that will meet your criteria.

Most Dwarf plants will exceed 8-+ feet with leaves...Banana ‘Super Dwarf Cavendish’ (Musa acuminata) (http://www.logees.com/banana-super-dwarf-cavendish-musa-acuminata.html)

How mucn are you really willing to spend to have this plant and grow it out for about 2 lbs of bananas...once.
50-100.;)

cincinnana
04-29-2015, 09:06 PM
Apparently, Patupi flowers and fruits in about 6 weeks, one of the shortest cycles out of all Musa, from what I hear. Even if a plant would get tall, as long as it is during the time it can be outside, and gets done with fruiting before hot weather stops, it wouldn't matter. As long as it got no larger than 5 feet before June. Once outside, wouldn't matter if it got 10-15 feet. I just don't know the exact growth pattern of bananas, that's why I need to rely on advice from everyone here.

Not in our zone6......ever.

SOOOOO who ever is telling you this ....says this plant will fruit faster than a hybrid tomato such as Early Girl ......LOL.

Please send me one also (as I had asked before to the same Patupi seller) .I willl test it in the garden....

SSP
04-29-2015, 09:12 PM
Here is a plant that you want.....SDC.
This the size, height, girth.
There is really not a plant you want that will meet your criteria.

Most Dwarf plants will exceed 8-+ feet with leaves...Banana ‘Super Dwarf Cavendish’ (Musa acuminata) (http://www.logees.com/banana-super-dwarf-cavendish-musa-acuminata.html)

How mucn are you really willing to spend to have this plant and grow it out for about 2 lbs of bananas...once.
50-100.;)

Once you have a plant, would it not keep renewing with suckers? I probably could handle a regular Dwarf Cavendish, Super Dwarf seems to make only tiny bananas. I could also handle Patupi, since if the cycle is only 6 weeks, that's enough time to do flowering and fruiting outdoors in the hot summer, sucker growth could be indoors for the 7 months or so leading up to summer. Would that be feasible?
What varieties have you grown successfully in here Ohio?

SSP
04-29-2015, 09:16 PM
Not in our zone6......ever.

SOOOOO who ever is telling you this ....says this plant will fruit faster than a hybrid tomato such as Early Girl ......LOL.

Please send me one also (as I had asked before to the same Patupi seller) .I willl test it in the garden....

I think he has a waiting list for when he gets pups, not sure?
Here is the info I saw:
Musa Patupi - Bananas Wiki (http://www.bananas.org/wiki/Musa_Patupi)

Vudu Papua (PNG004) (ITC-0590) - Papua New Guinea
Patupi (PNG225) (ITC-0848) - Papua New Guinea
Huki West - Solomon Islands

Time To Bloom - 5 to 7 months
Bloom To Harvest - 5 to 6 weeks
Mature Height - 2 to 2.5 meters

Sounds almost perfect for indoors (winter) / outdoors (summer) in Ohio, if this info is accurate?

cincinnana
04-29-2015, 10:36 PM
I think he has a waiting list for when he gets pups, not sure?
Here is the info I saw:
Musa Patupi - Bananas Wiki (http://www.bananas.org/wiki/Musa_Patupi)

Vudu Papua (PNG004) (ITC-0590) - Papua New Guinea
Patupi (PNG225) (ITC-0848) - Papua New Guinea
Huki West - Solomon Islands

Time To Bloom - 5 to 7 months
Bloom To Harvest - 5 to 6 weeks
Mature Height - 2 to 2.5 meters

Sounds almost perfect for indoors (winter) / outdoors (summer) in Ohio, if this info is accurate?

Looks like time to bloom +time to harvest = 264+- days

Our grow zone6 is 170+- days frost to frost....

If you decide to put the plant under lights( 250$+-) you will be pressed to have fruit you can even eat.


Are you willing to spend 350.00+- for one banana??

cincinnana
04-29-2015, 10:49 PM
Cutting the stem in half would ruin any chance of it fruiting, wouldn't it?
.
Here is a photo from another great forum members gallery....
Photo is of a cut pstem that had a flower/bananas on the way.
This member cut this plant to bring in the house to overwinter and the plant just happened to have a flower on the way, thus this photo.
.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=55638&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=55638&ppuser=11752)

SSP
04-29-2015, 10:49 PM
Looks like time to bloom +time to harvest = 264+- days

Our grow zone6 is 170+- days frost to frost....

If you decide to put the plant under lights( 250$+-) you will be pressed to have fruit you can even eat.


Are you willing to spend 350.00+- for one banana??

The fruiting and flowering (if it is indeed only 6 weeks) could be outdoors in June-August, when it is plenty hot and humid. Wouldn't that work?
The other several months would be indoors with sun/lights.. I thought bananas could grow well indoors.. How do you grow them in Ohio?
Or don't you get fruit?

cincinnana
04-29-2015, 11:19 PM
The fruiting and flowering (if it is indeed only 6 weeks) could be outdoors in June-August, when it is plenty hot and humid. Wouldn't that work?
The other several months would be indoors with sun/lights.. I thought bananas could grow well indoors.. How do you grow them in Ohio?
Or don't you get fruit?

Heck yeh ...go for it.......
For some more great info check out the SEARCH button for awesome plants you can also grow in your zone..Also do not forget the local big box stores for banana plants.
Another great source of info is Youtube/growlights/bananaplant/indoors..

SSP
04-29-2015, 11:57 PM
Heck yeh ...go for it.......
For some more great info check out the SEARCH button for awesome plants you can also grow in your zone..Also do not forget the local big box stores for banana plants.
Another great source of info is Youtube/growlights/bananaplant/indoors..

We grow all sorts of plants including lots of native and Ohio endangered species that we get from the Nature Conservancy, also grow "giant" sunflowers, 1000 pound pumpkins, 20 foot plus corn, you name it! (Yes we are one of those crazy people who do that sort of thing). We do have a lighting setup with full spectrum lights and sun rooms, we also grow wild blueberries, black raspberries and goji berries, and supposedly bananas are basically a giant yellow berry (botanically speaking) so figured why not give it a go! Seriously though it would be something "different" to grow something so tropical here in Ohio. I started seeing advertisements with people growing fruiting bananas in their homes, then jumped on the idea of something even better than the Cavendish they all sell, and always wondered what the Gros Michel was like. But being able to grow any cultivar to significant fruiting would be something.

cincinnana
04-30-2015, 05:50 AM
We grow all sorts of plants including lots of native and Ohio endangered species that we get from the Nature Conservancy, also grow "giant" sunflowers, 1000 pound pumpkins, 20 foot plus corn, you name it! (Yes we are one of those crazy people who do that sort of thing). We do have a lighting setup with full spectrum lights and sun rooms, we also grow wild blueberries, black raspberries and goji berries, and supposedly bananas are basically a giant yellow berry (botanically speaking) so figured why not give it a go! Seriously though it would be something "different" to grow something so tropical here in Ohio. I started seeing advertisements with people growing fruiting bananas in their homes, then jumped on the idea of something even better than the Cavendish they all sell, and always wondered what the Gros Michel was like. But being able to grow any cultivar to significant fruiting would be something.

There is a great thread about grow lights and bananas in the forum that that could be of benefit.

Your setup sounds awesome....
Which conservancy do you deal with.?

It is a shame that your limited to 6 feet high as you stated in previous post you could really grow a jungle of bananas in your growrooms.

Why did you make them so small?

Post a photo if you can that would be cool.



Have you thought of making a banana topsy turvey??

Sdc upside down sounds just up your alley if height is an issue:woohoonaner:

PR-Giants
04-30-2015, 09:52 AM
I think he has a waiting list for when he gets pups, not sure?

I'd guess the member has dozens of pups and is just being conscientious by waiting for the initial results from the first wave of members that received them.

:waving:

SSP
04-30-2015, 05:28 PM
There is a great thread about grow lights and bananas in the forum that that could be of benefit.

Your setup sounds awesome....
Which conservancy do you deal with.?

It is a shame that your limited to 6 feet high as you stated in previous post you could really grow a jungle of bananas in your growrooms.

Why did you make them so small?

Post a photo if you can that would be cool.



Have you thought of making a banana topsy turvey??

Sdc upside down sounds just up your alley if height is an issue:woohoonaner:


It's the Nature Conservancy of Ohio Protect Ohio Natural Preservation | The Nature Conservancy (http://www.nature.org/ourinitiatives/regions/northamerica/unitedstates/ohio/placesweprotect/index.htm)

They work here with the Kitty Todd Center and Oak Openings preserve, which has brought back several endangered species, both plants and animals. One federally endangered species of butterfly as well, the Karner Blue, it was bordering on extinction. It was brought back into the Kitty Todd preserve and then Oak Openings. We visit both each year, really amazing experience! They have a special limited sale of native species of plants each year (coming up next weekend, actually), if they feel you know what you are doing they will sell special propagations of endangered and rare species of the local genotype for you to help grow and propagate. Ohio Junegrass is one, which we grow, as well as Ohio's species of prickly pear cactus. The whole northern part of Ohio used to all be wetlands, which was about as important to as many species as the rainforests are. Oak Openings and Kitty Todd are probably the only places that are left of what used to be here for thousands of years.
We also do rearing and tagging of Monarch butterflies, which were nearing a threatened status in recent years. It's really rewarding to be able to take part in such things.

We didn't build anything to be a grow room, we just use a room in our house that gets lots of sun :) We also have fluorescent lighting setup for starting veggie and flower seedlings, which consists of cool white tubes in addition to full spectrum (warmer) tubes. Doesn't use up too much electricity, and all set up on timers. Grows amazingly strong seedlings, too.

Funny you should mention that, I actually have thought of the possibility of growing a tall banana horizontally or on an angle! Didn't know if it would distort the growth though.
The picture you posted of the cut stem, its possible to grow out fruit on a cut stem? :eek: How?

You never mentioned which bananas you have been successful with in Ohio and getting to fruit and how you do it?

venturabananas
04-30-2015, 06:25 PM
The picture you posted of the cut stem, its possible to grow out fruit on a cut stem? :eek: How?

If you search around on the org you'll find some threads on this topic.

The short answer is that it is possible, but relies on luck or great ability to time when to cut to ensure you have an adequate number of leaves emerge before the bunch does to fill the fruit. Without enough leaf surface area to provide carbohydrates to fill the fruits, you'll end up with small fruit or fruit that never fill. I have unintentionally done some experiments like this my yard.

cincinnana
05-01-2015, 06:57 AM
I
You never mentioned which bananas you have been successful with in Ohio and getting to fruit and how you do it?

Thanks for the info on the conservancy:)

I have volunteered on honeysuckle pulls locally at ours. ARG.

I cannot grow my plants for fruit but I do get flowers and small inedible bananas at times.

The foliage of this plant is just awesome, thats why I have them.

All my plants are landscape plants and are in irrigated containers tucked in throughout the garden.
Some plants are big and some are small.

You can grow any banana plant you wish in our zone, having the means to overwinter and keeping them healthy is the true challenge we have, if you get a flower or immature fruit at the end of the season it is a bonus.:woohoonaner:

Getting consistent/anticipated results is even better.

Do check out the other plants mentioned in the previous posts they might work for you and the sellers are reputable.

A list of what I grow is in my profile if you want to check it out.

SSP
05-01-2015, 10:21 PM
Thanks for the info on the conservancy:)

I have volunteered on honeysuckle pulls locally at ours. ARG.

I cannot grow my plants for fruit but I do get flowers and small inedible bananas at times.

The foliage of this plant is just awesome, thats why I have them.

All my plants are landscape plants and are in irrigated containers tucked in throughout the garden.
Some plants are big and some are small.

You can grow any banana plant you wish in our zone, having the means to overwinter and keeping them healthy is the true challenge we have, if you get a flower or immature fruit at the end of the season it is a bonus.:woohoonaner:

Getting consistent/anticipated results is even better.

Do check out the other plants mentioned in the previous posts they might work for you and the sellers are reputable.

A list of what I grow is in my profile if you want to check it out.

Is it really that difficult to get full fruiting here? What is the determining factor? Winter temps?

RRedBBeard
05-07-2015, 05:10 AM
The more you know about cycle lengths and stress the less complicated it is. For example, I grow some cultivars with "short" cycles and "normal" cycles that will retain similar cycle lengths in your climate depending on the month they flower. There's more than enough information available on the internet for people to make good choices on which cultivars to grow. I read a very interesting paper that compared suckers and tissue cultures from mother plants grown in a stressed environment to suckers and tissue cultures from mother plants grown in a "normal" environment, they studied all 4 types from multiple cultivars in both environments.


A little reading can saves years of "trial and error".

Could you post a link to that study please?

SSP--what banana cultivar did you finally select, and what was your experience with that?

Thanks,
--Rick in CT

PR-Giants
05-11-2015, 04:34 PM
The short answer is that it is possible, but relies on luck or great ability to time when to cut to ensure you have an adequate number of leaves emerge before the bunch does to fill the fruit.



It obviously damages the plant, but what do YOU consider is needed for the "adequate number of leaves emerge before the bunch does to fill the fruit." The "luck or great ability to time " is the easy part in the Tropics.

If it's done early enough and the plant has time to grow close to it's normal height the fruit fills but bunch size is dramatically reduced.

It appears your goal is to do it close to bud emergence, but how close?

What do YOU consider perfect to be?

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=54210 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=54210)

Nicolas Naranja
05-11-2015, 07:51 PM
Veintecohol is dwarf and fills out quickly...the fruit are tasty.
I have a variety that came to me as Baloy. It fruits at 4-4.5 feet and makes a 20-25 lbs bunch of cavendish type bananas.

PR-Giants
05-12-2015, 07:21 AM
Veintecohol is dwarf and fills out quickly...the fruit are tasty.


Veinte Cohol is not a dwarf...but they are tasty...eating some right now :08:

Here they grow to 9 feet.

I think South Georgia was the furthest north that someone was somewhat successful...they had a greenhouse...and averaged 1 oz. fruit.

Nicolas Naranja
05-12-2015, 10:46 PM
Mine has fruited at 5.5' - 6' under well-fertilized and irrigated conditions. The pictures on the TARS site seem to show a short plant. But, I have seen wide variations in other varieties at different locations.

Veinte Cohol is not a dwarf...but they are tasty...eating some right now :08:

Here they grow to 9 feet.

I think South Georgia was the furthest north that someone was somewhat successful...they had a greenhouse...and averaged 1 oz. fruit.

luteo
05-15-2015, 10:12 PM
It's the Nature Conservancy of Ohio Protect Ohio Natural Preservation | The Nature Conservancy (http://www.nature.org/ourinitiatives/regions/northamerica/unitedstates/ohio/placesweprotect/index.htm)

They work here with the Kitty Todd Center and Oak Openings preserve, which has brought back several endangered species, both plants and animals. One federally endangered species of butterfly as well, the Karner Blue, it was bordering on extinction. It was brought back into the Kitty Todd preserve and then Oak Openings. We visit both each year, really amazing experience! They have a special limited sale of native species of plants each year (coming up next weekend, actually), if they feel you know what you are doing they will sell special propagations of endangered and rare species of the local genotype for you to help grow and propagate. Ohio Junegrass is one, which we grow, as well as Ohio's species of prickly pear cactus. The whole northern part of Ohio used to all be wetlands, which was about as important to as many species as the rainforests are. Oak Openings and Kitty Todd are probably the only places that are left of what used to be here for thousands of years.
We also do rearing and tagging of Monarch butterflies, which were nearing a threatened status in recent years. It's really rewarding to be able to take part in such things.

I had desired to go to this plant sale, but was unable to. Not only that prickly pear cactus but some milkweed for the monarchs are two things I would have been after. That's cool, I didn't know they brought back the Karner Blue here!

PR-Giants
05-17-2015, 08:51 AM
Check to see if there's an experienced member nearby that can help you out or go visit Don at Going Bananas. His Veinte Cohol grow 8 to 10 feet and he's helped many members navigate the basics.

There's an experienced member in Louisiana that grows them to 7 feet and maybe he can also give you some tips.

Keep an eye on the folks in South Georgia, if they receive their funding they're planning on growing the Patupi, Tigua, TMB2x 9128-3, Pioneira, & others.

BTW, that was an adorable SCRI support letter.



Mine has fruited at 5.5' - 6' under well-fertilized and irrigated conditions. The pictures on the TARS site seem to show a short plant. But, I have seen wide variations in other varieties at different locations.

SSP
05-17-2015, 09:48 PM
If you search around on the org you'll find some threads on this topic.

The short answer is that it is possible, but relies on luck or great ability to time when to cut to ensure you have an adequate number of leaves emerge before the bunch does to fill the fruit. Without enough leaf surface area to provide carbohydrates to fill the fruits, you'll end up with small fruit or fruit that never fill. I have unintentionally done some experiments like this my yard.

So you cut the stem, and put in water or something? And it will continue to finish growing the fruit? That would be unbelievable (literally). Seriously?

SSP
05-17-2015, 10:07 PM
Could you post a link to that study please?

SSP--what banana cultivar did you finally select, and what was your experience with that?

Thanks,
--Rick in CT

Hi Rick,
I am still deciding..
Patupi sounds good because of the quick flowering to fruiting cycle.
Dwarf Gros Michel still maybe possible if it is short enough in height (under 7 feet) to grow indoors in winter. Outdoors in summer.
Dwarf Cavendish would be last resort, of course this is sold all over for indoors. But you don't get anything you can't buy at the store.

I definitely want full size bananas (8" plus) of high quality, if possible.
Price and availability play a factor, both of those are up to anyone here I can get any of them from. Dwarf Cavendish can be bought for $4.99 a plant.
Quotes on others are over 10 times that.

SSP
05-17-2015, 10:16 PM
Veintecohol is dwarf and fills out quickly...the fruit are tasty.
I have a variety that came to me as Baloy. It fruits at 4-4.5 feet and makes a 20-25 lbs bunch of cavendish type bananas.

How does flavor compare to Cavendish? Gros Michel?
What is the time from sucker to flowering? Flowering to ripe fruit?
It might be something that would suit me!

venturabananas
05-17-2015, 10:18 PM
So you cut the stem, and put in water or something? And it will continue to finish growing the fruit? That would be unbelievable (literally). Seriously?

No, you cut the pseudostem to reduce the height of the plant, then the flower comes up the pseudostem and blooms on the plant, which is now shorter than it was before you chopped it.

SSP
05-17-2015, 10:21 PM
Veinte Cohol is not a dwarf...but they are tasty...eating some right now :08:

Here they grow to 9 feet.

I think South Georgia was the furthest north that someone was somewhat successful...they had a greenhouse...and averaged 1 oz. fruit.

He said 4.5 ft., its not?
So is it heat that is the reason it won't grow up north?

SSP
05-17-2015, 10:34 PM
I had desired to go to this plant sale, but was unable to. Not only that prickly pear cactus but some milkweed for the monarchs are two things I would have been after. That's cool, I didn't know they brought back the Karner Blue here!

Yep, they did at the Toledo Zoo, reintroduced at Kitty Todd and Oak Openings Preserve. Basically they were almost extinct.
You can get these natives any time at Naturally Native Nursery in Bowling Green (ask for Jan). She will hook you up :)
They only had some common milkweed at the sale. NNN has swamp and more.
Ohio Prickly Pear is rare, so 's hard to get. They did have some, we got one more plant. Ours from last year is growing extremely well, its able to be propagated after a year so. (Cuttings/seed).

SSP
05-17-2015, 10:38 PM
No, you cut the pseudostem to reduce the height of the plant, then the flower comes up the pseudostem and blooms on the plant, which is now shorter than it was before you chopped it.

So it is cutting it back?
At what stage would you do this?

Nicolas Naranja
05-19-2015, 03:02 PM
How does flavor compare to Cavendish? Gros Michel?
What is the time from sucker to flowering? Flowering to ripe fruit?
It might be something that would suit me!

Baloy taste exactly like Cavendish

Veinticohol is the plant that PR-Giants says that it gets to nine feet.


I am 6' tall
http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x455/NicolasNaranja/20140629_150147_zps9accbffe.jpg (http://s1182.photobucket.com/user/NicolasNaranja/media/20140629_150147_zps9accbffe.jpg.html)

SSP
05-19-2015, 05:50 PM
Baloy taste exactly like Cavendish

Veinticohol is the plant that PR-Giants says that it gets to nine feet.


I am 6' tall
http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x455/NicolasNaranja/20140629_150147_zps9accbffe.jpg (http://s1182.photobucket.com/user/NicolasNaranja/media/20140629_150147_zps9accbffe.jpg.html)

Ah, its Baloy you were talking about, I read wrong..
Looks like what you are standing by gets about 7-8 feet or so (leaves), but the fruit bears that low? Looks like the fruit is at 4 feet or so. If that's the case, maybe some of the top leaves could be pruned if needed?
But if it tastes like Cavendish, I could just grow Dwarf Cavendish.. unless there's some other factor that makes it better..

PR-Giants
05-20-2015, 08:51 AM
There are hundreds of Dwarf Cavendish. The Double flowers under 5' and produces 60 lb. bunches, and there's also the Parfitt accompanied with all the DPMs. In the tropics Cavendish take about 3.5 months after the bloom to harvest, which might take 4.5 to 5 months in cooler areas, so it's probably not good too far north.


http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=52589 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=52589)


Ah, its Baloy
But if it tastes like Cavendish, I could just grow Dwarf Cavendish.. unless there's some other factor that makes it better..


It looks like Baloy is going to top out pretty short (5'). The pre-flag leaf is coming out. Some kind of dwarf cavendish.

PR-Giants
05-20-2015, 08:55 AM
Going Bananas of Homestead Florida Banana & Banana Plant Descriptions (http://www.going-bananas.com/bananaplantdescriptions.htm)

VEINTE COHOL - A dessert variety originating in the Philippine area and having green pseudostem with some brown patches. The small plump fruit (3-4") are soft and sweet. Height about 8-10 ft. Current research shows it to be rapid to fruit, a real plus in the short summers. This is what you have been asking for, one that fruits fast before the warmth is gone for those short growing seasons!

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=53731 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=53731)



Veinticohol is the plant that PR-Giants says that it gets to nine feet.

sandy0225
05-20-2015, 10:13 AM
how about rajapuri? they stay small enough to handle well in a pot. idk about fruit. By the way we live in Indiana, and I haven't grown anything yet that fruits in less than four years the first time, then they seem to fruit every other year here.

Nicolas Naranja
05-21-2015, 03:39 PM
I hate to admit being wrong, but I think VC is actually closer to 8'.

http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x455/NicolasNaranja/20150521_114236_zpstumrf4wn.jpg (http://s1182.photobucket.com/user/NicolasNaranja/media/20150521_114236_zpstumrf4wn.jpg.html)

SSP
05-22-2015, 01:53 AM
Going Bananas of Homestead Florida Banana & Banana Plant Descriptions (http://www.going-bananas.com/bananaplantdescriptions.htm)

VEINTE COHOL - A dessert variety originating in the Philippine area and having green pseudostem with some brown patches. The small plump fruit (3-4") are soft and sweet. Height about 8-10 ft. Current research shows it to be rapid to fruit, a real plus in the short summers. This is what you have been asking for, one that fruits fast before the warmth is gone for those short growing seasons!


Well, other varieties mentioned still seem more suited. The Veinte Cohol is too tall for indoors at any time of the year, not "full size" fruit (8 inches or more), and probably not any faster fruiting (nor shows any better performance in "cooler" climates) than a Patupi. Correct? And Patupi is shorter in height? Full size fruit? Good quality fruit? So that would still make Patupi theoretically better, even if "unproven" in our climate. (Since neither is VC).
Dwarf Cavendishes are very proven to work indoors and in our climate. They are sold everywhere for indoors, so they must perform well in cooler conditions. "Double" -- Is that a Dwarf Cavendish cultivar? 5 feet, 60 pounds fruit? Full size bananas (8 inches)? That would be extremely ideal, if it (like other DC's) performs well indoors and "cooler" areas. The only drawback is again, it probably isn't any different from store bought fruit.
A word about northern USA climates, at least here (midwest), our summers are hot. 85-100 degrees F at times. Night temps in 70's.
Indoor temps average near 75-80 F.
If I settled with a DC, "Double" sounds possibly ideal to try, depending on fruit quality.
Patupi also still seems near the top of the list.
Of course I'll always want to try some form of Gros Michel, if there was any feasible way. If there was a shorter plant (shortest I heard of is called "Lowgate", but who knows), and one that has a faster cycle, and can tolerate slightly cooler temps. But does one exist? :drum:
From the info posted, these seem to be the top 3 to try here, but all of you have way more experience so maybe my points still aren't valid for these selections. Price is also a factor, otherwise I would try all of them :P
So let me know further opinions..

PR-Giants
05-22-2015, 07:19 AM
At least you eventually learnt. :waving:


I hate to admit being wrong, but I think VC is actually closer to 8'.

PR-Giants
05-22-2015, 07:21 AM
Dwarf Cavendish are very proven to work indoors and in our climate.

They are sold everywhere for indoors, so they must perform well in cooler conditions.



:lurk: Good Luck with that... keep us posted :waving:

The Incredible Indoor Banana Tree (https://www.bananagiant.com/)





Well, other varieties mentioned still seem more suited. The Veinte Cohol is too tall for indoors at any time of the year, not "full size" fruit (8 inches or more), and probably not any faster fruiting (nor shows any better performance in "cooler" climates) than a Patupi. Correct? And Patupi is shorter in height? Full size fruit? Good quality fruit? So that would still make Patupi theoretically better, even if "unproven" in our climate. (Since neither is VC).
Dwarf Cavendishes are very proven to work indoors and in our climate. They are sold everywhere for indoors, so they must perform well in cooler conditions. "Double" -- Is that a Dwarf Cavendish cultivar? 5 feet, 60 pounds fruit? Full size bananas (8 inches)? That would be extremely ideal, if it (like other DC's) performs well indoors and "cooler" areas. The only drawback is again, it probably isn't any different from store bought fruit.
A word about northern USA climates, at least here (midwest), our summers are hot. 85-100 degrees F at times. Night temps in 70's.
Indoor temps average near 75-80 F.
If I settled with a DC, "Double" sounds possibly ideal to try, depending on fruit quality.
Patupi also still seems near the top of the list.
Of course I'll always want to try some form of Gros Michel, if there was any feasible way. If there was a shorter plant (shortest I heard of is called "Lowgate", but who knows), and one that has a faster cycle, and can tolerate slightly cooler temps. But does one exist? :drum:
From the info posted, these seem to be the top 3 to try here, but all of you have way more experience so maybe my points still aren't valid for these selections. Price is also a factor, otherwise I would try all of them :P
So let me know further opinions..

venturabananas
05-22-2015, 10:15 AM
how about rajapuri? they stay small enough to handle well in a pot. idk about fruit. By the way we live in Indiana, and I haven't grown anything yet that fruits in less than four years the first time, then they seem to fruit every other year here.

I'd choose Rajapuri over Dwarf Cavendish, based on my tastes and how they both perform in my climate. It certainly is more cool tolerant. In my yard, the two varieties are pretty much the same height.

venturabananas
05-22-2015, 10:21 AM
Dwarf Cavendishes are very proven to work indoors and in our climate. They are sold everywhere for indoors, so they must perform well in cooler conditions.

If by perform well you mean produce fruit regularly, I wouldn't say they are proven to work well in cooler conditions. But if you can keep them warm in a greenhouse or indoors, they might be fine.

PR-Giants
05-23-2015, 06:36 AM
No, you cut the pseudostem to reduce the height of the plant, then the flower comes up the pseudostem and blooms on the plant, which is now shorter than it was before you chopped it.

So it is cutting it back?
At what stage would you do this?

venturabananas is the leading expert on chop chop & once he explains the procedure in a little more detail, you and everyone else will be growing indoor banana plantations in no time.

venturabananas
05-23-2015, 09:44 AM
venturabananas is the leading expert on chop chop & once he explains the procedure in a little more detail, you and everyone else will be growing indoor banana plantations in no time.

I am no expert. I have never fruited a banana indoors and never plan to attempt it. I have chopped down banana plants and then had them bloom soon after that. The bunches they have produced and been small and pathetic, though edible.

siege2050
05-24-2015, 05:49 AM
Not sure about the taste, nor am I sure it will bloom here yet, but Enano Gigante seems to overwinter very well for me indoors with low light (curtains closed) and almost no water and does not look terrible as long as spider mites are kept under control. Basically appeared to go semi dormant. Then later, I put it in my unheated greenhouse that got down to 37 or so degrees with no cold damage several times this spring. Does so well in fact for me with low water, light, cold, and semi dormancy, I am going to try storing it in my crawlspace this winter now that I have several pup backups. Supposed to be a cavendish type? Hard to find info about it online. For someone with a bright room, it should do very well overwintered indoors.

venturabananas
05-24-2015, 10:54 AM
venturabananas is the leading expert on chop chop & once he explains the procedure in a little more detail, you and everyone else will be growing indoor banana plantations in no time.

Here is one example of what happens when you chop the pseudostem shortly before flowering. This is a tall Namwah plant that normally flowers at about 15' of p-stem and produces 50-70 lb. bunches. This one flowered at 1' and had 3 small leaves produced after chopping but before blooming. It did produce edible bananas, but way fewer and smaller than normal. The bunch weighed 8 pounds.

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=57937&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=57937&ppuser=7760)
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=57938&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=57938&ppuser=7760)

Here's another p-stem on the same mat that I chopped. Doesn't look like these fingers will fill. I think it had only two tiny leaves prior to blooming.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=57940&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=57940&ppuser=7760)

So, can you chop the p-stem and get bananas? Yes, but unless you did it way before flowering, so there's lots of leaves that emerged after chopping to fuel the filling of the bunch, the fruit production will suffer. Probably a lot.

PR-Giants
05-24-2015, 12:52 PM
The Enano Gigante grows to the same height as the Williams and studies have shown the Williams to be more cold tolerant than other Cavs, plus it has less fruiting problems.

Not sure about the taste, nor am I sure it will bloom here yet, but Enano Gigante seems to overwinter very well for me indoors with low light (curtains closed) and almost no water and does not look terrible as long as spider mites are kept under control. Basically appeared to go semi dormant. Then later, I put it in my unheated greenhouse that got down to 37 or so degrees with no cold damage several times this spring. Does so well in fact for me with low water, light, cold, and semi dormancy, I am going to try storing it in my crawlspace this winter now that I have several pup backups. Supposed to be a cavendish type? Hard to find info about it online. For someone with a bright room, it should do very well overwintered indoors.

PR-Giants
05-24-2015, 01:18 PM
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=57191 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=57191)


Thanks for the photos vb.


Apparently there is an advantage to growing bananas up North. Here is another example of what happens when you chop the pseudostem before flowering. This is an AAB plant that normally flowers at about 10' of p-stem and produces 50-70 lb. bunches. This one flowered at 5' and had 6 large leaves plus the flag produced after chopping but before blooming. It did not produce edible bananas, and were fewer and smaller than normal.



http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=57190 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=57190)

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=51350 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=51350)

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=52673 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=52673)

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=51894 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=51894)

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=57199 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=57199)



Here is one example of what happens when you chop the pseudostem shortly before flowering. This is a tall Namwah plant that normally flowers at about 15' of p-stem and produces 50-70 lb. bunches. This one flowered at 1' and had 3 small leaves produced after chopping but before blooming. It did produce edible bananas, but way fewer and smaller than normal. The bunch weighed 8 pounds.

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=57937&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=57937&ppuser=7760)
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=57938&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=57938&ppuser=7760)

Here's another p-stem on the same mat that I chopped. Doesn't look like these fingers will fill. I think it had only two tiny leaves prior to blooming.
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=57940&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=57940&ppuser=7760)

So, can you chop the p-stem and get bananas? Yes, but unless you did it way before flowering, so there's lots of leaves that emerged after chopping to fuel the filling of the bunch, the fruit production will suffer. Probably a lot.

SSP
05-25-2015, 04:28 PM
:lurk: Good Luck with that... keep us posted :waving:


Lol! Yeah, not likely... but thanks for that anyway, its hilarious. :p
I can just see the producers of that infomercial making a run to the grocery store to buy those bananas for the kids to eat.
And then tied a bunch to stick on the tree. :D ;)
(Is it me or do those kids like those bananas a bit too much? Good Lord.)
I don't want luck, I want facts and information from the wisdom from those with experience like you, I need you guys to tell me your opinions on it all....

SSP
05-25-2015, 04:50 PM
I am no expert. I have never fruited a banana indoors and never plan to attempt it. I have chopped down banana plants and then had them bloom soon after that. The bunches they have produced and been small and pathetic, though edible.

It seems the ideal situation is to pick a variety and timing to have them fruit outdoors in summer, but some have gotten them to fruit indoors, as in this guy, in his cellar! (the tree isn't even upright!):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9ylwDZ33zU
Fruiting Bananas Indoors - in New England! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9ylwDZ33zU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9ylwDZ33zU)

SSP
05-25-2015, 05:17 PM
Some information I came across:

The optimum temperature for growth is 87 to 89 degrees F (31 or 32°C).
Temperature also influences the arrangement of the leaves.
On plants growing under cool conditions the leaves are more upright, but under warmer conditions they are more horizontal.
While the rate of plant development (for any given variety) is slower in the subtropics than in the tropics, bunch size can be larger and yields are comparable.

FRUIT GROWTH
A bunch emerging in April takes six months or more to mature, while one emerging in November takes only three months. So temperature has a big influence on the rate of fruit growth, hence the use of bunch covers, which are thought to warm the fruit, thereby increasing growth rate.

[This seems counterintuitive? How would November temps be warmer than April?]

In hot weather and in bright sunshine the two halves of the lamina (leaf blade) fold downwards (figure 2). This can reduce the temperature of the leaf by 7 or 8° C in the middle of the day. It also reduces, by more than half, the amount of water used by the leaf for cooling. Under still conditions, leaves torn by the wind are cooler than those that remain entire.
November bunch. During November, or in some years early December, a bunch emerges on which the fruit is uneven and often deformed. The fruit is tapered, being thin at the stalk end, and the flower end may have a conical, green protuberance. Fruit on the same hand is variable in length. Being short and thick when mature they are often called November dumps.
The quality of the fruit is good and has a reputation for being the best tasting of all bananas. However, sometimes very few fruit develop to marketable size.
November bunch has been observed in all subtropical countries where bananas are grown.

venturabananas
05-25-2015, 07:35 PM
That information is from Australia, hence the reversed seasons.

I think saying that guy got fruit in his cellar is probably not accurate. He got a bloom. I don't think they matured, if this is the video I saw a follow up on.

SSP
05-25-2015, 09:56 PM
That information is from Australia, hence the reversed seasons.

I think saying that guy got fruit in his cellar is probably not accurate. He got a bloom. I don't think they matured, if this is the video I saw a follow up on.

Ah you are right, its Australia. So would be reversed here.
I didn't see a follow-up, but didn't go through every one of his videos.
The thing is, we are fairly able to replicate the conditions that bananas grow and fruit in where they are grown. So what is not being done right?

If you want to see bananas growing in cool climates in the north, here is an extreme...
Here are bananas grown in... Iceland!
http://icelandreview.com/sites/default/files/styles/scale_720/public/banana_tree.jpg
One Hundred Banana Trees in Iceland | Iceland Review (http://icelandreview.com/news/2014/11/12/one-hundred-banana-trees-iceland)

37.667910
05-25-2015, 11:12 PM
Ah you are right, its Australia. So would be reversed here.
I didn't see a follow-up, but didn't go through every one of his videos.
The thing is, we are fairly able to replicate the conditions that bananas grow and fruit in where they are grown. So what is not being done right?

If you want to see bananas growing in cool climates in the north, here is an extreme...
Here are bananas grown in... Iceland!
http://icelandreview.com/sites/default/files/styles/scale_720/public/banana_tree.jpg
One Hundred Banana Trees in Iceland | Iceland Review (http://icelandreview.com/news/2014/11/12/one-hundred-banana-trees-iceland)

Grown in Iceland - correct. However they are growing in a green house.

SSP
05-25-2015, 11:21 PM
Grown in Iceland - correct. However they are growing in a green house.

Well yes, but look at the temperatures in the greenhouse. About the same as it is indoors in an average home. 77 degrees F or so.
The only difference is humidity, (which is self made), which could be replicated by simply tenting the plants with clear plastic. (So is humidity the magic factor?) If they can grow bananas like that as far north as Iceland, in temps that are equivalent to room temperature, then why can't anyone in Midwest or northern USA?

cincinnana
05-26-2015, 05:58 AM
Well yes, but look at the temperatures in the greenhouse. About the same as it is indoors in an average home. 77 degrees F or so.
The only difference is humidity, (which is self made), which could be replicated by simply tenting the plants with clear plastic. (So is humidity the magic factor?) If they can grow bananas like that as far north as Iceland, in temps that are equivalent to room temperature, then why can't anyone in Midwest or northern USA?

Actually we can, however one has to have the means to do it
and generally the casual backyard gardner does not want to put forth the resources for something they can get a the corner grocery.

I think that was covered that in my first few posts with the possible costs associated with fruiting the plant and the quality of fruit in the subsequent posts that other forum members added.

Your grow season is ticking away. Less than 170 days ......go to the big box store and pick up a cavendish and get started, the plants are less than ten bucks and get that first season under your belt to understand the plants needs. At ten bucks you have nothing to lose.:)
.https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7729/18178413045_223ba38ca2.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tGn7Sz)Plants for sale at Lowes (https://flic.kr/p/tGn7Sz) by Hostafarian (https://www.flickr.com/photos/110357684@N02/), on Flickr.
.Check this out.
Currently some of the the BEST info to grow your plant indoors in the winter will be found in the Cannibis forums.
Requirements and conditions are similiar.
And to do it right the costs are similiar.
And R.O.I is significantly higher.

This is one big reason in the north that these plants are not in everyones living room and are sold as an annual.
R.O.I> Return on investment - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Return_on_investment)