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View Full Version : How do you kill an extremely invasive tree?


Olafhenny
06-03-2014, 12:58 PM
I planted this thing, because I loved its picturesque shapes and the flaming gold and red
leaves in fall.

I cannot remember its name right now, but I cannot wait until it comes back to me. The
tree is now invading the neighbour’s yard and I have to do something quickly.

Here are a couple of pictures:

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/lungwitz/14315842346" title="DSC05197 - Copy by Golestan2, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5529/14315842346_454d0b2d73_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="DSC05197 - Copy"></a>


<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/lungwitz/14338982685" title="DSC05198 by Golestan2, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2901/14338982685_690f2b4a18_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="DSC05198"></a>


Ripping it out is probably not a good option, because it appears that the roots left in the
ground, will just re-grow. I believe the answer is in poisoning it. I am asking what the
best method is to get rid of it.

Thank you,
Olaf

Abnshrek
06-03-2014, 01:12 PM
Took me 3 years to kill a crape myrtle that kept coming back from under ground. I would not suggest round up, but the highest percentage glycophosphate, like from tractor supply in the farmers section.. :v)

kubali
06-03-2014, 01:30 PM
like abnshrek said >> Drexel 41% Glyphosate Concentrate best stuff for the money really works great, just make sure you peel the bark and cambium layer back around the base of the tree and paint the stuff around the peeled bark. I use it all the time better than round-up sometimes you might have to put on a second application, but usually one does the trick

barnetmill
06-03-2014, 02:18 PM
How would you apply it to bamboo that is coming from a neighbors yard?

Olafhenny
06-03-2014, 02:18 PM
Took me 3 years to kill a crape myrtle that kept coming back from under ground. I would not suggest round up, but the highest percentage glycophosphate, like from tractor supply in the farmers section.. :v)


like abnshrek said >> Drexel 41% Glyphosate Concentrate best stuff for the money really works great, just make sure you peel the bark and cambium layer back around the base of the tree and paint the stuff around the peeled bark. I use it all the time better than round-up sometimes you might have to put on a second application, but usually one does the trick

Don’t I have to spray it on the leaves for absorption? Peeling off the bark would be a
major operation, because there is a proliferation of small trees sprouting up.

I have some Round-up Super Concentrate, which is Glyphosate. Though it does not
say the percentage of concentration. I got rid of the horsetail infestation in my yard with
it, which presents a similar problem: Very little green surface compared to the extensive
system of rhizomes. Treating them on my side killed some in the neighbour’s yard as well.

Thank you both for your advice,
Olaf

kubali
06-03-2014, 02:21 PM
Don’t I have to spray it on the leaves for absorption? Peeling off the bark would be a
major operation, because there is a proliferation of small trees sprouting up.

I have some Round-up Super Concentrate, which is Glyphosate. Though it does not
say the percentage of concentration. I got rid of the horsetail infestation in my yard with
it, which presents a similar problem: Very little green surface compared to the extensive
system of rhizomes. Treating them on my side killed some in the neighbour’s yard as well.

Thank you both for your advice,
Olaf







spraying it on the tree or plant will kill it, just might take a few more applications that's all.and it is quicker to kill all the roots of what ever you put it on including the sprouts if you peel the bark off and spray it.

Olafhenny
06-03-2014, 02:27 PM
They say, if you want to annoy your neighbour, plant a bamboo close to the fence. :)

Wait until you have shoots with a fair amount of greens on them and then spray.

If you use the concentrate, it may well kill some or all of the neighbour's as well, as I did
with the horsetail.

The difference is of course, that my neighbour appreciated the killing of the horsetail. :ha:

Good luck,
Olaf
PS: If all else fails, a solid plastic divider about 10 inches deep will prevent the rhizomes of
most bamboo to travel across

Olafhenny
06-03-2014, 02:52 PM
I just donned my "grubbies" to go out and start scraping the bark off, when I had second
thoughts. Do not most of the nutrients in a tree travel through it just under the bark?

That might apply for poisons as well. Would it be better to spray the leaves now, wait
a few of days for absorption and then scrape off the bark, possibly for another spray
application there, then?

What do you think?

Thanks,
Olaf

harveyc
06-03-2014, 06:21 PM
I have dealt with something like this maybe 100 times with volunteer eucalytpus, privent, and even chestnuts on my farm. Glyphosate will work but a brush killer is more effective, IMO. I use a restricted use pesticide, Garlon, but I believe some of the Ortho products for killing brush, poison ivy, etc. have the same active ingredient. I don't take time to do any peeling of bark. I just cut down the tree or seedling with pruning sheers or chain saw and then paint full strength pesticide on the cambium layer. I have used glyphosate as well and results were usually pretty good but sometimes more than one attempt was needed.

It can affect adjoining plants of the roots are somehow connected together. For instance, I once had some ornamental flowering quince that became a spreading problem and I cut back all of the steps and painted the ends of the stems. I killed a chestnut tree that the quince had encroached upon. My pest control advisor told me of a similar problem in a winegrape vineyard. It may be easier to replace another killed plants than finding another way of removing you invasive tree.

Olafhenny
06-03-2014, 09:35 PM
Thank you Harvey,

I do have the Glysophate on hand and because it is to be applied to the leaves, I am going
to try that first. Meanwhile, while waiting for the result, I am trying to learn some more
about Garlon. I have looked it up on the net and found label instruction to its use 16 pages
long. It included everything from spraying out of fixed wing aircraft to cautioning, that a
boom to spray from should be no higher than 30m (100 feet)

See:
http://msdssearch.dow.com/PublishedLiteratureDAS/dh_0183/0901b80380183ab5.pdf?filepath=ca/pdfs/noreg/010-20840.pdf&fromPage=GetDoc

But what they describe is totally out of my league. It is all about treating large acreages. It does
not say anything about brushing it on, as you mention. Here is what they say on treating stumps:

QUOTE
Cut Stump Treatment
To control resprouting of cut stumps of woody species, mix 20 to 30 L of Garlon 4 Herbicide in enough oil
to make 100 L of spray mixture. Apply with a backpack or knapsack sprayer using a flat fan or a solid
cone nozzle. Low pump pressures of 70 to 210 kPa are recommended. Thoroughly wet the outer portion
of the cut surface adjacent to the cambium and the sides of the stumps, including the root collar area, but
not to the point of runoff. Apply at any time, including the winter months, except when snow or water
prevents spraying to the ground line. Care must be given to ensure treatment of all cut stems in a clump
UNQUOTE

It is clear to me, that brushing it on will be a whole lot safer than anything they suggest.
:ha:

Best,
Olaf

saltydad
06-04-2014, 12:14 PM
The above recommendations sound right; I've used Ortho Brush Killer with success. From the picture, the plant appears to be a sumac. Good luck, Olaf.

harveyc
06-04-2014, 02:17 PM
Olaf, yes, brushing on should be safer as long as you don't brush too vigorously that you would splatter onto yourself. A backpack sprayer would be more appropriate for covering larger areas such as if you were ridding your property of a large quantity of poison oak.

When treating a lot of brush/trees, I try to cut them in batches so that I can apply the product before the cambium layer dries and seals up.