View Full Version : shade tolerant fruiting plants?
venturabananas
02-29-2012, 01:05 AM
I'm looking for fruiting plants that are shade tolerant and not too tall. I have a spot in the back of my yard that is shaded during summer by the neighbor's trees, but is fairly sunny in winter, when the angle of the sun drops. I'm at a loss for something that will reliably produce fruit in this situation. Any suggestions?
barnetmill
02-29-2012, 01:14 AM
Very good question. I am also looking for some cultivars that will produce in the shade. I hope there is something will grow in the shade other than mushrooms.
Jack Daw
02-29-2012, 02:16 AM
Very good question. I am also looking for some cultivars that will produce in the shade. I hope there is something will grow in the shade other than mushrooms.
Still, I would like to start growing some mushrooms this season. But have to read a lot about it first.
Richard
02-29-2012, 02:53 AM
I'm looking for fruiting plants that are shade tolerant and not too tall. I have a spot in the back of my yard that is shaded during summer by the neighbor's trees, but is fairly sunny in winter, when the angle of the sun drops. I'm at a loss for something that will reliably produce fruit in this situation. Any suggestions?
Fruit production requires energy and ... well, that's a problem in shade.
Beets and/or Chards would do well there year-round.
Broccoli is likely to work there in the 2nd part of our "winter", and Kale would work there year-round.
Peas would work there provided the shade doesn't arrive too early.
sunfish
02-29-2012, 09:29 AM
Shade Tolerant Fruit Plants « Lawrence Fruit Tree Project – Lawrence, Kansas (http://lawrencefruittreeproject.wordpress.com/recommended-fruit-plants/shade-tolerant-fruit-plants/)
KYSU Pawpaw Planting Guide (http://www.pawpaw.kysu.edu/pawpaw/ppg.htm)
barnetmill
02-29-2012, 11:40 AM
Fruit production requires energy and ... well, that's a problem in shade.
Beets and/or Chards would do well there year-round.
Broccoli is likely to work there in the 2nd part of our "winter", and Kale would work there year-round.
Peas would work there provided the shade doesn't arrive too early.
Well at least somethings will grow and I do need to start growing vegetables. I notice what wild persimmons do is grow tall enough to get some sunlight by getting above the understory. But they grow a lot faster in full sunlight for sure.
venturabananas
02-29-2012, 12:01 PM
Fruit production requires energy and ... well, that's a problem in shade.
Beets and/or Chards would do well there year-round.
Broccoli is likely to work there in the 2nd part of our "winter", and Kale would work there year-round.
Peas would work there provided the shade doesn't arrive too early.
I guess, to be accurate, I'd have to say that there is bright indirect light during summer. The canopy over the spot keeps direct sun off the spot in summer. The 50-year-old jade plants in the spot seem happy and are flowering away. If only they made tasty fruit!
I was hoping for a permanent, perennial, shrub sized, fruiting plant. Tony's link had some good suggestions, most of which, unfortunately, won't be happy in coastal So. Cal. I guess I could try blackberries, but it seems like they need a lot of attention from the pruning to keep them in bounds perspective.
Richard
02-29-2012, 12:28 PM
I was hoping for a permanent, perennial, shrub sized, fruiting plant. Tony's link had some good suggestions, most of which, unfortunately, won't be happy in coastal So. Cal. I guess I could try blackberries, but it seems like they need a lot of attention from the pruning to keep them in bounds perspective.
I notice that blackberries and other Rubus will grow in shade, but the majority of fruit production is just outside the drip line (in the sun) of the over-canopy. You might have noticed this in forests.
Given the partial shade, Dragon Fruit would work, provided you are in 10a not 9b. There are others ... PM me as a reminder as I have to take off to move 10 pallets of soil.
Dalmatiansoap
02-29-2012, 02:58 PM
Pindo palm?
I'm looking for fruiting plants that are shade tolerant and not too tall. I have a spot in the back of my yard that is shaded during summer by the neighbor's trees, but is fairly sunny in winter, when the angle of the sun drops. I'm at a loss for something that will reliably produce fruit in this situation. Any suggestions? How about Loquats? Most of ours are in at least partial shade, as well as on the North side of the house.
When we were shipping them to the Gulf, to replace shrubs/bushes/hedges lost in Katrina, some of them were grown as a hedge, underneath taller "cousins" for a fast-growing windbreak, they did OK being shade-bound for the most part.
jeffreyp
02-29-2012, 08:35 PM
elderberry, pawpaw and even some bananas! I think if you consider plants that would normally grow in forest conditions that might give you some hints or ideas of what's possible.
My recommendation would be naranjilla.
The foliage is stunning and will become a talking point of your garden, i've grown them and have found them to enjoy warm, moist shaded conditions best so i think sun in winter, shade in summer would be fantastic. the fruits are small and i only got small crops but boy are they jam packed with sweet-tart goodness
Naranjilla - Solanum quitoense (http://www.daleysfruit.com.au/fruit%20pages/naranjilla.htm)
cheers
dany
PS i grew them in newcastle, Australia (coastal)(don't know how that stacks up against your climate)
Richard
03-01-2012, 01:05 AM
Naranjilla would definitely be interesting. I am growing one here in a somewhat sheltered position but otherwise full sun. It is a real looker. It flowers constantly and about 1/2 of them set. The fruits are a little larger than a golf ball. I have heard that in the tropics the fruit ripens in 60 days, but here it is 14 months.
Also consider fruiting members of the Rhododendron family, including southern blueberries and the native California Huckleberry.
If you want to get carried away you can try "5 flavor fruit" -- the magnolia vine. One Green World in Oregon carries a self-fertile hybrid "Eastern Prince". It needs the summer partial shade as it is native to northern China.
Surinam Cherry will work there but the fruit production will be impacted. Java Plum is also a consideration.
trebor
03-01-2012, 06:47 AM
Still, I would like to start growing some mushrooms this season. But have to read a lot about it first.
Shroomery - Magic Mushrooms (Shrooms) Demystified (http://www.shroomery.org/) that a pretty good place to read about mushrooms I'm lucky I got a friend who grows them . every once in a wile . I been toying with doing them myself and just got some mason jars 2 days ago . So I think I am going to start :) But I need to get my chickens all set up and then play with mushrooms.. Yes Mushroom grow in the shade and the best production is in cooler weather lows nights in high 60's is good .. There are some great dvds on how to grow and do everything relating to mushrooms Let's Grow Mushrooms! by Marc R Keith - Let's Grow Mushrooms (http://mushroomvideos.com/) if you get his you need nothing more .
gaberoo
03-01-2012, 05:10 PM
Can paw paws tolerate southeastern US climate?
gaberoo
03-01-2012, 05:12 PM
elderberry, pawpaw and even some bananas! I think if you consider plants that would normally grow in forest conditions that might give you some hints or ideas of what's possible.
Have you grown paw-paw in South Florida?
sunfish
03-01-2012, 05:17 PM
Can paw paws tolerate southeastern US climate?
Habitat of the Pawpaw Tree (http://www.blossomnursery.com/pawpaw_HABITAT.html)
HoaNui
03-01-2012, 05:58 PM
Broccoli is likely to work there in the 2nd part of our "winter", and Kale would work there year-round.
Peas would work there provided the shade doesn't arrive too early.
Nice to see kale mentioned there. For some reason it has lost its popularity here. Having said that I have a great tasting red Russian kale that I grow in the shade.
Can paw paws tolerate southeastern US climate?
YEP! There are even a few cultivars that are specific to the SE US.
Asimina triloba. (10) ASIM-23. Packet: $3.00
Seedlist AP-AZ (http://www.jlhudsonseeds.net/SeedlistAP-AZ.htm)
gaberoo
03-01-2012, 09:35 PM
Excellent! Thanks guys. I think I'll give paw paw a try here in Miami (Redlands to be exact).
Does anyone know if anyone is actually cultivating the fruit in South Florida? Redlands? Homestead? I'd like to buy some fresh paw paw to give it a try (I've heard it tastes really good).
caliboy1994
03-01-2012, 10:40 PM
Theobroma cacao - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theobroma_cacao)
If any of you guys want a challenge :ha::ha::ha::ha:
barnetmill
03-02-2012, 01:07 AM
Can paw paws tolerate southeastern US climate?
From the Just Fruits and Exotics website
SOUTHERN SEEDLING: We gather the seed for this variety from the North Florida area. It reliably fruits in Zones 8B and 9. Fruit varies in size from 3" to 5", with a pale yellow flesh. Excellent flavor. Ripens late August-September. Zones 7-9. $39.99 3 gal (3-5ft).
So it appears for sure that some pawpaws are native to the southeastern united states. Does not mean that a variety from new jersey will grow well in Louisiana. I do not know about miami since you did not have a good climate for temperate zone plants there. I do not consider it to be typical of the southeastern united states.
Richard
03-02-2012, 12:40 PM
I'm sure it would be fun to grow them from seed, but there are also improved cultivars available.
Check with these folks about viability of cultivars in your area: Peterson Pawpaws | Home (http://petersonpawpaws.com/)
gaberoo
03-02-2012, 03:33 PM
Here's what those folks have to say about paw-paws and Miami,FL:
Sorry. They are none that will survive in/near Miami. Much too hot and
not enough winter cold. They require cold. Why not grow the tropical
relatives, like sugar apple and atemoya?
Neal
Richard
03-02-2012, 03:47 PM
Another perennial plant to consider: Artichokes!
gaberoo
03-02-2012, 04:06 PM
I'm wondering if you couldn't put something like a vine in that shady spot (though I think the leaves would eventually need to be exposed to a certain amount of sunlight) and I am thinking of kiwi or hardy kiwi (actinidia arguta). Neither of these do well in South Florida I've been told (Pine Island Nursery here in the Redlands used to carry kiwi but they discontinued it since apparently it does not do too well in this climate).
A nursery in middle/north Florida carries hardy kiwi (so apparently it does well enough in that part of the state), but they told me that the plant needs a certain amount of cold during each winter for it to successfully flower and bear fruit (a shame really since I love the fruits and the plant is, as I remember, self-fertile). Maybe you get enough cold days in the Southern California area to grow this and have it fruit?
sunfish
03-02-2012, 05:32 PM
I'm wondering if you couldn't put something like a vine in that shady spot (though I think the leaves would eventually need to be exposed to a certain amount of sunlight) and I am thinking of kiwi or hardy kiwi (actinidia arguta). Neither of these do well in South Florida I've been told (Pine Island Nursery here in the Redlands used to carry kiwi but they discontinued it since apparently it does not do too well in this climate).
A nursery in middle/north Florida carries hardy kiwi (so apparently it does well enough in that part of the state), but they told me that the plant needs a certain amount of cold during each winter for it to successfully flower and bear fruit (a shame really since I love the fruits and the plant is, as I remember, self-fertile). Maybe you get enough cold days in the Southern California area to grow this and have it fruit?
I believe kiwi takes a male and female plant
gaberoo
03-02-2012, 06:06 PM
Kiwis, yes...but this particular variety, does not:Actinidia arguta ‘Issai’
“Mini Kiwi”
This vine produces the most adorable & tasty, 1”, smooth skinned fruits! There’s no need for a male vine around as it’s self-pollinating. This variety often bears the first year after planting, too. In its native habitat of Asia, Actinidia arguta can grow up trees to 100’ high. ‘Issai’ is much more polite, growing to around 12’ high. It prefers sun to part shade, average water & well-drained soil. The flowers are fragrant but inconspicuous. I think this vine is worth growing for its nice foliage alone. The fruits are an added bonus!
Kelly Kilpatrick
Horticulturalist
Richard
03-02-2012, 07:20 PM
Kiwis, yes...but this particular variety, does not:Actinidia arguta ‘Issai’
“Mini Kiwi”
This vine produces the most adorable & tasty, 1”, smooth skinned fruits! There’s no need for a male vine around as it’s self-pollinating. This variety often bears the first year after planting, too. In its native habitat of Asia, Actinidia arguta can grow up trees to 100’ high. ‘Issai’ is much more polite, growing to around 12’ high. It prefers sun to part shade, average water & well-drained soil. The flowers are fragrant but inconspicuous. I think this vine is worth growing for its nice foliage alone. The fruits are an added bonus!
Kelly Kilpatrick
Horticulturalist
There are a number of articles by Roger Meyer regarding the taste and culture of Kiwis. In all the tastings I've done of Kiwis at CRFG events the Issai was not anyone's favorite. Grown here in San Diego, the vine will easily cover 30 feet of chain link fence in a few years. If you are going to devote that much space, there are better tasting cultivars of Kiwis to grow.
venturabananas
03-02-2012, 07:31 PM
I'm wondering if you couldn't put something like a vine in that shady spot (though I think the leaves would eventually need to be exposed to a certain amount of sunlight) and I am thinking of kiwi or hardy kiwi (actinidia arguta)... Maybe you get enough cold days in the Southern California area to grow this and have it fruit?
Yes, they do fine here. Not sure about how much sun they need. My next door neighbor has some that cover the side of his house (and roof) facing my kitchen window. It is a very attractive, deciduous vine. Unfortunately, it gets way too big for the small spot I have in mind.
venturabananas
03-02-2012, 07:34 PM
Another perennial plant to consider: Artichokes!
Yep, I'd thought of them, too. I might try them in a different spot where their greenish-blue foliage fits the theme better, out by the curb where we have a bunch of lavender. Nice looking plants for sure. They do well in the shade in my neighborhood.
venturabananas
03-02-2012, 07:40 PM
Also consider fruiting members of the Rhododendron family, including southern blueberries and the native California Huckleberry.
I like this idea. I think the early varieties of southern blueberries would produce fruit before the spot becomes completely shady. And from what I read, it sounds like the "Evergreen Huckleberry", Vaccinium ovatum, would do well with sun or shade, and it is a nice-looking everygreen shrub with edible fruit. Have any of you eaten it? Is it worth growing for food? I know the Native Americans traditionally ate it, but they didn't have a vast array of improved cultivars of other tasty fruit to choose from!
Richard
03-02-2012, 08:01 PM
The southern blueberries, Calif. huckleberries, and artichokes would appreciate partial shade during your summers.
The blueberries -- regardless of hybrid will fruit early enough due to your relatively temperate winter. For flavor, SharpsBlue is the standard and it is self-fertile. O'Neill's is another good pick. Most of the varieties that fruit earlier or later were bred for that feature.
The Calif. evergreen huckleberries have a moderate growth rate if fed regularly and otherwise are slow growers. What a great plant. In the early years the fruits are small but with maturity the fruit size is a bit larger than a pea but smaller than the larger blueberry fruits. I keep saying "Calif. huckleberries" because the name "huckleberry" is used worldwide for a variety of Vaccinium fruits including bilberries and cranberries. Typical native habitat for the Calif. huckleberry is on the east or west drip line of a conifer.
barnetmill
03-02-2012, 10:33 PM
The southern blueberries, Calif. huckleberries, and artichokes would appreciate partial shade during your summers.
The blueberries -- regardless of hybrid will fruit early enough due to your relatively temperate winter. For flavor, SharpsBlue is the standard and it is self-fertile. O'Neill's is another good pick. Most of the varieties that fruit earlier or later were bred for that feature.
The Calif. evergreen huckleberries have a moderate growth rate if fed regularly and otherwise are slow growers. What a great plant. In the early years the fruits are small but with maturity the fruit size is a bit larger than a pea but smaller than the larger blueberry fruits. I keep saying "Calif. huckleberries" because the name "huckleberry" is used worldwide for a variety of Vaccinium fruits including bilberries and cranberries. Typical native habitat for the Calif. huckleberry is on the east or west drip line of a conifer.
I have a "native type" of blue berry that is growing wild on my place and the berries are the size of small peas. The problem is that the birds selectively eat these faster than a second wild type that is a bit larger. If I have a choice I go for the larger berries and if I can for other species go for red or green versus very dark or even white if it is available. The birds seem to favor attacking darker fruit. Berry loss from hungry animals and birds is a real problem.
Richard
03-02-2012, 10:36 PM
I have a "native type" of blue berry that is growing wild on my place and the berries are the size of small peas. The problem is that the birds selectively eat these faster than a second wild type that is a bit larger. If I have a choice I go for the larger berries and if I can for other species go for red or green versus very dark or even white if it is available. The birds seem to favor attacking darker fruit. Berry loss from hungry animals and birds is a real problem.
Sounds like you need an "inverse" aviarium.
bananimal
03-03-2012, 12:42 AM
Still, I would like to start growing some mushrooms this season. But have to read a lot about it first.
I once found mention about starting Steinpilz (Porcino) at home. You take a 3 x 6 piece of thick corrugated card board and coat one side with a sticky substance. Then the shroom spores are applied. Fold the cardboard in half and hang it from a wire in the shade - coated surface facing inwards.
Anybody ever done this?
bananimal
03-03-2012, 12:49 AM
Another perennial plant to consider: Artichokes!
I am about to plant Imperial Star artichokes between the bananas. Should get enough shade in the hottest part of summer when the naners have full leaf out. Decided to keep them potted last year and they have good size now. Can't wait - the garlic and olive oil are waiting.
Richard
03-03-2012, 03:22 AM
I am about to plant Imperial Star artichokes between the bananas. Should get enough shade in the hottest part of summer when the naners have full leaf out. Decided to keep them potted last year and they have good size now. Can't wait - the garlic and olive oil are waiting.
I prefer the flavor of Imperial Star over Green Globe, etc.
bananimal
03-03-2012, 07:34 AM
I prefer the flavor of Imperial Star over Green Globe, etc.
Good to know since the new heat tolerant varieties like IS are the only ones I can grow in S Fla.
Nevertheless, I will never forget those purple chokes I had at ristorante Tre Scalini in Piazza Navona, Rome. They were the best ever. So was the abbacio. Don't get me started!
barnetmill
03-03-2012, 10:37 AM
How about flatwood plums
...also called hog plum, is a small understory tree found in river, swamps, hardwood hammocks, and pine flatwoods. It ranges from southern North Carolina to central Florida and west to central Texas, northward in the Mississippi Valley to southern Arkansas. Flatwoods plum (http://www.sfrc.ufl.edu/4h/Flatwoods_plum/flatplum.htm)
The fruits are described as being purple fruits are tart and rich in pectin. They are used to make jellies, preserves, tart pies, or jams.
Since it is an understory tree it might tolerate some shade. I am thinking of getting one next fall. They can grow 20 ft high. I do not know if it needs a pollinator or not. Just Fruits and Exotics sells them. Too busy this year to clear land for planting. I turned down a free gift of east texas blackberry vines yesterday because of time issues and I already have some that I planted last year that doing ok from the same friend.
I have a wild chickasaw plum type that I purchased a few years ago for $5 from the locale county green up Santa Rosa, FL and it has really grown and the only problem is some sort of maggot that is getting in the fruit. If I picked up the fruit lying on the ground that problem would likely go away. I have planted a few other chickasaws near by for pollination. They are in flower now.
Richard
03-03-2012, 02:55 PM
Good to know since the new heat tolerant varieties like IS are the only ones I can grow in S Fla.
Nevertheless, I will never forget those purple chokes I had at ristorante Tre Scalini in Piazza Navona, Rome. They were the best ever. So was the abbacio. Don't get me started!
The purple chokes are very good too. I'm currently stocking them!
venturabananas
03-11-2012, 07:29 PM
The Calif. evergreen huckleberries have a moderate growth rate if fed regularly and otherwise are slow growers. What a great plant. In the early years the fruits are small but with maturity the fruit size is a bit larger than a pea but smaller than the larger blueberry fruits. I keep saying "Calif. huckleberries" because the name "huckleberry" is used worldwide for a variety of Vaccinium fruits including bilberries and cranberries. Typical native habitat for the Calif. huckleberry is on the east or west drip line of a conifer.
Richard, I bought a couple of the Evergreen Huckleberry from the vendor you recommended. They arrived promptly in great condition. One Green World recommends planting them in un-amended soil. But they also say they like well draining, acid soil -- which would require some amending in my yard. What would you recommend? Sounds like they need the same kind of soil as their congener, blueberries.
Richard
03-14-2012, 05:12 PM
Richard, I bought a couple of the Evergreen Huckleberry from the vendor you recommended. They arrived promptly in great condition. One Green World recommends planting them in un-amended soil. But they also say they like well draining, acid soil -- which would require some amending in my yard. What would you recommend? Sounds like they need the same kind of soil as their congener, blueberries.
I'd say their advice is for customers in their immediate area. :ha:
In the wild they thrive under the east or west drip line of conifers in DG soil. I plant mine in the same soil mix I give to other rhododendrons -- which as you mentioned includes Blueberries. For clay soil I would mix 2 parts native soil, 2 parts compost, and 1 part coarse sand (either horticultural or washed coarse paver sand), plus a dash of reasonably fresh worm castings. If the planting hole doesn't drain, then be sure to provide a French Drain so that excess rain water etc. has a chance to seep away somewhere else. Don't bother with mycorrhizae unless you have a source for the rare type compatible with rhododendrons.
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