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View Full Version : Ae Ae - mycorrhizae effects dramatic


bananimal
08-12-2010, 10:33 AM
Did soil inoculation with mycorrhizae funghi on both Ae Ae 3 weeks ago. They weren't looking so good.

Ae Ae leaf without Mycorrhizae
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=35654&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=35654&ppuser=820)

Ae Ae leaf with Mycorrhizae
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=35653&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=35653&ppuser=820)

Average new leaf size is almost double previous leaves before treatment.

Wow!!!

Dan

Simply Bananas
08-12-2010, 10:43 AM
Hey tell me more(small, brown on edges, etc). My leaves are looking crappy too.

Thanks

SoBe Musa
08-12-2010, 10:49 AM
Wow, Dan I want to know too!!

tastyratz
08-12-2010, 02:35 PM
The magic of compost tea... ESPECIALLY in container plants or recently disturbed dirt! I think its the secret to a container plant rivaling one grown in the ground. Did you use a product off the shelf or did you make it yourself cheap?

Bananaman88
08-12-2010, 02:39 PM
Mycorrhiza fungi basically attach themselves to the root hairs of plants in a symbiotic relationship making the root systems much more capable of taking in moisture and nutrients. I've been to seminars and seen photos that show the root systems sometimes doubled or tripled in size thanks the the mycorrhizae that had attached themselves to the root systems of the plants in question. We used to use a product called Tree Saver that had mycorrhizae in it to help trees get over transplant shock quicker.

Richard
08-12-2010, 03:09 PM
For gardeners who do not fertilize, the effects of mycorrhizae will always be dramatic because the plants are now better equipped to uptake nutrients naturally present in the soil. Keep in mind that within about 7 years plants will deplete any nutrients naturally present in the soil. For gardeners who already fertilze to provide nutrition at a more even rate, the effects of mycorrhizae will be less dramatic. The most cost effective means of innoculating soil with mycorrhizae is to mix in worm castings at the time of planting, then make sure the surface of the ground has a 3 to 4 inch layer of 1-inch diameter mulch to keep the surface from drying out too much. Applied this way, mycorrhizae need only be added once. The population will then remain with the plants unless the soil is deeply treated with an extreme fungicide. Note also that many soils already contain mycorrhizae: the gardener simply needs to put mulch on the surface so that the population can flourish.

bananimal
08-12-2010, 05:14 PM
tastyratz --- Mycorrhizae funghi and compost tea are two different things. Ironically, like Brent and Richard just said, the myco effect will be enhanced with the addition of vermicompost (worm poop).

The mulch connection did not ring a bell until I remembered that organic guys like Nananaman mulch, and heavily. Thanks Richard. Next stop - the Bushel Stop - mulch by the yard, cubic that is.

Dan

1aday
08-12-2010, 10:16 PM
How did you add the mycorrhizae? I know you can buy it at Lowes or wherever in powder form.
Details!! We want details! LOL

tastyratz
08-12-2010, 10:52 PM
you can get mycorr. in compost tea.
Just get some compost, stick a handful of oatmeal in it (I also stick a handful of sawdust by the wood saw) mix it up and drench it in non tap water. Stick it in a warm dark place for 4 or 5 days and you will have loads of fungus. Stick that in the tea and use 400 micron bags - you should be able to get it right in the tea. I use that to innoculate all soil with new plants and maybe once a month for everything. Works great

bananimal
08-12-2010, 11:28 PM
The Mycorrhizae funghi I'm using is made by Organic Laboratories, right down the road in Stuart, Fla. It's called MycoStim and includes Kelp extracts and Humic Acid. To do a soil drench on established plants mix 1 cup MycoStim with 1 gal water. Punch holes into the root zone and pour solution in.

Also real good with seeds. Mix a little water with Myco to create a slurry. Add seeds to thoroughly coat and plant. One of my pole bean vines jumped the fence trellis and traveled up a power pole anchor cable all the way to the transformer.

I came up with a fast easy way to punch holes in soil by removing the 2 tine discs from a hand held Garden Weasel, and mounting them on a threaded rod on the end of a shovel replacement handle. One on each side. If you don't break up the crust that forms on the soil surface the solution will run off. Transfer the gallon jug solution to a half gal watering can with a narrow spout - no run off.

1aday
08-13-2010, 09:40 AM
Thanks!!!!

Greenie
08-13-2010, 03:57 PM
The mulch connection did not ring a bell until I remembered that organic guys like Nananaman mulch, and heavily. Thanks Richard. Next stop - the Bushel Stop - mulch by the yard, cubic that is.

Dan
Nice Dan,I think you are starting to see the light.:D

mushtaq86
08-14-2010, 06:00 AM
Has anyone noticed while the new leaf looks a lot healthy,there is also less white on it.

djmb74
08-14-2010, 03:02 PM
I use it on all my plants, but honestly with an AE AE the brown is sunburn on the whites of the leaves has nothing to do with nutrition. If kept in full sun after a while the new leaf is going to have some browning as well. It comes with the territory with Ae Ae's. Maybe someone should invent some Sunscreen spray for them... lol

But the mycorrhizae certainly does do a great job of helping your banana plants...

mushtaq86
08-15-2010, 05:15 AM
I never get any sunburn on any of my ae ae,the reason could be i keep it in a green house:ha: which has double bubble wrap covering the glass while it lets in bright light,there is no direct sun light.

Justin
08-16-2010, 03:25 PM
I use it on all my plants, but honestly with an AE AE the brown is sunburn on the whites of the leaves has nothing to do with nutrition. If kept in full sun after a while the new leaf is going to have some browning as well. It comes with the territory with Ae Ae's. Maybe someone should invent some Sunscreen spray for them... lol

But the mycorrhizae certainly does do a great job of helping your banana plants...


Do you just use the Pro Mix with mycorrhizae or do you use the Pro Mix with Bio-Fungicide and add the mycorrhizae?

bananimal
11-02-2010, 07:51 AM
Update - innoculated Ae Ae kickin butt. No fruit this year but good to go for next.

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=38065&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=38065&ppuser=820)

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=38064&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=38064&ppuser=820)

TRAY
07-15-2011, 06:15 AM
The Mycorrhizae funghi I'm using is made by Organic Laboratories, right down the road in Stuart, Fla. It's called MycoStim and includes Kelp extracts and Humic Acid. To do a soil drench on established plants mix 1 cup MycoStim with 1 gal water. Punch holes into the root zone and pour solution in.

Also real good with seeds. Mix a little water with Myco to create a slurry. Add seeds to thoroughly coat and plant. One of my pole bean vines jumped the fence trellis and traveled up a power pole anchor cable all the way to the transformer.

I came up with a fast easy way to punch holes in soil by removing the 2 tine discs from a hand held Garden Weasel, and mounting them on a threaded rod on the end of a shovel replacement handle. One on each side. If you don't break up the crust that forms on the soil surface the solution will run off. Transfer the gallon jug solution to a half gal watering can with a narrow spout - no run off.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
AWESOME! Found the stuff, and think i'm gonna give it a shot!-- Mycostim, Mycorrhiza, Organic Labs Products, Organic Fungus for plants (http://www.lawnrite.com/bene_fungi.html)

1aday
07-15-2011, 06:25 AM
Great! What is the blue thing on the stake?

oakshadows
07-15-2011, 09:02 AM
Will try this also, and use it on all of the plants.

bananimal
07-15-2011, 09:25 AM
It's a kneeling pad for intensive hand weeding.

harveyc
07-19-2011, 12:42 AM
How are your Ae Ae doing this year, Dan? Are differences still significant?

bananimal
07-20-2011, 11:52 AM
Harvey ------- The 2 Ae Ae are ok -- still no size yet. They took cold damage hits in Dec and Jan. The Jan cold was a real frost, even though short lived. Both were double wrapped with frost cloth. All leaves were toast --- but pstems, pup and corms survived. I live 10 miles inland from the Atlantic and always see greater swings of temp than, say, Brian. He is further south and a block or so from the beach.

Gonna try something else this year. Four to five inches of large size bark chip mulch. And worms, castings and fish emulshn. And reinoculate with Myco. Then we’ll see!

Ae #1 -- about the same as last year this time
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=44435&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=44435&ppuser=820)

Ae #2 -- a bit bigger than 7/10
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=44434&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=44434&ppuser=820)

oakshadows
07-25-2011, 02:33 PM
you can get mycorr. in compost tea.
Just get some compost, stick a handful of oatmeal in it (I also stick a handful of sawdust by the wood saw) mix it up and drench it in non tap water. Stick it in a warm dark place for 4 or 5 days and you will have loads of fungus. written by "tastyratz" awhile back

Question....
There is mucho compost here, both dry and in the pile. It is cow manure and hay with some worms thrown in. Does it matter if the compost is wet or dried stuff?
Thanks