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View Full Version : Got my blueberry bushes...


djmb74
05-30-2010, 10:14 AM
Picked up my blueberry bushes on Friday. 26 plants in all and 3 Nanchez blackberry plants as well.

Varieties I ended up getting were mostly Emerald and Jewel as well as 5 Windsor bushes.

almost 5lbs of blueberries! :woohoonaner:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/bosskids/Garden%202010/IMG_1086.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/bosskids/Garden%202010/IMG_1088.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/bosskids/Garden%202010/IMG_1087.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/bosskids/Garden%202010/IMG_1094.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/bosskids/Garden%202010/IMG_1092.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/bosskids/Garden%202010/IMG_1089.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/bosskids/Garden%202010/IMG_1090.jpg

MediaHound
05-30-2010, 05:57 PM
Wow, that's awesome... congrats!
Got blueberry recipes? :)

AmberNichole
05-30-2010, 07:33 PM
holy crap thats a lot of blueberries! I have 2 bushes, but they dont produce anywhere near that amount! they are a souther verity.....Sharp and another one i think.

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=31986&size=1

CoryS
05-30-2010, 10:32 PM
Congratulations! They look incredible [and the blackberries don't look bad, either]. We have a small, potted blueberry bush but nothing like that. Thanks much for sharing the photos. Happy eating!

Abnshrek
05-30-2010, 10:36 PM
Wow, that's Berrilicious Martin :^)

sbl
05-31-2010, 07:51 AM
Mine are just beginning to ripen--my main crop will come in between mid June and mid July. I expect to get around 80 pounds off my bushes this yr.

I have 17 known varieties plus several unknown. I have been wanting to get an Emerald and Jewel.

As for recipes, we eat them fresh every night once they come in--I put a spoonful of blueberry pie filling on top of about a 1/2 cup of fresh berries, a couple spoons of Grape Nuts, whipped cream and then top that with shaved dark chocolate.

I freeze a bunch and then make blueberry wine in winter when it is cooler.

MediaHound
05-31-2010, 07:54 AM
Just a reminder, we have a section for recipes (other than banana recipes):

Other Recipes - Bananas.org (http://www.bananas.org/f259/)
This forum is for recipes for foods we make from our gardens, from plants aside from bananas. Preserves, pies, quiches, cakes, dried fruits, wines, beers, and other recipes from foods made from bounty from your garden belong in this forum. Share your most prized secret recipes for others to enjoy!

:woohoonaner:

djmb74
05-31-2010, 08:10 AM
Wow that's awesome, 80lbs. I hope to get enough bushes to get that much one day. How many plants do you have in total?

Mine are just beginning to ripen--my main crop will come in between mid June and mid July. I expect to get around 80 pounds off my bushes this yr.

I have 17 known varieties plus several unknown. I have been wanting to get an Emerald and Jewel.

As for recipes, we eat them fresh every night once they come in--I put a spoonful of blueberry pie filling on top of about a 1/2 cup of fresh berries, a couple spoons of Grape Nuts, whipped cream and then top that with shaved dark chocolate.

I freeze a bunch and then make blueberry wine in winter when it is cooler.

sbl
06-03-2010, 11:14 AM
There are about 35 bushes at my place over in AL, but they are various sizes. Most of the 17 named varieties are only about 3 to 4 ft tall, although a couple are over 6 ft. The majority of my bigger bushes are an unknown variety I got from my wife's dad--most of them are at least 6 ft an some over 8 ft and the limbs are starting to bend over--there are green berry clusters that will fill your hand--I can't wait until they get ripe!. I picked about a cup full off of my Becky Blue and a few berries off Premier and Climax just yesterday.

stevelau1911
08-26-2010, 01:02 AM
How long does it usually take for blueberries to get to start making fruits? I just planted a lot of these guys. What kind of fertilizers will help them speed up their growth? I'm hoping for these guys to get big enough to make fruit the year after next year. I'll probably water them with willow tea just to get them well rooted for the rest of this year.

Here's all of them.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4928763796_97b9ae12aa_b.jpg

Richard
08-26-2010, 09:20 AM
How long does it usually take for blueberries to get to start making fruits? I just planted a lot of these guys. What kind of fertilizers will help them speed up their growth? I'm hoping for these guys to get big enough to make fruit the year after next year. I'll probably water them with willow tea just to get them well rooted for the rest of this year.

Get a pH probe and check the soil pH regularly for awhile. Looking at your plants, it appears you have the southern type(s) so maintain a soil pH of about 5.8 to 6.0. There are many products for acid-loving plants that will be suitable. What you need to avoid are fertilizers and soil amendments that contain significant amounts of nitrogen in the nitrate form.

For your current needs, you can find a 30-10-10 formula labeled "Soil Acidifier" from several manufacturers. Then switch to an Azalea bloom formula such as 14-18-14 for berry production.

The Hollyberry Lady
08-26-2010, 09:22 AM
Oh how I love blueberries! :goteam: Great shots, guys!


Getting some shrubs next year that are everbearing and will produce all Summer and Fall long!!!


: o

cherokee_greg
08-26-2010, 10:18 AM
very nice.

Richard
08-26-2010, 10:52 AM
Getting some shrubs next year that are everbearing and will produce all Summer and Fall long!!!

I'm jealous. Only the southern highbush cultivars will produce in warmer winter areas (USDA zones 8b - 10) and so we are limited to spring through early summer harvests.

stevelau1911
08-26-2010, 12:11 PM
These are supposed to be a mixture of northern and southern highbush varieties and I plan on applying a layer of pine mulch once they get a bit taller. As far as winter protection, I don't think that should be an issue for the ones that are only hardy to zone 7 since this area is fairly well protected from the wind and snow tends to drift there and my larger blueberry bushes didn't get fazed by last winter at all.

Richard
08-26-2010, 03:14 PM
These are supposed to be a mixture of northern and southern highbush varieties and I plan on applying a layer of pine mulch once they get a bit taller. As far as winter protection, I don't think that should be an issue for the ones that are only hardy to zone 7 since this area is fairly well protected from the wind and snow tends to drift there and my larger blueberry bushes didn't get fazed by last winter at all.

The northern blueberry species and european species require a pH below 5.5, preferably around 5.2. The southern highbush and rabbit-eye hybrids will not tolerate this, they function well at a pH of about 5.8 to 6.0. Both of them will rapidly decline in the presence of too much nitrogen in the Nitrate form.

stevelau1911
08-26-2010, 05:33 PM
Since that picture, I have added about 1 inch of pine bark pellets all around and a pretty strong dosage of sulfur through the entire barriered area to hopefully drop the PH down to those levels since PH here is slightly alkaline.

I plan on waiting a few days for them to get comfortable in their new home and then start adding some organic fertilizers such as milorganite or any other organic pelleted fertilizers which should not be harmful. I'll probably get some blueberry specific fertilizers once they get a little bigger.

sandy0225
08-26-2010, 05:58 PM
My friend in the master gardeners grows blueberries here and I have some potted ones for sale. I'm just growing them like he told me to. He told me the easy way to grow them here. I don't change the ph of the soil at all, I just add ironite whenever the new growth lightens up a little, indicating that they need iron.Mulch under them real well with mulch after you plant them and grow them fairly moist.
I've even picked a few berries off my potted plants I just got in this spring. We have Blueray, bluecrop and tophat dwarf. Northern types.

Richard
08-26-2010, 06:31 PM
Note that before Ironite was bought out a decade ago, the formula was 12% Iron. Now the package sold out here has a scant 1.5%. What does yours say?

NANAMAN
08-26-2010, 08:12 PM
If the plants are started with mycorrhiza, and fertilized organically, they will be able to use the available iron much more efficiently.

sandy0225
08-26-2010, 08:30 PM
I'll look and see how much iron is in it tomorrow. It's way out in the garage. I have them potted in promix brk with mycorrhize. I've been using regular greenhouse 20-20-20 on them about every third or fourth watering, used 2 T ironite when planting and about 2T per 3 gal pot about 2 weeks ago.

Hey I went and looked it's 4.5% iron. But it sure greens them up.

Richard
08-26-2010, 11:34 PM
If the plants are started with mycorrhiza, and fertilized organically, they will be able to use the available iron much more efficiently.

I agree about the mycorrhizae, but organic has little to do with it. You could use an animal source (e.g., fish emulsion), a vegetative source (e.g., cottonseed meal), or mineral source (e.g., urea + soluble potash) and obtain equally good results. pH and dosage are key to maximizing production.

NANAMAN
08-27-2010, 01:06 PM
I agree about the mycorrhizae, but organic has little to do with it. You could use an animal source (e.g., fish emulsion), a vegetative source (e.g., cottonseed meal), or mineral source (e.g., urea + soluble potash) and obtain equally good results. pH and dosage are key to maximizing production.

Richard, I think it's obvious that the animal, vegetative, and mineral sources you listed are all commonly referred to as organic fertilizers. And those would be the types I am also speaking of.

The reason I mentioned organic fertilizers, is that standard chemical fertilizers (10-10-10, 20-20-20, acid blends, etc...) will reduce and at some point abolish, mycorrhiza and beneficial micro-organism populations in the soil. The effect is similar to pouring diluted bleach on mold, eventually all of it dies. Mycorrhiza producers recommend and some products are sold with the mycorrhiza bound to a Bio-sol type fertilizer, (organic), for this reason.

The point I'm making is that the fertilizer source (chemical / organic) has considerably more than " little to do with it " .

the flying dutchman
08-27-2010, 02:39 PM
The northern blueberry species and european species require a pH below 5.5, preferably around 5.2. The southern highbush and rabbit-eye hybrids will not tolerate this, they function well at a pH of about 5.8 to 6.0. Both of them will rapidly decline in the presence of too much nitrogen in the Nitrate form.

Talking about European Species. Close to my home you will find Vaccinum Myrtillus everywhere. It grows at the edge of forests and inside the forest on half open spaces. The soil is pure sandground. It forms large dense clusters of plants not higher than a foot. They taste delicious.

Ron...

Richard
08-27-2010, 04:32 PM
Richard, I think it's obvious that the animal, vegetative, and mineral sources you listed are all commonly referred to as organic fertilizers. And those would be the types I am also speaking of.

The reason I mentioned organic fertilizers, is that standard chemical fertilizers (10-10-10, 20-20-20, acid blends, etc...) will reduce and at some point abolish, mycorrhiza and beneficial micro-organism populations in the soil. The effect is similar to pouring diluted bleach on mold, eventually all of it dies. Mycorrhiza producers recommend and some products are sold with the mycorrhiza bound to a Bio-sol type fertilizer, (organic), for this reason.

The point I'm making is that the fertilizer source (chemical / organic) has considerably more than " little to do with it " .

Actually the mineral sources are inorganic, the chemical fertilizers you speak of are made from them, and when an appropriate chemical fertilizer is applied properly then the mycorrhizae and other beneficial biology in the soil flourish.

Of course, if you take 15-30-15 and throw it at your plants in earnest, the phosphate will kill the soil biology in short order. In my view, the latter is an inappropriate fertilizer under many conditions and the delivery is also an irresponsible dosage. Using a chemical fertilizer that contains significant chlorine has the same results.

stevelau1911
08-27-2010, 08:43 PM
I'm not too worried about fertilizer right now since this area has very fertile soil to begin with and they are small plants which really need to just get their roots established in this ground. They have been inoculated with myccorhizal fungi from the time they were tiny seedlings so they should have an easier time adjusting to the ground. I'll avoid chemical fertilizers altogether since I want to make sure the soil stays healthy.

So far, Many of these seedlings have turned reddish likely due to the increase in sunlight and my goal for the rest of this season is to get each of these plants to grow a couple shoots so I'll be watering these plants and keeping them moist almost every day.

Richard
08-27-2010, 10:06 PM
So far, Many of these seedlings have turned reddish ...


Try the diagnostic tools on this page: Cornell Fruit (http://www.fruit.cornell.edu/berrytool/index.html)

NANAMAN
08-28-2010, 05:21 PM
Actually the mineral sources are inorganic, the chemical fertilizers you speak of are made from them, and when an appropriate chemical fertilizer is applied properly then the mycorrhizae and other beneficial biology in the soil flourish.

Of course, if you take 15-30-15 and throw it at your plants in earnest, the phosphate will kill the soil biology in short order. In my view, the latter is an inappropriate fertilizer under many conditions and the delivery is also an irresponsible dosage. Using a chemical fertilizer that contains significant chlorine has the same results.

No Richard, mined mineral sources are absolutely " organic " as far as the term relates to organic fertilizer. Dolomite, Azomite, granite dust, green sand are just a few of the many choices a gardener can use. I never mentioned any previously.

So I guess you are responding to your own suggestion ( urea + soluble potash ? You are right about that, it's not organic.


Where do you get 15-30-15 from? In earnest huh? So in earnest would be an inappropriate amount?

You know the state of Ca. has recommendations of minimums , of many components, measured in ppm. that have proven to be fatal to soil fungi and micro-organisms. Phosphates are but one of about 10 that are commonly found! Most often in farms that have been fertilized chemically. It's never a problem in forests or pasture land, I wonder why? I would post a link to the chart if I could find it !

It seems as if you are still trying to say that using chem. fertilizers on soils that have mycorrhiza and other microbe populations is somehow not harmful to those populations. And you would be dead wrong! There are so many studies on this that it's irrefutable. Don't take my word for it! A Google search will give anyone interested in this subject, plenty of interesting data.

Richard, if you look back in this thread, my original post was about the efficiency of iron absorption with the use of mycorrhiza. Then I explained why I mentioned using organic fertilizer with mycorrhiza, I thought pretty effectively. So what is it with you? You seem to be very defensive as if talking about organic gardening practices somehow threatens you! No need to answer that one, that's just for you to think about. I really don't care !

The only reason I responded to your remarks in this thread is that most of it is wrong, and I would hate for someone here to get the wrong idea.

Richard
08-28-2010, 06:27 PM
It seems as if you are still trying to say that using chem. fertilizers on soils that have mycorrhiza and other microbe populations is somehow not harmful to those populations. And you would be dead wrong!


Nope. It depends entirely on the chemical fertilizers and dosages in question. Anything more than a 1/4 teaspoon of Potassium chloride would be bad news for the microbes. Langbeinite (K2SO4·2MgSO4) in a tablespoon dosage would not.

Plants feed on inorganic compounds. From the chemical analysis point of view, one pound of reasonably dry composted horse manure is roughly equivalent to 1.5 tablespoons of a 28-8-18 chemical formula that includes micronutrients. Use what is most cost effective for you.

Anyway, looking at the Cornell Fruit Tool, it appears that Steve's blueberry plants have a magnesium deficiency -- unless they have one of those awful viruses. The latter is usually avoided by maintaining proper levels of zinc and copper in the soil.

Worm_Farmer
08-29-2010, 09:13 AM
I dont mean to steal this thread, but I have been growing blueberrys failry close to my peach tree. I really do need to give them a Soil Acidifier fert because they did so well before when I had some. I am getting worried that if I feed the blue berrys this stuff it might mess with the peach tree now. How far will 1/2 of Soil Acidifier cover? I only want it in a small area and dont want the peach to have a neg effect.
Thanks

Richard
08-29-2010, 09:28 AM
I dont mean to steal this thread, but I have been growing blueberrys failry close to my peach tree. I really do need to give them a Soil Acidifier fert because they did so well before when I had some. I am getting worried that if I feed the blue berrys this stuff it might mess with the peach tree now. How far will 1/2 of Soil Acidifier cover? I only want it in a small area and dont want the peach to have a neg effect.
Thanks

Since you are in Florida, I'd guess you are growing southern highbush varieties of blueberries, like Sharps Blue? These blueberries and the peach tree would both appreciate a pH of 6.0. Get an inexpensive pH probe and check the soil before you apply.

conejov
09-01-2010, 05:55 PM
i planted these blue berries back in feb. and they have started going South. Dont know what might be the problem Im looking at the link Richard posted to see if I can find the answer.

Heres a pic::
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/llorona/DSC06316.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/llorona/DSC06317.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/llorona/DSC06319.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/llorona/DSC06318.jpg

ANy suggestions?

Greenie
09-03-2010, 02:48 PM
you should cut all that grass around the plant.its prone to fungus and other bad stuff if you don't.Blueberries thrive on good mulch and do not like wet feet.

Jack Daw
09-03-2010, 03:14 PM
Looks like it needs more acidic soil.

stevelau1911
09-03-2010, 11:21 PM
you should cut all that grass around the plant.its prone to fungus and other bad stuff if you don't.Blueberries thrive on good mulch and do not like wet feet.

That's how I've been trying to keep mine for now however they look like they're all done growing for the year since none of them are putting out any new shoots or leaves. I guess just like most deciduous trees, they put out a set amount of foliage for the year and then they stop growing.


I hope these guys can make it up past 2ft for next year's growth.
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz246/stevelau1911/DSC02919.jpg?t=1283573811

Richard
09-04-2010, 12:12 AM
Blueberries thrive on good mulch and do not like wet feet.

Amen.

That's how I've been trying to keep mine for now however they look like they're all done growing for the year since none of them are putting out any new shoots or leaves.

Looks like Magnesium deficiency. Magnesium is the central atom in chlorophyll and photosynthesis is impossible without it.

stevelau1911
09-04-2010, 09:02 AM
If its magnesium deficiency, I don't think it should be too much of a problem. Many of them turned reddish after getting transplanted into full sun, but lately they have been slowly turning green again so they must be getting used to their new spot.

sbl
09-05-2010, 09:06 AM
Blueberries do best at pH closer to 5. As has been said they do not like wet feet, but they do need a moist soil--Mulch is good--it helps keep soil moist and drains well. When bluberries are deficient in Magnesium, the new leaves appear reddish--apply epsom salt. Never fertilize blueberries with nitrate--it is toxic to them.

sunfish
09-05-2010, 10:49 AM
Planted these two years ago as 4" plants. Compost,mulch and 15-10-30
http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=36294&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=36294&ppuser=2868)

Richard
09-05-2010, 06:14 PM
Blueberries do best at pH closer to 5. As has been said they do not like wet feet, but they do need a moist soil--Mulch is good--it helps keep soil moist and drains well. When bluberries are deficient in Magnesium, the new leaves appear reddish--apply epsom salt. Never fertilize blueberries with nitrate--it is toxic to them.

Actually the pH of 5 is for the northern-eastern U.S., eastern Canada, and northern European blueberry (Vaccinium) species, but the southern Highbush and Rabbit Eye species prefer 5.8 to 6.0 -- at least according to studies by the U.C. Cooperative Extension in Davis and San Diego county.

stevelau1911
09-06-2010, 07:14 PM
Some of my blueberry plants are finally putting out new growth since I planted them a couple weeks ago so it looks like many of them will get a bit bigger in the next 1-2 months they have left to grow. I hope some of these new shoots approach the 1ft range by the end of this growing season.

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=36375&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=36375&ppuser=6098)

http://www.bananas.org/gallery/watermark.php?file=36376&size=1 (http://www.bananas.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=36376&ppuser=6098)

djmb74
09-07-2010, 06:06 AM
I grow all mine in pine bark to keep the PH right. You won't see much when it comes to berries until they are 2 years old or so in growth. Go to a garden center and purchase Azalea fertilizer that will help you with your PH as well....

stevelau1911
09-17-2010, 10:45 PM
I just planted 600 more seeds in 2 (72 cell) seed racks hoping I can get faster growth this time since I'll be able to put them in the greenhouse whenever it gets too cold and I'll be using rooting hormones to speed up their growth to hopefully have plants at least as big as the ones I planted earlier by some time in April.

I don't think these will grow as quickly as the existing ones since shrubs usually have a jump in growth after a dormancy period, but I still expect them to get up to over 4 inches tall in their respective cells. Blueberries are fun to grow.

BTW my tree peony seeds are finally germinating after 4 months in their paper towels.

Richard
09-17-2010, 11:47 PM
Have fun with your blueberry experiments. Ralph Sharpe and Paul Lyrene devoted significant portions of their lives developing low-chill varieties for subtropical and near-tropical agriculture. These must be propagated by cutting since blueberry cultivars do not come true from seed. Perhaps you can develop a new winner for the northeast.